ReVeNgEd-SoN

I finally got some money to together and started to order parts for my Turbo D Build. I know some of you are probably going to say 'well why didn't you just spend the money on a B?', simply put; I wanted to build a D-Series. Lol

You can look in my avatar to get a picture of my car (yes I know it's riced out the *** right now) cause it's how I bought the car 5 years ago when I turned 16. Once i'm done with my build, i'm going to convert my front end to a 00 Si and go from there.

Here's a list of parts i've ordered:

Garrett T3 60 .48 a/r
Tial 50MM Q BOV
Tial 38MM Wastegate
Go-Autoworks Intercooler
Go-Autoworks Custom Downpipe 2.5
Go-Autoworks Custom Turbo Manifold (A\C Compatible)
1/2 Size Aluminum Radiator & Slimline Fan
APR Head Studs
Walbro 255LPH Fuel Pump
Hondata S300
PTE 660CC Fuel Injectors
4 Bar Map Sensor
Eagle Rods + Vitara Pistons

Update: More Parts Ordered 2/8/2012

Edelbrock Performer X Intake Manifold
Hondata Heatshield Intake Manifold Gasket
APEXi High Performance Metal Head Gasket 1.5mm
AEM High Volume Fuel Rail
Skunk2 Throttle Body 68mm Black
Skunk2 Pro S Full Coilovers

I'm only looking to make around 200whp with this current setup, probably boost around 10/12psi for a DD. I know I should upgrade some other things, but those aren't as essential for the type of power i'm aiming for right now. My friend is currently running 20psi for 3 years with pretty much the same stuff I listed (maybe a few other minor misc. stuff upgraded).

I will post pictures once I receive everything and start on my build

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

200hp on a built and boosted engine is a waste. You can get that stock.

CRISxMOB

my boy romit made 190whp on a stock b20v. d series fully built makes decent power. you can only do so much with a sohc d series tho. b series the set ups are endless numbers are decent. all motor & turbo set ups can be amazing depending on driver. d series is a good sey up to start on tho. i started with d16z6 all motor. only got mid 15s pretty much built.

ReVeNgEd-SoN

You act like i've never going to turn my boost up... I'm only running low boost because i'm moving after my car is done and driving 10 hours so I don't want to be hard on it at first. Once I get myself settled at my new place I plan to buy a intake and a few other misc things before I turn my boost up and retune.

I only plan to make around 350whp max MAYBE 400whp. But other then that, this is just my toy. I'm not trying to throw around impressive numbers.

chewyv

z6 crank for extra insurance dood.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Sorry. You didn't mention any of that in your OP. What else are we to go on?

Don't want to be hard on it? That makes no sense. It will be built. I also don't understand the point of 200 now and more later. When my build is finally finished I don't plan on boosting in steps. I'm picking a goal then going for it. Tune now and then another later? Unless you know what you're doing with that S300 then it's a waste to have to get it tuned twice.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Whatever. I recall someone putting down 600hp on a Vitara build recently. How much power do you want? Jeez. 200-300hp on a Civic on the street is plenty.

ReVeNgEd-SoN

Just because it's built doesn't mean im going to beat the **** outta my car. It's for fun and a toy to play around with. It's also my daily driver which means I actually want it to LAST while I work on getting other **** done on it. When I get my head built then i'll worry about beating on it, until then i'm not trying to make insane amounts of power. Even 250whp is fine with me, built motor or not.

Just because I have a certain preference in how I want to handle my car, doesn't mean you have to nag on how I do it. So what if my motor is built, doesn't mean I should bang on it?

vartok

I think what was ment was that you can make 200hp on stock pistons and rods and it still be reliable. So to have a built motor and not go higher is a bit of a waist... if you only want 200hp right now... just do a comp test to make sure your rings valves and head gasket are in decent shape drop a turbo and be done with it till you want more... then do the full build.... atleast thats how i took it.

mmcd

I agree. Anything over 300hp on the street is great. Sometimes I wish my car was still only 300hp it was more fun on the street.

Texas4door

FYI:
Before you start pumping out the power, get some better wheels/tires/suspension that can handle it
None of this "cut shocks" **** XP
All that power is wasted if you throw it through a corner and it winds up in the ditch!

luis_ej8

iTrader: (4)

X2!!
I'm breaking in my built boosted gsr and I'm on stock suspension on tien springs and I spin like crazy lol

Deej23

Agreed! A 300Hp civic on the street will dog lots of ppl!

