JDM D15B tuneup questions
07-28-2008, 04:42 PM
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JDM D15B tuneup questions
I just bought a 95 coupe EX and I thought it had the 1.6 vtec ( using VIN Code)and was checking the block and found I had a D15B block ( I think is JDM) and a P08-6 vtec head. The best I have found that the head is the same as a D16Z6 ( not sure) What spark plugs, wire set and timing should I use? Any other info would be GREATLY appreciated.
07-28-2008, 09:31 PM
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sounds like a mini me doesn't sound right for the set up i think they ripped you it should be a d16z6 with a p28 ecu instead of a d15b7 or so block
07-28-2008, 10:14 PM
#5
Re: JDM D15B tuneup questions (worlds-slowest-EG)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by worlds-slowest-EG »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">any d series wires (they're all pretty much the same)</TD></TR></TABLE>
i you sure... i cant remember 110% but we had 2 civics with SOHC's at my house are one point... a d15b7 and a z6, im pretty sure the wires couldnt be swapped between them... i could possibly be wrong tho. cant remember for sure.
i you sure... i cant remember 110% but we had 2 civics with SOHC's at my house are one point... a d15b7 and a z6, im pretty sure the wires couldnt be swapped between them... i could possibly be wrong tho. cant remember for sure.
07-28-2008, 10:29 PM
#6
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Re: JDM D15B tuneup questions (taztwnpa)
If its the JDM D15B you need to time it like a z6. 16* . As far as spark plugs look at your camgear cover it should sa it there. If I recall on mine it says NGK ZFR6J-11. That's the ones I use on my d15b. If it is a JDM D15b it should only say D15B and nothing else like d15b7 b2 etc. Go to d-series.org and look up the D15B faqs. It will tell you everything there. What water pump to buy timing belt etc. And you'll see the spark plug I referred you too. But good luck cuz that spark plug is hard to find. Atleast here where I live took me a couple of autoparts stores to find them. 
07-29-2008, 05:19 AM
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Plug wires & spark plugs are for a D16Z6, D15B7/B8 wires do not fit. Timing belt and water pump is for a D15Z1 out of a VX hatch, if you replace the tensioner you may need to go to a D16Z6 timing belt as the you can't get a D15B tensioner in north america, closest thing is a D16Z6 tensioner and it has a larger roller.
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07-29-2008, 08:20 AM
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Re: (94EG8)
the block only has D15B on it. Thanks all for the info. You are a great help as always. How is the engine woking out for you? 
Modified by taztwnpa at 9:26 AM 7/29/2008
Modified by taztwnpa at 9:26 AM 7/29/2008
07-29-2008, 08:38 AM
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Re: (taztwnpa)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by taztwnpa »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the block only has D15B on it. Thanks all for the info. You are a great help as always. How is the engine woking out for you?
Modified by taztwnpa at 9:26 AM 7/29/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks
I try. I've been extremly pleased with my D15B vtec, honestly i couldn't be any happier with it. As long as you aren't expecting B-series performance out if its a great engine. To me its what should have come in my car in the first place, i've put over 20,000kms on it since i got and it still hasn't taken any oil or coolant. It has yet to give any trouble at all really. I hope yours works as well for you
Modified by taztwnpa at 9:26 AM 7/29/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks
I try. I've been extremly pleased with my D15B vtec, honestly i couldn't be any happier with it. As long as you aren't expecting B-series performance out if its a great engine. To me its what should have come in my car in the first place, i've put over 20,000kms on it since i got and it still hasn't taken any oil or coolant. It has yet to give any trouble at all really. I hope yours works as well for you
07-29-2008, 08:46 AM
#10
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Re: (94EG8)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94EG8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Plug wires & spark plugs are for a D16Z6, D15B7/B8 wires do not fit. Timing belt and water pump is for a D15Z1 out of a VX hatch, if you replace the tensioner you may need to go to a D16Z6 timing belt as the you can't get a D15B tensioner in north america, closest thing is a D16Z6 tensioner and it has a larger roller.</TD></TR></TABLE>
True but you are forgetting the fact that the z6 belt is slightly larger as far as teeth go. Timing will be off. Like I said at first look at D-Series.org for the D15B faq's. There it will explain what belt to use even with the part number so you don't have trouble finding it.
