JDM D16A (D16Y5) swap into 98 hatch tweaks needed
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JDM D16A (D16Y5) swap into 98 hatch tweaks needed
This month, I swapped my blown Y7 with a JDM D16A (97?) from a reputable import source. They assured me that it was compatible with a Y8 setup. Seems like a D16y5. If I had a Y8, this “direct replacement” would be no problem……
Any tips or tweaks on ECUs, VAFC, controllers, etc?
My daily is a 98 DX hatch, Y7 auto, OBD2 P2P (auto). I am not interested in racing or red-lining, but I wouldn’t mind the potential power. It would be nice to get optimal settings, but close enough would suffice.
The swap went well and the car runs like the Y7, but I am sure that my fuel maps are not optimized for this engine. I would also like to have the lower VTEC engagement points vs. 4500+. Occasionally, I get a lean condition (P0170 trouble and P0170 pending).
I have been scouring the forums till my head hurts, and find mixed results. I am sure that I will eventually stumble across the info, but I hope that I could benefit from someone’s R&D. Driving around with my Autoxray to clear codes may be detrimental!
Any wisdom is greatly appreciated.
D16A stamp
http://i153.photobucket.com/al...p.jpg
Modified by rush2112 at 9:12 AM 1/27/2008
Modified by rush2112 at 11:02 AM 1/27/2008
Modified by rush2112 at 11:03 AM 1/27/2008
Any tips or tweaks on ECUs, VAFC, controllers, etc?
My daily is a 98 DX hatch, Y7 auto, OBD2 P2P (auto). I am not interested in racing or red-lining, but I wouldn’t mind the potential power. It would be nice to get optimal settings, but close enough would suffice.
The swap went well and the car runs like the Y7, but I am sure that my fuel maps are not optimized for this engine. I would also like to have the lower VTEC engagement points vs. 4500+. Occasionally, I get a lean condition (P0170 trouble and P0170 pending).
I have been scouring the forums till my head hurts, and find mixed results. I am sure that I will eventually stumble across the info, but I hope that I could benefit from someone’s R&D. Driving around with my Autoxray to clear codes may be detrimental!
Any wisdom is greatly appreciated.
D16A stamp
http://i153.photobucket.com/al...p.jpg
Modified by rush2112 at 9:12 AM 1/27/2008
Modified by rush2112 at 11:02 AM 1/27/2008
Modified by rush2112 at 11:03 AM 1/27/2008
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Kauai, HI
Posts: 8
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From what I have gleened, OBD2 ECUs can’t be hacked, autos are worse, or that an OBD1 may work – maybe manual? Swap the valve train? Piggyback? USDM HX ECUs only come in manual and CVT. My head and IM castings are P2J-xxx.
Where I’m at, I don’t have access to a dyno, and all the tuners are too busy for SOHC. I did the swap myself and cudos to my wife for lifting the engine on her back. I don’t mind doing the work myself to save some $$$, but information here is mostly word-of-mouth, and sometimes, hard to get any help.
I don’t want to spend big bucks, but I will do what needs to be done to make the car happy. I believe the advantages of the Y5 over the Y8. I prefer to stay Auto, and I don’t want to go through another swap.
Options in order of preference:
OBD2 ECU for auto w/ optimized mapping – how?
OBD1 ECU for auto w/ optimized mapping – how?
Some kind of controller…..
Y8 valve train w/ P2P
Y8 manual trans, HX manual ECU?, pedal swap, cylinders, etc (don’t want to do)
Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
************* Swap notes *************
Mostly plug and play. P2E/P2P swap, Removed EGR, grounded the VTS (no switch which I’m still working on), added the knock sensor, fuel line switcharoos. No CELs other than periodic lean conditions.
From what I have seen on head codes, P2J is NZ? Any correlation to the ECU?
http://i153.photobucket.com/al...6.jpg
intake manifold castings
http://i153.photobucket.com/al...2.jpg
http://i153.photobucket.com/al...6.jpg
Y8 fuel rail w/ Y7 fuel line
http://i153.photobucket.com/al...r.jpg
Where I’m at, I don’t have access to a dyno, and all the tuners are too busy for SOHC. I did the swap myself and cudos to my wife for lifting the engine on her back. I don’t mind doing the work myself to save some $$$, but information here is mostly word-of-mouth, and sometimes, hard to get any help.
I don’t want to spend big bucks, but I will do what needs to be done to make the car happy. I believe the advantages of the Y5 over the Y8. I prefer to stay Auto, and I don’t want to go through another swap.
Options in order of preference:
OBD2 ECU for auto w/ optimized mapping – how?
OBD1 ECU for auto w/ optimized mapping – how?
Some kind of controller…..
Y8 valve train w/ P2P
Y8 manual trans, HX manual ECU?, pedal swap, cylinders, etc (don’t want to do)
Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
************* Swap notes *************
Mostly plug and play. P2E/P2P swap, Removed EGR, grounded the VTS (no switch which I’m still working on), added the knock sensor, fuel line switcharoos. No CELs other than periodic lean conditions.
From what I have seen on head codes, P2J is NZ? Any correlation to the ECU?
http://i153.photobucket.com/al...6.jpg
intake manifold castings
http://i153.photobucket.com/al...2.jpg
http://i153.photobucket.com/al...6.jpg
Y8 fuel rail w/ Y7 fuel line
http://i153.photobucket.com/al...r.jpg
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