ReVeNgEd-SoN

I just ordered a few more things (still going to take 2-3 weeks to get my Turbo and Downpipe though )

Edelbrock Performer X Intake Manifold
Hondata Heatshield Intake Manifold Gasket
APEXi High Performance Metal Head Gasket 1.5mm
AEM High Volume Fuel Rail
Skunk2 Throttle Body 68mm Black
Skunk2 Pro S Full Coilovers

I talked to my tuner and i'll probably be running around 300whp with the setup I have. I'm going to start building the head once I get everything else finished, so that will be my next project.

I was going to do that, but the shop wanted $300 to check everything and I thought it was just a waste of money considering i'm having my friend install everything for me. The only thing i'll have to do is take it to get tuned which is $400 flat here.

phranky

Looks like you have a good build so far! I always loved boosted D series. I bought a CTR engine and now I'm more of a B series guy, but I think I'll always be a sucker for a well built d series, I'm in for more!

ReVeNgEd-SoN

Yeah I was in a debate with myself to stay D or go B, but I was actually looking for a 99-00 Si to work on, though I figured why not just work on my car. My friend has a boosted D, on 300whp, built bottom end, stock top running 20psi for 3 years. After riding in his car I decided to just go for it. He's only had a few minor problems, went through 1 eBay turbo, 1 eBay manifold and 1 tranny after doing a burnout. He's also tuned on Neptune, but i'm going with Hondata S300

hannslebo

Street racing is illegal!

Keep it on the track!

021_bennett

Sounds good looking forward to seeing it de-riced

sde780

You need another turbo. That T3 60 trim isn't going to break 300whp, especially with the .48ar housing.

Imo you're wasting money on useless parts. The stock fuel rail is fine for your goals. You don't need an Apexi headgasket. Put that money into better suspension and tires.

I'd get a T3/T4 50 trim for your power goals. The T3 60 trim will be absolutely maxed out right around 300whp. I made 300whp/265ftlbs on a T3 60 trim with a .63ar turbine housing at 20 psi. I believe I was overspinning the shaft and the turbo failed two days later.

For 200whp your current turbo + stock motor will do great. Put some ARP's in if you want, it'll spool very nicely and be a fun DD. I put 12k miles on my 155k Y8 with stock headstuds at 8 psi on the T3 60 trim.

I would go with the custom length I-beams for rods. The Eagles will drop you to around 7.5:1 compression whereas with the custom length ones I'm close to 9.0:1 with my slightly decked block. I believe RC autoworks keep them in stock.

ReVeNgEd-SoN

I'd rather build my car right the first time, then having to go back and do stuff over again. Just because I want a certain goal, doesn't mean I can go above and beyond what I need for future goals. You say im wasting money, but yet when I want to achieve a higher goal, i'll end up needed those things anyways and besides it doesn't hurt to have does it?

I plan on buying another turbo once I have some fun with this current build, I WILL be aiming for more power later down the road, but that isn't my priority right now.

CRISxMOB

i dnt doubt tht. but 600whp on a fully built d series turbo. bisimoto has tht one d series turbo set up in his ef wagon. put like 800whp? those arent ment to be dd. d series dd tops 200-250whp. stock internals.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

No kidding. The point I was trying to make was that D-series can put down power. That's all. If you also read I also said 200-300hp on the street is plenty.

kyden

no. use oem headgasket and oem fuel rail. the fuel rail has no purpose unless you are running an aftermarket regulator, which you will most likely never need. thicker headgasket makes no sense either.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Everything on this list is absolutely unnecessary for your power goal. And I would look into other suspension options if I were you. And, as always, I never see anybody with these "builds" ever think of upgrading the clutch.

Also, putting up a parts list isn't a build. You might want to revisit this thread when you actually get the parts and commence with building.

ReVeNgEd-SoN

Obviously I know putting up parts isn't a build, do you have to criticize everything I post? I'm laying down the basic needs of my build and I stated i'd take pictures once my parts start arrive and I take my car to my friend's shop to get worked on. If your going to continue to post negative **** then stop coming to my thread?

And yeah so what if that stuff is unnecessary for my power goal? Ever think I might want a higher goal later down the road and i'll already have 90% of the stuff already? Besides I don't mind my engine bay looking nice with all the extra goodies in there. I already have a Stage 5 Clutch installed in my car and the only 'suspension' i'm missing is coilovers which I stated above that I bought.

I probably wont be using the fuel rail, but one of my friend's said if I don't he'd buy it off me, so I went ahead and bought it anyways. Also a thicker headgasket = lower compression = longer life of the engine.