Cozmikk

So I think I posted this here a while back and I have made a little bit of progress since. I swapped a z6 into my ek last Fall. It had about 112k miles on it and came out of a '81 CRX Si.

When I put the engine in, it was running very rich and having awful idle issues (surge, bogging, and then dying), and also had issues with bucking, bogging, and dying at idle while driving. It was an all around terrible experience to drive. After some time, I began trying to locate stock parts to make this engine as stock as possible. The only things that weren't stock were the intake manifold and the exhaust. I suspected that the intake manifold was the culprit due to many people saying that bogging issues mainly begin with most sensors on the intake manifold.

I bought a d16z6 intake manifold and put it on. At this point, the engine was completely stock other than the cold air intake and the Spec-D exhaust with a test pipe to replace the cat. After this, the engine began to run a little better. It was no longer running rich and acceleration improved somewhat. I have been running this setup since then but It still felt really off. We could never manage to time the ignition timing and get it to keep. When we'd check, it would seem as though it had retarded or advanced some on its own. My wiring setup is a p28 ECU (5 speed) to an obd1->obd2 jumper harness (because I have the stock obd2 engine harness), and a obd2->obd1 jumper for the distributor. All other plugs are plugged in from the engine harness that didn't need to be adapted. We have changed the IACV plug from a 3 pin to a 2 pin as that's what the z6 requires, and we have wired vtec directly to the ECU with pins going to the right places. All of the wiring seems to check out and we took extreme care with this swap as It was my first and I didn't want to mess up something and have to backtrack. So with all of this care, I can't imagine that the ECU is sending signals to retard or advance the timing. To go with the bogging at idle side of things, I have also taken apart and cleaned both the IACV and FITV, and the bogging still remains, along with the surge.

On to what it's been like in the past 2-3 weeks. We took off the valve cover the other day and looked at the timing belt. It seemed to be off a tooth. We fixed that as far as I know, and acceleration improved dramatically. The issue that I have is that when I take off in 1st gear, I usually take off at about 2k rpm (what my tach says.. it's aftermarket so it may be a little off), and once the gear catches and the engine has a load on it, it'll drop to about 1k rpm and accelerate very slowly until about 2k-3k rpm when it's like something clicks and the engine actually has power. I usually run 2nd up to 60 to take advantage of the power that it has rather than shifting into 3rd. I also don't use 5th gear anymore because I can have my foot to the floor and my car will actually begin to decelerate in 5th. When I'm in 4th, the car will keep speed but won't really accelerate at all (like what 5th gear is supposed to be). I have changed my fuel filter, done plugs and wires (ngk plugs and denso wires), changed the o2 sensor (it's throwing a code so i'll try to get a replacement as it may be faulty), and changed the MAP sensor. I also have cleaned the FITV and IACV as I had mentioned before. I honestly am lost on how to fix this. I know that it feels nothing like the y7 did when I had that in the car so I don't think its due to d-series engines having less bottom end than b-series. Anyway, if you could help out, that would be greatly appreciated! I have been racking my brain and the brains of others for months now with only little progress! Thanks!

mk378

Line up the marks on the cam pulley. Make sure the crank is at TDC by taking the spark plug out and probing in cylinder 1 while moving the crank back and forth. If the crank pulley has been put on without the key, the marks will be wrong.

Then put the test jumper in and set the spark timing. The CEL should be on steady when running with the test jumper in.

The ECU varies the spark timing by design during normal operation (test jumper not in).

Running rich may be too much fuel pressure. Check it with a gauge. Make sure the compensator hose is connected from the fuel pressure regulator to the intake vacuum.

tony_2018

timing mech and ign double check it

bleed coolant system again

Cozmikk

I'll be sure to check the timing again as it's possible that we messed up when fixing the timing belt issue. I will also bleed my coolant again as this morning the temp gauge began to rise on me out of the blue.

Cozmikk

I'm pretty sure that the key is in the cam pulley. I had a buddy who didn't once and wrecked his engine. I'll recheck the timing as well. I made sure to put the jumper in each time. I will also check fuel pressure as I have not in a while and that would be good to check up on especially with all of the changes that have been made since.

tony_2018

It'll take a while to bleed because the car is just sitting on your yard/driveway. Turn on the heater too.