True but you are forgetting the fact that the z6 belt is slightly larger as far as teeth go. Timing will be off. Like I said at first look at D-Series.org for the D15B faq's. There it will explain what belt to use even with the part number so you don't have trouble finding it.
07-31-2008, 05:10 AM
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Re: (mortificationrock)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mortificationrock »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
True but you are forgetting the fact that the z6 belt is slightly larger as far as teeth go. Timing will be off. Like I said at first look at D-Series.org for the D15B faq's. There it will explain what belt to use even with the part number so you don't have trouble finding it. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm aware of that, i run a VX belt on my D15B vtec, but i also have the original tensioner, if you need to replace the tensioner you need a Z6 tensioner, its the only thing thats close and it has a larger roller than the D15B, therefore you can get away with running the Z6 belt thats a tooth longer.
True but you are forgetting the fact that the z6 belt is slightly larger as far as teeth go. Timing will be off. Like I said at first look at D-Series.org for the D15B faq's. There it will explain what belt to use even with the part number so you don't have trouble finding it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>I'm aware of that, i run a VX belt on my D15B vtec, but i also have the original tensioner, if you need to replace the tensioner you need a Z6 tensioner, its the only thing thats close and it has a larger roller than the D15B, therefore you can get away with running the Z6 belt thats a tooth longer.
07-31-2008, 12:39 PM
#12
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Re: (94EG8)
Funny, I could have swore that the d15b faq's in D series.org says to use a z6 tensioner with a d15b belt. So who's wrong here? Anyone willing to chime in?
08-21-2008, 02:04 PM
#13
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (mortificationrock)
My d15b has a ngk zfr6j-11 label on the valve cover. I would stick to that. I bought some for a d16z6 and the performance was not the same.
08-21-2008, 02:25 PM
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Re: (slywfbpsi)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slywfbpsi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My d15b has a ngk zfr6j-11 label on the valve cover. I would stick to that. I bought some for a d16z6 and the performance was not the same.</TD></TR></TABLE>That's backwards isn't it? I thought the z6 was 6j-11 and the d15b was 5j-11. I could be wrong though it's been a while since I owned a d15b.
08-21-2008, 03:38 PM
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Re: (ILcrxsi1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ILcrxsi1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That's backwards isn't it? I thought the z6 was 6j-11 and the d15b was 5j-11. I could be wrong though it's been a while since I owned a d15b.</TD></TR></TABLE>No it's not, the d16z6 is 6f-11.
08-21-2008, 04:32 PM
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Re: (slywfbpsi)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slywfbpsi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No it's not, the d16z6 is 6f-11.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yup, i've been told to run zfr5f-11's though, apparantly the 6f-11s are due to higher octane ratings in japan? To taztwnpa my engines working great, i put about 23,000kms on it so far and i haven't had any trouble yet.
yup, i've been told to run zfr5f-11's though, apparantly the 6f-11s are due to higher octane ratings in japan? To taztwnpa my engines working great, i put about 23,000kms on it so far and i haven't had any trouble yet.
08-21-2008, 04:37 PM
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Re: (mortificationrock)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mortificationrock »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Funny, I could have swore that the d15b faq's in D series.org says to use a z6 tensioner with a d15b belt. So who's wrong here? Anyone willing to chime in?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Its been a while since i looked at the FAQ, but yes i think it does say that, again though, the Z6 belt is exactly 1 tooth longer than the VX belt. The larger roller in all likelyhood takes up the extra slack. No I haven't actually tried it, but i do see constant reports where people use VX belts and say they're too tight, i assume they must be using the Z6 tensioner, now whether this is due to incompetance on their part or if thats legitimately the case i don't know.
Its been a while since i looked at the FAQ, but yes i think it does say that, again though, the Z6 belt is exactly 1 tooth longer than the VX belt. The larger roller in all likelyhood takes up the extra slack. No I haven't actually tried it, but i do see constant reports where people use VX belts and say they're too tight, i assume they must be using the Z6 tensioner, now whether this is due to incompetance on their part or if thats legitimately the case i don't know.
