MY TIMING BELT RIPPED!!!!!!!!
05-07-2006, 11:04 PM
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MY TIMING BELT RIPPED!!!!!!!!
well its was a long day for me...just finished pushing my car off a flat bed a minute ago....as the titel says my timing belt ripped...i believe i bent some valves...my question is what can i do with $300? i got the water pump, timing belt, and tensioner already and i know i need new valves and maybe a new valve guide but what else should i buy since the head is removed from the block...i have a b16a and i just want to know what is your opinion if your were in my shoes!
Modified by akitomoto at 5:07 AM 5/8/2006
Modified by akitomoto at 5:07 AM 5/8/2006
05-07-2006, 11:09 PM
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Re: MY TIMING BELT RIPPED!!!!!!!! (akitomoto)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by akitomoto »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well its was a long day for me...just finished pushing my car off a flat bed a minute ago....as the titel says my timing melt ripped...i believe i bent some valves...my question is what can i do with $300? i got the water pump, timing belt, and tensioner already and i know i need new valves and maybe a new valve guide but what else should i buy since the head is removed from the block...i have a b16a and i just want to know what is your opinion if your were in my shoes! </TD></TR></TABLE>
k20a2
k20a2
05-07-2006, 11:14 PM
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Re: MY TIMING BELT RIPPED!!!!!!!! (professor poon)
... you cant get a k20a for $300 unless you stealing it
you probably need new pistons too
got to pull the head and c heck whats all damaged
you probably need new pistons too
got to pull the head and c heck whats all damaged
05-08-2006, 03:35 AM
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Re: (Syndacate)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why did it melt? When was the last time u changed it? If it wasn't 90k+ ago, u might want to find out why it melted...</TD></TR></TABLE>
i think he ment "belt"
i think he ment "belt"
05-08-2006, 04:09 AM
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lol you know one of my buddy said the same thing get a k20! lol man im so broke right now still have to pay off my turbo kit...i corrected my grammer its belt not melt...lol
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05-08-2006, 07:26 AM
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Re: (schardbody)
maybe if your very very lucky, you might have not messed anything up. hey, it has happen before, you never know just open and check it out.
05-08-2006, 01:49 PM
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Re: (akitomoto)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by akitomoto »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i corrected my grammer</TD></TR></TABLE>
LMAO
LMAO
05-08-2006, 02:59 PM
#11
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first do a leakdown test...if you bent valves then it won't hold compression. If it holds compression just put a new t-belt and water pump on.....also go ahead and replace the cam seals and crank seal.
if it doesn't hold compression buy new valves, valve guides, and valve seals.....take it to a machine shop and have them put it all together.
When the head is off you will be able to tell whether or not you messed up the pistons.
if it doesn't hold compression buy new valves, valve guides, and valve seals.....take it to a machine shop and have them put it all together.
When the head is off you will be able to tell whether or not you messed up the pistons.
05-10-2006, 03:21 PM
#14
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they still could be slightly bent.
If you don't have access to a leak down tester then just put a new timing belt on there and time everything right and try to run it.
****make sure the pistons are half-way down/up, then you can turn the cams all you want. ( to get them to tdc)
If you don't have access to a leak down tester then just put a new timing belt on there and time everything right and try to run it.
****make sure the pistons are half-way down/up, then you can turn the cams all you want. ( to get them to tdc)
05-10-2006, 09:41 PM
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Re: (igo4bmx)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by igo4bmx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">check the pistons... hopefully they didn't scar them up too bad 
</TD></TR></TABLE>
usually the pistons win in a piston vs valves fight. I would be a little more concerned about my valves...
</TD></TR></TABLE>usually the pistons win in a piston vs valves fight. I would be a little more concerned about my valves...
05-11-2006, 02:20 AM
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Re: (JeffBro)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JeffBro »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
usually the pistons win in a piston vs valves fight. I would be a little more concerned about my valves...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, it appears you twisted the valves....and from all the other crap, looks like u'll need to rebuild the head (and replace a lot of parts.. I might add)...
usually the pistons win in a piston vs valves fight. I would be a little more concerned about my valves...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, it appears you twisted the valves....and from all the other crap, looks like u'll need to rebuild the head (and replace a lot of parts.. I might add)...
05-11-2006, 01:34 PM
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well i have 2 options either rebuild the whole head how i want it (about $600-800) or swap a b18b or b20b engine (about $700) right now on the car its a boosted b16a and i was just wondering if i should stay with the b16a or go for a bigger engine with no vtec what you guys think?
05-11-2006, 01:48 PM
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Re: (akitomoto)
right now it doesent matter if it is vtec or not.. u need a motor in ur car to drive it..
if u r fine with not haveing a car, then save up for a motor..... but i would get the cheapest b series i could get....
if u r fine with not haveing a car, then save up for a motor..... but i would get the cheapest b series i could get....
05-11-2006, 10:30 PM
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fix the timing, do a compression test.
if the head is bad, have the bent valves replaced at a head shop ($120 labor + valves) might as well rebuild the entire head with new stem seals (about $300 bucks a most shops)
replace head gasket and head bolts, better yet switch to ARP studs.
DO NOT REUSE THE STOCK BOLTS EVAR!!!11!1!one!
if the head is bad, have the bent valves replaced at a head shop ($120 labor + valves) might as well rebuild the entire head with new stem seals (about $300 bucks a most shops)
replace head gasket and head bolts, better yet switch to ARP studs.
DO NOT REUSE THE STOCK BOLTS EVAR!!!11!1!one!
05-12-2006, 01:03 AM
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Re: (akitomoto)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by akitomoto »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well i have 2 options either rebuild the whole head how i want it (about $600-800) or swap a b18b or b20b engine (about $700) right now on the car its a boosted b16a and i was just wondering if i should stay with the b16a or go for a bigger engine with no vtec what you guys think?</TD></TR></TABLE>
B20z2 IDEAL, second to that, B20B, i would prolly swap your intake manifold, throttle body etc onto it. Later, make it a B20 VTEC, in the end, you will be smoking your old motor.
B20z2 IDEAL, second to that, B20B, i would prolly swap your intake manifold, throttle body etc onto it. Later, make it a B20 VTEC, in the end, you will be smoking your old motor.