My hatch build, single cam slam, body and motor! (56k be warned)
06-29-2008, 05:03 PM
#1
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My hatch build, single cam slam, body and motor! (56k be warned)
Ok, this is my build of my 92' dx. Bought it with a broke timing belt on the b7 for $500. Then i swapped in a junk yard z6 for $200 with 200k miles on it. Burnt oil when it vtec bad (bad rings lol), but i ran it for a few months that way until i tore it apart for my vitara build using the 75.5mm vitaras and eagle rods. I used ring gaps that would let me go to 350hp fairly easily, since this is my dd i was worried anything bigger would not be as reliable.
out with b7 to make room for the z6 (since this is a 92' it was pre-wired from the factory for vtec, so i didnt get to have the fun wiring that)
The block after being bored, its not exactly .020 over but i requested that i have a p2w clearance of .003 so its close to it.
Heres a comparison of the stock to the vitara/eagle combo, they're a lot stonger (also, i used hastings rings)
The eagles come with rod caps tightened down good, so you'll have to use a rubber mallet or something to get them off.
After i had set the acl's (race bearings) in and lubed with royal purple so i could set the crank in and start to assemble to turn the assembly so i could notch the girdle
The crank set in
I went ahead and put a new rear main seal in for insurance so i dont have to worry about it later
Oil pump, i used honda-bond on everything and i had a good bit left (its 12.50 a tube at my local dealership)
Measuring for ring gaps, i cant remember what gap exactly i used. But i had a really neat formula that after i used it, came to the numbers that i had planned on using from research.
Grinding the rings to size, i got this filer off ebay for around $20-$30 i think and works great. Just go a few turns at a time though, because you cant put material back on
Prepping the rods for install, the royal purple was like $12 off ebay (where i get everything). It was cheap because a guy was selling out unfortunately.
Putting the rods/pistons in, notice the dish.
Using the arp assem. lube, the bolts came with there torque guide and it goes by bolt size. I believe mine went to 40 ft. Ilbs. but i cant say for sure.
Putting the girdle on, and rotating the crank to see how much need to be taken off and where. (i had the block notched by the shop, but i forgot about the girdle so i had to do that one by myself)
Notching the girdle, i used a die grinder and some carbide bits. They seemed to work fine, you just have to keep the bits clean.
All back together now
After i put the ACT 6-puck on with heavy duty pressure plate and new through-out and pilot bearings
Fo life
Rough fmic fitment
Motor dropped in and fmic not fully fitted yet
Motor shot, sorry for the bluryness
JDM yo!
Now for the body, my dx has 237k miles on it, so i had the typical cancer spot on the rear quarters, and a 5" dent behind the pass. side door. Looked like someone through a bowling ball into it.
Looks decent, but not great especially on the other side which i never took pics off sorry. I ended up replacing the quarter on the other side with a ebay quarter and using a miller millermatic mig (miller rocks).
Cut out small rust on that side with a cut off wheel then bondo'd over it
I found one (only one ever taken) of the pass. side lol. We was going to use a stinger (stud gun) but i kept blowing holes through it, so i opted to just get a new quarter which was a better decision anyways.
Found some pics on my cell phone (razr 2 takes great pics, if anyones looking for a good camera phone) I hammer the weld seems in and bondo'd over them, however that side was so damaged that it still wasnt completely flush so it took more than i wanted, oh well.
Painting it, i used a 01' (i think) rsx magnesium metallic. It was u-tec, i wanted to use dupont croma base , but u-tec had a special and i got the clear, 1 gallon of base, and activator for like $220. The nsx silverstone alone from dupont was $260 for 1 gallon alone.
Ordered my wheels, rota track r's gold. $480, ebay.
and here it is
The side that was damaged pretty bad
So thats my project, i'm still doing stuff as we speak. All together i have around $4500 in it, but i also did everything myself. Dont think you cant do any of this, i was 17 yrs old when i did (that was 4 months ago, im 18 now) and i did the body work at school in shop so i saved a lot of money, and i used honda-tech and other places . Its only running 8psi for now on a .57 trim t3/t4 on a kit i pieced together. Will be tuning for 15-20psi soon. Enjoy, feel free to comment.
Modified by z6hatchboy at 9:12 PM 6/29/2008
out with b7 to make room for the z6 (since this is a 92' it was pre-wired from the factory for vtec, so i didnt get to have the fun wiring that)
The block after being bored, its not exactly .020 over but i requested that i have a p2w clearance of .003 so its close to it.
Heres a comparison of the stock to the vitara/eagle combo, they're a lot stonger (also, i used hastings rings)
The eagles come with rod caps tightened down good, so you'll have to use a rubber mallet or something to get them off.
After i had set the acl's (race bearings) in and lubed with royal purple so i could set the crank in and start to assemble to turn the assembly so i could notch the girdle
The crank set in
I went ahead and put a new rear main seal in for insurance so i dont have to worry about it later
Oil pump, i used honda-bond on everything and i had a good bit left (its 12.50 a tube at my local dealership)
Measuring for ring gaps, i cant remember what gap exactly i used. But i had a really neat formula that after i used it, came to the numbers that i had planned on using from research.
Grinding the rings to size, i got this filer off ebay for around $20-$30 i think and works great. Just go a few turns at a time though, because you cant put material back on
Prepping the rods for install, the royal purple was like $12 off ebay (where i get everything). It was cheap because a guy was selling out unfortunately.
Putting the rods/pistons in, notice the dish.
Using the arp assem. lube, the bolts came with there torque guide and it goes by bolt size. I believe mine went to 40 ft. Ilbs. but i cant say for sure.