08-21-2008, 05:01 PM
#18
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Re: (94EG8)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94EG8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Its been a while since i looked at the FAQ, but yes i think it does say that, again though, the Z6 belt is exactly 1 tooth longer than the VX belt. The larger roller in all likelyhood takes up the extra slack. No I haven't actually tried it, but i do see constant reports where people use VX belts and say they're too tight, i assume they must be using the Z6 tensioner, now whether this is due to incompetance on their part or if thats legitimately the case i don't know.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well I wouldn't either cuz I think I kept the original that cam in the motor. Don't really remember though. But I would rather have it be tight then have it lose and watch that **** jump a tooth and mess my **** all up. As far as the spark plugs go I went with the z6's before and it ran like ****. So I put on the D15B ones. Runs better. You should try it for your self. As far as octane goes I have ran it on 87 and most of the time 89. Just for the F of it.
Well I wouldn't either cuz I think I kept the original that cam in the motor. Don't really remember though. But I would rather have it be tight then have it lose and watch that **** jump a tooth and mess my **** all up. As far as the spark plugs go I went with the z6's before and it ran like ****. So I put on the D15B ones. Runs better. You should try it for your self. As far as octane goes I have ran it on 87 and most of the time 89. Just for the F of it.
08-21-2008, 05:12 PM
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Re: (mortificationrock)
I'm actually still running the plugs it came with (6f-11's) running '91 octane. As for the belt as long as you can get all the slack out of the belt and get some tension on it you should be good. again, i haven't tried it, but i'm willing to believe if i were i could get it to work right.
08-22-2008, 01:01 AM
#22
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Re: (94EG8)
Originally Posted by 94EG8
I'm actually still running the plugs it came with (6f-11's) running '91 octane.
Originally Posted by CivicESi
Oh and i got a load of tech info from a helpful guy at Denso, here goes
CAR / ENGINE CODE
Because it is a Japanese Domestic Market car, I have checked our Japanese catalogue
Honda Civic EG4 (/ EG8)
D15B = K20PR-U11 (NGK BKR6E-11) (standard 3mm projection) (like iridium power plugs)
D15B VTEC-E (Economy VTEC)= KJ16CR-L11 (NGK ZFR5F-11) (extra projected = 5mm projection = long=nose)
D15B VTEC (Power VTEC) = KJ20CR-L11 (NGK ZFR6F-11or ZFR6J-11) (extra projected = 5mm projection = long nose)
The customer said the standard plug was the NGK BKR6E-N-11 (Denso K20PR-L11)
According to our and Honda information, this is the plug for the Civic 1.6 and 1.8 VTEC engines.
The "L" in the Denso code (for this plug) and the "-N-" in the NGK code mean that it is a half heatrange colder type.
The K20PR-L11 is like a "K21PR-11" and the NGK BKR6E-N-11 is more like a "BKR6,5E--11
In the owners manual of these cars, there is also the option mentioned for a colder plug (K22PR-L11 or BKR7E-N-11)
Honda advised this for 'a hot climate and/or continuous high speed driving"
By choosing the IK22, the customer has made the right choice of heatrange. (if original is BKR6E-N-11 or K20PR-L11)
(In my personal car (Mazda 323F-coupe), there are are also 2 heatranges recommended in the owners manual. std = heatrange 16 and cold=heatrange20. I have been running the cold heatrange iridium VK20PR-Z11 plugs for 4 years now without problems even in low speed and traffic jam conditions. (2 year std car, 2 year K&N filter + Laser sport exhaust)
However, to be sure about the type, it is best to check the owners manual or check the chassis code and engine code.
How can you know what are the original plugs ?
If projected nose plugs are fitted as Original Equipment, Honda usually puts a sticker in the engine bay that says this (Extended type)
If you use an non-projected (racing or karting plug) with the SAME heatrange as an extra projected type, then the spark plug tip (insulator nose) is not cooled by the relatively cool incoming air/fuel mixture and therefore can overheat.
On the other hand, if you use a extra projected (long-nose) spark plug in a tuned engine, then you will have the risk of the tip of the ground electrode being much more sensitive to damage as a result of the combination of heat and vibrations.
For extremely projected plugs (7->9mm) there is even the risk of plug to piston contact.
TYPE OF PLUG
I have checked the package, but I cannot find where it says 1.1mm.
The specifications in our iridium power information and catalogue show that the IK22 comes from the factory with a 0.8mm gap.
