new to the eg game
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new to the eg game
alright i found a 93 cx with 105k miles and only dropped for 2400. only bad part is no p/s or a/c.
is this car worth 2400 and whats inusurance like on these thing for an 18 year old?
or
is this car worth 2400 and whats inusurance like on these thing for an 18 year old?
or
#2
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Re: new to the eg game (teggy182)
A good price is what the buyer is welling to pay and the seller is willing to sell for. If you think 2400 is good then go for it. Insurance depends on the area in which you live.
#3
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Re: new to the eg game (Luserkid)
well its lowered with steelies and its a cx hatchback... how old is the seller... and what is done under the hood and i bet theres a fart can exhaust... 2400 sounds like a lot to me because i bet u its recieved a beating from whoever the driver was...
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Re: new to the eg game (Luserkid)
cost of insurnace has alot of factor played into it. like if you are going to be put onto a parent insurance policy, age of driver, any previous traffic tickets, full coverage or liability, where you are located. all of those things factor into how much you are going to pay. you just have to look aroung and ask for quotes. when you are asking for quotes also ask for the the agents fee because if you dont ask you will be surprised at signing of the insurance.
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Re: new to the eg game (eeleaj)
i have no tickets or anything and its sounds like u guys are saying 2400 is steep? this wont be a project car or anything its just a dd so i dont have to drive the dc2 in the winter
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Re: new to the eg game (teggy182)
i think its a pretty good price especially here in illinois. i got my car from california and drove it here in illinois, and spent 3k for it (SI hatch). as for insurance i pay $400 every 6 months.
#7
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Re: new to the eg game (B18bEG6ick)
i paid 2800 for my first hatch 94cx with 62,xxx miles no rust at all
i cant tell from this pic but is there any body damage, clean title
i guess 2400 is DECENT for the demand of these cars
i cant tell from this pic but is there any body damage, clean title
i guess 2400 is DECENT for the demand of these cars
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Re: new to the eg game (dthug)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dthug »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i paid 2800 for my first hatch 94cx with 62,xxx miles no rust at all
i cant tell from this pic but is there any body damage, clean title
i guess 2400 is DECENT for the demand of these cars</TD></TR></TABLE>
i'm pretty sure it has the regular honda rust spot if it was in illinois the whole time. i think i can see it.
i cant tell from this pic but is there any body damage, clean title
i guess 2400 is DECENT for the demand of these cars</TD></TR></TABLE>
i'm pretty sure it has the regular honda rust spot if it was in illinois the whole time. i think i can see it.
#10
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i'd say that is a fair price...the car looks like it has no dents or needs no body work...well from the picture...if the interior is pretty much mint and the motor/tranny are mint i'd say got for it...but try to get $100-200 off the asking price...
#11
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Re: (bmoua)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bmoua »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i'd say that is a fair price...the car looks like it has no dents or needs no body work...well from the picture...if the interior is pretty much mint and the motor/tranny are mint i'd say got for it...but try to get $100-200 off the asking price...</TD></TR></TABLE>
it needs body work. unless you dont count that rust spot on the rear fender
it needs body work. unless you dont count that rust spot on the rear fender
#12
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Re: (komat)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by komat »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
it needs body work. unless you dont count that rust spot on the rear fender</TD></TR></TABLE>
****...then i'd says $2g's...
it needs body work. unless you dont count that rust spot on the rear fender</TD></TR></TABLE>
****...then i'd says $2g's...
#13
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Re: (bmoua)
yeah i would knock off a few hundred also if your patient wait for a day that it really rains then when it stops pop the trunk to see if water gets inside i think thats pretty common on these old cars, if your buying from a private seller tell him you'll give him 1800, its a cx remember that
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I'd also find out how the car is lowered, if its decent quality stuff or not. I'd offer 2g's and see what you guys can work out if i were you.
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Re: new to the eg game (Luserkid)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Luserkid »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A good price is what the buyer is welling to pay and the seller is willing to sell for. If you think 2400 is good then go for it. Insurance depends on the area in which you live. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I'd buy the car, I'm actually buying a similar CX with significantly less miles for a little bit more money.