Putting the girdle on, and rotating the crank to see how much need to be taken off and where. (i had the block notched by the shop, but i forgot about the girdle so i had to do that one by myself)
Notching the girdle, i used a die grinder and some carbide bits. They seemed to work fine, you just have to keep the bits clean.
All back together now
After i put the ACT 6-puck on with heavy duty pressure plate and new through-out and pilot bearings
Fo life
Rough fmic fitment
Motor dropped in and fmic not fully fitted yet
Motor shot, sorry for the bluryness
JDM yo!
Now for the body, my dx has 237k miles on it, so i had the typical cancer spot on the rear quarters, and a 5" dent behind the pass. side door. Looked like someone through a bowling ball into it.
Looks decent, but not great especially on the other side which i never took pics off sorry. I ended up replacing the quarter on the other side with a ebay quarter and using a miller millermatic mig (miller rocks).
Cut out small rust on that side with a cut off wheel then bondo'd over it
I found one (only one ever taken) of the pass. side lol. We was going to use a stinger (stud gun) but i kept blowing holes through it, so i opted to just get a new quarter which was a better decision anyways.
Found some pics on my cell phone (razr 2 takes great pics, if anyones looking for a good camera phone) I hammer the weld seems in and bondo'd over them, however that side was so damaged that it still wasnt completely flush so it took more than i wanted, oh well.
Painting it, i used a 01' (i think) rsx magnesium metallic. It was u-tec, i wanted to use dupont croma base , but u-tec had a special and i got the clear, 1 gallon of base, and activator for like $220. The nsx silverstone alone from dupont was $260 for 1 gallon alone.
Ordered my wheels, rota track r's gold. $480, ebay.
and here it is
The side that was damaged pretty badSo thats my project, i'm still doing stuff as we speak. All together i have around $4500 in it, but i also did everything myself. Dont think you cant do any of this, i was 17 yrs old when i did (that was 4 months ago, im 18 now) and i did the body work at school in shop so i saved a lot of money, and i used honda-tech and other places
. Its only running 8psi for now on a .57 trim t3/t4 on a kit i pieced together. Will be tuning for 15-20psi soon. Enjoy, feel free to comment.Modified by z6hatchboy at 9:12 PM 6/29/2008
06-29-2008, 05:13 PM
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Re: My hatch build, single cam slam, body and motor! (z6hatchboy)
that is just bad ***. minus the turbo, but i saw you stirpping that teal color, expecting you to go rice, but thats still a good color. good job.
06-29-2008, 06:37 PM
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Nice I love the single slammers, thinking of stealing my girls single cam and doing the same build. Cheap, reliable, and fast....Good Work keep us posted.
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07-02-2008, 06:40 PM
#10
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Re: (ikking29)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ikking29 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">btw how did u install your Cam gear? im gnonna just replace mine and i was wondering on how too do it</TD></TR></TABLE>
Its just that one 10 or 12mm bolt then it pulls off, dont stick anything behind to pry it odd though theres a seal back there.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blk92_d16 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Beautiful job! I give your thread a 9.5 out of 10! LOL</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NOFX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Looks good. What are your future plans besides tuning?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Just the appearance and inside: cf duckbill hood hatch and ck (kevlar) lip hopefully and Bennen tow hooks for the outside. EG6 cluster, clock, and arm rest inside. Then the gc/koni and i think it can rest at that for a while and give the wallet as well as me a break. Maybe a rhd conversio, i've been pondering it .
Its just that one 10 or 12mm bolt then it pulls off, dont stick anything behind to pry it odd though theres a seal back there.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blk92_d16 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Beautiful job! I give your thread a 9.5 out of 10! LOL</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NOFX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Looks good. What are your future plans besides tuning?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Just the appearance and inside: cf duckbill hood hatch and ck (kevlar) lip hopefully and Bennen tow hooks for the outside. EG6 cluster, clock, and arm rest inside. Then the gc/koni and i think it can rest at that for a while and give the wallet as well as me a break. Maybe a rhd conversio, i've been pondering it
.
07-02-2008, 07:11 PM
#15
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Re: (OMGWTFBBQ!)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by OMGWTFBBQ! »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Beautiful single cam. I was going to build one, but bought my JDM engine instead because i wanted reliability. Oh well. 
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks. Lol, there all just as reliable it kept/built properly.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Thanks. Lol, there all just as reliable it kept/built properly.
07-02-2008, 08:56 PM
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Re: (z6hatchboy)
Props for you for the big build -- looks nice. Not sure if I missed or something -- did you install any LSD at all?
Run the boost up to infinity lol.. I'm running the same turbo as you, @ 10psi on a stock motor with ARP's and new oem headgasket.. running for going on 7 months no problems.
Run the boost up to infinity lol.. I'm running the same turbo as you, @ 10psi on a stock motor with ARP's and new oem headgasket.. running for going on 7 months no problems.
07-03-2008, 12:45 AM
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Re: My hatch build, single cam slam, body and motor! (minime-civic)
ive always wanted to see ur build/car hatchboy. my dream build, a little short on cash, but im right there with you.
11-01-2008, 09:18 PM
#23
Honda-Tech Member
Re: My hatch build, single cam slam, body and motor! (soclean1k_JDM)
Nice build, im doing a SOHC D16Y8 Build atm. And im converting my EJ8 from auto to manual. I'm dropping my new block off @ the machine shop this week to get all the work done on the block (changing pistons, rods, bearings, micropolish crank, hone cylinder walls, clean/restore block). I bought the block from som1 on this forum for $80, mileage unknown so I'm having it restored. I really wanted to build the engine with my friend but my mom wouldn't let me do any of this **** at my house, so until I get my own place I have to send my engine work out lol.
