Bond

I am picking up a D16Z6 with around 60 000km on it this weekend. I am going to be replacing all seals and doing general maintenance work on it while it's out of the car. I am going to start off by replacing all seals. The reason I want to replace all gaskets is because I don't want to worry about anything leaking for a long time. So now my questions:


1) Will the Si exhaust manifold bolt up the same way my D15B7 bolts up to my cat-back or are they shaped different?

2) Lastly, if I do take engine to a shop, should I get them to do a valve adjustment or should I do it myself? I do almost all my own engine work and have a trusty helms by my side at all times. It looks rather easy to do. Just takes awhile to do, but I read all the steps and seems straight forward.

3) The engine comes with the stock flywheel, but I already have one. The problem is that it's a 8lb. chromoly flywheel and I am worried about how it's going to run with a high reving vtec engine. Should I go with the stock one or use the 8lb. Will a lightweight flywheel have negative effects on vtec? I am kind of worried on how it will act when I put it on the D16Z6. Can someone help me out with this.


Thanks in advance to anyone and everyone that can help me out and give me some pointers .


Modified by Bond at 11:06 PM 7/15/2005

neutron91

i wouldnt replace it unless its blown... you may run into more trouble trying to fix something that isnt broken... just my $.02

Bond

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by neutron91 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i wouldnt replace it unless its blown... you may run into more trouble trying to fix something that isnt broken... just my $.02</TD></TR></TABLE>

You know, in the end your prolly right. I think I will just skip the HG replacement. But all the other gaskets are getting replaced as I hate oil leaks and want to avoid any in the future. So what about all my other question's?

*edited*

underb00steg6

iTrader: (2)

if you're running n/a then you wont have a problem with the 8lbs flywheel. i dont see any bad effect it would have on a vtec motor only if you plan to run turbo ....mass is better for turbo.....

Bond

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by underb00steg6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you're running n/a then you wont have a problem with the 8lbs flywheel. i dont see any bad effect it would have on a vtec motor only if you plan to run turbo ....mass is better for turbo..... </TD></TR></TABLE>

So I won't have any problems as far as vtec goes? I figured it would drop out of vtec when shifting do to fast increase and decrease in rev's. I think I might run with the stock flywheel and see how I like it. I can always change it if I want. Anybody else?

neutron91

pretty sure the exhaust manifold will bolt up the same... i would do the valve adjustmet myself... its very easy and should only take about 30 mins... a shop will prob charge you somewhere in the range of 200 bux so its totally not worth it if you can do it on your own... and as for the flywheel... if the motor is stock i would run the stock flywheel... thats just me

Bond

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by neutron91 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">pretty sure the exhaust manifold will bolt up the same... i would do the valve adjustmet myself... its very easy and should only take about 30 mins... a shop will prob charge you somewhere in the range of 200 bux so its totally not worth it if you can do it on your own... and as for the flywheel... if the motor is stock i would run the stock flywheel... thats just me</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, I just don't know how the engine will run with a lightweight flywheel. Since it revs faster, would it hit vtec faster? I don't think it would because you have to be moving to hit vtec. Also a light wieght flywheel has done nothing as far as making the engine faster. I think I will shelve it for the time being. It is a really nice flywheel though and rev matching is very easy.

Bond

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bond &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am picking up a D16Z6 with around 60 000km on it this weekend. I am going to be replacing all seals and doing general maintenance work on it while it's out of the car. I am going to start off by replacing all seals. The reason I want to replace all gaskets is because I don't want to worry about anything leaking for a long time. So now my questions:


1) Will the Si exhaust manifold bolt up the same way my D15B7 bolts up to my cat-back or are they shaped different?

2) Lastly, if I do take engine to a shop, should I get them to do a valve adjustment or should I do it myself? I do almost all my own engine work and have a trusty helms by my side at all times. It looks rather easy to do. Just takes awhile to do, but I read all the steps and seems straight forward.

3) The engine comes with the stock flywheel, but I already have one. The problem is that it's a 8lb. chromoly flywheel and I am worried about how it's going to run with a high reving vtec engine. Should I go with the stock one or use the 8lb. Will a lightweight flywheel have negative effects on vtec? I am kind of worried on how it will act when I put it on the D16Z6. Can someone help me out with this.


Thanks in advance to anyone and everyone that can help me out and give me some pointers .


Modified by Bond at 11:06 PM 7/15/2005</TD></TR></TABLE>

Bump before bed.

The_Todd

1st one I don't know about.

2nd one: If you have a helms and decent car and tool knowledge and the help of a helms manual you should be good to go. Might as well save yourself some money and learn some valuable experience while you're at it .

3rd one: With a stock motor a lighter flywheel will typically help. A lighter flywheel will make redline trips easier and more effective since you now basically have less powertrain loss. If you can shift worth a damn you shouldn't be dropping out of vtec at your top shifting point. The only downside to a lighter flywheel is the decrease in torque...but hey you have a honda, they don't have torque as is .

Bond

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .ken &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1st one I don't know about.

2nd one: If you have a helms and decent car and tool knowledge and the help of a helms manual you should be good to go. Might as well save yourself some money and learn some valuable experience while you're at it .

3rd one: With a stock motor a lighter flywheel will typically help. A lighter flywheel will make redline trips easier and more effective since you now basically have less powertrain loss. If you can shift worth a damn you shouldn't be dropping out of vtec at your top shifting point. The only downside to a lighter flywheel is the decrease in torque...but hey you have a honda, they don't have torque as is .</TD></TR></TABLE>

True enough. I never felt any lose in torque with my D15B7, so I don't think it will matter much. Yeah, I can shift fast enough, but if I was at the starting ov vtec (around 5500rpm) I would be able to stay in vtec. I usually drop about 1000-1500rpm between shifting. Yeah, the flywheel cost me about $300 U.S. so I kind of still want to use it.

