Help!!! I think I may have an air bubble in my fuel system!
10-08-2007, 08:25 PM
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Help!!! I think I may have an air bubble in my fuel system!
Ok, I have searched and come up short.
I need all the honda mechanics help and knowledge on this one.
I was coming home from school, gas was low and I decided to drive home. I got about two miles from the gas station and of course I was going up hill. Gas light was on so I putted it until I got over the hill.
Once I was level the light went off and I sped up to exit the highway and fill up. Then my throttle when soft and the car shut off. I got it started again and the idle bounced like there was a vaccuum leak. I made it to the gas station filled up and the car would not start. It would fire up and then die. After I sat for a minute I got the car started and drove home only to have it idling at 1500rpm and bouncing as if there was a vaccuum leak. I checked the plugs, let it sit some more then got the idea to take off the gas cap and see if I could hear air bubbles escaping. Sure as I unscrewed the cap I heard what sounded like gargling within the tank and I could instantly smell gas.
I put the cap back on, started then car rand pretty good still a little bounce with the idle ontop of higher than normal idle and then turned off the car. Upon turning the car off I decided that it was still not sufficent so I unscrewed the cap agian and heard the same thing as before.
Now I know that the correlation between what I heard and air being in the system is pretty strong. However I do not know if what I am doing to evacuate the system is sufficient.
Tom I could really use your expertise on this one! Please any help with this would be greatly appreciate being that this is my only mode of transportation to work and school.
Thanks! Please if you dont know what you are talking about keep out! This could become a very useful and helpfull thread for idiots like me. Keep all the BS out of it.
I need all the honda mechanics help and knowledge on this one.
I was coming home from school, gas was low and I decided to drive home. I got about two miles from the gas station and of course I was going up hill. Gas light was on so I putted it until I got over the hill.
Once I was level the light went off and I sped up to exit the highway and fill up. Then my throttle when soft and the car shut off. I got it started again and the idle bounced like there was a vaccuum leak. I made it to the gas station filled up and the car would not start. It would fire up and then die. After I sat for a minute I got the car started and drove home only to have it idling at 1500rpm and bouncing as if there was a vaccuum leak. I checked the plugs, let it sit some more then got the idea to take off the gas cap and see if I could hear air bubbles escaping. Sure as I unscrewed the cap I heard what sounded like gargling within the tank and I could instantly smell gas.
I put the cap back on, started then car rand pretty good still a little bounce with the idle ontop of higher than normal idle and then turned off the car. Upon turning the car off I decided that it was still not sufficent so I unscrewed the cap agian and heard the same thing as before.
Now I know that the correlation between what I heard and air being in the system is pretty strong. However I do not know if what I am doing to evacuate the system is sufficient.
Tom I could really use your expertise on this one! Please any help with this would be greatly appreciate being that this is my only mode of transportation to work and school.
Thanks! Please if you dont know what you are talking about keep out! This could become a very useful and helpfull thread for idiots like me. Keep all the BS out of it.
10-08-2007, 08:34 PM
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Re: Help!!! I think I may have an air bubble in my fuel system! (Civichatch2k)
your air bubble problem does not exist. Even if you did have an air bubble in your fuel, it would just get pushed out thru the injector or make it's way back to the tank and bubble up there. Your pump pushes gas thru the system pretty fast.
Either way, it would not cause your car to run weird for any extended period of time. There may be a small air bubble, but that would just cause a sputter ONE time..and then it would go away. People run out of gas all the time.
Your problem lies else where. It's very hard to E-fix your car from behind a screen, though. Maybe take it to a shop?
Either way, it would not cause your car to run weird for any extended period of time. There may be a small air bubble, but that would just cause a sputter ONE time..and then it would go away. People run out of gas all the time.
Your problem lies else where. It's very hard to E-fix your car from behind a screen, though. Maybe take it to a shop?
10-08-2007, 09:05 PM
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I agree, but what would be a good place to start since it is hard to figure it out over the internet.
So you mean to tell me that there is never an air bubble within the fueil lines, ever? That is crazy to me but I will take your word for it.
What other options do I need to look at prior to taking it to a shop.
So you mean to tell me that there is never an air bubble within the fueil lines, ever? That is crazy to me but I will take your word for it.
What other options do I need to look at prior to taking it to a shop.
10-08-2007, 09:11 PM
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Re: Help!!! I think I may have an air bubble in my fuel system! (bigD)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bigD »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sounds like u may have sucked up some crap from the bottom of the tank.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Assuming this was the case, what would be a fix?
Assuming this was the case, what would be a fix?
10-08-2007, 09:18 PM
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Re: (Civichatch2k)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Civichatch2k »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I agree, but what would be a good place to start since it is hard to figure it out over the internet.
So you mean to tell me that there is never an air bubble within the fueil lines, ever? That is crazy to me but I will take your word for it.
