Freedo_Civegra

I might have the rubber grommets, too.

LiteraCola

You read my mind. That will work too!

LiteraCola

Anyways, now that that is resolved, my plan this afternoon is to remove the wheels and thoroughly clean them (and post them for trade). I'm thinking some Rota Slips or something similar; I'm a big fan of the 5 spoke look. Any suggestions are welcome. I also need to install my new wheel stud on the right front and then hopefully my new lug nuts will arrive today! The other night I resprayed the center console pieces so I'll try and get some photos when I get home.

Freedo_Civegra

Going to handle this right now.

Freedo_Civegra

New connector installed

DaX

iTrader: (1)

Not sure what you mean with the mounting of the fan. He sells a shroud that bolts to the radiator separate from the radiator - it looks a lot like the one Freedo posted. Greg builds these radiators and shrouds, so if you want something customized, he can probably do it. He's got a 2-core and 3-core version of the 1/2 width radiator for both B-series and D-series on the website.

I'm a fan of the Spoon 5-spoke look too. I'll probably do Rota Slips for my car eventually as well.

Freedo_Civegra

Well, lookie here...

2x0

I think either polished or black slips would look good.

LiteraCola

UPDATE! I got home to see my new pan gasket, header gasket, rear glass hardware and assorted clips and grommets sitting on the porch! I decided to put the car in the garage, get the wheels and tires deep-cleaned and posted up (more on that later). I pulled the right front caliper and rotor to install my new wheel studs. I found that the pads are gone and the calipers are locked up tight. I may rebuild them instead of replace them... Add it to the list!

I pulled the header and found that the down pipe to test pipe flange had one bolt and it was barely snug (I noticed that one was missing the day I looked at the car, but figured the other was tight). The header and oil pan came off with no issues, luckily. The gasket was rock-hard and although I got most of it off, I brought it to work today to remove the rest of the gasket, put the pan in the parts washer and respray it.

I didn't find the missing dipstick piece in the pan, nor the pickup tube. BUT when I pulled the old oil filter out, I noticed that the oil pressure sensor on the back of the black was disconnected. So I guess the issue wasn't real, as in, no blocked pickup. The 1 pin connector fits loosely, so I may have to squeeze it a little bit for good measure.

My wife crudely stitched the huge rip on the driver seat, so hopefully that will cut down on the yellow foam dust, at least until I can source some decent seats.

Now, onto the matter of my wheels. Within a half hour of posting them on the VA Honda Parts FB page, I had about 20 PMs. NOT ONE PERSON READ THE ******* AD! I clearly stated that the wheels were for trade only, and that I was looking for Rota Slips or something similar. I was offered $300 cash, an XBox and even "one black regular", whatever TF that is. I finally received a PM from a guy about 3 hours away with polished slips and new tires. Conveniently, I'm working all weekend and probably next weekend too, so there's no chance I'll be able to get down there any time soon. Outage season is a bitch... Hopefully he still has them in a week or two, and I'll be able to meet him to swap tires.

Overall, a decently successful night. Tonight's plan is to reinstall the pan and header, oil her up and give her a start! Also, I'll be testing the VSS. My speedometer reads like 110mph, and then jumps to 90, and then back to normal speed. (#becauseracecar)

tony_2018

Looks good.

Freedo_Civegra

I have some GSR seats with Civic rails attached. PM me if you want to...







































...and I’ll tell you they’re not for sale. Lol

93grayeg

iTrader: (1)

Nice work so far

DaX

iTrader: (1)

Damn, that's cold!

tony_2018

banned

LiteraCola

Well, I worked all weekend but I was able to get the oil pan stripped, repainted and installed. I put the exhaust back together and fired her up. All good, as far as I can tell! I wasn't able to seal up the exhaust leak on the test pipe flange (all I did was smear some Honda-Bond on the old doughnut gasket and install new bolts/springs). I have a cat and gaskets coming so that leak will be fixed by next weekend. While torquing the lug nuts, I realized that the left rear trailing arm bushing is shot. When I pulled on the torque wrench, the whole wheel and suspension flexed about 2" front to back. So the bushing is totally gone. I also noticed that the right rear wheel bearing is on its way out. While she was down I installed the hood prop grommet and keeper (huge pet peeve of mine), replaced the rear glass struts and attempted to adjust the glass so it would close tighter (it didn't work out like I'd hoped). Also bled the clutch while the header was out of the way (impossible to do with the header in place).

