my car on start up.
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my car on start up.
ok so lately when i start my car up its starts off idling funny but then it stops and goes to normal.
this is what a part of my bay looks like atm. the orange / redish hoes u c was tucked under the intake mani. and i pulled it up and thats what i see..
and here is the clip on start up..
anyone know if this is a really bad thing? cuz i know its not a good thing. and how could i fix it?
this is what a part of my bay looks like atm. the orange / redish hoes u c was tucked under the intake mani. and i pulled it up and thats what i see..
and here is the clip on start up..
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Re: my car on start up. (Aralliius)
look in between your injectors and there is a spot for you to plug that into....plug it in and see if you have the same problem.....
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Re: my car on start up. (mcvtec)
the hose came with the car lol
edit:
thansk man that helped! no more of that but...
well it seem 08 just isnt gonna be my year.... just got back from discount and while lookin at my tranny i c this...
looks like a pretty decent amount of oil on th front and side of the tranny.
so i jack the car up for a couple mins literally.. and notice this on the ground.
so then i take the car off the jack and take a further look at my tranny and in my bay and then i c this...
a crap load of oil all over the rear of the tranny toward the fire wall. i looks to becoming from where the rear of the tranny meets the motor block. and for the front of the tranny seems 2 be coming from the motor block and head but alot ALOT slower than the other...
Modified by Aralliius at 11:45 AM 1/2/2008
edit:
thansk man that helped! no more of that but...
well it seem 08 just isnt gonna be my year.... just got back from discount and while lookin at my tranny i c this...
looks like a pretty decent amount of oil on th front and side of the tranny.
so i jack the car up for a couple mins literally.. and notice this on the ground.
so then i take the car off the jack and take a further look at my tranny and in my bay and then i c this...
a crap load of oil all over the rear of the tranny toward the fire wall. i looks to becoming from where the rear of the tranny meets the motor block. and for the front of the tranny seems 2 be coming from the motor block and head but alot ALOT slower than the other...
Modified by Aralliius at 11:45 AM 1/2/2008
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Re: my car on start up. (Aralliius)
my car leaked the same way, the major leak was the seal on the v-tec solonoid, it was pouring oil, replaced the seal, now it still has a minor leak, i think dist. seal.. but from the pics it looks like you got the same thing... hope this helps
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Re: my car on start up. (speedooo)
anything leaking sucks ballz.... i feel you bro.... anyway, the only thing that i can suggest is to clean the tranny, and any where else its dirty to get a better idea of where the leak is coming from. hope you fix it soon.....
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Re: (MURPHY660)
Vtec solenoid seal and probably distributor o-ring seal as well.
Bad thing about the dizzy o-ring seal is if you let it continue leaking, it will degrade the heater hose directly underneath the dizzy and it will come apart spilling coolant everywhere, and if you're -really- lucky, overheat your motor.
Those are two pretty easy and cheap fixes, so get after it!
Bad thing about the dizzy o-ring seal is if you let it continue leaking, it will degrade the heater hose directly underneath the dizzy and it will come apart spilling coolant everywhere, and if you're -really- lucky, overheat your motor.
Those are two pretty easy and cheap fixes, so get after it!
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Re: (Dramier)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dramier »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Vtec solenoid seal and probably distributor o-ring seal as well.
Bad thing about the dizzy o-ring seal is if you let it continue leaking, it will degrade the heater hose directly underneath the dizzy and it will come apart spilling coolant everywhere, and if you're -really- lucky, overheat your motor.
Those are two pretty easy and cheap fixes, so get after it!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks for the info guys! yep getting them all done this weekend going to make a parts run to honda and pick those 2 up and go ahead and change the head gasket since the car is so old and dought its been changed and do all my major fluid changes this.
Bad thing about the dizzy o-ring seal is if you let it continue leaking, it will degrade the heater hose directly underneath the dizzy and it will come apart spilling coolant everywhere, and if you're -really- lucky, overheat your motor.
Those are two pretty easy and cheap fixes, so get after it!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks for the info guys! yep getting them all done this weekend going to make a parts run to honda and pick those 2 up and go ahead and change the head gasket since the car is so old and dought its been changed and do all my major fluid changes this.
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Re: (Aralliius)
i wouldn't change the headgasket unless you are sure that it is leaking. also do the waterpump and timing belt if you decide to do the headgasket.
