Will62185

I got a skunk 2 lower tie bar for christmas waiting to be installed. How do you go about doing this? Any tips, steps, and or pics. Any help at all is greatly appreciated. Thanks -Will

Edit: Btw: Its a 96' Civic Ex

TurboBumblBee

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Will62185 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I got a skunk 2 lower tie bar for christmas waiting to be installed. How do you go about doing this? Any tips, steps, and or pics. Any help at all is greatly appreciated. Thanks -Will

Edit: Btw: Its a 96' Civic Ex </TD></TR></TABLE>

use this link to help you out..
https://honda-tech.com/zerosearch

damn noobie.. search before asking

chad

undo 2 14 mm bolts....slide in and redo the 14 mm bolts

Will62185

If you cant help me why say anything at all? And I have searched I didnt find anything helpfull. Also thanks for calling me a n00b even though ive been here almost as long as you.

Thanks for helping me!

-Will

AzntaggeR

like stated above..you take out the two 14 mm bolts that connect the LCA to the subframe. then you put the rear tie bar in place with the two 14 mm bolts that should come with skunk2 rear tie bar.

heres the hard part...i don't know about yours but mine didn't come pre-adjusted so you have to turn the ends until the holes line up with the holes on the frame and lca. this should take you 20-30 minutes.

the redsquare forecast

Haha, you called someone that has been here over 500 days a n00b.

Like said above, the only problems you will run into is the adjusting...not even a problem just takes a little time.

Will62185

the main problem im having is, its taking forever for the bolt to tighten up. When i thought it was getting tighter, I pulled on it and the bolt came right out. What are the things that came with the bolts? I have no clue. And when you mean "heres the hard part...i don't know about yours but mine didn't come pre-adjusted so you have to turn the ends until the holes line up with the holes on the frame and lca" Do you mean the two small wholes next to the bigger whole on that sub frame and lca?
Thanks guys. -Will =P

tyflip2

what he means is that you have to adjust the length of the bar itself and by twisting one of the sides it makes the bar longer or shorter so that it lines up with both the holes on the LCA's. A problem that i had wasthe LCA not lining up with the holes so i had to move the tire and the lca all around to get them to line up.if you keep twisting it and it doesnt do anyhting then you may need to push the bolt in a little further. this was also another one of my problems so what i did was hit it a little with a hammer lightly then turn it. i hope that makes sense

Will62185

That helps a ton! thanks. I will do it monday. One last question what are the 4 things that comes with the bolts, i still cant figure what they are or what they do?

Thanks guys -Will

Street Ghost

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Will62185 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That helps a ton! thanks. I will do it monday. One last question what are the 4 things that comes with the bolts, i still cant figure what they are or what they do?

Thanks guys -Will </TD></TR></TABLE>

washers? what four "things"? gotta be more specific.

elevatethis

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Will62185 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the main problem im having is, its taking forever for the bolt to tighten up. When i thought it was getting tighter, I pulled on it and the bolt came right out. What are the things that came with the bolts? I have no clue. And when you mean "heres the hard part...i don't know about yours but mine didn't come pre-adjusted so you have to turn the ends until the holes line up with the holes on the frame and lca" Do you mean the two small wholes next to the bigger whole on that sub frame and lca?
Thanks guys. -Will =P </TD></TR></TABLE>

this is where a rubber mallet helps....same thing was happening with my boy's prelude.......hit the holy crap out of the bolt and keep turning it, it will go in. I dont know why this happens, but just take your frustration out on the bolt and you'll be finished before you can say "#@&@^&*@#^@^$@$#."

Will62185

Those are the things i am talking about, it came with two bolts, and 4 of those. Two big two small. How do those get attached?

Will62185

So basically your saying beat the crap out of it.

-Will

locass316

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Will62185 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So basically your saying beat the crap out of it.

-Will </TD></TR></TABLE>
only do that to make the bolt catch.

