garyc17

Okay, this ticking is driving me crazy. My car ticks when I start driving it in the morning. It ticks until the temperature reaches the normal operating point. If I hit the freeway thereafter, it will start to tick again when the temperature drops.

I have adjusted my tappets 3 times. Can Lost Motion Assemblies cause this? Or is the engine suppose to tick all the time with bad LMAs regardless of temperature? It is definitely coming from the cam cover area. There is no ticking at idle at normal temperature.

Can oil of too low a viscosity cause this? I am on 0w40 8100 Motul. I was thinking of swapping out to 15w50 or something thicker if it can help solve this problem. Any advise appreciated.

mtownek9

bump

serio_ENDLESS

had this problem before and the motion assemblies do wear out from time to time

Si_chRis

I do know fuel injectors make clicky noises also.

stock99si

nope its ur piston rings because metal expands when it gets hot. so when its cold it shrinks. research this ull see a lot of articles on this with wrx's.

garyc17

So far, this is the first I heard about piston rings. I have read that it might be piston slap, but mostly happens on forged pistons. I am on stock pistons so that shouldn't be an issue.

For you guys with LMA issues, does temperature play a part in the problem appearing and going?

hall97civic

its going to to tick some. How what is your engine temp when on the freeway? Also use 5w30 like honda suggests, especially in the colder weather. How many miles are on the engine?
later

garyc17

My temp is 85deg on the freeway, 94deg at the lights. Just a small difference in temperature can cause the valvetrain to contract?

So do bad LMAs make noise when cold and remain silent when hot?

garyc17

Bump for some help....

yoffer

honda recommends 5-30w oil so why are you swapping thicker oil? its 5-30w for a reason, you shouldnt have to swap a different weight oil for any reason. the ticking could be your valves, when was the last time you checked your clearances?

garyc17

I just checked their clearances. They have been adjusted to spec. The main thing is whether LMAs can cause ticking when the temp is cold and stop ticking when the temp goes back up.

garyc17

HELP!

garyc17

Bump.

vrrodri

Make sure you are using the right gauges in mm not inches!!!
Also, putting in heavier oil makes your oil pump and other parts work harder, not good for your engine after so many miles!!!

garyc17

All is fine once the temperature goes up. Strange thing is the noise comes back once the temperature drops on the highway.

The gauges are definitely the right ones.

HeikDiesel

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by garyc17 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My temp is 85deg on the freeway, 94deg at the lights. Just a small difference in temperature can cause the valvetrain to contract?

So do bad LMAs make noise when cold and remain silent when hot?</TD></TR></TABLE>

What on your car is 85 and 94*? Cooling system should be a lot warmer than that. As for rings I highly doubt this has anything to do with your problem. Can you isolate your problem to a certain area? Use your had to feel or a stethsicope if you have one

garyc17

The problem is not there at idle. So it would be hard to pinpoint the source of the ticking. It only happens when I accelerate or decelerate on the go mostly between 2500rpm and 4000rpm. It happens all the time after a cold start.

HeikDiesel

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by garyc17 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The problem is not there at idle. So it would be hard to pinpoint the source of the ticking. It only happens when I accelerate or decelerate on the go mostly between 2500rpm and 4000rpm. It happens all the time after a cold start.</TD></TR></TABLE>

so the car has to be under a load at 4000?

raphael

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by garyc17 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Okay, this ticking is driving me crazy. My car ticks when I start driving it in the morning. It ticks until the temperature reaches the normal operating point. If I hit the freeway thereafter, it will start to tick again when the temperature drops.

I have adjusted my tappets 3 times. Can Lost Motion Assemblies cause this? Or is the engine suppose to tick all the time with bad LMAs regardless of temperature? It is definitely coming from the cam cover area. There is no ticking at idle at normal temperature.

Can oil of too low a viscosity cause this? I am on 0w40 8100 Motul. I was thinking of swapping out to 15w50 or something thicker if it can help solve this problem. Any advise appreciated.</TD></TR></TABLE>pop the valve cover and look for a live bomb is what i usually recommend

HeikDiesel

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by raphael &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">pop the valve cover and look for a live bomb is what i usually recommend</TD></TR></TABLE>

wtf is a "live bomb"? Is that like something about ready to break?

raphael

a " live bomb" is a ticking bomb or bomb ready to explode. try getting out more

garyc17

If its' a nut from the tappet adjuster that you are describing, its not there. All of them are bolted on tight.

HeikDiesel

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by raphael &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a " live bomb" is a ticking bomb or bomb ready to explode. try getting out more</TD></TR></TABLE>

Go pratice falling down. Simply put that was the worst anaolgy I've ever heard in my life and you have the nerve to be a dick about it afterwards. ********

Bazza

sorry to tell you but its your valves... i had the same problem did a valve job and never had it again.... worn valves.

garyc17

Before the valve job, did your car went noisy when it started to cool down on the freeway?