go-fast_integra

I am trying to figure out how to swap the internals of an obd2b dizzy to a gsr case.
If anyone knows how, I would appreciate your info and reply.

94EG8

Basically just take both distributors apart and swap the CYP/CKP/TDC sensors. Most of the stuff will only fit one way. Make sure you mark the orientation of the 2 pronged drive on the end of the distributor (the thing that goes into the cam) before you remove it, as you can get it on 180 degrees off.

go-fast_integra

I already did the swapping but Im going to redo it cause I think I did it wrong. Some guy explained it to me and I just went off his explanantions. My car isn't turning on but turns over and I think I rebuilt it wrong. One of the icm connectors has an open prong sticking out with mo wire to put on, is that ok? The car gets no spark and there is no CEL on. Do you got any ideas? Anything will help and if there is a certain URL that can guide me through swapping internals, I'd really appreciAte it.

Former User

Have you checked whether dash fuse 9 is blown? Does the fuel pump prime?

The ICM is connected to three critical wires: Yel/Blk, Yel/Grn, and Blu/Wht.

The Blu wire is for the tach and is missing from most if not all OBD2b models.

go-fast_integra

I just checked dash fuse 9 and it's good. Isn't that for the main relay or the fuel pump? My fuel pump primes and there is volts at the yellow and green wire and at the Ignitor and the is volts in the coil of the ignitor. I might have put the (key or 2 pronged drive or the thing thAt goes into the cam) on backwards or something. Is there anyway to line it up now or fix it?

Former User

For OBD2b Civics, fuse 9 protects the distributor circuit. It must be fine if the Yel/Blk wire inside the distributor has voltage.

Have you tested the coil and ICM?

Have you used a multimeter to check for a short or open in the Yel/Grn wire that runs from the ICM to the ECU?

Have you checked whether the timing belt snapped?

Here's how to install the dizzy:

go-fast_integra

The timing belt is good. How do you test the coil and icm exactly? And how do you check for a short or open in the yellow/green wire?

Former User

Coil test shown below.

Take the ICM to an auto parts store for testing.

Do you have a digital multimeter and know how to use it?

go-fast_integra

94EG8 said that when rebuilding the dizzy you can put the 2pronged drive on 180 degrees off, ( I was thinking maybe I put it on the dizzy wrong when I put it together when I swapped the internals.)

go-fast_integra

I do have a multimeter, I think Im using it properly

go-fast_integra

I don't think it's the coil (ignitor) I have 2 ignitors and this is one of them and they both were is working dizzies, one was in the single cam and the other was the gsrband they both were running that's why I'm thinking maybe it's not the internals but maybe how I rebuilt it and pug it together. What do you think?

94EG8

normally the igniter will throw a cel for ignition output signal. try the other coil in it and see if it works, if it doesn't try swapping the igniter. If that 2 pronged drive is off 180 degrees you'll still have spark, but it will be 180 degrees out of time.

Former User

Set the multimeter to read Ohms on the smallest scale (e.g., 20 or 200 Ohms), or continuity if your multimeter has this setting.

Short test
Disconnect Yel/Grn wire from igniter unit. Touch one meter probe to the end of the Yel/Grn wire and the other meter probe to the thermostat housing. If you get a low Ohm reading (<100 Ohms) or a continuity beep, then the wire has a short.

Open test
Disconnect Yel/Grn wire from igniter unit and the corresponding ECU plug. Touch one meter probe to the end of the Yel/Grn wire and the other meter probe to one of the corresponding wire terminals in the ECU plug (I think there are two terminals). If you get a very high Ohm reading (>>100 Ohms) or no continuity beep, then the wire has an open.

go-fast_integra

Thanks for getting back to me, I'm gonna try those things out. 180 degrees out of time will not make it run, correct? Also I'm gonna check for the yellow/green wire for a short. Also if anyone has a step by step idea and pictures on how to take apart the dizzy properly and out it back together the right way, I'd really appreciate it. Thanks

Former User

Correct, but you would have spark, which you stated that you don't have.

This is the best I can do:

go-fast_integra

Thanks for the diagram. I think its gotta be a short somewhere in the yellow/green wire. I'm gonna check that now.

go-fast_integra

I'm not getting any battery volts at the yellow and green wire anymore and it was getting around 12v before and it's getting no ohms. Do ulu know which ecu plug pin is the yellow green wire?

go-fast_integra

Oh I confused myself for a second cause I took the black & yellow wire off of the ignitor and the yellow & green wire off and then checked for volts. So that's not a problem. I didn't get any ohms when checking the yellow/green wire and when I disconnected the dizzy plug and put it back on the CEL came on again. I reset the ecu to renew the code but it was still there and when I jumpered the code checker wire, the CEL light came on went off and then stayed solidly on without blinking. And that means a code zero, what do you think? Again I'm very happy that there are people on this website that are so helpful. Thanks

go-fast_integra

So at the same time I checked for volts while both the the two wires were disconnected from the ignitor

go-fast_integra

I recently swapped the internals into my gsr case in order to become a obd2b, to fit my engine harness in my civic. But I checked the ohms when I disconnected the yellow/green wire from the ignitor and there were no ohm readings and now CEL is not blinking, it stays on solidly when I jumper the engine check plug which is a code zero. If anyone has any ideas on where I should go now I would appreciate it.

Former User

Only one thread per topic please. Threads merged.
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I'm not sure whether you actually have a short. Describe how you did the "short" test and what reading you obtained.

EE_Chris

Code 0 means your ECU is busted.

94EG8

That or the ECU isn't grounded. Check the ground on the back of thermostat housing.

Former User

OP only mentions CEL is solid with the connector jumped. So it's unclear whether he has no codes or code 0. In addition, code 0 + no start generally is a problem with power or ground to the ECU and less commonly a bad ECU.

go-fast_integra

I only unscrewed the yellow/green wire from the ignitor and then turned my multimeter to ohms and then put my red tester to the yellow/green wire and then the black was grounded to the thermostat housing and nothing, no readings. I really think the ecu might be bad cause I bought it off craigslist and got it for cheap so Thatmay be it. But, where can I check for the ecu ground?