(IK16 + IK20 are 1.1mm, IK22 and higher heatrange K-types are 0.8mm)
In our catalogue we list 1.1mm, but this is to show what the car should have, (not what the plug itself is)
However, because Denso is original equipment on all the Japanese makes, Denso OE plugs come pre gapped to the correct size.
Iridium power is an aftermarket series and in this aftermarket most cars that run heatrange 22, need a 0.8mm gap.
Indeed in the iridium power leaflet it is not recommended to change the gap of the iridium plugs, but this is done because some people set the gap by placing a feeler gauge between the centre electrode and ground electrode and then hitting the ground electrode down to close the gap. This can damage the iridium tip.
On the other hand, if you use a gap setting tool, and do it carefully there should be no problem.
Like I said, if the gap is 0.8mm, while Honda recommends 1.1mm, this will mean that your spark is a little too short and this will affect performance and emissions at low loads and low RPM.
Another danger of a gap smaller than specified is that you have a bigger chance on pinging and detonation.
(However, if you run an increased compression ratio, compressor/turbo or nitrous, you will need a smaller gap than standard)
TUNING ON THE ENGINE
The IK22 will be suitable for a slightly modified car (exhaust, filters, slightly higher RPM) used in tough conditions and continuous high speed driving. (As long as ignition timing is within Honda specifications)
Increasing compression ratio will give a slight increase in power and efficiency, but will also put the engine over the limit for standard fuel. It will have to run on higher octane fuel.
However advancing the ignition out of the Honda tolerances and on top of that increase the compression ratio, will bring the engine closer if not over the knock limit. The increased load and temperature will require colder heatrange spark plugs or even special racing types with shorter ground electrode to resist heat load and vibrations.
Both increasing compression ratio and advancing ignition create huge increases in combustion chamber temperatures so to compensate, ignition advance must not be advanced even more (or even retarded), and to "cool" the engine, the mixture must be slightly richer.
The only way to get more power from a normally aspirated engine by chiptuning is by:
- advancing the ignition (dangerous) and
- richening the air/fuel mixture (slightly more chance on fouling during low-load+idle and risk of melting the catalyst during high speed driving).
Personally I would say. you are stressing the engine enourmously and making it very sensitive for detonation, for only a couple of horsepower that could also be gained by safer measures. (Exhaust, filter, ram air ducts, camshaft)
(extra B)
Standard projection/spark position for almost all automotive spark plugs is 3mm. (indicated by "P")
(NGK BKR6E-11, BKR6E-N-11, BKR7E-N-11, Denso K20PR-U11, K20PR-L11, K22PR-L11 etc....)
Extra projected or long nose for Denso (or "extended" for Honda) is 4mm and up to 9mm projection/spark position)
Honda "long nose" means a spark position at 5mm
(NGK ZFR5F-11, ZFR5J-11, ZFR6F-11, ZFR6J-11, Denso KJ16CR-L11, KJ20CR-L11, PKJ20CR-L11 etc)
For more upgrade options with different prices/performances and service lifes, feel free to contact us with the original plug reference. (If the original plug is a long-nose plug, then there are other performance options)
If the IK22 has the correct heatrange and spark position in the current engine, there are a couple of other options:
Standard engine
If you would have been running a standard engine, then we would recommend to use the same extra projected (long-nose) plug as original, but the high performance thin electrode version of this plug. (5mm projection)
Original = NGK ZFR6F-11, ZFR6J-11, Denso KJ20CR-L11)
High performance version of this plug =
- Denso iridium KJ20SR11 (0.7mm iridium centre electrode)
- Denso iridium VKJ20RZ-M11 (0.4mm iridium centre electrode, platinum tipped ground electrode) (63.000 miles service interval)
The VKJ20RZ-M11 is the ultimate performance option for the standard plugs ZFR6F11, ZFR6J-11, PZFR6F-11,KJ20CR-L11 , PKJ20CR-L11. It is originally fitted to the new Honda BF200 and BF225 V-6 outboard engines.
Hovever, this is not the most suitable plug for your engine.
However, your Civic is a slightly tuned engine (in a risky way by ignition timing) and therefore it is better to go for a slightly colder heatrange.