What other options do I need to look at prior to taking it to a shop.</TD></TR></TABLE>
no. im saying that even if there was an air bubble in your line...it would be either spit out by a fuel injector and your car would sputter once. Or it would just find it's way back to the tank where it would rise to the top of the gas and be out of the fuel lines.
So you mean to tell me that there is never an air bubble within the fueil lines, ever? That is crazy to me but I will take your word for it.
What other options do I need to look at prior to taking it to a shop.</TD></TR></TABLE>
no. im saying that even if there was an air bubble in your line...it would be either spit out by a fuel injector and your car would sputter once. Or it would just find it's way back to the tank where it would rise to the top of the gas and be out of the fuel lines.
10-09-2007, 04:26 AM
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Re: (B serious)
ok, well I can tell you for sure that the it came out of the gas tank. What other things could be going on with my car?
Could it be something with the valves? i.e., could the motor have jumped timing and bent a valve? The plugs were perfect just on the rich side. Is it possible to bend a valve without the valve hitting the spark plug?
Could it be something with the valves? i.e., could the motor have jumped timing and bent a valve? The plugs were perfect just on the rich side. Is it possible to bend a valve without the valve hitting the spark plug?
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10-09-2007, 06:22 AM
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Re: Help!!! I think I may have an air bubble in my fuel system! (Civichatch2k)
Did the check engine light come on at ANY time during all of this, or since it happened?
My guess is that the car ran out of gas, ran lean, and possibly triggered idle control system malfuntions likely at the IACV, MAP, or TPS sensors and perhaps disconnecting your negative battery cable (only AFTER you've check for codes of course) to reset the ECU might help with the problem.
Aside from that it's doubtful air is trapped in the system, and there should be a fuel pump strainer/sock on the pump in the tank to prevent sediment from getting sucked up.
My guess is that the car ran out of gas, ran lean, and possibly triggered idle control system malfuntions likely at the IACV, MAP, or TPS sensors and perhaps disconnecting your negative battery cable (only AFTER you've check for codes of course) to reset the ECU might help with the problem.
Aside from that it's doubtful air is trapped in the system, and there should be a fuel pump strainer/sock on the pump in the tank to prevent sediment from getting sucked up.
10-09-2007, 10:49 AM
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Re: (Civichatch2k)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Civichatch2k »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok, well I can tell you for sure that the it came out of the gas tank. What other things could be going on with my car?
Could it be something with the valves? i.e., could the motor have jumped timing and bent a valve? The plugs were perfect just on the rich side. Is it possible to bend a valve without the valve hitting the spark plug?</TD></TR></TABLE>
A valve can not hit the spark plug. Unless it is no longer attached to the head.
The piston can hit the valve. A piston can hit a spark plug. A piston hitting the spark plug would happen as soon as you started the car or not at all. Or if the piston became detached from the crank.
The spark plug is stationary. It does not move. So if it were long enough to get hit, it would get hit the MOMENT you started the car the first time you put the plug in.
It could be about 4204740578582474098700075020580808087087 billion things that's making your car run funny.
Also, you are not supposed to take spark plugs out of an aluminum head until the head has reached 100 degrees farenheit or lower. You can warp the head if you take the plug out when it's too hot. Just an FYI.
A common cause of this problem is a bad distributor. Have you ever replaced your cap and rotor? The ignitor sometimes also causes problems. Try replacing the distributor for a known good one. Like if a friend has the same car or something and you can try it out.
Otherwise, just take it somewhere to be diagnosed. If you try to solve the problem by throwing parts at it, you will probably end up spending more than you would have just having had a competent technician take a look at it in the first place.
Could it be something with the valves? i.e., could the motor have jumped timing and bent a valve? The plugs were perfect just on the rich side. Is it possible to bend a valve without the valve hitting the spark plug?</TD></TR></TABLE>
A valve can not hit the spark plug. Unless it is no longer attached to the head.
The piston can hit the valve. A piston can hit a spark plug. A piston hitting the spark plug would happen as soon as you started the car or not at all. Or if the piston became detached from the crank.
The spark plug is stationary. It does not move. So if it were long enough to get hit, it would get hit the MOMENT you started the car the first time you put the plug in.
It could be about 4204740578582474098700075020580808087087 billion things that's making your car run funny.
Also, you are not supposed to take spark plugs out of an aluminum head until the head has reached 100 degrees farenheit or lower. You can warp the head if you take the plug out when it's too hot. Just an FYI.
A common cause of this problem is a bad distributor. Have you ever replaced your cap and rotor? The ignitor sometimes also causes problems. Try replacing the distributor for a known good one. Like if a friend has the same car or something and you can try it out.
Otherwise, just take it somewhere to be diagnosed. If you try to solve the problem by throwing parts at it, you will probably end up spending more than you would have just having had a competent technician take a look at it in the first place.