I'd buy the car, I'm actually buying a similar CX with significantly less miles for a little bit more money.
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Try to tal him down, it's always worth it, but I'd say that's a fair price for that car. Although somebody above said it best, who's selling it? Some 19 year old who beat on it for 3 years, or a soccer mom?
As for your insurance, that'll depend on an ASSLOAD of factors, somebody mentioned them all above I'll put his post in here:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eeleaj »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
cost of insurnace has alot of factor played into it. like if you are going to be put onto a parent insurance policy, age of driver, any previous traffic tickets, full coverage or liability, where you are located. all of those things factor into how much you are going to pay. you just have to look aroung and ask for quotes. when you are asking for quotes also ask for the the agents fee because if you dont ask you will be surprised at signing of the insurance. </TD></TR></TABLE>
All this, PLUS, like I have 1100 off my insurance because I do well in school (good student discount), plus if you get no tickets for X ammount of time you get a safe driver discount (I have one of them too). Lots of discounts and extra costs they add onto it based on just about everything from how common of a car that is stolen to your area to the theft rate in that area, it's much like baseball, there's a statistic for everything and all factors in. If this is your first insurance policy I'd say it's gonna run ya around 4-5k/yr - again that's by NY standards though, and NY has one of the highest insurance rates in the country (second...to what state I forgot...I think anyways) so yours will probably be less..maybe looking at 2-3k/yr which may not be so bad.
I'd say - go for it, try to haggle it a bit (always good), but even if he stays firm I'd take it. I want a hatch right now but am facing financial problems do to the rediculously high cost of tuition and expenses here at RIT.
Then again, if a 19 year old is selling it...be weary. All I can say pretty much.
Oh yeah, and they DEFINATELY will take into account that it's an econobox with a small engine (not that fast..although they are quick b/c they're light) which'll play a major roll in lowering your insurance. Good luck. As with anything else, you just have to hope and pray you aren't losing your money into a money pit.
As for your insurance, that'll depend on an ASSLOAD of factors, somebody mentioned them all above I'll put his post in here:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eeleaj »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
cost of insurnace has alot of factor played into it. like if you are going to be put onto a parent insurance policy, age of driver, any previous traffic tickets, full coverage or liability, where you are located. all of those things factor into how much you are going to pay. you just have to look aroung and ask for quotes. when you are asking for quotes also ask for the the agents fee because if you dont ask you will be surprised at signing of the insurance. </TD></TR></TABLE>
All this, PLUS, like I have 1100 off my insurance because I do well in school (good student discount), plus if you get no tickets for X ammount of time you get a safe driver discount (I have one of them too). Lots of discounts and extra costs they add onto it based on just about everything from how common of a car that is stolen to your area to the theft rate in that area, it's much like baseball, there's a statistic for everything and all factors in. If this is your first insurance policy I'd say it's gonna run ya around 4-5k/yr - again that's by NY standards though, and NY has one of the highest insurance rates in the country (second...to what state I forgot...I think anyways) so yours will probably be less..maybe looking at 2-3k/yr which may not be so bad.
I'd say - go for it, try to haggle it a bit (always good), but even if he stays firm I'd take it. I want a hatch right now but am facing financial problems do to the rediculously high cost of tuition and expenses here at RIT.
Then again, if a 19 year old is selling it...be weary. All I can say pretty much.
Oh yeah, and they DEFINATELY will take into account that it's an econobox with a small engine (not that fast..although they are quick b/c they're light) which'll play a major roll in lowering your insurance. Good luck. As with anything else, you just have to hope and pray you aren't losing your money into a money pit.
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Re: new to the eg game (teggy182)
Check the NADA value on that, or even blue book...I have a 94 CX and the NADA was something ridiculously low like $1300-1600...but as long as you're not going through a bank you won't have a problem...it looks like a good deal if you can talk him down just a tad...never hurts to try Once you wax that thing you'll love the milano red
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Re: new to the eg game (leeminho86)
looks like i gotta pass up this deal. im jsut gunna beat on the gsr and store it for the winter o well some one else buy this thing
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