chrisellis211

I'm a little bit behind so i will get all my updates up tonight and carry on updating over the upcoming weeks

Wednesday was day one and i'm happy with the progress so far, i managed to loosen all the head bolts with ease and remove the old spark plugs with help from a friend while he held the block like mad! (THANKS STEVE!! )

Once the head was removed i have found the block to have been in very good condition, we removed the cambelt which was like new so i'm thinkin the engine has done around 60,000 miles as lookin at the condition it certainly not just had it's second...

The was very little glazing to the piston walls either but tommrrows plan is to strip the bottom end and check the bearings, i also have some new piston rings going in as well so i will need to ruffen the piston walls to help prevent oil seepage.

Here's the pictures fromt today anyway, i will update these as i go along so please keep checking back..

Sleepy_Red_hatch

wow. simple green is your friend.

chrisellis211

As you can see the inlet is filthy so it's going to be chemically dipped over the weekend to clean it up













How my grans garage finished the day...



And one for luck!



Chris

chrisellis211

Well today wasn't to sucsseful to be honest as i didn't manage to remove the crankshaft pulley with it being so tight, tomrrow is going to be a long day as i have got to have it all seperataed so it can go off to be chemically dipped and clean up, once the piston rings have arrived and the glazing has been removed i will then start the hard bit, putting it back together....

....Correctly!!! lol

Here's today slow progress anyway



First i removed any remaining oil that was left in the block













Chris

chrisellis211

Well today finally i managed to remove the crankshaft bolt and assembly after some persuasion with a lot of heat and a hammer drill, it still took a lot of effort though as locktight was covered all over the bolt once it was removed.



From what we had seen so far the engine is relatively low milage but today was the day to find out, we first did this by checking the end float on the crankshaft using a dial gauge indicator, this reads in thousandths



I could now also remove all the casing now that the crankshaft pulley was removed along with the old cambelt





Next was to find out how worn the main bearings were, to do this I used something called Plastigauge, you basically place a bit on the crank and then torque the casing back over with all the shells in, you can then see how much it has spread once you have then removed the casing again. You can then match your reading upto the manufactures reccomendations





The service limits on these was a pass so replacement was not needed unlike the conrod shells! This will be ordered on Monday and hopefully fitted mid next week





The piston walls however looked like they had never been used however as per usual with any rebuild piston rings will all be replaced

chrisellis211

Removal of the crank was next









Next i checked the service limits on the Oil pump, needless to say it was barely even worn in!! :D





That's in now till tuesday, day off tomrrow then start ordering some parts, flywheel has gone off as well to be lightened so that hopefully will be back end of next week sometime..

Does anyone know the best adjustabel timing gear to use at all by the way from past experience?? I have been told about AEM but i have also heard there are problems with the markings on the timing gear not being correct, is this right??

Thanks for reading

Chris

mike93boost

holy crap, why are you going through all that trouble if the engine ran fine?

GreenEHDriver

yea unless it sat for a year or two out of a car which it looks like it did.

chrisellis211

The main reason is i want to learn and build up my technical knowledge of how an engine and the VTEC system works, i'm also going to be using the rebuild as part of my IVA for my college and university degree. What better way is there to learn about an engine than taking it apart.

So far i'm really enjoying and feel like i'm getting alot out of it as i go along, however i know i will have difficulties along so i'm hoping that some of you will be able to help when it comes to using adjustable timing gear as this is something i have never dealt with before.

Thanks in advance and speak to you all soon hopefully

Chris

prjctwhteg

great write man keep it up keep us posted

EK79

sounds like you have full controol of what your doing dont let anyone tell you differ

.Radical_Edward.

Nice Tear down. The pics really show alot.

chrisellis211

Hi guys,

First time of needing some help in this project so hoping someone can help me.

I need to purchase some conrod bearings but i'm having trouble finding anyone other than Honda that sells them. I have however found a full engine Set for a D16z6, does anyone know if these are identical to the D15b2??

Thanks in Advance

Chris Ellis

thacivicguy

wow.. good work .. hope things work out

KingKhong

looks like good work, wish i had the time/money/spare motor to build up, good luck!

and oh, maybe yuo should invest in an engine stand :0)

chrisellis211

Ye tell me about it, engine stand is much needed!!!

i have now located my conrod bearings in the UK for £33 so i'm well chuffed, anyone know what larger throttle bodies fit?? i have heard that Prelude ones are a good option at 60mm but don't know what engine it's off? Anyone know anything about this at all??

Chris

Chrisfrom1986

iTrader: (1)

Good work on the disassembly...

