Dasfinc

Hey all,

I pitched the diff in my B18B1 swapped 92 CX hatch and cannot get the bitch pin out.

Please don't post anything stupid as I did this swap basically alone with basic hand tools and am not gonna continue to bash on my transmission with a hammer.

The bottom of the pin is flared from installing the bitch pin back into the linkage with a hammer, so its pretty much impossible to get it to go through *I'd rather not hammer on it anyways*, Also, the 'C-Clamp' method doesn't seem to work as a clamp beefy enough to not break doesn't fit straight up and down ontop of the hex/torque bit due to the distance between the transmissions overhang and the placement of the pin on the linkage

Aside from hitting it with an impact hammer *as I don't want to further destroy my transmission* Are there any other ideas to get this thing out?

Currently the plan is to just Drill it out once I pickup some better drill bits and put a snug bolt through it for the next time I have to drop the transmission.

*edit*

1000th post!!! Rock on!

b16a3delsol

i would say if its flared the only option is to drill it out. lots of lube and some good bits are the way to go.

Remington

also I've heard, if anyone else knows chime in that putting a standard bolt in in place of the bitch pin will cause your shifter to feel loose as hell

b16a3delsol

I dont really think i would trust a bolt because it could start to lossen up over time and wear but I dont think finding another "bitch" pin would be hard to do.

Kegan

It's just an 8mm roll pin. Should be able to find it easily.

b16a3delsol

of all the Hondas in the world you would think you could definately find a pin of some sort that would work.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

Remove the engine and trans without taking out the pin. The linkage will slide out of the car with the assembly.

Try to take it out from the top hitting downwards. Or use the C clamp method when it's out of the car.

Go to a dealer and buy the new one. It's $2, usually in stock, and it's the right size.

Dasfinc

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B serious &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Remove the engine and trans without taking out the pin. The linkage will slide out of the car with the assembly.

Try to take it out from the top hitting downwards. Or use the C clamp method when it's out of the car.

Go to a dealer and buy the new one. It's $2, usually in stock, and it's the right size. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't plan on dropping the engine, I plan on just dropping the transmission.

I can't take it out from the top on the LS trans, the BODY of the transmission is in the way, so I am unable to fit the C-Clamp in between the linkage and transmission body with the hex bit on it, and defiantly cant get to it with a hammer from the top.

I REALLY don't like my local dealer, and would rather spend $5 on it shipped than picking it up from them for $2.

Thanks for the suggestions everybody, Drill may be the ultimate solution.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

heat up the linkage. Smash the pin out. Be violent.

b16a3delsol

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B serious &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">heat up the linkage. Smash the pin out. Be violent. </TD></TR></TABLE>

x2 get mean with it thats the fun alternative.

d357r0y

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dasfinc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't plan on dropping the engine, I plan on just dropping the transmission.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You just solved your own problem. Pull the tranny with the linkage connected and then hit the pin from the top. I suggest you get a roll pin punch in the correct size if you'd rather not go through this situation again.

Dasfinc

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B serious &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">heat up the linkage. Smash the pin out. Be violent. </TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16a3delsol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
x2 get mean with it thats the fun alternative. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Heat will cause the pin to expand as well as the linkage, making it even harder to get it out. and again, Hammers and Transmissions are a bad idea...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by d357r0y &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You just solved your own problem. Pull the tranny with the linkage connected and then hit the pin from the top. I suggest you get a roll pin punch in the correct size if you'd rather not go through this situation again. </TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dasfinc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I don't plan on dropping the engine, I plan on just dropping the transmission.

I can't take it out from the top on the LS trans, the BODY of the transmission is in the way, so I am unable to fit the C-Clamp in between the linkage and transmission body with the hex bit on it, and defiantly cant get to it with a hammer from the top.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks for input, but please read my post before responding next time. On the LS trans, There is NO WAY to get to the top of the pin with a hammer or a decently sized clamp, with the trans in, or out of the car.

d357r0y

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dasfinc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Thanks for input, but please read my post before responding next time. On the LS trans, There is NO WAY to get to the top of the pin with a hammer or a decently sized clamp, with the trans in, or out of the car.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I just went and looked at my case and you're 100% correct, sorry about that. If you don't want to cut the linkage/drill, the only other way I see to do it besides maybe a small vice to push it out is to open the case, remove the shift rod and then tap the pin out. A lot of work but it'd only cost you some time and a little bit of Hondabond.

Dasfinc

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by d357r0y &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I just went and looked at my case and you're 100% correct, sorry about that. If you don't want to cut the linkage/drill, the only other way I see to do it besides maybe a small vice to push it out is to open the case, remove the shift rod and then tap the pin out. A lot of work but it'd only cost you some time and a little bit of Hondabond.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think Drilling is going to be the solution for this sadly. Thanks for being understanding about my post, I remeber my D-series trans I could reach it from the top, and thought the clamp would be the easy way to get it out, then I got under the car and saw the size difference and went "well, doesn't that suck"

censurebush

drilling isn't anything to be afraid of though. no worries.

Dasfinc

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by censurebush &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">drilling isn't anything to be afraid of though. no worries.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm just afraid of the bit snapping and hitting me in the face since my head is basically right there even with goggles on. *yea yea, I'm a sissy, but I didn't use a single power tool my entire engine swap*

ON a side note, I can't torch anything under the car really. Its under-body coated and that **** lights right the [freak] up if exposed to an open flame.


Modified by Dasfinc at 12:51 PM 4/23/2008