mini-me problems part 2
#1
mini-me problems part 2
ok, last october i did a mini-me swap, it took forever to figure out how to get it running. turned out it was the injectors. anyways, it was running like total ****, it wouldn't hold idle or stay running ever so my friend fucked with it and just got it to do a high idle and i got tired of that **** and started tinkering with it trying to get it fixed, well now its dying again.
Whenever i come upto a light and put the clutch in to downshift or something, the revs dont slowly drop, they drop fast, and the car just dies. even when i am just sitting at the light, i have to constantly give it gas and have the e-brake pulled.
now sometimes it will idle fine around 900 or so. and when the car is first started it will idle at 1500 until warm. but 8 out of 10 times the car just dies.
i heard the timing was off by default of 4.75 degrees with mini-me's and my deck was milled 20 thousandths. the other day i retarded my timing by 1 tooth and that helped alittle but now when i hit vtec i hear this grinding noise so i cant rev past 5k
to let you know how ghetto rigged my car is, it has a dx throttle body, ex intake manifold, ex head, dx block, ex injectors, dx fuel rail, and an ex tranny. I am out of ideas of what is wrong and how i can fix it. i just took it down to autozone and they tested the battery and alternator and all was good. any suggestions? please help. thanks
UPDATE
VTEC grind fixed, i just put the timing back to stock.
I got an idea. ok, stock compression is 9.2:1? (i think) and my cars compression is at/around 10.7:1. would that throw off my fuel and ignition maps? maybe my car needs to be re-tuned? or would the car automatically adjust to the higher compression?
Modified by bmw626 at 1:59 PM 5/20/2006
Whenever i come upto a light and put the clutch in to downshift or something, the revs dont slowly drop, they drop fast, and the car just dies. even when i am just sitting at the light, i have to constantly give it gas and have the e-brake pulled.
now sometimes it will idle fine around 900 or so. and when the car is first started it will idle at 1500 until warm. but 8 out of 10 times the car just dies.
i heard the timing was off by default of 4.75 degrees with mini-me's and my deck was milled 20 thousandths. the other day i retarded my timing by 1 tooth and that helped alittle but now when i hit vtec i hear this grinding noise so i cant rev past 5k
to let you know how ghetto rigged my car is, it has a dx throttle body, ex intake manifold, ex head, dx block, ex injectors, dx fuel rail, and an ex tranny. I am out of ideas of what is wrong and how i can fix it. i just took it down to autozone and they tested the battery and alternator and all was good. any suggestions? please help. thanks
UPDATE
VTEC grind fixed, i just put the timing back to stock.
I got an idea. ok, stock compression is 9.2:1? (i think) and my cars compression is at/around 10.7:1. would that throw off my fuel and ignition maps? maybe my car needs to be re-tuned? or would the car automatically adjust to the higher compression?
Modified by bmw626 at 1:59 PM 5/20/2006
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#9
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Orlando, FL, USA
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Where did you get your ECU? You might have gotten a faulty one. Another thing would be that you have an auto instead of a 5spd ECU OR you got an OBD2 one from 96-00 EX's instead of the OBD1 one fromt 92-95 EX/SI's.
Also, it could be your ghetto rig setup. I would suggest you use <U>everything</U> from a d16z6 or better from the head to the throttle body.
Also, it could be your ghetto rig setup. I would suggest you use <U>everything</U> from a d16z6 or better from the head to the throttle body.
#10
Re: (ICEMAN707)
its the original ECU when the car was bought. its an EX but the dumb asses i got it off of said the original motor blew up or something and they dropped a dx motor in that ran like **** cuz the p28 with no vtec, so i swapped the head
#12
Honda-Tech Member
i would start with resetting the base timing and idle. sounds like maybe your buddy adjusted the throttle stop screw to begin with to get the idle up, it might have started backing itself off again.
#13
Re: (siregcivic)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by siregcivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">maybe low vacume.. i had a bad iacv and the car would die... replaced it and its fine</TD></TR></TABLE>
IACV replaced with newer one
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by schardbody »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would start with resetting the base timing and idle. sounds like maybe your buddy adjusted the throttle stop screw to begin with to get the idle up, it might have started backing itself off again. </TD></TR></TABLE>
timing was reset along with dizzy timing and i played with the timing 2 teeth both ways until i found what ran best
IACV replaced with newer one
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by schardbody »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would start with resetting the base timing and idle. sounds like maybe your buddy adjusted the throttle stop screw to begin with to get the idle up, it might have started backing itself off again. </TD></TR></TABLE>
timing was reset along with dizzy timing and i played with the timing 2 teeth both ways until i found what ran best
#15
Re: (BauleyCivic)
no cel's although last week i was late for work and driving and at a stop light i got a code but couldn't check it and when i got off work and drove home the code was gone so i couldn't check it
Modified by bmw626 at 2:02 PM 3/15/2006
Modified by bmw626 at 2:02 PM 3/15/2006
#16
Honda-Tech Member
maybe its your ECU?? go with a chipped p28 see what happens....also just get the idle and timing professional checked...unless you have a friend who knows his ****...
#17
Re: (bmoua)
i had the ecu checked by a friend that knows his **** and he said its perfectly fine. i also ran a jdm p08 and it ran alittle better but i had to give the ecu back cuz my friend needed it
#21
Re: (schardbody)
well tell that to the last three guys that looked at it, they said f it and told me to not hassle it and get a new motor, which i am getting and building for my turbo but in the mean time i need this bitch to run. and whats up with the grinding noise when i hit vtec? its never done that before. i tested it today and its something with the vtec cuz i had the car in neutral and revved to 6k and it was fine, but when i am driving and i get to about 5k it makes that noise and continues until i shift.
#25
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Join Date: Feb 2006
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I'm thinking the distributor might be bad. I'm just finding that my CYP sensor is bad, my distributor has been bad for a while, and the CEL just started reporting it (I guess it has gone from bad to worse). Also, I'm not really sure the difference between the td41u (d15b7 distrib) and the td42u (d16z6 distrib).
I think the td42u works fine with the d15b7 (I'll be getting one for mine), but I'm not sure about the other way around.
I think the td42u works fine with the d15b7 (I'll be getting one for mine), but I'm not sure about the other way around.