danielfleenor

I own a bone stock (engine) eg6. When i start the car it idles fine but when i drive off and stop it surges maybe 1500-2000 (not sure tach dont work) It does that for a couple miles. After it rides a little its fine no surge. Some things to know. I bought the car and the guy said AC compressors bad. My brake pedal is really stiff. I press it and it only goes so far. I know that has something to do with vacuum. My question is what could cause this......thanks

its like when its cold it surges and when it warms up its fine..

Former User

Have you checked whether the vacuum hose that attaches to the brake booster is leaking or disconnected?

danielfleenor

nope haha i wanted to get everyones opinions before i start guessing and ****ing **** up...lol thanks

danielfleenor

would the AC compressor have anything to do with it?

Former User

Does the problem happen when you try to run the A/C? Is the CEL on?

danielfleenor

It's the same when the ac is off or on. No cel's

danielfleenor

What's the best way to check for a vacuum leak besides checking every single hose

Former User

First focus on the vacuum hose that runs from the brake booster to the intake manifold (see diagram). It may simply be disconnected, loose, or cracked.

Another possibility is that the brake booster itself has failed and is leaking.

danielfleenor

just checked that and its not cracked or anything

Former User

Test the brake booster as shown in the diagram.

danielfleenor

I just tested the brake booster by pressing the pedal and then starting it and the height didn't change! Now how do I check if it's the booster or check valve

danielfleenor

Would a cel come on for a check valve??

danielfleenor

Idk if this matters but I didn't pump the brakes until they got stiff I just pushed them in and then started it because it didn't say anything about pumping

Former User

Do steps 1 and 2 for the "Leak Test" and "Check Valve Test".

A bad check valve would not throw a CEL code.

danielfleenor

hey sorry it took a while been busy lately. I tried everything...

I did number 2 under function test. i didnt think i felt the pedal move.

i did leak test one and the pedal didnt vary.

then i did leak test number 2 and i pumped the pedal and it started rising til it wont move.

i did the check valve test and its got vacuum. im sooo lost

danielfleenor

i just tried function test number 2 again and when i just press the brakes all the way down and start it the pedal stays the same but when i pump it and it get to the point where it wont move and then i start it it slightly sinks.

danielfleenor

Someone should make a honda idle surge forum. Like what the symptoms r and how they fixed it!! that would save a lot of headaches haha HONDA-TECH make it happen!!

Former User

While driving, do you need to apply excessive force to the brake pedal to make the car stop?

danielfleenor

the pedal only goes so far. its not like the more u press it the harder u brake. i hit and it goes one spot and gradually stop from that position. its really hard to explain.

B18C5-EH2

If we assume the idle issue and the stiff brake pedal are not related, and that the brake booster doesn't have a vacuum leak that's causing an idle issue and the stiff pedal, then I'll offer the following:

1. Check your engine coolant level

Easiest, simplest, and cheapest reason why the engine would idle surge

2. Check the idle mixture screw to insure it's not backed out.

Easy enough. It's a flat screw on the TB itself, but it may be packed in with a RVT type sealant or Hondabond to prevent tampering. If the idle cannot be adjusted to smooth out by turning this screw in then go on to the next item.

3. Check the plate inside the fast idle valve

This valve is bolted to the underside of your throttle body, and there is a flat access panel that is held on with two phillips screws. You can loosen one screw, remove the other, and then flip the plate out of the way to expose the inside of the fast idle valve. You will want the big white plastic disc inside to be turned nearly all the way IN. If it's backed out it will cause a idle fluctuation once the engine is warm. Most of the 92-95 Civics that come in my shop with an idle fluctuation have a backed out FIV plate. Most of them have already replaced all kinds of crap too.

4. Check the electronic idle air control valve

The test usually involves unplugging the valve as the engine is already warm and surging. If the idle changes and stops surging while the IACV is unplugged then you'll need a new IACV. Careful though as this is the #1 misdiagnosed cause of idle problems.

5. This could be done towards the beginning or end of these steps, but check for a vacuum leak.

Listen for any hissing. Spray carb/choke cleaner around any vacuum areas such as around the intake manifold, brake booster, etc. If the idle chokes down or rises then you've got a vacuum leak whereever the carb cleaner being sprayed changes the idle

Former User

^I'd have to agree. Based on the new information from the OP, the brake and idle problem now seem unrelated.

JDM_Frijoles

I got money saying its his IACV or the 'little do-hickey" on the back of your Intake Manifold. Those thigs get dirty and send fukked up signals too your ECU.


ORLY? 0.o

B18C5-EH2

Usually a bad IACV (the electronic one with a plug) will throw its own check engine code though. Like I said before in my post earlier:

littleblue

Does it seem as if you are braking harder then you actually are? Almost as soon as you hit the brakes, not even a inch of depressing it? (It feels as if you are pressing the brake to brake hard, when you are actually slowing down slowly) I'm having the same problem with my brakes. Along with a surging idle. But It only happens when the idle goes up then I have brake problems, do you have similar symptoms?

danielfleenor

I had this problem in my old hatch but as soon as I started it it began surging and after a while it would stop. I messed with all that's listed above and still nothing. Such a pain in the ***