10-09-2007, 11:51 AM
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Re: Help!!! I think I may have an air bubble in my fuel system! (B18C5-EH2)
I'll also echo B serious in that a lot of people do try to fix problems by guessing and throwing parts at it, and even though people have this mindset that repair shops are trying to rip you off there are good, honest ones like the very shop i manage and have worked at for 7 years.
I see people that throw parts at a problam and waste a lot of money, and worst of all, CREATE more problems and make it much more difficult for a technician to diagnose the issue in the first place once the car finally gets to a shop. I see cars with aftermarket crap fuel pumps and filters when the problem was a main relay, then the crap fuel pump dies afterwards, etc. People using Auto zone alternators to "fix" a whine when it was an A/C idler pulley, etc. etc.
I'm not discouraging you from doing research and trying to diagnose and fix a problem on your own, but in this case it's a wide open field of what the issue is. running low/out of gas may have everything or nothing at all to do with your current issues.
I see people that throw parts at a problam and waste a lot of money, and worst of all, CREATE more problems and make it much more difficult for a technician to diagnose the issue in the first place once the car finally gets to a shop. I see cars with aftermarket crap fuel pumps and filters when the problem was a main relay, then the crap fuel pump dies afterwards, etc. People using Auto zone alternators to "fix" a whine when it was an A/C idler pulley, etc. etc.
I'm not discouraging you from doing research and trying to diagnose and fix a problem on your own, but in this case it's a wide open field of what the issue is. running low/out of gas may have everything or nothing at all to do with your current issues.
10-09-2007, 04:17 PM
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Ok, well here at the codes and what I did to fix the solution thus far:
First ran the codes and came up with:
3
23
41
45
54
65
Since I dont have a secondary O2 or knock sensor I expected those to come up.
Car has ran fine for years without these two items. Plus since I normally run a P28 they are disabled.
Then I decided that it was worth a shot to resest since most of the codes that were thrown related to the fuel system and presures within it. So Tom taking a chance I reset the ecu. Came up with:
3 - Map Sensor
23- Knock Sensor
54- CKF
65 Secondary O2
Then I decided to isolate even more and replaced the OEM Si ECU with a chipped P28 because resetting the battery did not fix the problem.
After trying to reset the battery again and switching ECU's I am isolated down to one code. #3- Map Sensor.
Now being that it is the Map Sensor, I think that a shop that I trust here locally will be recieving my car very soon.
Is this something that they can just simply replace the sensor or is it an entire throttle body?
Just need to get and idea of what I am looking at price wise for repairs.
I didnt think that the secondary or CKF was causing the issue so since in the chipped p28's it is not activated I decided to see if switching ECU's would work and it unfortunately didnt work out.
So thanks for your help and any information that you all can send my way would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks!
First ran the codes and came up with:
3
23
41
45
54
65
Since I dont have a secondary O2 or knock sensor I expected those to come up.
Car has ran fine for years without these two items. Plus since I normally run a P28 they are disabled.
Then I decided that it was worth a shot to resest since most of the codes that were thrown related to the fuel system and presures within it. So Tom taking a chance I reset the ecu. Came up with:
3 - Map Sensor
23- Knock Sensor
54- CKF
65 Secondary O2
Then I decided to isolate even more and replaced the OEM Si ECU with a chipped P28 because resetting the battery did not fix the problem.
After trying to reset the battery again and switching ECU's I am isolated down to one code. #3- Map Sensor.
Now being that it is the Map Sensor, I think that a shop that I trust here locally will be recieving my car very soon.
Is this something that they can just simply replace the sensor or is it an entire throttle body?
Just need to get and idea of what I am looking at price wise for repairs.
I didnt think that the secondary or CKF was causing the issue so since in the chipped p28's it is not activated I decided to see if switching ECU's would work and it unfortunately didnt work out.
So thanks for your help and any information that you all can send my way would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks!
10-10-2007, 07:55 AM
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Re: (egsleepercivic)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by egsleepercivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">don't take it to a shop to replace the map thats one of the easiest sensors to change </TD></TR></TABLE>
well what if it's a wiring issue? an ECU issue?
DIAGNOSE BEFORE BUYING PARTS!!
Although, you could just pick up a MAP from a junkyard for $nothing (canadian) lol.
So maybe it wouldn't be a bad idea to try out a cheap MAP to check.
well what if it's a wiring issue? an ECU issue?
DIAGNOSE BEFORE BUYING PARTS!!
Although, you could just pick up a MAP from a junkyard for $nothing (canadian) lol.
So maybe it wouldn't be a bad idea to try out a cheap MAP to check.
10-10-2007, 09:05 AM
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Re: (B serious)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B serious »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
well what if it's a wiring issue? an ECU issue?
DIAGNOSE BEFORE BUYING PARTS!!
