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Manual rack will probably need a new U-joint and something will need to be done for the passenger side bushing.
As with everything else I do, I haven't fully decided which route to take. For ease of the swap, I might just go back with a power rack and loop the lines... or buy one of those really snazzy Chase Bay PS delete kits.
Freedo, I received the radiator yesterday, looks awesome, thanks so much (again)! I also received my "new" cat from Ebay. The description stated that it was "rusty throughout", but the **** looks pretty much new to me. Not bad, $45 shipped for something that costs aroud $180 new. The radiator and cat are on the list for this weekend! My daughter "accidentally" gave away the surprise for my birthday present. A new Momo steering wheel to replace the worn-out one in the car.
Today was yet another project day. I replaced the ridiculous radiator with the Yonaka that Freedo sent me, thanks again for that! I installed my new cat and finally fixed my exhaust leak! Once I got it started I burped the cooling system and replaced my heater blower. This thing is coming together!
On another note, I just put in for a construction permit on my future 36x40 shop. Hopefully sometime in June this thing will be finished and I won’t have to roll around in the floor anymore!
I’ll be sure to make an appearance in the GDD Home Improvement thread once construction is underway. Stay tuned.
They worked perfectly! At first, it looked like it was sitting a little high and I was worried about clearance issues, but the top bracket lines up perfectly and she's all good! While I was working on the radiator, the UPS man showed up with my PowerStop rotors, coated Duralast rotors and ceramic pads, so I went ahead and started working on those. Got her all bled and went for an hour-long cruise down to the waterfront. Actually, I ran her hard a few times and I must say, for a little B20, she's got some pep! I can't imagine what she'll feel like with a GSR trans.
I've been working a ****-ton lately, so I haven't had much time to spend on the car. However, I did manage to refinish my VC newly-acquired Rota Slips (photos below). I tried the Rustoleum wrinkle-finish paint and I'm happy with the way it turned out, although it took 3 days to fully dry and it technically still needs to cure. Running the engine should work just fine as "curing". I also installed my new Energy shifter bushings and OEM shift rod boot.
On another note, I decided to break the coil-overs loose and raise the car about a 1/2" and then fine tune from there. The fronts were a bitch to break loose but finally submitted. The rears, on the other hand, are locked (what they call) "the ****" up. I soaked them in penetrating oil for 3 days, and tried to break them loose almost every day. I even tried a punch with a 3 lb hammer (no luck) and finally removed them from the car, stuck them in my vise and gave them hell with a 24" pipe wrench. Nothing but lifting my work bench off the ground. I really don't want to have to replace them... I brought them to work with me this morning. If I can't get them loose with the tools we have on hand here, they're fucked anyways.
Nice job on both the valve cover and wheels. Not sure I'd have the patience to refinish the wheels like that.
Honestly, its oddly therapeutic. I refinished the SI wheels that I'm now running on my EK and I always felt like I could have done a better job. So I made it a point this time to really try and make them as good as possible. I think I did okay; some blemishes aren't worth the work to correct. I think these will look great at about 10'. And really, besides the half-***'d paint job, they weren't in bad shape; barely any rash and a slight bend on the inside of one that was pretty easily "made better". I'll be sure to post some photos once the wheels are on the car (WHEN I CAN FINALLY BREAK THESE DAMN COILOVERS LOOSE).
Honestly, its oddly therapeutic. I refinished the SI wheels that I'm now running on my EK and I always felt like I could have done a better job. So I made it a point this time to really try and make them as good as possible. I think I did okay; some blemishes aren't worth the work to correct. I think these will look great at about 10'. And really, besides the half-***'d paint job, they weren't in bad shape; barely any rash and a slight bend on the inside of one that was pretty easily "made better". I'll be sure to post some photos once the wheels are on the car (WHEN I CAN FINALLY BREAK THESE DAMN COILOVERS LOOSE).
