saemoonyang

iTrader: (1)

Ok im running on a built lsvtec and today I noticed a knocking/tapping sound coming from my frontend, and doing 60mph at 35k and trying to go any faster brings the knocking/tapping sound and just keeps doing it if I try to go any faster, also feels like the car has no power at all after 60mph. It also does this on every gear but when its on idle the engine sounds fine, idle fines, rpm stays normal everything normal. So I kept it at 60mph and thought maybe it was an loose axle drove it home and axle seems fine, checked my oil and noticed I was 2qrts short.
So now I refilled it and took it for a test drive and the knocking/tapping sound is still there.

I'm fairly new to building a engine since this car was purchased like this.

I am also worry since this is my only car that I use to go to work and do everything else.

I hear that it could be my rods, or my head might have bent valves and probably needs new valves.

I want to pinpoint this down so im not spending money to fix something that is not the problem.

Thanks Honda-tech!

98y8

Well you need to tell us exactly where the noise is coming from, does it sound like the top of the engine or bottom? Because a rod will make a knocking noise but a valve will make a tapping sound.

saemoonyang

iTrader: (1)

I was listening to the engine while it was running and revved it a little and heard a loud knock sound and seems like its coming from my head. It happened too fast I couldnt really pinpoint exactly where it came from.

RangersFC

boom! sounds the exact same as mine before i found out it was blown!
this just gives you the need to go bigger and better!

saemoonyang

iTrader: (1)

Well for example if the head is bad cant I just replaced it? or vice versa if the block is bad.

Any how I'm bringing in to a shop to have them check it out and ill update the results.

lsvtecEM1

dude i am having the exact same problem jus dropped my lsvtec in and i have no clue what it is, i jus ripped it apart and rebuilt it thinkin it was the bottom end but nope i even had a shop put it together same knock, i took the valve cover off and started it and the head is definantly knockin decent, if anyone has the answer to this id like to know also

brutekiller787

i'm getting the same thing but from my d16. i am thinking it's a rod that's gone so i'm just replacing the engine, unfortunately

lsvtecEM1

well i kno its not the rod its def a head issue i jus dont know what the hells wrong lol

4dohs4mohoes

Have you checked the torque on the head studs/bolts. Possilbe the head could be lifting off the block, which would cause loss of power and some noise.

Also inspect the cams under the caps for scoring, or look for metal flakes.

Are there any fluid leaks? The oil has got to be going somewhere. Also inspect the coolant condition. Look for it to be milky. Also pull the dipstick and check for tiny air bubbles in the oil. or traces of coolant.

saemoonyang

iTrader: (1)

I listened to the sound and its actually more of a metal to metal sound/rattling instead of a knock.

Im thinking it could be my axle going bad since it only wants to make the noise when im accelerating.

If I just give it enough gas to gain speed nothing happens but if I give it more gas it would then make the rattling sound consistently until I raise the gas pedal.

Im going to jack the car up tomorrow and Ill update the problem.

Crash6066

did you try re adjusting the valves? i had a knocking noise in my mini-me and to find out it was a the ladder of timing belt of and it was detnating wrong and the valves were off

Crash6066

now as we all know the LS internals are not ment for anything faster than 7k so honestly if its a metal to metal sound and its knocking it could be a bent rod. as far as a tapping noise thats the valves and they could be bent or in need of adjusting

saemoonyang

iTrader: (1)

But then shouldnt it still make the noise while at idle also?

It drives fine drove it 40miles to get it home and no problem.

Crash6066

well at low idle there isnt any stress on the rods and so at low rpms you wont hear it very much. and thats if its the rods if its tapping and you always hear it its the valves. it depends on the cars load. now if there is a load on the motor like when u reved it up while u were listening it could also be that your timing could be off. so double check that too.

saemoonyang

iTrader: (1)

changed the oil and didnt find any metal particles in my oil or on my magnetic drain plug. Oil was normal.

Also my tranny is missing the cover so I can see my flywheel and there seem to be a good amount of oil around that area.

Can this be my clutch making the rattling sound?

anyway im bringing it in to the shop and have them drive it while we look underneath maybe we can detect where the sound is coming from.