Also the tuning type (ignition, compression ratio) will give a greater thermal load on the plug and ground electrode and bring it closer to the knock-limit. Therefore you will need a plug that has a colder heatrange and a shorter ground electrode.
Whichever head in on your engine now, it is more important that the plug survives and performs well, than that you have the spark at the same location as the original plug. Therefore moving from a 5mm projected plug to a 3mm projected plug is a smart decision. (NGK BKR..E-.. or Denso K..PR-.. or IK.. are all 3mm projected types)
Looking at the specs that we know from your engine, heatrange 22 (IK22) seems like the correct heatrange.
If fuelling and engine are all wel tuned/adjusted and the plug still comes out bright white and maybe even with some melted spots of carbon or aluminium, then it is safer to go one heatrange up to 24 (IK24)
Please be aware that a colder heatrange plug can transfer more heat, so in low load/low temperature start-stop use, the spark plug will be more sensitive to carbon fouling
Before paying too much attention to the plugs, is is wise ot check if the timing is correct and the engine gets enough fuel.
POSSIBLE PLUGS
In both 22 and 24 heatranges there are the iridium power and the (more expensive) iridium power-longlife 63.000 mile types. The longlife types already have the gap at 1.1mm.
If you increase compression ratio, you will need to set the gap smaller to ± 1.0mm instead of the original 1.1mm.
-DENSO ZU platinum performance 0.7mm centre electrode= K22PR-ZU11
Slightly cheaper than IK22, and no need to set the gap (0.4mm tip is better than 0.7mm tip)
(11 means standard gap is factory set at 1.1mm)
3-DENSO iridium power longlife 0.4mm centre electrode
= VK22PR-Z11 (Honda partno. 98079-5715U) (63.000 miles)
(Same performance as IK22, but correct gap for Hondfa and service life of 63.000km)
(Optional cold plug for Honda VTX1800 motorcycle or optional warm plug for CRF450R crosser)
4-HONDA iridium longlife plug 0.7mm centre electrode
= SK22PR-M11 (Honda partno = 98079-5715V) (63.000++ miles)
(Plug from 7th generation Civic EU.. TYPE-R with 2.0 K20A2 I-VTEC engine)
Heatrange 22
1- K22PR-ZU11 (0.7mm platinum centre electrode, taper cut U-grooved ground electrode, gap = 1.1mm)
2- IK22 (0.4mm iridium centre electrode, taper cut U-grooved ground electrode, gap = 0.8mm) (regap to 1.1)
3- VK22PR-Z11 (0.4mm iridium centre electrode, taper cut, platinum tipped ground electrode, gap = 1.1mm)
(VK22PR-Z11 = warm optional plug for Honda CRF450R crosser. Honda partno = 98079-5715U)
4- SK22PR-M11 (0.7mm iridium centre electrode, platinum tipped ground electrode, gap = 1.1mm)
(SK22PR-M11 = original plug for Honda Accord CL7 2.0 Euro-R and Civic EU Type-R)
(Honda partno = 98079-5715V, 98079-571CV, 12290-PRB-A020M2 )
Heatrange 24
5- IK24 (0.4mm iridium centre electrode, taper cut U-grooved ground electrode, gap = 0.8mm) (regap to 1.0)
6- VK24PR-Z11 (0.4mm iridium centre electrode, taper cut, platinum tipped ground electrode, gap = 1.1mm)
(VK24PR-Z11 = original plug for Honda CRF450R crosser. Honda partno = 31918-MEB-672)
With any of the plugs above you need to run a 1.0 to 1.1mm gap as Honda recommends for almost all of their normally aspirated engines.This is to keep stable idle and low/rpm performance and is needed for good emissions and catalyst.
If you increase compression ratio, you may need to use a 0.95 to 1.0mm gap.
Why not run a very cold heatrange plug ?
A racing-style plug transfers heat so quickly that there is a chance that during idle or repeated cold start start-stop driving, the insulator nose does not reach it's selfcleaning temperature. This means that slowly (conductive) carbon will deposit and start to cause misfires. Any misfire means unburnt fuel in the catalyst and this can cause the catalyst to be damaged or overheat.
