How-To: HomeLink Installation
06-06-2006, 09:04 AM
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How-To: HomeLink Installation
I inquired about a HomeLink installation in the Civic recently, and did not get any feedback. With what seemed like a seemingly simply install, I went ahead and ordered up a set of used visors with the HomeLink system installed. I purchased visor from a 1999 Plymouth Voyager. For those not family with HomeLink it is a radio frequency transeiver that can be programmed to operate remote gararge door openers, and other radio frequency controlled toys. It is generally integrated into the visors as original equipment on many vehicles now. It is powered by the car's electrical system, so batteries are not needed, and eliminates the need for unsightly remotes clipped to you visor, or in you console, etc.
First things first. A few things to note when buying your HomeLink transeiver. To my knowledge there are basically three different choices (aside from color and style). Option A) is the older HomeLink (pre-96) which does not accommodate the newer rolling codes on a 96+ model garage door openers. Option B) is the newer HomeLink (post-96) which can be programmed for rolling codes and finally Option C) which is the newer HomeLink which also incorporates a voice recorder for making personal notes. I have seen the HomeLink transiever in black, tan and grey and in many different shades of each. Most all are the style I have, but VW/Audi seem to use a larger unit, at least the part you see. Look around and make your decision.
Next procedure is to remove the transeiver from the visors. First gently remove the Bezel from from HomeLink transeiver. There are two fasteners just outside of the outer buttons. Reference the photo. From here this is simply a exercise in demolition. I used a razor blade to cut and remove the outer material. Next, came screwdrivers, hammers, prybars, and rotary cutting tools to remove the transeiver from the visor. I tried to salvage as much of the wiring as I could, but it really was not necessary.
Now that that transeiver is removed I would recommend temporarily wiring it to your battery and programming it to confirm its operational and will operate your intended device before cutting into your own car. Note that the white wire is positive. The transeiver does not work if the polarity is reversed, but did not seem to cause any harm if you do accidently wire the polarity reversed. Ask me how I know.
If you look over the transeiver, my original intention was to simply drill some holes in my headliner for the button pad and bezel fasteners, allowing me to sandwich the headliner between the transeiver module and the bezel. That would have been too easy. Unfortunately the headliner is too thick to accommodate this simply installation, so I had to make some modifications to the transeiver module. Note that they are ugly, and look even worse in the photos from all the headliner debris on it from trial fitting. I used a dremel tool fitted with a very thin metal cutting disc. I then cut away some of the transeiver housing to allow the "button portion" of the housing to protrude through a hole in my headliner. I used to rubber button pad as a template for both the hole in my headliner and the cutting of the transeiver module. This allowed me to sandwich the headliner between the transeiver module and the bezel. You can now finish off the transeiver modifications by adding about 3 ft of wire to the wiring harness for the transeiver. I recommend soldering and heat shrink for the best reliability.
Now lets "tear" into the headliner. I would recommend loosening or removing the visors (Torx required). Next remove the dome light fixture (philips only). Remove the rearview mirror (philips only). You may need a small screwdriver to remove the outer cover on the mirror mount. Next are the visor clips, located just on either side of the mirror. Now these guys had me stumped for awhile, but if you look through the front windshield from the outside, you will see a small forward facing slot in the visor clips. Use a small screwdriver to depress a lock and then rotate the clips 90 degrees and they should come right out. This should give you the access you need to insert the HomeLink transeiver.
Next step and the most scary is to start cutting into your headliner. As noted above I used the rubber button pad as a template for my hole size. Make sure you position the bezel where you want it and more importantly make sure the transeiver module will fit flush against the top side of the headliner in the desired position. I started by using a razor blade to cut away the headliner material, as this would avoid snagging and ripping the headliner fabric. Next I used a drill to make some starter holes and then started grinding my hole with a dremel and small abrasive bit.
