SOHC_MShue

does anybody have any ideas what the problem could be? My heater is working so I've been told that means the thermostat isn't broken. I am guessing maybe I have a large air pocket in my radiator. I drained and replaced the coolant the other week when attempting to replace my timing belt, but neglected to flush the radiator because my friend said it wasn't too necessary and we were in a hurry so I just said **** it and put the new coolant in. I am guessing that maybe this is the problem. My car isn't overheating though so I'm kinda confused as to why it isn't warming up like it should be.

The Internet Tough Guy

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Best way to check for a faulty thermostat:

Crank the car and let it get up to nomal operating temp, which should be just under halfway on your temp gauge.

Feel the upper hose on the radiator - hot right?

Now feel the lower hose - it too should be hot, but if it isn't then that means your thermostat isn't working. If the hose feels cool to the touch then you need to replace your thermostat.

If your therm. isn't working right then your cooling fan will not work either.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i think it is your thermostat - i would take his word for it. but it might be something else - i dunno if the working heater means anything or not.
if you look through the past couple pages there is about 4 threads with people having the same problem. weird... i guess the colder weather has some effect on our cooling system's parts.

Quik Chris

You mean it's cold, or not hot? Technically, the lower radiator hose shouldn't be hot, but just warm... becuase the radiator is doing its job. Don't create problems if you don't have any....

SOHC_MShue

no its definantely cold. It just seems strange though because my car isn't overheating at all and seems to be running fine.

JICEK9

could be the thermostat. there cheap just replace it. for how cheap it is it plays a pretty imortent role in your engine. it could also be an air pocket. how long did you let the car run while putting the coolent in? (by letting it run I mean with the cap off and letting all the air work out)

SOHC_MShue

I don't think I let it run for too long. I am attempting to change my timing belt again probably this week. Last time I couldn't get the crank pulley bolt off. Damn air impact guns wouldn't even work . So I will be draining the fluid again. This time I will flush it out and let it run longer with the coolant in. My friend sais it may just be a huge air pocket in my radiator. Do you guys know where the bleed bolt is on d16y8 motors? Also how many gallons of coolant is my radiator suppost to hold?

JICEK9

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOHC_MShue &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do you guys know where the bleed bolt is on d16y8 motors? </TD></TR></TABLE>

they don't have one.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOHC_MShue &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also how many gallons of coolant is my radiator suppost to hold?</TD></TR></TABLE>

if you drain and fill, it's about a gallon in a half

next time your doing the timing belt do drain the coolent out. when it's time to refill, fill the radiator to the top and start the engine. now let the engine run and keep filling the radiator up. I usally wait about a half hour of doing this and then it's good to go

The Internet Tough Guy

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JICEK9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

they don't have one.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes they do.. well that's what helms says. it's up by the oil filter on the back of the block. i don't have it in front of me, but i think its a 19mm bolt and it's up and to the left of the oil filter. it's not easy to get to, if you scoot back under the car far enough you can see it.

SOHC_MShue

****...thats the bolt thats suppost to be real hard to get to. Is bleeding really necessary?

SOHC_MShue

damn its a gallon and a half....i couldn't even get a gallon in there. I must have a large air bubble then.

Nikos

It could also be a faulty water pump. Sometimes, a waterpump may be realesing a small amount of h2o through a leaking plug... That could make your system, not wanting to circulate the water. If your water stays static and doesn't flow through the hoses, that could be it.

SOHC_MShue

yea that could be it. My car has 99k on it and the water pump needs to be changed. I will be doing that hopefully this week though.

KRiS1

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jwn7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

yes they do.. well that's what helms says. it's up by the oil filter on the back of the block. i don't have it in front of me, but i think its a 19mm bolt and it's up and to the left of the oil filter. it's not easy to get to, if you scoot back under the car far enough you can see it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The 19mm bolt on the block is just a coolant drain bolt for the block. The bleed screw if it has one i think should be located on or near the thersmostat housing.

JICEK9

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOHC_MShue &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">damn its a gallon and a half....i couldn't even get a gallon in there. I must have a large air bubble then.</TD></TR></TABLE>

that might be wrong. I was just speaking on my own expirience. it's about a gallon to a gallon in a half. and as far as I know they don't have a bleeder screw. I work at Honda and when we do coolent we just do it the way I described above. The only way the bleeder screw would do it's job is if it's the highest point in the cooling system. and the back of the block is DEFINETLY not the highest point.

JICEK9

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KRiS1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The 19mm bolt on the block is just a coolant drain bolt for the block. The bleed screw if it has one i think should be located on or near the thersmostat housing. </TD></TR></TABLE>

thats what I was saying in my above post. the bleeder screw has to be at the highest point in the cooling system. Otherwise you would be bleeding coolent and not air.

so once again, to best of my knowlege until somebody else calls me a liar , THEY DON'T HAVE ONE

Evs-One

liar

lol.

Even if the have one, it won't be in the t-stat housing, it should be on the upper radiator hose housing off the head

If youre not overheating and not losing coolant, I wouldn't worry about it. Start the car rev the engine with the rad cap off and let it run....if there is a bubble, it should escape out the rad during this time. If not...."if it aint broke dont fix it"

SOHC_MShue

yea thats what I was thinking...that it should be above the upper radiator hose. Thats where my online helms said it should be on a z6. I'm gonna try that bubble trick out later on today.

axhandler

It sounds like you didn't fill it correctly. If you doing your T'belt you should be replacing your water pump at the same time. Like someone already said "fill the radiator then start the car, with the radiator cap off, and let if run for a while and keep adding coolant till you can't add any more. Also make sure the overflow has the proper amount of coolant in it.

The Y8 has no bleeder.

Peace!

The Internet Tough Guy

ok, there's a little too much wrong information floating around in this thread.
now for some hard evidence - the proper way to drain / fill the cooling system for a 96-98 civic (d16y5,y7,y8), as taken from my online helms. (i do have the actual copy, this is just for things like this.)




when i recently did mine, it was mad cold out, i was kinda pissed to begin with, and i therefore didn't feel like being bothered with that drain bolt - so i just left it alone, and followed the rest EXACTLY as it says. everything works fine so you might just need to<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Emerika &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Start the car rev the engine with the rad cap off and let it run....if there is a bubble, it should escape out the rad during this time. If not...."if it aint broke dont fix it"</TD></TR></TABLE>

JICEK9

like I said, that bolt is a "drain bolt" not a "bleeder screw"

do your coolent like I originally posted and you'll be fine

just for one last time, THE Y8 HAS NO BLEEDER SCREW

The Internet Tough Guy

oh hahah on me. we were talking about 2 different things... i need to go to sleep

axhandler

It's cool that you posted the helms directions though...

SOHC_MShue

thanks man! That is different from the z6 directions. The drain bolt looks like a biatch to get to up by the oil filter

JICEK9

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jwn7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">oh hahah on me. we were talking about 2 different things... i need to go to sleep </TD></TR></TABLE>

lol

SOHC_MShue

ok guys I have an update. I let the car sit there running for like 30 minutes with my radiator cap off. A bunch of coolant leaked out of the top of the radiator I guess because the air pressure was pushing it out of the top. After a while my lower radiator hose actually got warm and everything seemed to be working better. My fan was even coming on like it should. Then I drove the car around some and later on checked it and it was cold again. Did the pressure build back up or something? I let the car just run for like 40 minutes trying to get the air out now. Hopefully it will work this time.

edit: Usually when the coolant would reach the top of the radiator and start to bubble a lot the fan would come on and the coolant level would drop back down and then when it went off it would slowly rise again.