a1320honda

i have a 92 dx hatch with a jdm d15b vtec running on an auto p28 ecu conv. to manual. i have the carbon-fiber auto meter a\f gauge and it sits right in the stoich area all the time, except when i let off the gas and it drops off the lean side. i had this gauge in my accord and when i got on it, it would run right at rich like the manual said it would. what do i need to do to get this this to richen up a little. is it just buying a fpr or what? i just dont want the now motor to lean out on me and detonate.

Eyes Only

get a VFAC

a1320honda

what is a vfac going to do for me?

a1320honda

anyone else?

Jimmy

iTrader: (5)

Those bullshit gauges are so inaccurate...pretty much your just watching a light show.

Getting a VAFC will help you tune the amounts of fuel you get under certain rpms and it can be adjusted this will only help you if it is DYNO tuned...

sounds like you have alot of researching so go ahead and start right now.

a1320honda

ya, the only problem is, is we dont have a dyno within 400 miles. dont feel like driving 8 hours to get to a dyno.

BauleyCivic

get a warlboro 255lph fuel pump and bump up your fuel pressure with an FPR.

BTW...those autometer A/F gauges are known to be inaccurate

Jer

as long as you are not leaning out under WOT you are ok. actaully you are most likely running stronger if you are running in stoich than rich.

b16ahybrid

Thats normal. It's going to sweep back and forth esp when you let off the gas.
I highly doubt you running lean.
The afr Gauge won't stay in the rich at all times. It should be stoich while cruising around and under light load. It may go into the rich under full throttle. when decelerating it's going to go lean, or even off (no lights).
I have one in my car and it's about as useful as sticking my head up my tailpipe to determine how rich/lean my engine is running.
My car has been tuned on a dyno, and even under full throttle when my afr is 12.0:1 it reads lean half the time.

vtecb20coupe

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BauleyCivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get a warlboro 255lph fuel pump and bump up your fuel pressure with an FPR.

BTW...those autometer A/F gauges are known to be inaccurate</TD></TR></TABLE>

can i ask why he would need a 255 lph for a d15?

b16ahybrid

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtecb20coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

can i ask why he would need a 255 lph for a d15?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Because they require so much fuel.
My point exactly, no need for a v-afc or larger pump. If he's really worried about the inaccuracy of his gauge, get a fpr and bump the fuel pressure a few psi

BauleyCivic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtecb20coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
can i ask why he would need a 255 lph for a d15?</TD></TR></TABLE>

In case he'd ever wanna go forced induction or get a swap. Better to go overkill now instead of buy one later. The motor is only gonna be fed as much fuel as the ECU and injectors will let it.

b16ahybrid

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BauleyCivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

In case he'd ever wanna go forced induction or get a swap. Better to go overkill now instead of buy one later. .</TD></TR></TABLE>

May as well buy an intercooler too, just incase he plans to go turbo ...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BauleyCivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

. The motor is only gonna be fed as much fuel as the ECU and injectors will let it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

And with a 255lph fuel pump and a stock fpr your probably going to get more fuel then you need. For a stock engine.

Spoon Spec EK

The gauge is notoriously inaccurate and worthless.