So: plug heatrange too warm = risk on pre-ignition and engine damage,
plug heatrange too cold = risk on carbon fouling and damage to the catalyst
CAR / ENGINE CODE
Because it is a Japanese Domestic Market car, I have checked our Japanese catalogue
Honda Civic EG4 (/ EG8)
D15B = K20PR-U11 (NGK BKR6E-11) (standard 3mm projection) (like iridium power plugs)
D15B VTEC-E (Economy VTEC)= KJ16CR-L11 (NGK ZFR5F-11) (extra projected = 5mm projection = long=nose)
D15B VTEC (Power VTEC) = KJ20CR-L11 (NGK ZFR6F-11or ZFR6J-11) (extra projected = 5mm projection = long nose)
The customer said the standard plug was the NGK BKR6E-N-11 (Denso K20PR-L11)
According to our and Honda information, this is the plug for the Civic 1.6 and 1.8 VTEC engines.
The "L" in the Denso code (for this plug) and the "-N-" in the NGK code mean that it is a half heatrange colder type.
The K20PR-L11 is like a "K21PR-11" and the NGK BKR6E-N-11 is more like a "BKR6,5E--11
In the owners manual of these cars, there is also the option mentioned for a colder plug (K22PR-L11 or BKR7E-N-11)
Honda advised this for 'a hot climate and/or continuous high speed driving"
By choosing the IK22, the customer has made the right choice of heatrange. (if original is BKR6E-N-11 or K20PR-L11)
(In my personal car (Mazda 323F-coupe), there are are also 2 heatranges recommended in the owners manual. std = heatrange 16 and cold=heatrange20. I have been running the cold heatrange iridium VK20PR-Z11 plugs for 4 years now without problems even in low speed and traffic jam conditions. (2 year std car, 2 year K&N filter + Laser sport exhaust)
However, to be sure about the type, it is best to check the owners manual or check the chassis code and engine code.
How can you know what are the original plugs ?
If projected nose plugs are fitted as Original Equipment, Honda usually puts a sticker in the engine bay that says this (Extended type)
If you use an non-projected (racing or karting plug) with the SAME heatrange as an extra projected type, then the spark plug tip (insulator nose) is not cooled by the relatively cool incoming air/fuel mixture and therefore can overheat.
On the other hand, if you use a extra projected (long-nose) spark plug in a tuned engine, then you will have the risk of the tip of the ground electrode being much more sensitive to damage as a result of the combination of heat and vibrations.
For extremely projected plugs (7->9mm) there is even the risk of plug to piston contact.
TYPE OF PLUG
I have checked the package, but I cannot find where it says 1.1mm.
The specifications in our iridium power information and catalogue show that the IK22 comes from the factory with a 0.8mm gap.
(IK16 + IK20 are 1.1mm, IK22 and higher heatrange K-types are 0.8mm)
In our catalogue we list 1.1mm, but this is to show what the car should have, (not what the plug itself is)
However, because Denso is original equipment on all the Japanese makes, Denso OE plugs come pre gapped to the correct size.
Iridium power is an aftermarket series and in this aftermarket most cars that run heatrange 22, need a 0.8mm gap.
Indeed in the iridium power leaflet it is not recommended to change the gap of the iridium plugs, but this is done because some people set the gap by placing a feeler gauge between the centre electrode and ground electrode and then hitting the ground electrode down to close the gap. This can damage the iridium tip.
On the other hand, if you use a gap setting tool, and do it carefully there should be no problem.
Like I said, if the gap is 0.8mm, while Honda recommends 1.1mm, this will mean that your spark is a little too short and this will affect performance and emissions at low loads and low RPM.
Another danger of a gap smaller than specified is that you have a bigger chance on pinging and detonation.
(However, if you run an increased compression ratio, compressor/turbo or nitrous, you will need a smaller gap than standard)
TUNING ON THE ENGINE
The IK22 will be suitable for a slightly modified car (exhaust, filters, slightly higher RPM) used in tough conditions and continuous high speed driving. (As long as ignition timing is within Honda specifications)
Increasing compression ratio will give a slight increase in power and efficiency, but will also put the engine over the limit for standard fuel. It will have to run on higher octane fuel.
However advancing the ignition out of the Honda tolerances and on top of that increase the compression ratio, will bring the engine closer if not over the knock limit. The increased load and temperature will require colder heatrange spark plugs or even special racing types with shorter ground electrode to resist heat load and vibrations.
