Tad

Hi,
ok so I just checked on my brakes that have been really weak lately.

my master cylinder is low on fluid(it looks about 75/80% full)
and my pads have completely worn down that little marker groove(its gone).
the rotors have lots of grooves in them.

brake fade is horrendous. and feels like the rotors may be warped too.

what would you suggest I do?
just replace with stock parts?(what parts do you think I need).
or go bigger?
I am on a VERY tight budget, but I might consider some sort of custom cheap big break upgrade.. like maybe to some 11" rotors or something.

any ideas/prices would be very helpful.

thanks!

SkyeC

Cobalt GT-Sports or Axxis Ultimates, rotors w/ a lifetime warranty, ATE super blue.

distortedfuture

i don't know much, but what about some brembo's. if someone has information for him about brembo's, that might help in his decision more.

The Internet Tough Guy

i've got some brand new stock pads and rotors for sale if you're interested

SIRIUS

http://www.nopi.com

I ordered my setup last week Brembo crossdrilled rotors/ Axxis pads/ Goodridge lines. Good prices too.

93hatched_projekt

I recently did my brakes and I got power slot rotors , axxis metal pads, earls ss lines and it came out to $300 w/ shipping ....... until you can afford something better.

SkyeC

Great. My suggestion can be done for around $100 and you will get the same performance.

Tad

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SkyeC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Great. My suggestion can be done for around $100 and you will get the same performance.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i like the sound of 100bux..
but its just a stock replacement correct?

I think either i'm just going to take off my rotors myself, have them resurfaced,
and put on some new pads. bingo bango bongo done.

if the rotors are warped, i'd need new ones though huh?

i'm thinking if I have to replace the rotors. then definetely, why not go bigger??
so what cheap big brake upgrades are available?
i'm talkin real cheap, 300 would def be the top of my budget,
200 would sound more right.

I dont mind some used parts.

Tad

ttt

EXspeedyaDOTCOM

Tad, the reason for resurfacing your rotors are because they are warped. Unless they are warped beyond reality, which I doubt, then you will not need to replace your rotors. If you fluid level is going down, then you have a leak somewhere, find it and fix it or make sure you refill it to the top everytime you drive.
Buy some new brake pads, resurface your rotors if they are warped, and make sure you fluid level is full. And you'll be fine...this shouldnt cost more then $100

Tad

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EXspeedyaDOTCOM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Tad, the reason for resurfacing your rotors are because they are warped. Unless they are warped beyond reality, which I doubt, then you will not need to replace your rotors. If you fluid level is going down, then you have a leak somewhere, find it and fix it or make sure you refill it to the top everytime you drive.
Buy some new brake pads, resurface your rotors if they are warped, and make sure you fluid level is full. And you'll be fine...this shouldnt cost more then $100</TD></TR></TABLE>

roger,
I think thats what i'll do

p.s. how dificult would you say the rotor removal is?
i've done suspension installs a buncha times.. but never got around to rotors,
have a full manual too.
just wondering if theres any wierdness that needs to be done,
i've heard something about "safety wire" on the threads or something?
just checking.

thanks.

ace1875

the front rotors have two bitchy *** screws on them when they are out you are good to go!!!!

I personally like AEM pads as they are made by Nissim and are better then stock.

if you want cross drilled rotors check eBay i just bought some Brembo for $50 shipped.

JMod

Are brake lines necessary to replace with like the Stainless ones? I mean, is it worth the $100 bucks or so?

ace1875

Stainless steel lines give you a better feel of the brakes, .they don't expand like the rubber lines do. so IMO they are well worth it.

B18C5-EH2

I'm guessing you have a DX, right?

How much money are you trying to spend?

Here's my suggestion if you can afford it:

1994-2001 Integra non-ITR front spindles complete with the knuckle, rorotrs, calipers, caliper hangers, and lines - usually under $150.00

If you're lucky you'll get a newer set with low miles and good pads

1991 Civic EX master cylinder. Can be found at auto parts stores pretty cheap, or at Honda for like $140.00 wholesale price. The 1991 EX 4-door m/c bolts right in with no flaring of lines, etc. Just be sure you have a competent parts guy looking it up because it has to be only 1991 4-door EX Civic.