Connecting rod bearings for a D16Z6 are for that engine. USe the correct ones for your block.

Tell me what the point is of having an adjustable cam gear when you only have 1 cam?? The logic escapes me... You dont need it.

Keep in mind, you are still running a non-vtec bottom end. Dont be revving it to 8k... vtec bottom ends are balanced, non-vtec are not.

Good luck with the reassembly.

philosofy1

NICE WORK!

chrisellis211

Well from i gather i need to get the timing gear as the D15 block is 3.5 mm shorter than the d16 block, this basically means when using a 104 tooth belt you timing is 7degrees out, using a 103 tooth belt is to strentuos though on the pre belt tensioner and it wines. This is what i have read on D-series.org anyway, if anyone can correct me an point me in the right direction that would be great

Chris

blueBB4lude

i would get the bearings from honda, im not 100% framiliar with D-series motors, but with prelude F-serises and H-series motors, the bearings all follow a color code system that can be obtained from the serive manuals. If D-series are the same way then i would def go with honda for the bearings.

And i def agree with you when it comes to the tear down, i tore down my f22 and did rings and bearings on it. It taught me A LOT. Nice write up

JunY

Subscribed.

chrisellis211

Yes, with the bearings they are all still colour coded.

I managed to get them through a friend who runs a touring car team in the UK using the K20 and he highly recommended to deal with the company. And with Honda wanting £166 for the conrod bearings and being able to purchase them on trade for £33 from the other place i felt the money i saved could be spent better else where like having the pistons blasted to stregthen them.

Unfortuantly this week is the waiting week however as got to wait for all my parts to come now and gaskets.

Will keep you all updated though..

By the way has anyone more info on if i'm going to need to use adjustable timing gear??

Thanks in advance

Chris

tdac69

stand up UK!

chrisellis211

Well now all my bits are starting to arrive again progress will be taking of again soon, my plan is now that i have some holiday booked this month is to do the complete build up over 2 days on the 19th and 20th of august but not put it in the car to the following month, my list of parts i now and have and required are as follows -

(parts i now have)-

D16z6 head inc vtec solenoid
D16z6 Distributor
P28 ECU and cut interior loom
Sump Gasket
Piston Rings
Oil filter

Parts to be delivered -

Main Bearings - £49.33
Conrod Bearing - £33.01
Gasket Head set for D16y8 (uses thinner metal gasket) - £60
Thermostat (for peace of mind) - £9.21
Engine loom and interior loom with OBD1 plugs which i will have by next weekend
4 wire Lamda senor - £35
Cambelt for d16z6 (104 tooth) - £29.88
Water pump - £21.03

It looks a big list but all parts are now located and just got to wait for payday on friday then i will move forward, sorry for the lack of photo's etc just i have been doing loads of overtime to pay for all the extra bits i keep wanting, i figure doing the waterpump etc is just common sense and for peace of mind it is sorted then.



Cleaned up the face of the block now so will be a good seal between the head i hope!



Removal of the first piston ring, pistons are in as new condition once clean up





All clean at last!!



New(er) throttle body with all the sensors now intact and all clean inside



All the cam gear removed, last picture i have though as was dark, will update on Sataday with more pictures

Chris

chrisellis211

Well sorry for the long delay, my biggest delay however has been money as always and i've also had my MOT and road tax is coming next month so i've had to go easy on rebuilding the engine...

...anyway here are some updates

First thing i did saturday was clean the oil pump in the wash tank and to be honest inside it looked like new



ACL bearings were used throughout the engine and interestinly enough it's what Honda use as standard, the markings were identical to those of the ones that came out





Once the new bearings were fitted in the main caps i used plastigauage just so i had a reading of what they were before and after replacement



Once this was noted i then fitted the main cap finally and set the bolts to the correct torque



Piston rings were fitted next so i have tried to take a one handed picture lol



Bottom of the conrods with new bearings



All the pistons after around half an hour were completed and fitted to the engine and crankshaft



I also fitted a new waterpump at a cost of £21.01 from Halfrauds



Finally i got the engine on an engine stand after the Jaguar D-type engine had been sitting on there all of sataday.



Throttle body in the process of being cleaned out



Many people have asked me why haven't had the engine cleaned up in an acid tank, the main reason is the cist, to have all my engine done it would have cost somewhere around £120, this money i feel could have been spent better elsewhere as bearing in mind my gasket set was £162!! This is one of the main put off's when building an engine for most people.

Despite this i have been learning so much and intend to continue to do so, the engine swap will be happening in October half term so please keep checking back for updates as i will be making them more regualar now as time gets closer..

Thankyou for reading and have a good day all

Chris