Both increasing compression ratio and advancing ignition create huge increases in combustion chamber temperatures so to compensate, ignition advance must not be advanced even more (or even retarded), and to "cool" the engine, the mixture must be slightly richer.
The only way to get more power from a normally aspirated engine by chiptuning is by:
- advancing the ignition (dangerous) and
- richening the air/fuel mixture (slightly more chance on fouling during low-load+idle and risk of melting the catalyst during high speed driving).
Personally I would say. you are stressing the engine enourmously and making it very sensitive for detonation, for only a couple of horsepower that could also be gained by safer measures. (Exhaust, filter, ram air ducts, camshaft)
(extra B)
Standard projection/spark position for almost all automotive spark plugs is 3mm. (indicated by "P")
(NGK BKR6E-11, BKR6E-N-11, BKR7E-N-11, Denso K20PR-U11, K20PR-L11, K22PR-L11 etc....)
Extra projected or long nose for Denso (or "extended" for Honda) is 4mm and up to 9mm projection/spark position)
Honda "long nose" means a spark position at 5mm
(NGK ZFR5F-11, ZFR5J-11, ZFR6F-11, ZFR6J-11, Denso KJ16CR-L11, KJ20CR-L11, PKJ20CR-L11 etc)
For more upgrade options with different prices/performances and service lifes, feel free to contact us with the original plug reference. (If the original plug is a long-nose plug, then there are other performance options)
If the IK22 has the correct heatrange and spark position in the current engine, there are a couple of other options:
Standard engine
If you would have been running a standard engine, then we would recommend to use the same extra projected (long-nose) plug as original, but the high performance thin electrode version of this plug. (5mm projection)
Original = NGK ZFR6F-11, ZFR6J-11, Denso KJ20CR-L11)
High performance version of this plug =
- Denso iridium KJ20SR11 (0.7mm iridium centre electrode)
- Denso iridium VKJ20RZ-M11 (0.4mm iridium centre electrode, platinum tipped ground electrode) (63.000 miles service interval)
The VKJ20RZ-M11 is the ultimate performance option for the standard plugs ZFR6F11, ZFR6J-11, PZFR6F-11,KJ20CR-L11 , PKJ20CR-L11. It is originally fitted to the new Honda BF200 and BF225 V-6 outboard engines.
Hovever, this is not the most suitable plug for your engine.
However, your Civic is a slightly tuned engine (in a risky way by ignition timing) and therefore it is better to go for a slightly colder heatrange.
Also the tuning type (ignition, compression ratio) will give a greater thermal load on the plug and ground electrode and bring it closer to the knock-limit. Therefore you will need a plug that has a colder heatrange and a shorter ground electrode.
Whichever head in on your engine now, it is more important that the plug survives and performs well, than that you have the spark at the same location as the original plug. Therefore moving from a 5mm projected plug to a 3mm projected plug is a smart decision. (NGK BKR..E-.. or Denso K..PR-.. or IK.. are all 3mm projected types)
Looking at the specs that we know from your engine, heatrange 22 (IK22) seems like the correct heatrange.
If fuelling and engine are all wel tuned/adjusted and the plug still comes out bright white and maybe even with some melted spots of carbon or aluminium, then it is safer to go one heatrange up to 24 (IK24)
Please be aware that a colder heatrange plug can transfer more heat, so in low load/low temperature start-stop use, the spark plug will be more sensitive to carbon fouling
Before paying too much attention to the plugs, is is wise ot check if the timing is correct and the engine gets enough fuel.
POSSIBLE PLUGS
In both 22 and 24 heatranges there are the iridium power and the (more expensive) iridium power-longlife 63.000 mile types. The longlife types already have the gap at 1.1mm.
If you increase compression ratio, you will need to set the gap smaller to ± 1.0mm instead of the original 1.1mm.