I do all the work I can on my car and this "build" is going to increase my knowledge and I am so excited to start and learn more about the d series. Thanks for your help .

Ignitecivic

the exhaust manifold are the same length. they will botl up. just that the siis a 4-2-1 while the dx one is 4-1

u can do the valve adjustment at home. not that hard. just need to get the hang of it.

good luck

Bond

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ignitecivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the exhaust manifold are the same length. they will botl up. just that the siis a 4-2-1 while the dx one is 4-1

u can do the valve adjustment at home. not that hard. just need to get the hang of it.

good luck</TD></TR></TABLE>

Really? I never knew that. The 4-2-1 flows better (I think), so I can see why it's used. Thanks for the info.

Bond

Does anybody know oh a good engine cleaner? I want to clean it before I put it in. Is that "gunk" engine cleaner any good?

JDM-Civic-Hatch

CARB & CHOKE CLEANER WORKS WONDERS!.. valve adjustment is easy as pie. get a feeler gauge. check out the manual. and hopefully you know where to put the feeler guage.

Bond

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM-Civic-Hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">CARB & CHOKE CLEANER WORKS WONDERS!.. valve adjustment is easy as pie. get a feeler gauge. check out the manual. and hopefully you know where to put the feeler guage. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Lol...yeah I know where to put the feeler guage. I have read my helms and I full understand all the steps. I have been doing a lot of reading on the D16Z6 and Vtec in general. Thanks all for the help .

The_Todd

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bond &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Does anybody know oh a good engine cleaner? I want to clean it before I put it in. Is that "gunk" engine cleaner any good?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Simple green and your elbow grease along with a toothbrush and some mild abrasive scrubber; your engine will be gleaming .

Bond

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .ken &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Simple green and your elbow grease along with a toothbrush and some mild abrasive scrubber; your engine will be gleaming .</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, I was looking at the simple green stuff yesterday at the store. Looked like it should do the trick. I have used it before, but only on my hands and once on a valve cover. It did work, so I will scrub away with that stuff. I might even do a write up on different cleaners and what works best .

I have another question though. I understand that the D16Z6 has a 4-2-1 header. I have searched and read alot, but I never did read a definate answer as to where the O2 sensor is located and what part it's bolted into the header (the 2 or 1 section of the piping). I am picking up a header this week and was just wondering if the O2 wires need to reach out longer on the Si header. I was just hoping to reuse my Dx 4 wire O2 sensor, so If anyone can help it would be greatly appreciated.

integraXTC

I'm going through my swap right now. Have you not looked at the manifolds? I will be using my DX manny because the Z6 on bolts on different to the downpipe. So, if you change the downpipe to the one that matches the z6 header then your good. Once you look at the manifold w/0 the heatshiedl it's obvious where the o2 sensor goes.

doesn't the z6 run a 4wire too?

Bond

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by integraXTC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm going through my swap right now. Have you not looked at the manifolds? I will be using my DX manny because the Z6 on bolts on different to the downpipe. So, if you change the downpipe to the one that matches the z6 header then your good. Once you look at the manifold w/0 the heatshiedl it's obvious where the o2 sensor goes.

doesn't the z6 run a 4wire too?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well, I am going to be getting the complete header and down pipe. I don't have it yet and searching didn't help. You should get the right downpipe, so you can use the better flowing 4-2-1 header. Yeah the z6 runs a 4 wire, that's why I wanted to know if the Dx one will reach. Then I don't have to go and pick up a new one.

integraXTC

I probably should get the right dp, I saw one at the junkyard, but didn't have the tools to remove it from the header. Oh well, it probably wont kill it too bad, plus I'll eventually go turbo.

Bond

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by integraXTC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I probably should get the right dp, I saw one at the junkyard, but didn't have the tools to remove it from the header. Oh well, it probably wont kill it too bad, plus I'll eventually go turbo. </TD></TR></TABLE>

The guy I got the engine from gave me a custom made 4-2-1 header that is all one peice. Also, it is stainless steel and like I said is all one peice . If your going turbo, then using the dx would be cheaper and more worth it.

cranberry

from my year and a half of driving the z6 i wish i had a 8lbs flywheel...the motor revs really slow in my eyes as it is...i would use it if i were you since you have it....thats my two cents....

Bond

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cranberry &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">from my year and a half of driving the z6 i wish i had a 8lbs flywheel...the motor revs really slow in my eyes as it is...i would use it if i were you since you have it....thats my two cents....</TD></TR></TABLE>

O.K. I will take your word for it since I have only driven a D16Z6 once before. I have yet another question. Should I buy another oil pan? I ask this because the one currently on the engine has a bit of a buckle in it. Like it is curved up in the middle a little bit. No scrapes and dings, but it is curved up like I said in the middle. Is this normal or is it suppost to be flat?

Also, is it normal for an engine to have patches of soot on the cylinder head? Like it is almost perfectly clean on some spots (and I mean like it's never been ran before) and soot patches in others. It's not like a big build up or anything, but it's not all completely covered in soot. I thought normal soot build up would start in one spot and slowly get bigger till it covers the entire head. Can somebody help me confirm if this is normal or not? Oh, I checked the original spark plugs and they just had normal black soot on them.

Bond

^^^^Bump for a little help please .

Bond

Bump. I need some help. I will try and post pictures to help explain any questions I have. I will try and get them up tomorrow evening and then it will be easier to figure out what I am saying or trying to say.