frog169

Ok well i bought a 92 Civic CX from NC. and brought it home, it has a B16A1 swap and has a P72 computer. with a Apexi v-tech controller. has dc sport heads, and a cold air intake, what would someone recommend to make it legel in california? i was talking to another member here on the forums and he said take out the vtech controller and reconnect the wires up-to the ecu. he also mentioned that the B16A1 is Legel to have in the car if i go to the B.A.R. and have them inspect it. so anyone else would like to add there 2cents would be gladly apresheated.

San Jose, CA.

underb00steg6

iTrader: (2)

get a stock header put on also ...and make sure all the vaccuum lines are connected...

JamesV

stock intake and stock headers with heatshield lol

life sux die

all answers are here. peep it. good luck on the B.A.R.'ing process.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=385337

hushypushy

couple corrects, it's a P72 ECU, and it's VTEC (no dash, no H). better correct yourself, i dont want you getting raped by the HT "OMG HE'S WRONG" brigade

SOHCsedan

ITS VTEC GODDAMMIT

sry pet pev of mine

EeeJayEight

also, to make a swap legal in california the engine must be of the same year newer than the chassis... also it must be the same obd

and the will fail you for anything that looks sloppy or missing sensors...

from what i hear the refs to get it BAR'd are ****

good luck tho

BTW, make sure you have vins on the tranny and engine or paperwork for the swap.. if not and u get stopped, its automatically considered stolen... happened to a friend at HIN in LA

Jedi_Sol

-JamesV (hey! my initials!) is correct... however if you do have an aftermarket intake and header, at least make sure they have CARB E.O. number that corresponds to the engine. A heatshield also helps because it fools the Ref into thinking it is a stock header (i passed with a jdm header, but the Ref did not notice because of the heatshield)

-You'll also want to get the corresponding ECU for the b16a1 engine. The P72 ecu is used on GSR engines so the Ref might catch that. Also, make sure the ECU has the sticker on it with the ECU code, i failed when i BAR'd the car because my ECU was missing the sticker.

-Make sure you have a Catalytic Converter hooked up with an o2 sensor (pretty obvious).

-Make sure you are not throwing any "Check Engine Lights"

-DEFINATELY lose the Apex VTEC controller.

-EeeJayEight is correct, make sure the engine bay looks nice and STOCK. Try to find a vacuum diagram for the b16a1 and double check that all of the necessary vacuum lines and sensors (that are related to Emissions) are present and hooked up. The Ref will ususally have the same diagram and trace each hose (to a certain extent). If you DO have an aftermarket intake, it might help to use the stock breather pipe (from the top of the valve cover to the intake arm), i failed BAR because i didnt have that pipe so mine looked ghetto rigged.

-DO in fact check that the engine is the same year or newer than the chassis. If wikipedia is correct, the b16a1 should be from either a 1989-1992 EDM CRX vti
or a 1990-1991 CRX SiR. If you do not know how to check the year of the engine, look at the space above the header and below the valve cover, you should see a stamp with the numbers "9|1" + 1 year = the year of the engine. For example, my engine has the stamp 9|3 + 1year = 1994 engine. If the engine does not match the year of the chassis... then hope for the best

-Make sure you have some sort of "receipt of sale" to prove that the engine is not stolen, you might even have to write one up yourself. You can find booklets of "receipt of sale" at Staples or Office Depot. On that receipt, you should also put the vin# for the Engine and the Transmission. If the engine does not have a vin#, you could also just put the "block code" (found below where "b16a1" is stamped)... just SOMETHING that corresponds to that particular engine.

These are the things i can think of to help you pass the visual inspections. As far as the tailpipe portion of the test, it will not not hurt to get new spark plugs, plug wires, dizzy cap and rotor, clean air filter, an oil change, and double check that the timing is correct.

Additionally, you get ONE free retest. So IF you fail the first time, the Ref will give you a checklist of EVERYTHING YOU NEED to make the car Smog legal. Do everything on that checklist and take the free retest, hopefull you'll pass this time.

Test is $30 and a BAR certificate is $8.25. For every $30 you pay, you are entitled to ONE free retest. After that, you have to pay another $30 For me, i took the test 3times...so i paid $68.25

Calfornia Bureau of Automotive Repair: 1-800-622-7733

Good luck on passing BAR!
-James


Modified by Jedi_Sol at 11:14 AM 12/11/2005

frog169

Question, jedi_sol u mentioned i should have an o2 sensor connected to the cat, on the obd1 engines they are only sopost to have 1 o2 senser (before the cat) am i correct? htats what 3 of 4 people told me so far.

It also has DC sport headers which has a plate on the header it self with the C.A.R.B. EO# on it.

Below is the engine picture.




Modified by frog169 at 5:36 PM 12/12/2005

littleredcivic

didn't we go over all this last night at 1 in the morning??

the BAR test is no longer 30...i paid 98.25 with the cert. the cert is still 8.25, you can guess where the other money went.

vart

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOHCsedan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ITS VTEC GODDAMMIT

sry pet pev of mine</TD></TR></TABLE>
STFU n00b

sorry, pet pev of mine

built562

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by frog169 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Question, jedi_sol u mentioned i should have an o2 sensor connected to the cat, on the obd1 engines they are only sopost to have 1 o2 senser (before the cat) am i correct? htats what 3 of 4 people told me so far.

It also has DC sport headers which has a plate on the header it self with the C.A.R.B. EO# on it.

Below is the engine picture.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

ok. lose the intake, hide the vtec controller. get a usdm p30 ecu from a del sol vtec, hook up the evap purge solenoid. make sure the other vacuum lines are connected, no check engine lights. tune it up and you will be fine

Jedi_Sol

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by frog169 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Question, jedi_sol u mentioned i should have an o2 sensor connected to the cat, on the obd1 engines they are only sopost to have 1 o2 senser (before the cat) am i correct? htats what 3 of 4 people told me so far.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah yeah, thats fine too... little technicalities that slip my mind

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by littleredcivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i paid 98.25 with the cert. the cert is still 8.25,
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ouch, i guess the GOV figured they can make EVEN MORE money off of us.

btw, thats a nice blue, what's the name of that color?

James


Modified by Jedi_Sol at 9:11 AM 12/12/2005

frog169

its a STI Blue.

VRD^sam

Swap the old motor back in...

JeffBro

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by elf_vang &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Swap the old motor back in...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats real helpful.

Yeah you wont pass with that intake. Get a stock intake and a p30 ecu and hook up ur EVAP lines and stuff and you will b fine.