I added the m/c because it sounds like your might be leaking, and the bigger 15/16ths (stock is only 13/16ths - it's smaller) will make a HUGE difference in pedal feel.

This will be THE biggest improvement over stock IMO. Add any sort of high performance pad later on and really kick some ***.

And for anyone about to chime in with "get rear discs" I'd say rear discs suck without bigger front brakes.

B18C5-EH2

BTW:

As far as removing rotors, etc. goes it's very easy.

Go to Auto Zone and buy a Great Neck impact driver for $12.00. It's a tool that has a screwdriver head on one end and a solid handle on the other for hitting with a hammer. It turns as you hit it with a hammer so it won't strip your rotor screws.

If you do my suggestion though you probabkly womn't even have to remove the rotors. Simply unbolt the upper balljoint, steering knuckle at the outer tierod end (make sure you try and keep the tie rod end where it's at so as not to ruin your current alignment), and at the lower balljount and swap spindles and lines.

Bleed the brakes and check to see of the alignment is off. If it is then you've incurred an extra $59.00 or so, but hell you needed an alignment anyways, right?

Mike_C

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SkyeC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Cobalt GT-Sports or Axxis Ultimates, rotors w/ a lifetime warranty, ATE super blue.</TD></TR></TABLE>

to someone with a clue.

JDMlyfestyle

Powerstop slotted and dimpled with some hawk pads.

B18C5-EH2

BTW:

ATE Super Blue rocks. That's what I'm running in my "fast" hatchback.

Mike_C

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
ATE Super Blue rocks. That's what I'm running in my "fast" hatchback.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Doesn't it smell so damn good too?

B18C5-EH2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMlifestyle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Powerstop slotted and dimpled with some hawk pads. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Honestly I don't think slotted/dimpled rotors make much difference, if any, and they are way more expensive than good old Brembo blanks.

I got my full set of new Powerslot Brembo slotteds for very cheap (place was going out of business) but usually the fronts are $75.00 a piece wholesale price. Brembo blanks are only like $11.00 per front!!!

IMO if you plan on doing really hard driving I'd rather warp $11.00 rotors than $75.00 ones.

Tad

ah ok.
interesting.

hmm, are those integra front brakes you mentioned bigger at all? If I'm going to swap out the entire spindle i'd probly want a larger disc.

thanks for all the good info though everyone,
definetley saving this post.

B18C5-EH2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ah ok.
interesting.

hmm, are those integra front brakes you mentioned bigger at all? If I'm going to swap out the entire spindle i'd probly want a larger disc.

thanks for all the good info though everyone,
definetley saving this post.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The stock Dx brakes are like 9.2 or something like that.

The Integras are 10.4 inches and the calipers are much larger too.

SkyeC

Where are you finding Brembo blanks for $11?

JDM-97CX

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EXspeedyaDOTCOM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Tad, the reason for resurfacing your rotors are because they are warped. Unless they are warped beyond reality, which I doubt, then you will not need to replace your rotors. If you fluid level is going down, then you have a leak somewhere, find it and fix it or make sure you refill it to the top everytime you drive.
Buy some new brake pads, resurface your rotors if they are warped, and make sure you fluid level is full. And you'll be fine...this shouldnt cost more then $100</TD></TR></TABLE>

Actually the main reason for turning the rotars is because of grooves, yes it can fix warped rotars as well but in most cases a warped rotar is just replaced because if it is machined it will go beyond factory specifications.
Just because the fluid is low does not mean there is a leak. If it has been a while since his last brake service some of the fluid has more than likely evaporated.
My suggestion would be to bring your rotars to a machine shop and see if they will be passed specifications if they are machined. If they are i would recomend not getting rotars from the dealership, they will charge you double for pretty much the same thing you can get thru NAPA or Auto Zone.

As far as the rotar removal, the two screws in the rotar are easily romoved with an impact driver. For those that don't know an impact driver is not an air tool. It is a screwdriver that turn when you hit the back with a hammer, it works great for those tough screws that won't come out that you don't want to strip.