As of now I doult its my block or any intern, cross my fingers.

saemoonyang

iTrader: (1)

found the problem, its one of my valves on the intake side that was making that sound.


Any good upgrade valves for high compression on a mildly built lsvtec with ctr internals?

thanks for all the inputs.

RICKSAUTOMOTIVE

are you saying it only does it when youre driving? if so its a trans or axle issue. if you rev it up while its idling and you hear no knocking then the motor is good. if you rev it and it knocks then its a motor problem more info is required

saemoonyang

iTrader: (1)

yea we reved it by the throttle consistently and you would hear the knock right under the head towards the intake side and it would happen maybe 1 out of 3 tries. Also I noticed that it makes a louder ticking sound then before.

Any ideas what valves to replace or just stock ones?

I heard itr are lighter and helps with rpm.

Just need something that would last since its my daily.

thanks

RICKSAUTOMOTIVE

dont upgrade the valves. it wont make a notable difference even if they are lighter. you would need to do the cam shafts, valve sprigs, retainers, and more to see any difference. i would pull the engine and truely find the issue. pull the head off and also pull the oil pan and crankshaft out. check that you dont have a spun rod bearing of main bearing. also since the head is off take it for a valve job. also have them replace the valve guides with new ones. better to fix it now the right way.

saemoonyang

iTrader: (1)

thanks for the advice but I really need to get this thing running, getting it freshly rebuilt is not really an option as of now since this is my only car to commute.

During the oil changed i didnt noticed any metal shaving in my oil or on my magnetic drain plug at all.

I work everyday and barely have time to look at my car, but tomorrow im going to take off the valve cover and check my valvetrain and valves for any lashes.

My buddy and I are pretty confident its a bent valve or somewhere in the head.

He also said that my block is fine after removing the breather from the valve cover and had his hands over it and reved the motor and he said if the engine sucks in air while reving and blows out air when its idling then the block is still good.

RICKSAUTOMOTIVE

thats one way. its a start at least. hopefully any metal was collected in the old oil filter. did you cut the housing off and check? yes there is actually a tool for that but its basically a large pipe/tubing cutter. i have wanted one for a long time but have not ordered one yet. i do see your issue with the cost of a rebuild but at this piont its hard to diagnos a sound without actually hearing it. even if its a bent valve it will cost a few hundred to fix it the right way. but cheaper than a rebuild

saemoonyang

iTrader: (1)

you mean cut my oil filter in half to check for metal shaving?

RICKSAUTOMOTIVE

yes. but if you use a sawzall or a cut-off wheel it will leave metal shavings in the filter. you want to use a tubing cutter type of tool. the cutting wheels will not leave metal shavings. it wouldnt hurt to check

saemoonyang

iTrader: (1)

After a long 4 hour of taking out the head, the valve looked to be fine.

I also did the water leaked down test and did noticed cyl.3 exahust side was slowly dripping water though all the other cyl. did not leak at all.

Is this normal for just a small drip?

saemoonyang

iTrader: (1)

I think I went ahead of myself for taking off the head too soon.

I did some more search about similiar problems as mine and found some very interesting things that I should of checked before pulling the head out ARRGGGHHH..

Things that can cause marble sound in engine or shaking during acceleration during the search:

sparkplugs and sparkplug wires: When I was removing the sparkplug wires noticed they werent snugged also when removing sparkplug no. 2 and 3 they were loose and sparkplug no. 2 3 4 are very black at the end.

Crankpulley if not allign. found the article in hondatech: My crankpulley went loose on me once when the bolt somehow came loose and I couldnt really tighten it cause it kept turning so I just torqed it back on with my air gun.

Overheating causing detonation: Found an article about engine low on coolant and overheating causing engine to detonation to cause engine shake: My stock temp gauge is weird, it likes to jump from cool to hot ramdomly and would come back to normal and its been doing this for about 2 years so I didnt think anything about it, and also after letting the car sat for 2 months the check engine light came on wasnt really sure why. It wasnt on before it went to hybernation.

After thinking about it I realize that my valves arent bent, cycl.3 had a small leak which im not convince that its the problem. I should of checked small things first.

Sorry for the long post im so stressed out and paranoid at the moment, going insane to.

Can bad LMA cause engine to shake?