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Re: (newby_j)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by newby_j »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i wouldn't change the headgasket unless you are sure that it is leaking. also do the waterpump and timing belt if you decide to do the headgasket.</TD></TR></TABLE>
im not so i dont think i will but a few ppl have stated that it could be coming from the vtec solioid seal well.. i went to go double check it all i didnt c any oil or any traces of oil around the solioid.. i mean its called a vtec solioid seal right. so wouldn't that mean it gets installed around the vtec solioid... but idk lmk if i am wrong. i personaly after seeing no oil around the solioid am starting to think its something worse.
edit: i am still gonna do the o ring change tho
im not so i dont think i will but a few ppl have stated that it could be coming from the vtec solioid seal well.. i went to go double check it all i didnt c any oil or any traces of oil around the solioid.. i mean its called a vtec solioid seal right. so wouldn't that mean it gets installed around the vtec solioid... but idk lmk if i am wrong. i personaly after seeing no oil around the solioid am starting to think its something worse.
edit: i am still gonna do the o ring change tho
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Re: oil leak
A lil tip tp help you find the source of leak.
Wash down the entire engine with degreaser and let dry. Compressed air comes in handy here. Dont run the car cause it will defeat the purpose of this.
Once dry, dust the area where you suspect the oil is coming from with baby powder so everything is white and baby powder fresh!
Now start the engine and where-ever the leak is will be highly visible due to the contrast of the powder and the wet oil!
Might even find others, wo knows, hope this helps if you do it!!
Wash down the entire engine with degreaser and let dry. Compressed air comes in handy here. Dont run the car cause it will defeat the purpose of this.
Once dry, dust the area where you suspect the oil is coming from with baby powder so everything is white and baby powder fresh!
Now start the engine and where-ever the leak is will be highly visible due to the contrast of the powder and the wet oil!
Might even find others, wo knows, hope this helps if you do it!!
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Re: oil leak (JustG)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JustG »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A lil tip tp help you find the source of leak.
Wash down the entire engine with degreaser and let dry. Compressed air comes in handy here. Dont run the car cause it will defeat the purpose of this.
Once dry, dust the area where you suspect the oil is coming from with baby powder so everything is white and baby powder fresh!
Now start the engine and where-ever the leak is will be highly visible due to the contrast of the powder and the wet oil!
Might even find others, wo knows, hope this helps if you do it!! </TD></TR></TABLE>
wow thats actually a good idea thanks
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jadugartir »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Check your cam seal as well as your distributor o-ring.</TD></TR></TABLE>
will do
Wash down the entire engine with degreaser and let dry. Compressed air comes in handy here. Dont run the car cause it will defeat the purpose of this.
Once dry, dust the area where you suspect the oil is coming from with baby powder so everything is white and baby powder fresh!
Now start the engine and where-ever the leak is will be highly visible due to the contrast of the powder and the wet oil!
Might even find others, wo knows, hope this helps if you do it!! </TD></TR></TABLE>
wow thats actually a good idea thanks
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jadugartir »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Check your cam seal as well as your distributor o-ring.</TD></TR></TABLE>
will do
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Re: oil leak (Aralliius)
ok so i went to buy the o ring today and put it on and while i was at it i went ahead and changed my Tranny fluid.. but here is the problem i put the o ring on and re mounted the distributor and the car still leaks oil just alot slower! now another thing is that when i started the car up it started up really really low and hard. so sinnce it was still leaking oil slowly when the car was on / off i turned it off took the dizzy off again and on the very bottom i c this.....
white arrow = new o ring
red arrow = isnt there something that needs to be in that whole??
white arrow = new o ring
red arrow = isnt there something that needs to be in that whole??
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Re: my car on start up. (A-)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by A- »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it wont start?</TD></TR></TABLE>
no it will start just rough n' hard but it still leaks while the car is on and it seems 2 me its coming from that lil hole wit the red arrow and i am asking what / if anything goes in it..
no it will start just rough n' hard but it still leaks while the car is on and it seems 2 me its coming from that lil hole wit the red arrow and i am asking what / if anything goes in it..
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Re: my car on start up. (h-duced)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by h-duced »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think its time for a swap </TD></TR></TABLE>
i agree but dont have the money right now. so i gotta stick with this.
i agree but dont have the money right now. so i gotta stick with this.