So my ultimate plan for this car's brakes and suspension is to grab a rear disk swap, then refresh the suspension and adjust the ride height up a little bit. My current factory brakes are shot; the bleeders are broken off on the rear and the fronts are seized to the point where I'll break them if I try any harder to bleed whats there. The rear drums are pretty much inoperable, and coupled with worn out front pads and calipers that won't budge, I'm to the point of deciding whether I should rebuild what's there or just trash it all and start over with a rear disk swap right now...

Current List of Issues (besides cosmetics & body) in no particular order:
Install cat and seal up leak
Test (and maybe replace) VSS. Speedo is all over the place
Total brake overhaul front and rear
Rear wheel bearings
Disassemble and refresh suspension
Missing multiple random interior pieces
Replace stiff mounts with something a little more forgiving

Cosmetic Stuff:
Deep clean engine bay
Strip and repaint valve cover, random interior pieces and side skirts/moldings
New amber corners (one of the tabs is broken on the driver side so dude drove a wood screw through the lens)
LED conversion?


Question: As far as engine mounts goes....I know how new stock mounts feel, I know how Yonaka mounts feel (VIBRATION, but I've never felt a good, quality aftermarket mount. How would the softest Innovative (60A maybe?) feel compared to say, cheap *** stiff mounts?

2x0

Go with Hasport and never look back. 62A "street" urethane will be much firmer than stock, but it's the best quality you can get imo.

LiteraCola

But will they vibrate every inch of the car? That's what I don't want. When the starter engages and I feel the interior falling down around me, that's a problem...

I've gotten to the age of not wanting a car that rattles haha

2x0

Idk, to me it's only noticeable at first, then you get used to it. Interior rattles can be fixed. I'll take less engine movement over less vibration any day, especially for a track build.

If you want it soft and squishy, gotta go with OEM rubber mounts.

LiteraCola

I might just do that for now. And then later on if I actually decide to make this a dedicated track car, I'll go hard (teehee).

LiteraCola

Good morning/lunch time, guys! I decided yesterday to drive the hatch to work, and again today! Besides the bouncy ride, exhaust leak and solid mounts, I'm liking it so far! My newly-refinished and reinstalled oil pan isn't leaking at all. I have found, though, that every time I look at it or drive it, I notice another thing that needs repair. I found yesterday morning that the heater blower is totally inoperable, which made my 5:30 am commute on a humid morning quite interesting. The steering is terribly loose and off-center. I got looking at the steering rack and noticed something interesting... Based on the VIN, this is a 92 CDM CX, originally equipped with the D15B8 and manual steering. Look at the photo below... does that or does that not look like a power rack and pinion? The lines are capped and the "recirc lines" that stretch from one end to the other are still intact. When I had the car up on stands and turned the wheels by hand, the mechanism sounded really rough. That, along with the looseness, has led me to believe that the rack is worn out and ready to be replaced. My only guess is that one previous owner swapped the manual rack for a power system, and then the next guy stripped the system but left the power rack. I'm gonna start calling this car "Frankenstein".

*Pardon the zip-tie holding the O2 sensor wiring. I had to get it away from the exhaust and axle, seemed like a decent solution.*

tony_2018

Well, might as well put in p/s.

LiteraCola

But I don’t wanna! I think I’m going to start looking into a new manual rack and trashing this worn-out power rack.

Add it to the list!

Freedo_Civegra

You ought to have a radiator waiting for you.

Zip ties for life, mang.

tony_2018

prepare yourself for the unexpected

Freedo_Civegra

Manual rack will probably need a new U-joint and something will need to be done for the passenger side bushing.