klungemonger

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gftgrill &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

in stock form. fully ported I've heard the y8 can make more power due to the offset valve sizes. but that goes back to the whoe z6/y8 debate.

anyway I suggested the y8 head because it has higher compression than a z6 and is less prone to detonation.</TD></TR></TABLE>

What do you mean offset valve sizes? The Z6 and Y8 have the same valves. Both intakes are 30mm and both exhaust are 26mm. The quench pads in the the Y8 chamber does help with the detonation, the primary difference that everyone debates over is the shape & configuration of the intake ports. the Y8 has a asymmetrical ports which helps create swirl for higher efficiency, but since one is a bit smaller then the other it supposedly hurts top end. The Z6 ports are symmetrical so they flow evenly to both valves. I think you would need a very seriously built d16 to notice the difference, not on the average daily driver with light mods.

lohatch

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by klungemonger &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

True, people don't consider that if they run very high compression but have to retard the timing to avoid detonation, they are reducing the horsepower which negates the whole reason for going with the ultra-high compression. Better to run just slightly lower compression, be more reliable, and if you run on the edge with timing you'll be making nice power. Best bet though is to get a nice management system so you can have the ignition curve tuned, then you can run good on the 12+ c/r setup. Why not just run the 93 octane all the time and worry less about detonation? On a Civic it will only cost you another $1-$2 per fillup</TD></TR></TABLE>you hit the nail on the head right here. some people think that more compression is better, but dont know how it works and have never built a high compression motor. as far as 2point2's question about trannies, the best stock hydro trans are probably Z6/Y8. anybody ever come across a JDM sohc trans with LSD???

klungemonger

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lohatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">anybody ever come across a JDM sohc trans with LSD?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've seen engine importers selling them. I think Nagano Japanese in Canada was selling the trannies for $450

m3dia_lab

what is Piston-to-Deck Height?

kinda confused on this one while calculating my c/r

cjb92

where the piston sits in the sleeve compared to the deck height. You know is the piston flush with the deck height or does it sit below or above... hth..

and on a side note I am building a similar setup for fun with vx rods and dx pistons. Should put me around 11:3 or so with a single layer head gasket..

m3dia_lab

well i have a y8 block with z6 head,

which would i choose on the c/r finder page? it makes a big difference like 13.1:1
or 12.0:1

lohatch

you choose the Y8 piston to deck height because you are using the Y8 block

civic-4-ges

Use the piston to deck height for the pistons you are installing!!!

ubercerealkiller

ok i might be ab le to get ahold of a d16y7 block, i dont know how good of shape its in though or if it even matters... i know im gonna have to replace the crank bearings on it and the crank for that matter, cause my buddy blew it in his del sol running 92 in third gear, and according to his dad he was two quarts low on oil... which wouldnt surprise hes not the brightest kid on the block.

would i be able to pull the crank from the d15 and put it in the y7 block?

klungemonger

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ubercerealkiller &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok i might be ab le to get ahold of a d16y7 block, i dont know how good of shape its in though or if it even matters... i know im gonna have to replace the crank bearings on it and the crank for that matter, cause my buddy blew it in his del sol running 92 in third gear, and according to his dad he was two quarts low on oil... which wouldnt surprise hes not the brightest kid on the block.

would i be able to pull the crank from the d15 and put it in the y7 block?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Is it possible to hit 92mph in 3rd with the rev limiter on a Y7? Could be, it's been a while since I used a Y7 tranny I know with the Y8 trans it won't quite make it there.

Anyhow you can tell when you get the crank cap off whether any of the journals are scored (crank is bad). If not just keep the whole bottom end as is and do the bearings anyways. Good time to put some A6 or A1 pistons in if you're planning an all-motor build up.

shifty35

Yes, you can get well over 92 in 3rd in a Y7 tranny. 2nd goes to ~74.

klungemonger

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shifty35 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes, you can get well over 92 in 3rd in a Y7 tranny. 2nd goes to ~74.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah I seem to remember that vaguely. You can just cross 60mph in 2nd with a Y8 tranny, at least at stock redline.

lohatch

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ubercerealkiller &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
would i be able to pull the crank from the d15 and put it in the y7 block?</TD></TR></TABLE>
i am under the assumption that you can but i have never tried it. i dont know if the main journals are the same or not....i know the rod journals are different, being the reason why you cant run 1.6L rods in the 1.5L block. if it is possible to use a 1.5L crank in the 1.6L block, you would have to use 1.5L rods. the more i think about it, i'm thinking the mains are probably the same. anybody else have any imput on this matter??????