Once the hole is finished you can trial fit your HomeLink transeiver and bezel. If all fits, then you are home free. All that remains is to wire this thing up. The HomeLink transeiver only needs power. You can get power from the dome light. I used a "fishing tape" to run my wires through the headliner. Recall that the white wire on the transeiver needs positive (+) 12VDC. The other wire can be grounded anywhere on the car. When you pulled the dome light you will notice two wires. They are both Positive (+) 12VDC. The difference is when they are 12VDC. The white and orage wire is the one you want to use. It has power all the time, whereas the other only has power when the door is open. Wire to your preference. Reverse installation on domelight, visors, visors clips and mirror and you should be good to go.
My wifes car fortunately has the HomeLink system, so I had an instruction manual to reference. But programming the HomeLink is pretty simple. Press and hold the outer two buttons for about 20-30 seconds to clear the memory. To program a button simply hold the desired button on the HomeLink and the button on your garage remote at the same time. The light on the HomeLink will blink slowly then fast once its programmed. This should only take a few seconds. If the HomeLink appears to have been learned your remote, but still does not function, then you most likely have a rolling code garage door opener. You will need to activate the 'training mode' on your garage door unit itself. You may need to reference your garage door manual for this, mind was a simply red button, which triggered a light to come on for about a minute or so. While your garage door unit is in training mode, press both the programmed button on your homelink and on your remote simultaneously for a couple seconds. Repeat several times, eventually it should pick up your rolling code.
I am recalling this from memory, so I will try and fill in some details later. Also, for whatever reason all my photos were not uploaded, so more photos will come.
Modified by BryanPendleton at 7:00 PM 6/7/2006
Modified by BryanPendleton at 6:23 AM 6/8/2006
First things first. A few things to note when buying your HomeLink transeiver. To my knowledge there are basically three different choices (aside from color and style). Option A) is the older HomeLink (pre-96) which does not accommodate the newer rolling codes on a 96+ model garage door openers. Option B) is the newer HomeLink (post-96) which can be programmed for rolling codes and finally Option C) which is the newer HomeLink which also incorporates a voice recorder for making personal notes. I have seen the HomeLink transiever in black, tan and grey and in many different shades of each. Most all are the style I have, but VW/Audi seem to use a larger unit, at least the part you see. Look around and make your decision.
Next procedure is to remove the transeiver from the visors. First gently remove the Bezel from from HomeLink transeiver. There are two fasteners just outside of the outer buttons. Reference the photo. From here this is simply a exercise in demolition. I used a razor blade to cut and remove the outer material. Next, came screwdrivers, hammers, prybars, and rotary cutting tools to remove the transeiver from the visor. I tried to salvage as much of the wiring as I could, but it really was not necessary.
Now that that transeiver is removed I would recommend temporarily wiring it to your battery and programming it to confirm its operational and will operate your intended device before cutting into your own car. Note that the white wire is positive. The transeiver does not work if the polarity is reversed, but did not seem to cause any harm if you do accidently wire the polarity reversed. Ask me how I know.
If you look over the transeiver, my original intention was to simply drill some holes in my headliner for the button pad and bezel fasteners, allowing me to sandwich the headliner between the transeiver module and the bezel. That would have been too easy. Unfortunately the headliner is too thick to accommodate this simply installation, so I had to make some modifications to the transeiver module. Note that they are ugly, and look even worse in the photos from all the headliner debris on it from trial fitting. I used a dremel tool fitted with a very thin metal cutting disc. I then cut away some of the transeiver housing to allow the "button portion" of the housing to protrude through a hole in my headliner. I used to rubber button pad as a template for both the hole in my headliner and the cutting of the transeiver module. This allowed me to sandwich the headliner between the transeiver module and the bezel. You can now finish off the transeiver modifications by adding about 3 ft of wire to the wiring harness for the transeiver. I recommend soldering and heat shrink for the best reliability.
Now lets "tear" into the headliner. I would recommend loosening or removing the visors (Torx required). Next remove the dome light fixture (philips only). Remove the rearview mirror (philips only). You may need a small screwdriver to remove the outer cover on the mirror mount. Next are the visor clips, located just on either side of the mirror. Now these guys had me stumped for awhile, but if you look through the front windshield from the outside, you will see a small forward facing slot in the visor clips. Use a small screwdriver to depress a lock and then rotate the clips 90 degrees and they should come right out. This should give you the access you need to insert the HomeLink transeiver.
