SpoonFedHatch

already tried suspension forum, no luck...


ok, so my passenger side tie rod/ inner tie rod is wiggling back and forth. Whenever i hit the brakes, or make a slight pass over a bump, it "knocks", and when i inpected the tie rod, it wiggles front to back, whereas the DRIVER side stays stable inside of it's boot

here's a picture of what's wiggling.




basically, i need some detailed descriptions on how to remove this and replace the inner tie rod.

thanks in advance!!

T4eg

for the inner tie rod. u will need a special tool. It looks like a pipe with 1/2" drive opening on the back. The other end of it has 2 "slots" cut into, U will take one of the adapters..looks like the open end of a wrench but with 2 things sticking ou the side(that go into the slots cut into the other piece) . Sorry for the shitty description, Just dont know exactly what everything is called

Chris

SpoonFedHatch

ok....so i can rent this tool and it will separate that ball-joint from the steering rack right?

just want to make sure i know what i'm doing before i tear up my steering rack......thanks for the help, keep it coming

JDM_Ej

Bump because i would also like to know where to get that tool.

JDM_Ej

No one has replaced their inner tie rods?

JDM_Ej

its amazing how fast this forum moves lol.

SpoonFedHatch

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_Ej &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its amazing how fast this forum moves lol. </TD></TR></TABLE>

EE_Chris

The only special tool the Helms calls out is for tightening up the boot bands.

It only calls for two wrenches to remove the inner tie-rod. In the diagram, part #8, you'll see it has been notched - use one wrench on this to hold the rack steady. The inner tie-rod itself is squared for a portion - use the second wrench here.

Also make sure to replace the lock washer.

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

Are you ABSOLUTELY sure it's your inner tie rod? I thought the exact same thing on my CRX, but upon closer inspection, it turned out to be a worn rack end bushing (#9 in your picture). Since my boots were already torn, the inspection was easy. First I turned the steering wheel all the way to the left. Then I pulled back the boot & grabbed the end of the steering rack (#8) with one hand, and the outer portion of the inner tie rod (#1) with the other. When I wiggled them around to find the play in the ball-joint I found NONE. But when I just wiggled the end of the steering rack (#8) by itself, I found where the play was coming from.

I've been told that after removing the inner tie rod, it is possible to pry out the old worn plastic bushing (#9) and push the new one into place. There are two little tabs that snap into hols in the sides of the gear box. Once the boot is removed, your supposed to be able to see the holes & tabs. I guess you just push them in while prying the old bushing out. I haven't done this yet, but I've already got the parts. I'm thinking about removing the steering gearbox and trying it this week though...

As for removing the inner tie rod, you just un-bend the flimsy lock washer tabs (#20). Then you put one wrench on the steering rack (#8), and one wrench on the inner tie rod (#1's large ball-joint housing). Then you unscrew them from each other....

JDM_Ej

Good replies. Now i gotta get underneath and diagnose the problem.

ironcheftony

when i did inner and outer tie rods on a eg hatch with bseires motor i found it easier just to take out the whole steering rack, it was easier that way for me

SpoonFedHatch

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are you ABSOLUTELY sure it's your inner tie rod? I thought the exact same thing on my CRX, but upon closer inspection, it turned out to be a worn rack end bushing (#9 in your picture). Since my boots were already torn, the inspection was easy. First I turned the steering wheel all the way to the left. Then I pulled back the boot & grabbed the end of the steering rack (#8) with one hand, and the outer portion of the inner tie rod (#1) with the other. When I wiggled them around to find the play in the ball-joint I found NONE. But when I just wiggled the end of the steering rack (#8) by itself, I found where the play was coming from.

I've been told that after removing the inner tie rod, it is possible to pry out the old worn plastic bushing (#9) and push the new one into place. There are two little tabs that snap into hols in the sides of the gear box. Once the boot is removed, your supposed to be able to see the holes & tabs. I guess you just push them in while prying the old bushing out. I haven't done this yet, but I've already got the parts. I'm thinking about removing the steering gearbox and trying it this week though...

As for removing the inner tie rod, you just un-bend the flimsy lock washer tabs (#20). Then you put one wrench on the steering rack (#8), and one wrench on the inner tie rod (#1's large ball-joint housing). Then you unscrew them from each other....</TD></TR></TABLE>

i'm not sure it's the inner tie rod, the only diagnosis i have (from my own inspection) was the ball-joint wiggleing back and forth. it's not the metal holding piece that's wiggling, just the ball joint-to-tie rod


i'll inspect more, tear the boot off, and try to figure out what to do

thanks for the replies though, you can always depend on HT

93civicsedan

iTrader: (1)

try autozone for the tool to remove the inner tie rod. you might as well replace both inner and outer at the same time so you wont have to deal with it later.