myEKsedan

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I'm tucking everything in the engine bay and I have been looking for a battery relocation setup to best fit my needs. Here's what I have so far:

1. The fuse box that is located under the hood is now located in the glove box inside the vehicle.

2. I have the Jegs jump post's set up in the engine bay as well (these: http://www.jegs.com/i/QuickCar+Racin...7-703/10002/-1)

Here is the diagram I have as of now.



Basically it will be ran the same was it was stock just with 2 gauge wire.

I understand that in order to run the car at a track the vehicle must have a kill switch.

I've also herd that you need a circuit breaker inline near the battery.

I noticed that the kill switches have different amperage rating's. What size kill switch should I get and what size circuit breaker should I get and where should I put it.

Will this setup work or should I go a different route?

myEKsedan

iTrader: (1)

TTT

myEKsedan

iTrader: (1)

TTT

myEKsedan

iTrader: (1)

bump

MRGRIM

iTrader: (1)

save a lot of wire, use the +post as a junction
batt to +post
starter to +post
fusebox to +post

where is the batt located?
and run the Neg straight to the block

Tkrizz

iTrader: (2)

Post in here with that same question: http://marketplace.honda-tech.com/sh...php?p=45361306

Might get some good ideas reading the thread as well.

myEKsedan

iTrader: (1)

Battery is located in the trunk

I've read that you want to have a seperate wire straight from the battery to the starter so you won't get near as much interferance from everything else. How true is that?

Other than that, I was going to use the +post under the hood as a junction for the fusebox, ect.

myEKsedan

iTrader: (1)

Also, what size kill switch and circuit breaker should I get for the system?
Where should I put the circuit breaker? Inline with the positive cable that runs to the positive post on the fire wall?

Hidenplanvew

1st your kill switch needs to also cut power to the alt or it wont matter and engine will keep running.

2. You dont need to run a ground to the block, just make a nice 2 gauge ground from the rail to the block. (I steped up all the grounds on the car and it seemed to help alittle with the smoothness on the dyno)

Other then that your write up looks like normal just diffrent places.. but why does a wire from the battery run to the fire wall the back to the fues box? You dont need that, also make sure you use a sealed battery box or a build a sealed bulk head. You can run the wire from the output of the alt to the battery and a single wire to the fues box. Then run your wire from the fues box to the starter no need to waste wire/money.

I think you need a 30amp cut off or just get the bigest amp cutoff you can afford. MAke sure to get one with a removable handle unless this is just a track car.

myEKsedan

iTrader: (1)

My reasoning for the wire running to the firewall to the fusebox is so the remote terminals are fully functional. I just figured I would use the + remote terminal as a junction so to speak with the exception of the starter. Could I just use the single wire from the battery till the front of the car and use a distribution block to split off one power wire for the starter and one power wire to the + remote terminal and then to the fuse box? Idk where I read it, but I read somewhere that you want a separate wire for the starter being that the starter draws the most amps from the system. How true is this? this is my first relocation and there's not to much good info out there.

-Chris

myEKsedan

iTrader: (1)

Use the distribution block like this:



Like I said above, I read that this puts to much amps on the circuit at one time. The way its ran stock, there is a wire running straight from the starter to the positive battery terminal as most of you know.

teggi

i believe this is only true only while starting the car, that is why the battery is located so close to the starter in the engine bay. the fix to this while relocating the battery is bigger gauge wire. 4G should be fine. also the less wire the better. another thing is to get rid of the distribution block, use the + post in the engine bay as a distribution block instead.

myEKsedan

iTrader: (1)

Didn't think of using the + post as a distribution block. good call
I was planning on using 2 gauge wire for the battery.

anybody know how many amps the starter draws while cranking? just so I can get an idea on what size circuit breaker to get?

myEKsedan

iTrader: (1)

What you think? Would this be good?:

Kill switch (rated at 125A continuous 250A momentary switch compatible with 12V systems):

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performan...10373/10002/-1

Circuit Breaker (rated @ 100amps)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/100A-100-Amp...item43a009a1c1

jbpnoman

I would avoid that circuit breaker. Cheap eBay parts don't belong in any car, especially something you're wanting to track. Get yourself a fuse block, and a half dozen 100A fuses. That's what I've been using for my reloc for a few years now. You also want that fuse block as close as possible to the battery terminal, so reverse how you have the fuse and the kill switch.

I'm not sure why you're adding those terminal ends to it. Unless you're planning on making the battery inaccessible in the trunk, it's not necessary.

myEKsedan

iTrader: (1)

So reverse the the order of the kill switch and circuit breaker and do away with the circuit breaker all together ehh? lol I'll do that. And yes I am iffy about using ebay parts but it was just and example. Guess ill be using a fuse block. 100A is good for the system tho? And for the kill switch, is it rated at a good standard?

And to answer your question about the remote terminals in the engine bay, the first plan was to put the battery behind the front bumper but the more I thought about it I didn't like the idea...That's why the remote terminals are there.

myEKsedan

iTrader: (1)

Another question

Should I run a wire straight from the battery to the starter or just use the + remote terminal as a distribution point for the starter?

jbpnoman

Definitely switch to a fuse block. Assuming you're running a stock D series motor, 100A is just fine. I've even used a 75A when I was in a pinch, but i wouldn't recommend it.

As long as the battery will be accessible in the trunk, you don't need the terminals. Just one more point of possible failure.

Here's how I have mine running. I don't have a kill switch, so I added it in for your setup.

Battery -> 2g -> fuse block -> 2g -> (kill switch) -> 2g -> firewall -> 2g -> distribution block -> 4g -> starter/fuse block

myEKsedan

iTrader: (1)

Motor is a B18C1. I was going to use 2 gauge throughout the system just to be safe. Kinda like I had in the second diagram that I posted just deleting the distribution block and using the + remote terminal as a distribution block. what-cha think?

myEKsedan

iTrader: (1)

And something like this as the fuse holder:

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...y-Scosche.html

probably without the sweet LED's tho

jbpnoman

Scosche is what I'm using in my car. Never had a problem. You don't need 2g from the distribution block, 4g would work just fine, but you wouldn't hurt anything by running 2g.

teggi

this! easy, simple, done.

myEKsedan

iTrader: (1)

Sweet! Thanks guys!

Hidenplanvew

You don't need anything in line from the battery to the fuse box.. That's why you have a fuse box. The car will automatically kill power to everything else while cranking except like full pump, dizzy and things that are needed for starting.

jbpnoman

You obviously don't know what the point of a fuse is. Not having a fuse is not only dangerous to your car, it's also dangerous to yourself. Wires can overheat before they damage electrical components. Overheated wires can catch on fire. A flaming wire under carpet or behind plastic body panels can put the whole car up in flames before you know it.

ALL wires should have a fuse as close to the power source as possible, period.