wwang924

Yea, got in an accident today, one i could have easily avoided with my old car, a freakin 4000lb cadillac. That thing stopped on a dime. What are some ways to make my slow *** EK faster at stopping. Im thinking bout putting in an ABS system i think that was possible. PLease hELP!! and if you can give an estimated pricing with each option.

z6

big rotors, better tires...do u have 4 wheel disks?

Ricey McRicerton

Integra disks all the way around with decent pads and good fluid and some sticky tires. I'm sure there will be someone who comes in and screams for a big brake kit, but you can't beat this setup for the price, and on the streets it's more than enough.

There's no way in hell your old Caddy could outstop that. The main problem with our cars is we're traction limited more than stopping force limited.

BigRonDawg

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ricey McRicerton &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There's no way in hell your old Caddy could outstop that. The main problem with our cars is we're traction limited more than stopping force limited.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Exactly, our cars don't stop good is because they are so light!

Upgrading to the integra brakes with some really good pads and tires is prolly the best you can do.

Getting huge *** brake rotors and calipers won't help much since we dont have the weight to help the brakes out.

Those huge brakes will just lock up easier... go with the integra brake setup like Ricey said.

wwang924

So going 4 wheel disk, will be better than the drums? For some reasons i thought the drums actually have more stopping power. Also, are those going to be four lugs? Cuz i bought rims and tires, just haven't put them on yet. falken Ziex. Thanks for the input guys, accidents SUCK! Stay out of them.

Ricey McRicerton

Yes, these are still going to be the same 4x100 setup, with the same acceptable offset on a set of rims and tires. Drums actually do have a stronger stopping power, but they overheat and fade easily, which is why sports cars have 4 wheel disk brakes.

wwang924

are the rotors the same size? Or would i just need to change out the rear drums? and get some better pads with the current front pads.?

*edit

Meaning keep the current front disks, and get the teg rear disks, instead of all for teg disks.

92civichatch1

drum brakes dont have better stopping power than discs. 80percent of the stopping power in disc and drum comes from the discs.

wwang924

okay, the car dips under braking and that is why more breaking power has to come from the front. For example motorcycles. you can have all the stopping power you want in the back, its the front ones that you need. Drums cover a larger surface area compared to disks. Thats why they can slow down the rotation faster. just thought i let you know.

wwang924

bump for, should i get all four teg brakes? or just the rear.

wwang924

bump

EeeJayEight

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92civichatch1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">drum brakes dont have better stopping power than discs. 80percent of the stopping power in disc and drum comes from the discs.</TD></TR></TABLE>


drums have more stopping power than disks...

just look at the amount of fluid distribution on the prop valve

that is why when u swap disk brakes in place of drums you need to change the proportion valve so that it wont lock up the rears as soon as you put a decent amount of force on the pedal. this is why trucks a lot of times use drum brakes

vc

don't use abs.

wwang924

which year teg or del sol should i use tat will still have the 4X100 pattern?

wwang924

??

EeeJayEight

anything other than ITR

taney

my car stops good .. i have an 92 dx hatch .. with gsr front knuckles and complete rear trailing arms .. brembo rotors .. axxis ultimate calipers .. 98+ gsr 1" master cylinder and brake booster .. 40/40 non-abs prop valve off a non-abs DA .. you can aim me if you have any questions ..

derspi

All you probably need are better aftermarket brake pads up front and a brake fluid flush. For pads, I recommend Hawk HPS. You DON'T need a big brake kit, that's nonsense.

Solracer

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by derspi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">All you probably need are better aftermarket brake pads up front and a brake fluid flush. For pads, I recommend Hawk HPS. You DON'T need a big brake kit, that's nonsense.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Finally a smart suggestion, Get new replacment rotors, new fluid, and new pads, perferably something like and axxis ultimates. Old rotors, and fluid are usually the biggest culprit of bad braking performance.