Steve_O

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Will62185 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Those are the things i am talking about, it came with two bolts, and 4 of those. Two big two small. How do those get attached? </TD></TR></TABLE>

I have one on my EG and here's what I figured out to help make things a snap after much cursing and hammer pounding to get evrything to line up and go in. Hope I explain this well enough and that it hepls you out.

go to the dealership (or junkyard) and ask/get a bolt from the rear compensator arm (i'll herein refer to it as the compensator bolt). it should have a flat end to it as opposed to the pointed self-guiding end of the LCA bolts. make sure the bolt you get is somewhat short and has a 14mm head on it and is flat ended like the bolts that some with the skunk2 kit

next, you thread the compensator bolt in from the backside of the LCA hole through the nut that's welded to the back of the subframe. you may have to play with the LCA to get the bolt started but once it's in the LCA bushing sleeve keep going far enough in so it holds everything there.

now...start the Skunk2 long bolt in from the front of the LCA bolt hole and tap it in with a brass hammer until you feel it contact the compensator bolt which you put in from the other side. the compensator bolt being threaded into the nut keeps it from moving and the tapping noise will change and sound more solid when the bolts contact each other.

now all you have to do it slowly unscrew the compensator bolt with a ratchet while simultaneously tapping the Skunk2 bolt through from the front with your brass hammer so it follows the compensator bolt out. if you make sure the bolts always stay in contact with each other and it's done slowly and patiently, the Skunk2 bolt and the compensator bolt should line everything up as they go through right to the nut on the subframe. all that left to do is start ratcheting the Skunk2 bolt into the nut on the subframe and tighten everything down.

ASLO....the parts you have pictured are used to bring the tie bar out away from the subframe so it can clear it. there are two short ones and two taller ones. the tall ones are installed in the ends and they should be on the subframe side of the of the tie bar and the short ones are instaleled on the bolt head side of the ends AWAY from the tie bar. they are machined to oly fit in one way into the tie bar ends. the pic below will show you what i mean

Sorry for using a ripped subframe pic, it's the only one i could find with a close up of the Skunk2 bar


Modified by 519RACING at 5:31 AM 1/7/2004


Modified by 519RACING at 5:33 AM 1/7/2004

Street Ghost

ouch.. do u know how the sub frame got ripped like that?

GReddy SI

iTrader: (1)

mines is still good . i have the same one skunk2

TurboBumblBee

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Will62185 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you cant help me why say anything at all? And I have searched I didnt find anything helpfull. Also thanks for calling me a n00b even though ive been here almost as long as you.

Thanks for helping me!

-Will </TD></TR></TABLE>

im not starting things at all.. maybe i jumped the gun on calling you a noobie.. youve been signed up for 500 days and you dont know what a tie bar is or how its installed??? come on man we can just put this thread to rest cause theres no need for anything back and fourth were all grown men working on our cars.. you got your answers and i hope the tie bar works great for you.. amen

Steve_O

It got ripped out because they were using a large ITR rear sway bar. I guess that happends wuite alot from what i've been reading because the rear subframe on the Hondas isn't really strong enough for the large ITR sway bar. I'm hoping I don't have the same problem with the rear sway bar I wat to buy.

The pic is from a thread elsewhere on H-T here. There's kits they make that are supposed to prevent that but apparently that kit was being used on theta car from what the thread was saying.

I have the gunmteal Skunk2 lower tie bar as well and I'm trying to find out if a Skunk2 rear sway bar will work together with the tie bar because just going by eye it looks like the tie bar would block or interfere with where the sway bar pivots mounts to on the subframe.

i'm waiting for emails from the subframe reinforcement company as well as Skunk2

slpr_rex

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 519RACING &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I have one on my EG and here's what I figured out to help make things a snap after much cursing and hammer pounding to get evrything to line up and go in. Hope I explain this well enough and that it hepls you out.

go to the dealership (or junkyard) and ask/get a bolt from the rear compensator arm (i'll herein refer to it as the compensator bolt). it should have a flat end to it as opposed to the pointed self-guiding end of the LCA bolts. make sure the bolt you get is somewhat short and has a 14mm head on it and is flat ended like the bolts that some with the skunk2 kit

next, you thread the compensator bolt in from the backside of the LCA hole through the nut that's welded to the back of the subframe. you may have to play with the LCA to get the bolt started but once it's in the LCA bushing sleeve keep going far enough in so it holds everything there.

