xonn

Is the B18C5 worth it? It makes 20hp more and 9ft lb more than the GSR motor, but is there more to it than that? Will it respond to cams, and intake and exhaust better than the GSR motor?

EJgsr

if your just going to get cams and manifolds i would get the gsr.

Dac

It definately isnt worth the extra money IMO.

xonn

So at what point does it become worth it? Don't you get a helical LSD with the setup as well assuming you get the tranny as well?

SkoundrelUSA

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xonn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So at what point does it become worth it? Don't you get a helical LSD with the setup as well assuming you get the tranny as well?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah thats basically the biggest part I'd say.

I think I'd rather start with a GSR and build it before I forked out the cash for an ITR (unless there was a sick deal of course)

EJgsr

stock honda LSD's suck.

doood

iTrader: (1)

if you plan to swap an engine in and only do bolt on's, go with a the b18c5. but if you plan to replace internals, then get the b18c1.

xonn

That's just it.. I don't plan on building the engine. I'm not going to do internals. I'm thinking cams intake and decent exhaust and call it a day. It shoul d be plenty fast with just that done to it

bmoua

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sticky icky &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you plan to swap an engine in and only do bolt on's, go with a the b18c5. but if you plan to replace internals, then get the b18c1.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yep...my buddys EK hatch with a jdm ITR motor with just exhuast and intake is pretty quick...

xonn

Would the JDM ITR motor with cams, intake and exhaust make for a 13 second car? That's what I'm after. An NA car that runs mid 13s on street tires.

B18C5-EH2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Who? &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It definately isnt worth the extra money IMO. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Oh snap here I come with first-hand knowledge of this topic, complete with dyno numbers, costs, etc. etc. so fuuck all the speculation y0!



Okay first of all FUUCK A GS-R SWAP IF YOU DO NOT PLAN TO BUILD THE ENGINE - PERIOD!!!

Why?

Well seeing as how I've owned a B16A2, B18C1, and currently own a B18C5 that were all in the exact same chassis I'd say I've got something most people replying here don't have, and that's first-hand experience with driving these swaps every day in the same exact chassis.

I owned a 1992 Si hatch that weighed 2290lbs.

I had a B18C1 with i/h/e cam gears, and that was about it. It dyno'd 150whp/122ft-lbs. of torque and ran 14.6 in the 1/4 mile on street tires.

I ditched the B18C1, bought a B18C5 swap, and dyno'd 175whp/123ft-lbs. of torque with oinly intake, exhaust, and Kenji-chipped P28 ECU. That ****** ran 13.9@100.97mph in the exact same fuucking hatch on street tires at the same dragstrip.

Okay so now for all you scholars out there talking **** "it isn't worth the extra cash" bullshit tell me how you're going to make up +25whp, almost a full second in the 1/4 mile, an LSD tranny with shorter gearing, and be 100% OE reliable with your GS-R swap and only about $1,300.00 to play with? Don't say nitrous.

Cams? $600-$800.00
Manifold? $250.00
Tuning and rechipped P28? Roughly $150.00-$250.00 perhaps?
Transmission with LSD? $300-$600.00 difference is your sold GS-R tranny and purchased LSD B16/B18C5 tranny

Etc. etc.

I figure ITR swaps go for roughly $4,500.00 while the GS-R commands $3,200.00 or so, so again tell me how to make that difference up with just $1,300.00? Don't say nitrous.

My old heavy bitch full interior Si hatch ran 13.9 on full 32psi street Pirelli P700Z tires!

My current set-up is good for high 12's 13.0 because it's now in a lighter CX chassis and it ran 13.3@104mph with ****-*** 2.0/2.1 60 footers on worn-*** 14'' M/T slicks BEFORE it was tuned. Tuning with Uberdata yielded +20whp and torque to the wheels in the midrange because I was running lean due to a bad fuel pressure regulator when I was trapping 104mph!!! before.

Dude you're in ATL - hit me up and I'll gladly take you for a ride in my bone stock USDM B18C5 swapped Cx hatch that I've beaten on for FIVE FUUCKING YEARS NOW WITH ZERO ENGINE PROBLEMS EVER and tell me you'd still rather have a GS-R swap and $1,300.00 to try and make up the difference.

I've owned them both - it's a night and day difference.

Now I'm not ripping GS-R swaps or their owners - just stating facts here because everyone seems to think they they can just grab up a B18C1, slap cams in it and a Skunk2 manifold and beat B18C5 swaps but that's fairy tales boys and girls, fairy tales!!!

GS-R swaps are awesome to use as a base to boost or build N/A, but if you don't plan on building and want 100% bolt-in, plug-in, OE reliable power the B18C5 is hands-down King **** of Fuuck Mountain.

Steven.

4500 and 175 whp or 3200 + 1000 for turbo... BAM who got more hp then?

FalkenSiR

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Steven Poljak &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">4500 and 175 whp or 3200 + 1000 for turbo... BAM who got more hp then?</TD></TR></TABLE>

wtf?
Make sure you use units with your numbers next time.