Crank

iTrader: (1)

ITR 5-Lug Brakes, 40/40 Prop valve, ITR MC/Booster you will stop on a dime

mike93eh

brembo blanks, goodridge ss lines, axxis pads = seckz

Andres-eh2

End All!!!!!! Great DIY!

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=659063

allmotorEG-SI

u need an civic si hatchback. I had one, 4 wheel disc(same size rotors as tegs), 2 wheel abs, upgradeed to brembo blanks and Ultimate axxis pads, that thing stopped on a dime. I loved it! never had brake fade either. But you don't need to change out the rear drums. For all the time and effort you would put into it it wouldn't help that much. many auto x guys will tell you it only makes the tinest of difference.

JasonGhostz

My first question is: what size tires and wheels do you have (nice Falken tires, man!)? Also, what tires/wheels did you have when you crashed? If you're still running stock 14" w/wheel covers and OEM spec tires, you should start by increasing the contact patch of your tires. I'd start by mounting your new wheels/tires. Increasing your brakes' ability to stop your wheel from spinning, no matter how you "upgrade" it, matters little if your tires can't hold the road while doing so.

Tell us about your wheels/tires. What size wheel/rim do you have? What load rating and speed rating are your tires? Try to get a sidewall marking for your stock and aftermarket tires (stock 14" usually contains "185/65/14"), verbatim, from your car's tire (or a pic). If you're willing to spend more $, you can get some good 16" rims with tires for anywhere from $700-1200 depending on your needs and tastes.

I recommend this size for daily driving, as you can: markedly increase the allowable width of your tire; find wheels available that are not much heavier than your stock rims+covers; have plenty of sidewall clearance for potholes; clear some chain-driven car wash machines; and partially compensate for dumbfuck beat-up pickup truck drivers who are too ******* stupid to tie their worthless **** down properly before they drive on public roads (sorry, had to vent). There are plenty of OEM and aftermarket wheels available in this size, both used and new, in many different bolt patterns.

If your rims are 17" or larger, pray that they don't discontinue them. For track or show purposes, do what you like. But for daily driving they are too easily bent and scratched, in my experience (and I'm.. um.. ****).

But just remember that no matter what kind of brakes you have, they don't stop your car (not directly). Rather, your brakes stop your wheel from turning. Improving your braking performance means removing of the wheel's kinetic energy more efficiently. This may or may not decrease your stopping distance, particularly if you skid... You don't want your brakes to outperform your tires.

Improving your tire's speed rating/stickiness will allow for more non-locking stopping ability. Increasing the size of your tire's contact patch will allow you to use more surface area of the tire to apply that stopping ability. Increasing the tire's load rating will allow for a more even load distribution throughout its contact patch, and less distortion while doing so.

If you're looking for improvements in handling (which includes stopping and launching), it's usually best to go from the ground up. What that means to you depends on what you already have. Just remember that if you change the size of your brakes, you need to get wheels big enough to clear them.

JasonGhostz

JasonGhostz

Since you already have new wheels & tires, maybe a suspension upgrade will help. Upgrading the suspension will help distribute the load under braking more evenly for the 4 corners of your car. If you're planning on stiffening the chassis, just beware of the potentially increased loads on your tires (under accleration, braking & cornering). I recommend running tires with a load rating of at least 84 for daily driving if you do this.

If you change your rear drums to discs, you might not need a new power booster/brake master cylinder. If you go with bigger rotors or upgrade your calipers (multiple/larger piston) , I HIGHLY recommend doing a thorough search on the right combo for the hydraulic parts, and buying them, since most aftermarket kits don't include the "perfect" hydraulic setup.

Of course, you can always buy different rotors, pads and shoes for your stock calipers/drums.

But I still think it comes down to tires. Then we can think about how hard we can stomp on the brakes before the wheels lock up.

But that's just me, and I hereby acknowledge any ignorance and inexperience...
JasonGhostz