Modified by lohatch at 8:29 AM 12/2/2004

ubercerealkiller

im pretty sure the crank was messed up, i havent seen it since like august cause i was helping him pull the motor out and stuff, but i know he pulled all the bottom end **** off and showed me but i wasnt really paying any attention.

klungemonger

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lohatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> the more i think about it, i'm thinking the mains are probably the same. anybody else have any imput on this matter??????</TD></TR></TABLE>
I agree, the basic block is the same so journals bored into the block should be the same.

ubercerealkiller

ok...so assuming i go with a y7 block, z6 head, and lets say i got a new crank, what else should i use? what kind of pistons... what kind of rods... ive seen these "ZC" pistons on ebay for like 150 bucks that claim high compression and i dont **** about 'em, but its about how much im looking to spend you know... let me find the link and ill post it.

ubercerealkiller

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...=WDVW

those are the pistons im really wanting to use but i dont know if they'll give me the kind of power im loking for, my goal for this motor is 160. i also want it to be reliable and stuff ( duh ) cause after i get this motor built and running and everything, im planning on building a b-series, but yah thats far off and i dont have the cash for it right now.... but yah.

lohatch

those are P29 pistons, so use the compression calculator http://www.knology.net/~jediklc/D.htm to figure things out. if you end up using a 1.5L crank you are going to be limited to using 1.5L rods. you should figure out what block and crank you are going to use. by getting this Y7 block and then putting a 1.5L crank in it you are really gaining NO GROUND. the reason we were suggesting doing a 1.6L was to acquire more options for rods.

ubercerealkiller

i used the compression calculator with all the correct specs, and i came up with:
12.032262720898797 C/R, which is pretty much exactly what im wanting to acheive. ( LOL, thought id throw all the extra digits in just for kicks ) thats with y7 block, z6 head, p29 pistons. im pretty sure i put it all in right.

BauleyCivic

From the great Mista Bone:

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mista Bone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
A D15 crank WILL NOT work in ANY D16 block
D16 = 55mm main journals
D15 = 45mm main journals

.400" instead of .004" main bearing clearnace = no oil pressure and alot of ratttles!
</TD></TR></TABLE>

That answers that.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cjb92 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
and on a side note I am building a similar setup for fun with vx rods and dx pistons. Should put me around 11:3 or so with a single layer head gasket..</TD></TR></TABLE>

Too bad this wont work in any way shape or form.

jolt-tsp

I know this wasn't what you're looking for, but throwing it out if you want to look into it. A home made turbo setup with a used t25 will be ~$1000. It might be ghetto, but I think you'll be more impressed with the power gain per $.

Del_Slo_1

I'm building a Z6 right now....so I'm kind of in the same boat as you. I'm on a budget, but skimping on bottom end parts is not cool. FYI, in case you're interested in someone else's specs (to give you another idea), here's my shiznit:

D16Z6 block and crank
cut the hole on the oil pickup bigger
Clevite engine bearings
Eagle forged rods
11.5:1 SRP forged pistons
D16Z6 head
Comp Stage III race (all motor/nitrous) cam
New valves and valve guides
Comp valve springs w/titanium retainers
full port/polish on the head
Edelbrock intake manifold
bigger TB
DC header

It seems like I have a bit bigger of a budget than you....but DON'T skimp on bottom end parts. Do your bottom end completely, and give it a nice Zex Stage I cam or something (seems like that's the best bet for what your goal is)

Hope I helped...

jdm123

those are the pistons i plan on getting as well

ubercerealkiller

well i really DONT wanna spend alot of money on this project, because its mostly something to see if i can do it, and i'm about to get a 94 dx hatch and the stock motor isnt the power im looking for.

just wondering, how much did the pistons and rods run you?
and the cam?

Del_Slo_1

I haven't bought them yet...but the cam I want runs $347 and the pistons run about $450 and the rods...they run about $400 as well. Lots of money...money I don't have yet