idle problem
#1
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idle problem
i have idle problem with my car
it's just going up and down like crazy
not only idle but when im driving still does that
i have air/fuel guage and its just going up and down
i think it's the idle control valve but i dont think so
it's in perfect condition
when i drive sometimes.. it gets back to normal
but this happens when i have luck
please help wut to do
thanks
it's just going up and down like crazy
not only idle but when im driving still does that
i have air/fuel guage and its just going up and down
i think it's the idle control valve but i dont think so
it's in perfect condition
when i drive sometimes.. it gets back to normal
but this happens when i have luck
please help wut to do
thanks
#3
Re: idle problem (kihun_cha)
when my car bounced between 1 to 2k...it ended up being my TPS, throttle positioning sensor. Your car is fairly new...so wont think it would be that...so check to make sure the harness to it is secure. That would be the first thing i would check.
#5
Re: (kihun_cha)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kihun_cha »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well usally my idle is at 1.4k and now its going .6k to 2k...pissin me off when im driving..</TD></TR></TABLE>
1.4k?
1.4k?
#7
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titaniun valves & valve springs
OEM retainers
injen air intake
dc sports headers 4-2-1
bronze valve guides
Integra type R cams
AEM cam gears
Oem timing belt
milled head
Civic Type R 12 : 1 compression pistons
Spoon piston rings
Mugen head gasket
JDM over-sized V-Tec solenoid
Jackson Racing fuel filter
AEM fuel rail, Integra Type R 310cc fuel injectors
Integra Type R oversized radiator
BBK 70mm throttle body
Skunk 2 intake manifold
Spoon Sports thermostat
JDM GSR transmission with OEM Hellcat limited slip differential
ACT Stage 5 clutch
ACT aluminum flywheel
MSD SCI ignition
MSD Blaster coil,
MSD distributor cap
Iridium spark plugs
NGK sparl plug wires
OEM Honda N1 crank pulley
AEM under-drive pulley
DC 4 to 1 ceramic header
Jackson Racing test pipe
2.5 inch stainless steel exhaust with 5 ZIGEN rear section.
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#8
Re: (kihun_cha)
IMO...its something to do with your throttle body or intake manifold. Check all the hoses and vacuum lines to make sure theres no leaks. If you removed the intake mani without replacing the gasket...that could be your problem.
#12
Re: idle problem (kihun_cha)
Like what every is saying. When you took off your mani did you replace the gasket? It could also be a vacumm leak. But then I wouldn't really know. There's a lot of things that could cause this kind of thing. I remember when my car use to do that. It was because I had a loose battery terminal. Also my throttle cable screw got messed around with which also caused a high idle. I don't know if you understand what I'm saying. But just trying to help.
#15
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Re: (kihun_cha)
Holy chit! Same problem here except now my car doesn't even run at all. It use to run fine and then all of a sudden it dies. I don't know if this applies to you because you're not boosted but check out my ongoing thread here:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=921554
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=921554
#21
Re: (dyno1208)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dyno1208 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1.4k is kinda high at idle. It should be between .6 to 1k. Whats all done to the motor?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The higher the idle, the better acceleration on the mid to top end of the rpm range in the first 3 gears. Sacrifices max speed, though. Sounds silly but it's true.
The higher the idle, the better acceleration on the mid to top end of the rpm range in the first 3 gears. Sacrifices max speed, though. Sounds silly but it's true.
#23
Re: (dyno1208)
I agree with Dyno here. Only 2 things can be causing erratic cycling of your idle speeds. One would be faulty programming login in the ECU but that cant be possible for you because have rebooted your ECU and your car does not display any permanent symptoms of idle problems. The problem which is most likely is a failure of your TPS in your throttle body. What happens there is that your valve may be open to 80 percent throttle in the throttle body but the sensor(TPS) itself is reading only 20 percent throttle. So in turn the car would try to rev the engine itself to get it to open up even if the valve is open to 80 percent already. This would actually make the car do senseless throttling which doesnt impose a serious physical problem to the engine but more of a nuissance to you. If the problem lasts even longer and isnt corrected your throttle bodies valve may be excessively worn out or may prematurely fail from the improper throttling. The only way to correct this problem is to replace the TPS because it is a microchip and when microchips fail they cannot be repaired. A lot of cars have the TPS built into a module which is attached to the throttle body itself and can only be replaced as an entire unit making it a very costly repair. Your best bet is to get one from a junkyard, a used unit on maybe ebay or a forum, or buy it rebuilt. I mean you can be told to check the cable but a tight cable would not erratically cause revs to the engine unless it has a mind of its own. Its all about the electronics. What happened to those days of when cars were not controlled by electronic brains?
#25
Re: (kihun_cha)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kihun_cha »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i heard honda power gears are 1st to 3rd gear</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah thats pretty much right. Lack of torque after the third gear.
Yeah thats pretty much right. Lack of torque after the third gear.