junmotor

Hey fellow civic owners,
There is a JUN motor on Ebay....a B series motor!
It has 210hp@wheels. My eg with only 200@wheels ran a 12.6!
Imaging that a mid-low 12 with and all motor street car. That would be the ultimate setup. And its not some hacked together frankenstien or temp motor. This thing is a JUN motor. The same used in the Super Street cars!
Check it out: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cg...088630&r=0&t=0

DragII

you can get 200 @ the wheels w/ a DRAG Gen III turbo kit for less than half the price.

B_CRUZ!

yeah but with the drag set-up you would still only run high 13's. ALL MOTOR vs. Fi with the same horse power... the ALL MOTOR one will 99% all ways win. its because of the power band of the Fi car. with turbo it spikes hard at a certain rpm but with all motor its the power band is increasing at a steady rate as the RPM goes up.

just my $0.02

jinxproof99

your insane.

EG8R

Hehe being insane is ok though

ppihctyper

For those who replied previously:
Yes you can purchase a drag kit for 1/2 price however consider this:
You will have one motor w/ a turbo.
Whereas this is a seprate motor allowing you to:
1. sell the original and put toward purchase price.
2. have two set-up
sometimes people forget this.
Also turbo is heavier and will be more likely to fail in real-world situations.
Also the JUN motor was programed by JUN to run on pump gas.

TheShad0w

damn man you can buy all the jun components and install them yourself cheaper than 7 g's

DragII

then you obviously don't know much about tuning.....


bottom line is that if you are making big horsepower..na or turbo...you will begin to break ****....think All motor is so reliable...go ask JG Luder how long his "fully built allmotor honda" has actually been out of the shop compared to in it.

SIINSI

IMO it is not really an opinion but more of a fact that NA is more reliable that FI. All the FI guys I talk to at the track admit this and it is common knowledge. It's just my opinuion but I don't even see grounds for a debate.

Migs gave his reasons. What are some reasons a turbo is more reliable than an NA motor?

No flames here, I'm just the need proof kinda guy

Miguel

Noize

DragII, why are you being condescending? An FI Honda and a road race with duration don't really get along too well. I'll take clean all motor curve that has drivability and longevity any day over an FI motor. Its easier to have all motor safety nets than to pull over while your FI Honda cools so you can resume racing.

DragII

The point is that Saying all motor is more reliable than turbo is completely false...not a matter of opinion. People need to be aware that, such is mis information.

as for road race. that is true.

maxim

FACT: A FI honda can be just as reliable as a NA one, it all depends on proper fuel delivery. Sure FI Hondas take a bit more maintenance than an All Motor, but then again you have more equipment to look out for(does not necessarily mean anything is broken). It all boils down to the owner and how maticulous he/she is. Speed should not be an issue because you can add more fuel and do some internal reinforcement to raise boost, in turn increasing hp/tq and lowering et's.

Halo

Hey man why are you posting in every forum you dork That price is insane! Someone can build a Crvtec for $4k and smoke you all day

spyder

It ALSO depends on how you drive the car. If you drive like an idiot and smash into the rev-limiter and **** like that, then sure, the turbo motor will blow first. If you actually use half a brain cell in your driving and keep up on maintenance, there is no reason why a turbo engine shouldn't last as long as allmotor.

ppihctyper

Jun actually has a database for their crate motors. And the vin will match.
For those of you that feel the motor is not worth the money that is fine. That is why it's in an AUCTION so that the buyer may determine what it is worth to him. And for the record the motor does have a retail price from JUN for 14k. That does not mean it is worth that amount. In fact I believe their price is a bit ridiculious. For those that want to purchase a new JUN motor the route to go is to set-up an account w/ JUN and become a dealer. A dealer may buy the motor for 10k. That is the story.

Again if you feel the motor is not worth the amount. Yes you can build a motor with equal power for same or less finances. However, this motor is built, proven and has the JUN Name behind it. Are ferrari's or porsches worth the price? It is purely subjective. If you can afford, of course. And you can build a civic or integra that can smoke it. But then again you aren't driving a ferrari or porsche. Same with the motor.

DragII

BFD

Themillman

How come it says comptech on the oil cap? For 4000 you would think they would have a JUN oil cap

Finest

Here's a few insights.

With forced induction, you can set your boost to low-moderate levels and drive it daily. With a flick of a switch, like at a stoplight race, you can switch to a higher boost setting. By doing this, you won't have to drive around smoking the tires in every gear with such higher boost levels. And you'll save your motor from thermal/mechanical stress from driving around with 20+ psi. Save your gas and drive around with 9 psi.

On the otherhand, a 210whp all-motor setup is probably running 11.5 or 12:1 CR. That's pushing the limits with pump gas. And not to mention that this would wear and tear a motor down, no matter how well maintained it is. Think about it. The engine is running with a constant level of stress. This will wear an engine down more quickly than an FI setup who drags every one or two weekends a month.

People talk about reliability issues from running a turbo. Sure there are a lot of details that need to be addressed on a regular basis. But the POTENTIAL from FI far outweighs any benefit from an all-motor setup, no matter who builds the engine JUN or Mugen or whatever. The most I've seen an all-motor engine go is around 260whp. That's the avg gain from a properly tuned FI application.

Reliability is in the hand of the tuner. Period.

DragII

Well said

DR. ON POINT

that motor is cheap..i have an aquantince that has a eg with a crv vtec that has 215 at the wheels he is selling for 6500..put it in his hb and ran a 12.02 all motor, no back seats spare or jack...thats fast

B_CRUZ!

**The most I've seen an all-motor engine go is around 260whp. That's the avg gain from a properly tuned FI application.**

thats the average gain for a properly tuned FI. but like i said earlier. if you have a all motor car VS. an FI car. and the horse power of the two are similar, the all motor one 99% of the time wins. i have seen many turbo integs/civics at the street races that get smoked by gs-r's and gs-r civics that are mildly built. i have also seen many 13-14 second DRAG1, 2, and 3 cars out on the strip. when i ask them how much they spent they say upwards of 4 grand. which is ridiculous.

DragII

eg6_LHD: I disagree w/ nearly everything you said.

Halo

well said, but just because you have a higher cr ratio doesn't imply that you wear down your motor. If you build the motor to handle the higher cr then the motor will last just as long as any other motor. If you slap some 12:5:1 pistons and that's it.....then yes your motor will blow

Finest

Having a higher CR means you're putting the air/fuel mixture under EXTREME compression. That extra thermal heat and mechanical stress will wear an engine down, no matter what sleeves/pistons you're running. The quality of these parts just means it'll hold up to it alot better than the stock parts.

My point is that you can't reduce this level of stress without losing HP. That CONSTANT level of stress will eventually find the weak points of an engine. Especially if it's driven daily.

But with FI, you can turn down the boost and reduce the wear and tear from high boost levels. The advantage is that you can control and tune the level of performance w/o sacrificing anything. With a high CR all-motor setup, you HAVE to run at 12:1 CR with a big lumpy cam that idles rough, and rev it to 8500+rpms to make the peak numbers. Get a tank of bad gas and you're pretty much screwed.

TurboMiata

Until you have proof, stop saying dumb things like "N/A motors are more reliable at the same HP level than turbo motors

Come on, do you *really* think a 200 wheel HP B16 is as reliable as a dragIII'ed B16 producing the same?? One is basically a custom motor (the N/A) and the other is just a stock motor running low boost which the engine can handle. Besides, nothing is really reliable when you start doubling the factory output.