I hear ya. I spent countless hours cleaning my engine bay while I was assembling my engine. I'm hoping to just buy a new set of slips next year, but if I find a deal on some I may buy them and try refinishing them. Of course I don't want them to look so good that I then feel it's time to re-paint the car, haha.
I hear ya. I spent countless hours cleaning my engine bay while I was assembling my engine. I'm hoping to just buy a new set of slips next year, but if I find a deal on some I may buy them and try refinishing them. Of course I don't want them to look so good that I then feel it's time to re-paint the car, haha.
That's where I'll probably be once I get the car back on the ground. The car needs paint pretty badly, but the wheels will blind you haha #priorities
I tried my damndest to get the rear coilovers to break free at work yesterday, but I decided I would rather deal with the shitty ride for a while and replace them sometime in the future. If I kept ******* with them, I was afraid I was going to ruin them and have to drop a grand + right now. The locking collars are chewed up, along with the shock bodies.
After I reinstalled the fronts, I'm getting a weird clunk in the left front, so I need to investigate that further. Last night I took her on about a half hour cruise to make sure all was well. No leaks from the VC, slightly better ride than what I had with the stretched combo. I even ran her hard a few times on the twisties near my house. What a fun car to drive.
Next project is a trip to PickaPart for interior pieces and hopefully a rear disk trailing arm setup.
a high compression b20 will always bring a smile on them twisties. Your gsr tranny will make it even better.
Try some wd-40 or kroil sprayed on the coilover collars, just let it soak before attempting to spin the ring with a BF ring plier or oil filter plier. You don't want to use big vise grips as the collar is just alluminum and could warp if theres too much pressure.
a high compression b20 will always bring a smile on them twisties. Your gsr tranny will make it even better.
Try some wd-40 or kroil sprayed on the coilover collars, just let it soak before attempting to spin the ring with a BF ring plier or oil filter plier. You don't want to use big vise grips as the collar is just alluminum and could warp if theres too much pressure.
I tried all that, unfortunately. I even left both coilovers in my bench vise for two days, upside down with the bottom cavity filled with Kroil. I was hoping the Kroil would work its way down through the threads. But nope, she's locked the **** up. It looks like the threaded portion threads down into the bottom fork-portion about 2". And it was solid rust... Oh well... on to the next project.
Sorry, Freedo, I never saw your comment! Something is up with my subscriptions lately...
Man, I sure let this thread go to waste...
The only real updates I have for this car as as follows:
So basically, the car has been sitting quite a bit lately, waiting for the shop to be complete. I do my best to let it run at least once a week, but of course sometimes that doesn't happen. The battery has discharged, and I'm thinking there is a power draw from the alarm. This is a Viper alarm, and I've never been very interested in alarms or remote starts. Should it be a pretty straight-forward process to remove the alarm?
I found a cheap DC2 rear disk setup, and I've installed new trailing arm bushings in it. Once I get some spare time, I'm going to order a matching Powerstop setup like the front. Basically, the car needs all new suspension and a new steering rack. I'm not 100% sure whether I should keep a power setup (but loop the lines) or go with a manual rack and subframe. What I have now is a terribly worn power rack with capped lines. The car is rather difficult to steer (and not the normal "difficulty" I've experienced with manual steering. The rack is shot.), but still fun to drive.
I still need to hit PickaPart for an LS speed sensor so I have a functioning speedo. Last time I was there, I saw an LS Integra that was still largely intact. I decided to wait on the speed sensor and went to find some other parts off EG's. When I came back, a guy was elbow deep in the Integra and I watched him pull out MY speed sensor. Unfortunately, there were no other intact manual integras there that day. Oh well.
Anyways, once the shop is complete and I've finished my stupid-busy Fall work schedule (10-12hr shifts until November), I'll order the lift and get started on the car.
05-02-2019, 04:05 AM
Re: LiteraCola's B20-swapped 92 CX Hatch Build/Refresh Thread
