Fuster_Cluck

I did this today. My first tome doing this task so it took me a couple hours. I could go back and do it now in half the time now. Anyhow, let's get started:

Tools required:
--12, 17, 19mm sockets
--brake parts cleanser
--torque wrench
--something to support caliper assembly (I used a bucket)
--Phillips screw driver
--hammer or rubber mallet

1) Raise the front of the car up on jacks and remove both wheels.

2) I went ahead and removed the 2 screws that hold the rotor in place. A lot of people will say you need an impact screw gun, but I used a screw driver and rubber hammer. With the screw driver in place, whack the back handle of the screwdriver a couple times. It will take some force, but reverse the screw out of the hole. Do the same to the 2nd screw. The locations are shown in the pic below:



3) Now it's time to remove the 12mm bolt that allows the caliper to pivot upwards. It's the lower bolt shown in the pic below:



4) You can also remove the 2 - 17mm bolts described in the pic above. These are torqued to 80ft/lbs so I hope you have a breaker bar on hand. **If you need to, you can turn the steering wheel to have ba better angle on the bolts.

5) With those 3 bolts removed you can remove the entire caliper assembly by pulling it upward. Be careful to not pull out of reach that the short brake line is attached to. I placed the bucket upside down on the inside of the work area and rested the assembly on top.

6) Now you have a clear shot at the rotor. It pulls straight out off the wheel studs. You may have to hit the rotor with the rubber hammer to knock to loose.

Here's what's going on at this point:



7) Now you can put the new rotor on and add the 2 screws. Tighten them down evenly so the rotor goes on even. As tight as you can tighten them is fine.

8) Remove the old pads now. There are retainer clips on the top and bottom that hold the pads in place. Just pull them out. Pull from either the top or bottom of the pad to get one side out first.

9) Add the new pads just as you removed the old ones.

10) Replace the caliper assembly and 3 bolts removed earlier (torque specs on pictures). Thanks EG-cellent for reminding me about this step....
You'll have to press the piston back into the assembly to clear the inner brake pad. Just use your hand and it will slowly go back into the assembly. You don't have much time before the piston comes back out so get the caliper assembly on the rotor ASAP!


11) There was some dirt on my new rotors after the installation. So, with the cleaner I turned the rotor and sprayed the rotor as it turned. I then took a clean towel and wiped the rotor. I did this for the front of the rotor and also the backside.



12) Enjoy the look of your new stoppers and grab a that you bought with the $100+ you saved by doing it yourself







If I missed anything feel free to let me know.

**Running out the door to see Bad Boys 2**

Modified by Hybrid93Hatch at 9:05 PM 8/29/2003


Modified by Hybrid93Hatch at 9:06 PM 8/29/2003

spock_rocker

thanxx.

mr2kqql

did the brake really help after you change the front rotors? because I am planning to do mine, kinda looks old already and its not that expensive anyways

el nano1983

most of us guys can do this, but good job man, I reaslly liked the "How to" So beginers can learn from this, good job

EG-cellent

You forgot to mention that you need to push the caliper piston back.

Sketch_hs

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EG-cellent &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You forgot to mention that you need to push the caliper piston back.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yup.


nice pics, very clear.

anyone else notice what the newspaper says?

"Behind the Wheels"

i though that was kinda funny

nice write up, quite 56k Friendly really.

-Sketch

Echo7847

Nice write-up for the new guys/girls. This was a pretty straight forward install tho so no biggie, took me like hour and a half w/hand tools so much quicker w/air.

Happy Friday

Carlo

What about converting rear drums to discs?

Jstue

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sketch_hs &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

anyone else notice what the newspaper says?

"Behind the Wheels"

i though that was kinda funny

-Sketch</TD></TR></TABLE>

lmao

PSU

iTrader: (2)

nice DIY

cars looking good bro

tangb2023

7) Now you can put the new rotor on and add the 2 screws. Tighten them down evenly so the rotor goes on even. As tight as you can tighten them is fine.


i would not tight them so much.. cause it is hard to take off later, and those stupid screws always stip unless u got a impact screw driver for 10 bucks.. worth it.. plus ur wheels will hold the rotors in place.. nice write-up for the noobs

ELUD THS

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DxHatchback &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> nice DIY

cars looking good bro </TD></TR></TABLE>

TheTruth709

good job man

tominos

remember to put some brake squeal stopper to the back of the pads to keep the brakes quiet.

mikaleg6

must clean new rotors of coating. usually a hot tank dip, and some light sanding. sand the pads a bit too.

AlphaQup

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Carlo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What about converting rear drums to discs?</TD></TR></TABLE>

untuned

you should always clean the hub with a sanding pad and a good coat of M77

Ekizzle

JV

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tangb2023 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i would not tight them so much.. cause it is hard to take off later</TD></TR></TABLE>

Anti-Seize lube is your friend. I use that stuff on every bolt i take out practically.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tangb2023 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nice write-up for the noobs </TD></TR></TABLE>

It's a nice write-up for everyone.

Double_Dk

I had the front wheels off my car the other day and noticed that I did not have the two screws holding the rotor in place. Is that a big deal?

Archidictus

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Double_Dk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had the front wheels off my car the other day and noticed that I did not have the two screws holding the rotor in place. Is that a big deal?</TD></TR></TABLE>

You should have the screws in there, but the wheel does an adequate job of holding the rotor to the hub during most braking events. I'd get them sooner or later, though.

I'm glad this writeup is here: I'm putting Brembo Discs and Metallux Pads on the rear of my hatchie in the next couple of days and it's always good to have this in case I hit any snags (chances of that...approximately .001%) and need refreshed on how to do a brake job .