now...start the Skunk2 long bolt in from the front of the LCA bolt hole and tap it in with a brass hammer until you feel it contact the compensator bolt which you put in from the other side. the compensator bolt being threaded into the nut keeps it from moving and the tapping noise will change and sound more solid when the bolts contact each other.

now all you have to do it slowly unscrew the compensator bolt with a ratchet while simultaneously tapping the Skunk2 bolt through from the front with your brass hammer so it follows the compensator bolt out. if you make sure the bolts always stay in contact with each other and it's done slowly and patiently, the Skunk2 bolt and the compensator bolt should line everything up as they go through right to the nut on the subframe. all that left to do is start ratcheting the Skunk2 bolt into the nut on the subframe and tighten everything down.

ASLO....the parts you have pictured are used to bring the tie bar out away from the subframe so it can clear it. there are two short ones and two taller ones. the tall ones are installed in the ends and they should be on the subframe side of the of the tie bar and the short ones are instaleled on the bolt head side of the ends AWAY from the tie bar. they are machined to oly fit in one way into the tie bar ends. the pic below will show you what i mean

Sorry for using a ripped subframe pic, it's the only one i could find with a close up of the Skunk2 bar


Modified by 519RACING at 5:31 AM 1/7/2004


Modified by 519RACING at 5:33 AM 1/7/2004</TD></TR></TABLE>


hey man i could not see the pic of that torn subframe, which i think would really help me out ...... im installing the same rear lower tie bar on my rex...

and also if you don't mind could you explain the whole use of the <U>4 cone</U> like things and where thet go??? it would be a great help. THANKS-mark

WangChung

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Will62185 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you cant help me why say anything at all? And I have searched I didnt find anything helpfull. Also thanks for calling me a n00b even though ive been here almost as long as you.

Thanks for helping me!

-Will </TD></TR></TABLE>

Holy ****!!! u've been on this board for 514 days and you cant figure out how to install a lower tie-bar?! thats just . . . just plain sad bro.

Steve_O

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slpr_rex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


hey man i could not see the pic of that torn subframe, which i think would really help me out ...... im installing the same rear lower tie bar on my rex...

and also if you don't mind could you explain the whole use of the <U>4 cone</U> like things and where thet go??? it would be a great help. THANKS-mark</TD></TR></TABLE>

The four metal spacers (what you referred to as "cones") go into the pivoting links at the ends of the tie bar to bring the bar so it clears the ends of the subframe. two of them will be taller/longer than the other two. the tall one goes on the backside of the endlink between the subframe and the tie bar. the short one goes on the frontside between the bolt head and the link. the ends of the cones will be machined so they fit into the swivel ***** on the endlinks of the tie bar. they'll only fit in one way.

Here's hte pic below


Sorry for the bad grammar in the pic. went snowboarding all day yesterday and i'm beat this morning

I believe the backside spacer in the above pic is from the Tie-Bar Adapter adapter kit that comes with the Beak's Subframe Reinforcement Kit. The skunk2 one will be different obviously but performs the same duty of bringing the tie-bar away so it will clear the subframe lips.

Also, it's worth mentioning that if you have polyurethane bushings, or some type of aftermarket poly hardened bushing, lining everything up will be noticeably more difficult (all of my Civic's rubber OEM bushings throughout the car have been replaced by Energy Suspension ones). The OEM rubber bushings have much more play and give to them allowing you to work the suspension pieces around to get holes or brackets to line up. Poly bushings like the ones you get in Energy Suspension kits are alot harder and have very little play than OEM (which is what they're designed to do) so lining up bolt holes is a task in itself, especially when the bolts you have to use aren't the OEM Honda self-guiding one (pointed ends). When I figured out the little trick above to get the Skunk2 bar bolts in i was happy because it saved alot of hassle and headache.

Not to mention Captain Profanity makes appearances much less often now when i'm wrenching under the car


Modified by 519RACING at 10:46 AM 1/19/2004