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Re: oil leak (Aralliius)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Aralliius »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok so i went to buy the o ring today and put it on and while i was at it i went ahead and changed my Tranny fluid.. but here is the problem i put the o ring on and re mounted the distributor and the car still leaks oil just alot slower! now another thing is that when i started the car up it started up really really low and hard. so sinnce it was still leaking oil slowly when the car was on / off i turned it off took the dizzy off again and on the very bottom i c this.....
white arrow = new o ring
red arrow = isnt there something that needs to be in that whole??
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I had a new Z6 dizzy in my hands just the other day and run a B7 dizzy on my car, and didn't have a hole like that anywhere on either. You sure thats even the right dizzy for the car?
*Edit*
Also, keep in mind, depending upon how you mount your dizzy, it adjusts your ignition timing, so for example, if you bolted it back on all the way to one side, it will run like hell because the timing will be all the way advanced or retarded, Get a timing light, or borrow one to verify your timing is correct after jumping your service connector
And when you do your head gasket, PLEASE be careful to torque everything in order, and use a Honda OEM gasket purchased from a dealership.
If you don't know what I mean as far as 'torque everything in order' or 'advance and retard timing' Go buy a Haynes/Chilton's manual for your car, they are only $16 and are an EXTREMELY important asset, especially when doing head gaskets.
white arrow = new o ring
red arrow = isnt there something that needs to be in that whole??
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I had a new Z6 dizzy in my hands just the other day and run a B7 dizzy on my car, and didn't have a hole like that anywhere on either. You sure thats even the right dizzy for the car?
*Edit*
Also, keep in mind, depending upon how you mount your dizzy, it adjusts your ignition timing, so for example, if you bolted it back on all the way to one side, it will run like hell because the timing will be all the way advanced or retarded, Get a timing light, or borrow one to verify your timing is correct after jumping your service connector
And when you do your head gasket, PLEASE be careful to torque everything in order, and use a Honda OEM gasket purchased from a dealership.
If you don't know what I mean as far as 'torque everything in order' or 'advance and retard timing' Go buy a Haynes/Chilton's manual for your car, they are only $16 and are an EXTREMELY important asset, especially when doing head gaskets.
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Re: oil leak (Dasfinc)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dasfinc »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I had a new Z6 dizzy in my hands just the other day and run a B7 dizzy on my car, and didn't have a hole like that anywhere on either. You sure thats even the right dizzy for the car?
*Edit*
Also, keep in mind, depending upon how you mount your dizzy, it adjusts your ignition timing, so for example, if you bolted it back on all the way to one side, it will run like hell because the timing will be all the way advanced or retarded, Get a timing light, or borrow one to verify your timing is correct after jumping your service connector
And when you do your head gasket, PLEASE be careful to torque everything in order, and use a Honda OEM gasket purchased from a dealership.
If you don't know what I mean as far as 'torque everything in order' or 'advance and retard timing' Go buy a Haynes/Chilton's manual for your car, they are only $16 and are an EXTREMELY important asset, especially when doing head gaskets.</TD></TR></TABLE>
honestly.. i have no clue if it is.. it came with the car. i know what u mean buy the retarded timing i have dealt with that before once but i mean anyone have a pic of a new d16z6 dizzy so i have a refrance. yeah i am waiting to do the head gasket till later on when i have all of the tools / all the info i need, including that book witch ill prolly go buy here in a couple days.
I had a new Z6 dizzy in my hands just the other day and run a B7 dizzy on my car, and didn't have a hole like that anywhere on either. You sure thats even the right dizzy for the car?
*Edit*
Also, keep in mind, depending upon how you mount your dizzy, it adjusts your ignition timing, so for example, if you bolted it back on all the way to one side, it will run like hell because the timing will be all the way advanced or retarded, Get a timing light, or borrow one to verify your timing is correct after jumping your service connector
And when you do your head gasket, PLEASE be careful to torque everything in order, and use a Honda OEM gasket purchased from a dealership.
If you don't know what I mean as far as 'torque everything in order' or 'advance and retard timing' Go buy a Haynes/Chilton's manual for your car, they are only $16 and are an EXTREMELY important asset, especially when doing head gaskets.</TD></TR></TABLE>
honestly.. i have no clue if it is.. it came with the car. i know what u mean buy the retarded timing i have dealt with that before once but i mean anyone have a pic of a new d16z6 dizzy so i have a refrance. yeah i am waiting to do the head gasket till later on when i have all of the tools / all the info i need, including that book witch ill prolly go buy here in a couple days.