Next step and the most scary is to start cutting into your headliner. As noted above I used the rubber button pad as a template for my hole size. Make sure you position the bezel where you want it and more importantly make sure the transeiver module will fit flush against the top side of the headliner in the desired position. I started by using a razor blade to cut away the headliner material, as this would avoid snagging and ripping the headliner fabric. Next I used a drill to make some starter holes and then started grinding my hole with a dremel and small abrasive bit.
Once the hole is finished you can trial fit your HomeLink transeiver and bezel. If all fits, then you are home free. All that remains is to wire this thing up. The HomeLink transeiver only needs power. You can get power from the dome light. I used a "fishing tape" to run my wires through the headliner. Recall that the white wire on the transeiver needs positive (+) 12VDC. The other wire can be grounded anywhere on the car. When you pulled the dome light you will notice two wires. They are both Positive (+) 12VDC. The difference is when they are 12VDC. The white and orage wire is the one you want to use. It has power all the time, whereas the other only has power when the door is open. Wire to your preference. Reverse installation on domelight, visors, visors clips and mirror and you should be good to go.
My wifes car fortunately has the HomeLink system, so I had an instruction manual to reference. But programming the HomeLink is pretty simple. Press and hold the outer two buttons for about 20-30 seconds to clear the memory. To program a button simply hold the desired button on the HomeLink and the button on your garage remote at the same time. The light on the HomeLink will blink slowly then fast once its programmed. This should only take a few seconds. If the HomeLink appears to have been learned your remote, but still does not function, then you most likely have a rolling code garage door opener. You will need to activate the 'training mode' on your garage door unit itself. You may need to reference your garage door manual for this, mind was a simply red button, which triggered a light to come on for about a minute or so. While your garage door unit is in training mode, press both the programmed button on your homelink and on your remote simultaneously for a couple seconds. Repeat several times, eventually it should pick up your rolling code.
I am recalling this from memory, so I will try and fill in some details later. Also, for whatever reason all my photos were not uploaded, so more photos will come.
Modified by BryanPendleton at 7:00 PM 6/7/2006
Modified by BryanPendleton at 6:23 AM 6/8/2006
06-06-2006, 09:58 AM
#6
Re: How-To: HomeLink Installation (kaiba)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kaiba »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So what does this thing do. I'm too lazy to read all that.</TD></TR></TABLE>
http://www.homelink.com/about/homelink.tml
http://www.homelink.com/about/homelink.tml
06-06-2006, 10:06 AM
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Re: (JDM_EM1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_EM1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">clean install 
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks. I would have like it to been a little cleaner. I also accidently slipped a bit with the dremel, so I have a small blemish that is not hidden by the homelink bezel. But I can't argue, its still a pretty clean 10year car.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Thanks. I would have like it to been a little cleaner. I also accidently slipped a bit with the dremel, so I have a small blemish that is not hidden by the homelink bezel. But I can't argue, its still a pretty clean 10year car.
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06-07-2006, 11:07 AM
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Re: (Archidictus)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Archidictus »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Badass writeup, dude 
</TD></TR></TABLE>
No crap, thats cool as hell!
I don't really have a use for it, but that's pretty damn slick.
</TD></TR></TABLE>No crap, thats cool as hell!
I don't really have a use for it, but that's pretty damn slick.
06-07-2006, 11:11 AM
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Re: (Ricey McRicerton)
Good Idea, looks very nice also...but who the expletive used Automatic garage doors anymore?!?!
I drive on a lift, and my car is set on the ruuf! try and steal that shiet!
JK, my garage door is broke, so Im jealous.
I drive on a lift, and my car is set on the ruuf! try and steal that shiet!
JK, my garage door is broke, so Im jealous.
02-08-2008, 12:48 PM
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Re: (BryanPendleton)
Wow first time I see this thats pretty sick, too bad I don't have a automatic garage door opener.... I also just realized the original posting date 
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