-DENSO ZU platinum performance 0.7mm centre electrode= K22PR-ZU11
Slightly cheaper than IK22, and no need to set the gap (0.4mm tip is better than 0.7mm tip)
(11 means standard gap is factory set at 1.1mm)
3-DENSO iridium power longlife 0.4mm centre electrode
= VK22PR-Z11 (Honda partno. 98079-5715U) (63.000 miles)
(Same performance as IK22, but correct gap for Hondfa and service life of 63.000km)
(Optional cold plug for Honda VTX1800 motorcycle or optional warm plug for CRF450R crosser)
4-HONDA iridium longlife plug 0.7mm centre electrode
= SK22PR-M11 (Honda partno = 98079-5715V) (63.000++ miles)
(Plug from 7th generation Civic EU.. TYPE-R with 2.0 K20A2 I-VTEC engine)
Heatrange 22
1- K22PR-ZU11 (0.7mm platinum centre electrode, taper cut U-grooved ground electrode, gap = 1.1mm)
2- IK22 (0.4mm iridium centre electrode, taper cut U-grooved ground electrode, gap = 0.8mm) (regap to 1.1)
3- VK22PR-Z11 (0.4mm iridium centre electrode, taper cut, platinum tipped ground electrode, gap = 1.1mm)
(VK22PR-Z11 = warm optional plug for Honda CRF450R crosser. Honda partno = 98079-5715U)
4- SK22PR-M11 (0.7mm iridium centre electrode, platinum tipped ground electrode, gap = 1.1mm)
(SK22PR-M11 = original plug for Honda Accord CL7 2.0 Euro-R and Civic EU Type-R)
(Honda partno = 98079-5715V, 98079-571CV, 12290-PRB-A020M2 )
Heatrange 24
5- IK24 (0.4mm iridium centre electrode, taper cut U-grooved ground electrode, gap = 0.8mm) (regap to 1.0)
6- VK24PR-Z11 (0.4mm iridium centre electrode, taper cut, platinum tipped ground electrode, gap = 1.1mm)
(VK24PR-Z11 = original plug for Honda CRF450R crosser. Honda partno = 31918-MEB-672)
With any of the plugs above you need to run a 1.0 to 1.1mm gap as Honda recommends for almost all of their normally aspirated engines.This is to keep stable idle and low/rpm performance and is needed for good emissions and catalyst.
If you increase compression ratio, you may need to use a 0.95 to 1.0mm gap.
Why not run a very cold heatrange plug ?
A racing-style plug transfers heat so quickly that there is a chance that during idle or repeated cold start start-stop driving, the insulator nose does not reach it's selfcleaning temperature. This means that slowly (conductive) carbon will deposit and start to cause misfires. Any misfire means unburnt fuel in the catalyst and this can cause the catalyst to be damaged or overheat.
So: plug heatrange too warm = risk on pre-ignition and engine damage,
plug heatrange too cold = risk on carbon fouling and damage to the catalyst
09-17-2008, 09:35 PM
#23
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Taylor, tx
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Re: (94EG8)
I have an issue with my JDM D15b, perhaps you can help me out.
I bought the engine straight from JDM and the computer as well.
When my mechanic installed it, it wouldn't start.
So he replaced the spark plugs but that didnt work.
So he set the firing order to a 96 D15 and then it started.
But what i was apparently sold was a 92-95 D15b with a matching computer.
Problem is now my car spits at low rpms and has to be rev'd for a while in idle or it dies.
At mid to High rpm's it handles fine.
But i can't cruise or even maintain 20mph in 2nd because the rpms are so low it spits
Also the pedal is EXTREMELY touchy.
One tap and it wants to jump and take off.
Any ideas?
Thanks for your time.
I bought the engine straight from JDM and the computer as well.
When my mechanic installed it, it wouldn't start.
So he replaced the spark plugs but that didnt work.
So he set the firing order to a 96 D15 and then it started.
But what i was apparently sold was a 92-95 D15b with a matching computer.
Problem is now my car spits at low rpms and has to be rev'd for a while in idle or it dies.
At mid to High rpm's it handles fine.
But i can't cruise or even maintain 20mph in 2nd because the rpms are so low it spits
Also the pedal is EXTREMELY touchy.
One tap and it wants to jump and take off.
Any ideas?
Thanks for your time.
09-17-2008, 09:39 PM
#24
Seagull Management
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Miramichi, NB, Canada
Posts: 15,150
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Re: (usapooky)
is the check engine light on? first off i guess does the check engine light work, IE turn on for about 5 seconds when to turn the key to on.