ScuderiaFerrari

Well as you can see I am new here(NOOB) and know nothing about suspention work... but I am trying. What I need to know is what steps I need to take to replace the inner tie rod on the front driver side of my 94' Civic Ex 4dr. It would be greatly appriciated if someone could help me out. Thanks in advance.

K I T T

I think you mean the "rack-end". The tie-rod end is on the outer part near to the tire.

Well to I suggest you just bring the car to a shop coz you'll have to re-align the wheels anyway. DIY and you will mess up the alignment and ruin your tires.

ScuderiaFerrari

Uh... its the inner tie rod, thats the part I bought thats the part thats loose. Unless thats the same part your talking about... why would you think I ment the "rack-end". Its the part with the boot around it(well the boots torn on mine but it should have the boot around it).

Nameless RB26

Tie rods are the pieces that connect to the knuckle.. there is one ball joint on the end of each one. No boots, just a sealed rubber grease filled ball joint. Established.

If this is what you're talking about:

Ok, now you can do it without ******* up the alignment if you make sure the stopper bolt is in the same position as it was before. I've done this many times and it's not a big deal.. you don't need an alignment.

To get your old tie rod off you may need a tie rod separator. They're like 15$ at Napa I think. They look like a barbecue fork, you wedge it between the tie ball joint and hit the end with a hammer. Sometimes you don't have to do this though, you can just loosen the bolt on the ball joint and bring it close to the end of the threads and hit it with a hammer.

Hopefully that helps you if that's what you're trying to do.

TallAssFilipino

Don't use a pickle fork. That thing sucks for seperating ball joints. Does some damage to the rubber boot/seal. Even if you are going to replace to a new one, because you'll use that same tool the next time you need to seperate the ball joint/tie rod end.

Use a pitman arm remover. Make sure to put the castle nut or another nut on first...


or a tie rod end/ball joint lifter like this (which has worked best for me)...


And if you're going to remove the ball joint from the steering knuckle, use this ball joint press kit to remove/install...


To make it easier, use the Honda lower ball - joint adapter kit...



Modified by JDM JNKI at 8:16 PM 10/20/2004


Modified by JDM JNKI at 5:42 PM 10/22/2004

Nameless RB26

If you use the right side of the pickle fork it will not damage it.

And besides, he's replacing... doesn't matter if they're damaged.

EE_Chris

The outer tie-rod, the piece that attaches to the knuckle - you ever notice how if you disconnect it from the knuckle, its allowed to swivel about?? That's because there IS an inner tie-rod that attaches to the steering rack.



Part #1 is what he wants to replace.

As for replacement - Helms + alignment.

TouringAccord

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM JNKI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
or a tie rod end/ball joint lifter like this (which has worked best for me)...

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Do you know where you can buy one of these? Or a link to a site or something?

Thanks

TallAssFilipino

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TouringAccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Do you know where you can buy one of these? Or a link to a site or something?

Thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

DRAPER is pretty hard to find on U.S. websites. I think they were produced in Europe. I got lucky and found mine on eBay a long while back. But here is one from OTC. They make a lot of automotive tools and I'm pretty satisfied with their products.

http://www.drivewerks.com/cata...9.htm

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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nameless RB26 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you use the right side of the pickle fork it will not damage it.

And besides, he's replacing... doesn't matter if they're damaged.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's why I said this...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM JNKI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Even if you are going to replace to a new one, because you'll use that same tool the next time you need to seperate the ball joint/tie rod end.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

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He may need to seperate his ball joint/tie rod end for some other reason other than to replace the ball joint. And if he used the same tool for that next time, he'll ruin the boot/seal then.


Modified by JDM JNKI at 5:56 PM 10/22/2004

letmeseeyouskip

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM JNKI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
or a tie rod end/ball joint lifter like this (which has worked best for me)...


Modified by JDM JNKI at 5:42 PM 10/22/2004</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah i got one of those damn they cost grip


Modified by letmeseeyouskip at 6:39 PM 10/22/2004

johnzm

u guys havent ever done inner tie rods before?

u gotta have the special "tool" a god quality one is the lisle brand at pep boys.

its the inner tie rod tool. use it to remove your inner tie rod

TallAssFilipino

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by johnzm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">u guys havent ever done inner tie rods before?

u gotta have the special "tool" a god quality one is the lisle brand at pep boys.

its the inner tie rod tool. use it to remove your inner tie rod
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've taken the inner tie rod out before without that "special tool", when I switched mine from my Si to my DX.

The pipe-type tool for removing the inner tie rod requires that you remove the outer tie rod first. I like my crowfoot ratchet tool better as you don't have to remove the outer tie rod. Less time.