mattssi

I just finished installing a b18c that i got out of a wrecked gsr, and the motor went for a nice ride in the accident, but the only damage to the motor was the valve cover was busted, like it shattered in one spot. Other than that, the engine is fine. When i pulled the motor and brought it home, I noticed upon inspection that the cams were both off quite a ways off. Like when the bottom end was at tdc, the cam gears where they should be up. were more like a quarter turn to the left. When i pulled the motor, it had good compression, it was hard to turn by hand at the crank, now it is easy with little to no resistence. I have done timing on alot of honda engines, but never on a b18c. Is there some other mark that your supposed to do the timing off of, or is it the white mark on the crank pulley? On this cp, the 3 timing marks come first, then the white mark, but shouldn't the tdc mark come before not after the 3 timing marks? help please.
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Modified by mattssi at 5:46 PM 1/1/2006


Modified by mattssi at 5:48 PM 1/1/2006

mattssi

bump

littleredcivic

do the cam timing from the timing belt. not from the main pulley. once you get the covers off, you will see the oil pump pulley on the crank. there is a line on the pulley that will match up with a line on the block. then line up the cam pulleys with the lines on themselves, it will form a straight line and the arrows should point UP. that is #1 tdc.

mattssi

so the markings on the crank pulley is not really tdc, I'm cunfused. I know that there is markings on the oil pump gear, But i cannot get the crank pulley bolt off. My impact isn't strong enough. LIke i said before, when i took the timing belt covers off before, I noticed that the timing was off on the motor.. But it may not have been.

kyden

TDC on the pulley is the white mark. but check it at the oil pump once the pulley is off..

highroller54

hope you didn't get the t-belt out now and bend valves.

turboITR#704

You said that the motor came out of a wrecked gsr? How bad,A hard hit will throw timing off.Also find out if the motor ran upside down in the car you took it out of. Goodluck

highroller54

i think he had comp, before he "fixed" it. I have a bad feeling it was good but he thought the marks were out.

mattssi

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turboITR#704 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You said that the motor came out of a wrecked gsr? How bad,A hard hit will throw timing off.Also find out if the motor ran upside down in the car you took it out of. Goodluck</TD></TR></TABLE>
the car did roll! What could that do to a motor?

highroller54

running upside down=no oil pressure

mattssi

the motor still spins freely. I removed the cams and there was no burr's or scaring from oil loss. Would it be same to assume the same from the bottom end? And what could oil loss have to do with no compression?

Luserkid

TDC on the CP is the white mark.

TDC on the cams is the cam gears facing up with a straight line to the line on the back cover.

Try a valve adjustment and get you hands on a compression testor. "i spun it and it built compression" isnt testing compression. Just because you feel 10psi of pressure doesnt mean youll feel 180psi of pressure.

mattssi

I can tell by the sound of the engine when trying to start it that it doesn't have compression. it spins too fast and the sound is constant. So there is no need to do a compression test. I can tell you that it is way to low. But that would be across the board. So it has to be timing related o would think. Does something usually happen like this when the car rolls? Could the engine going upside down cause the valves to be far off enough to do this? Or should i pull the head?

mattssi

Yesterday i removed the head and checked where the #1 piston was when the crank pully was at tdc, the number 1 was like 2 inches below the deck. So needless to say, the crank pulley that is on my engine is either the wrong one (highly doubtful) or there was some sort of messup from the factory, has anybody heard of a crank pulley being wrong from the factory?

RTI

You are saying that TDC of cylinder 1 as indicated by the mark on the crank pulley is incorrect? If that is true a lot of people could be screwed when changing their timing belt. I have never heard of this before.

mattssi

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You are saying that TDC of cylinder 1 as indicated by the mark on the crank pulley is incorrect? If that is true a lot of people could be screwed when changing their timing belt. I have never heard of this before.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That is exactly 100% what i am saying. The motor came out of a car that had no modifications to the motor. The timing belt has never been changed. Has anybody seen this?

Slopoke

I've have never personally seen that or heard of it either.

What you need to do is take off the crank pulley and line up the crank using the oil pump. That will allow you to bypass the crank pulley problem all together.

And just for your info, the 3 ignition timing marks are supposed to come before the TDC mark. The marks are 14,16, and 18 BTC(Before Top dead Center).

mattssi

yeah,I broke out the helms to verify that. This really boggles my mind. I wonder if it is the wrong crank pulley? The motor seriously has never been tampered with. All the factory bolt were there and covered with the 100k plus miles of road grime.

asubennett

Put the pulley back on with the head off. Put the #1 piston to true TDC and then notch your pulley with a new mark to verify TDC in the future.

Or just buy a piston stop to thread into you spark plug hole and you will never need the crank pulley again for timing verification.

mattssi

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by asubennett &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Put the pulley back on with the head off. Put the #1 piston to true TDC and then notch your pulley with a new mark to verify TDC in the future.

Or just buy a piston stop to thread into you spark plug hole and you will never need the crank pulley again for timing verification.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That is exactly what i did.... but i think there might be some damage from the timing being so far off.. I did notch the crank pulley though. My concern was whether or not the crank pulley is wrong, or the crank itself was made wrong? which do you think the case would be.. If the pulley is made wrong, then i would like to just get a replacement so that when using my timing light i have some reference spots.

RTI

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mattssi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That is exactly what i did.... but i think there might be some damage from the timing being so far off.. I did notch the crank pulley though. My concern was whether or not the crank pulley is wrong, or the crank itself was made wrong? which do you think the case would be.. If the pulley is made wrong, then i would like to just get a replacement so that when using my timing light i have some reference spots. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Where is the slot for the key when No 1 cylinder is at TDC?

mattssi

I will take a pic when i get the crank pulley off. Just so that you guys don't think i am crazy. I was able to get the motor fired up last night, but then ran into a bunch of other problems?