4g4me

I know that they are xpensive, but to start with that kind of power. I may get a b16, or a gsr , and spend $$$ trying to achive type r power. My 92 cx would love to be driven by those ponies. I really don't want to do turbo, or the lackluster supercharger thing, and nitrous is great, but I want the power all the time.

I would appreciate opinions, don't tell me what you have is better either.

AKA: "forget C5, get the lsvtec, or b20 turbo" -boring

I want a high revving N/A monster out of the box. C5 maybe the way to go.

4g4me

AND this is NOT a VS. post either, I just want some friendly thoughts.

hybrider

B18C5 usdm price? 5-5.5k

B18C1 usdm price? 3-3.5k

thats nearly 2,000 dollars saved...can anyone say JRSC?

nuff said

TeamSlowdotOrg

I'd stay with the B18C1 unless I could get a killer deal on the R powerplant.

owen_the_soyboy

there are other more powerful options you know.... http://www.importbuilders.com can set you up big time for a monster setup capable of daily driving abuse. that is what I am looking into right now... a better-than-ITR-setup for the same cost, and brand NEW not an ITR swap that who knows what has been done too it before

otherwise, stick with the R motor. there really is no contest as far as reliability.

hybridreams

Or just a good deal

Name

The B18c5 is about the same as the b18c1 except the c5 is a built head and lsd tranny i have a 92 hatch with a c5 and I will run mid to high 8's in the 8th mile.
The Type R is Anywhere from 5000 to 6000 without install usually and the gsr is about 3000 to 4000. but you will spend another 2000 for a built head and lsd. Its preference.

allmtr

well if you want to autocross or road race, the R would be well worth it. the lsd and close gearing come in handy. also dont forget the built head and 11:1 CR. you may be able to make a gsr go faster in the 1/4 mile with the 2000 dollars you saved, but it wont be as good all around. you will spend way more getting the gsr to be as good on the track and strip.

gsrvx

Hell, if you can afford a C5....go for it!!

-rod

dscivicdx

like the man said... if you want it, get it

blykins

Pedro shows me what he thinks of me and my R

Qwikrex

Ok heres a question. I have a 2000 Si. Would it be worth the money to upgrade to a B18C1 or would it be a wiser choice to upgrade to a C5. OR should I just stick with my B16 and work with what I have?

Mike_C

Stick with B16 until you find an amazing deal on one of the others.

.nate

Why swap when you could use the money that you would of spent on a swap on preformance mods that will most likely make you faster then the b18c...

b18c IMO... best bang for your buck. the c5 is more of a bragging rights motor IMO...

allmtr

get a higher displacement block

blykins

Your car is pretty heavy, i mean it would be alot better to sell it and but a 92-95 hatch, then do a GSR or type R swap, you'd be going much faster than if you put it in the 2000 Si.

jdmciviceg

I would go with the Type R. If you went with the B18C1, an LSD installed is $1000-$1200 alone. Not to mention the HP difference between the C1 and C5. To get the C1 to the power of the C5, it would probably cost you as much or more then the C5 would have cost you originally. I'm happy with mine and like they said already, can't beat it for dependablilty.

B18C5-EH2

I have onwed all 3 of the normal VTEC swaps.

B16A2
B18C1
B18C5

My B18C1 dynoed at 150whp, 122ft/lbs. torque with all bolt-ons.
My B18C5 dynoed at 175whp, 123ft/lbs. torque with just an intake, exhaust, and re-chipped P28.

I can tell you right now that there is no contest when it comes to the driving experience all around wqhen I compare the 3 swaps.

I used to think that you could just buy a B18C1 swap and "build it better than an ITR motor" like many people say, but when you consider ALL things there's no way to duplicate a B18C5 from a B18C1.

What are ALL things?

B18C5 has the following that B18C1 doesn't:

1. Better head with totally different casting. P30 vs. P72. P30 has been proven to outflow the P72.

2. Better intake manifold. Tike and again the Type R or "Skunk 2" manifolds have been proven to make more power up top than the dual butterfly GS-R manifold.

3. Better cams.

4. Better valvetrain.

5. Anti-friction coated pistons with higher domes for more CR.

6. Light, stronger rods

7. Different crank

Light flywheel

8. Hand port and polish (although mild) on the ITR head from Honda.

9. Different oil pump. *Probably* better too. Honda does wierd **** like that.

There's more I'm sure, but you get the point.
Now what about the TRANNY?

No comparison as far as I'm concerned.

Better, closer gearing means quicker acceleration. This is better for all-motor or near-stock motor's cars.

LSD!!! That **** is awesome in corners and improves launching a bit too.

Please do the math on all of that **** listed above and tell me you can build a B18C5 from a B18C1 for cheaper than $4,800 for the COMPLETE Type R swap from:

http://www.hondamotorsonline.com

The B18C5 has gone down in price - they are NOT the $6,500 "rip-off" that they used to be. (Never was a rip-off really)

This all coming from someone who has had both the B18C1 and B18C5 in the SAME car.

Let me also mention THE most important aspect of all of this:

When you get the B18C5, you get a quality, REALIABLE HONDA ENGINE BUILD which IMO cannot be duplicated. All these B20/VTECs and built B18C1s are trulky bad-***, but they still allow for human error much more so than a factory-built B18C5. I will never touch my B18C5's bottom end until it smokes, which may be very long from now.

I hope that might shed some light on your decision.

[Modified by B18C5-EH2, 2:24 AM 5/2/2002]


[Modified by B18C5-EH2, 2:41 AM 5/2/2002]

mantic6t9

damn i wonder how much they want for that b20/vtec swap. sounds bad ***.

Bumnah

i'd buy a blown b18c1 block, b16 head, and b18c1 tranny.

rebuild it, and boost it.
in the end if you wanna haul ***, us honda's need the snail under the hood.

and say bye bye to the b18c5.

the type r motor is good, but it's not a god send.

b18c1 4 me.

Jonathan_ED3

try 12.5 grand. without tranny, knock off 1.2K. that's still 11 GRAND. but if you got the money, get it

blykins

Rebuilding and boosting cost $$$ then you have the reliabity issue also w/ FI. To me, if it didnt come w/ it from the factory, it wasnt meant to be.


[Modified by blykins, 3:06 AM 5/2/2002]

Jonathan_ED3

no, no you can't get a better than R setup for the same cost....i've already looked into it. by the time you add the tranny and all the 'extras' you would get by buying a complete b18c5 package, you go a LOT over the $4800 you can find an R for.

hybrider

well the SI weighs as much as an ITR.....plus he can sell his b16 for around 3k even, and add some for a C5 swap. IMO from high 15s to high 14's with jut the swap is pretty impressive....even a b18c1 swap, since they both cost the same,would be a good idea to trade for, you`ll be getting an extra 10hp and of course an extra 1.8L to modify with 17lbs-ft trq more !




[Modified by hybrider93, 7:49 PM 5/1/2002]

gshockbreaker

Well... I'm thinking about buying an engine... I was going to go for a B16A and build it... but I think I'm going with the GSR engines, but after hearing you, I might just want to take that extra step and go ITR!! what you think?? B/C I'm probaby going to buy a 92 Hatch for like $2,500 and I would have like $5,000 left over... should I got ITR?? But I would need to upgrade suspension too!


[Modified by gshockbreaker, 10:43 PM 5/1/2002]