Although, you could just pick up a MAP from a junkyard for $nothing (canadian) lol.
So maybe it wouldn't be a bad idea to try out a cheap MAP to check.</TD></TR></TABLE>
or borrow one from a friend
well what if it's a wiring issue? an ECU issue?
DIAGNOSE BEFORE BUYING PARTS!!
Although, you could just pick up a MAP from a junkyard for $nothing (canadian) lol.
So maybe it wouldn't be a bad idea to try out a cheap MAP to check.</TD></TR></TABLE>
or borrow one from a friend
10-10-2007, 04:04 PM
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well i tried the cheap MAP sensor and it didnt fix the problem. The car is going to the shop tomorrow, didnt take it today because of testing out the other MAP.
I will let you all know what happens. This could be good for others who have experienced similar problems.
I will let you all know what happens. This could be good for others who have experienced similar problems.
10-11-2007, 04:42 PM
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Ok, well update.
The car is at the shop and according to the mechanic working on my car, the MAP sensor is not registering even with a good sensor on there. The wiring is the problem and I will find out to what extent when they finish getting it all figured out.
The car is at the shop and according to the mechanic working on my car, the MAP sensor is not registering even with a good sensor on there. The wiring is the problem and I will find out to what extent when they finish getting it all figured out.
10-15-2007, 01:32 PM
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Ok, well here is what it was.
Somehow I had a broken wire within my harness and if finally just gave away.
The car is fixed and runs great. Also they removed my VAFC so I have one for sale. The way that it was wired was creating a some issues with voltage.
Just thought I would give you all an update.
The VAFC is for sale.
Somehow I had a broken wire within my harness and if finally just gave away.
The car is fixed and runs great. Also they removed my VAFC so I have one for sale. The way that it was wired was creating a some issues with voltage.
Just thought I would give you all an update.
The VAFC is for sale.
10-15-2007, 02:51 PM
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Re: (Civichatch2k)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Civichatch2k »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok, well here is what it was.
Somehow I had a broken wire within my harness and if finally just gave away.
The car is fixed and runs great. Also they removed my VAFC so I have one for sale. The way that it was wired was creating a some issues with voltage.
Just thought I would give you all an update.
The VAFC is for sale.</TD></TR></TABLE>
PM'd about the VAFC. Turn off your pop ups if you have them on. Check your PM.
Somehow I had a broken wire within my harness and if finally just gave away.
The car is fixed and runs great. Also they removed my VAFC so I have one for sale. The way that it was wired was creating a some issues with voltage.
Just thought I would give you all an update.
The VAFC is for sale.</TD></TR></TABLE>
PM'd about the VAFC. Turn off your pop ups if you have them on. Check your PM.
10-16-2007, 07:15 AM
#20
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Re: (Civichatch2k)
Dude not to sound like a dick, but you REALLY should have mentioned the fact that you had a V-AFC. I HATE V-AFCs and I would have told you up front it's the V-AFC/and or wiring for it that was causing your issue.
I am one of the few who owned a V-AFc and never had a single issue with it, but I still hate them because the units themselves aren't exactly the most reliable, but worst of all was the fact that well over 1/2 of them were not installed properly.
I guess this is an example of why trying to e-diagnose a car with such a problem is nearly impossible. At least if we are going to try to diagnose something we really need to know more details next time.
I am one of the few who owned a V-AFc and never had a single issue with it, but I still hate them because the units themselves aren't exactly the most reliable, but worst of all was the fact that well over 1/2 of them were not installed properly.
I guess this is an example of why trying to e-diagnose a car with such a problem is nearly impossible. At least if we are going to try to diagnose something we really need to know more details next time.
10-17-2007, 08:57 PM
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Re: (B18C5-EH2)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Dude not to sound like a dick, but you REALLY should have mentioned the fact that you had a V-AFC. I HATE V-AFCs and I would have told you up front it's the V-AFC/and or wiring for it that was causing your issue.
I am one of the few who owned a V-AFc and never had a single issue with it, but I still hate them because the units themselves aren't exactly the most reliable, but worst of all was the fact that well over 1/2 of them were not installed properly.
I guess this is an example of why trying to e-diagnose a car with such a problem is nearly impossible. At least if we are going to try to diagnose something we really need to know more details next time.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You are absolutely correct. The more detail the better. You know though, what we did come up with was at least a cheap attempt to fix the problem. But now the VAFC is off and the car is running great, I would even say better than before.
But future note to all who own VAFC's, this is the reason that you must know the device is installed correctly or just dont have one.
Get Hondata! That is my plan after this fiasco!
Thanks for the help in partially diagnosing the problem. I really appreciate the quick responses.
And for those of you who are making posts to e-fix the car, make sure you are DETAILED!
Thanks to all who gave their input! 
I am one of the few who owned a V-AFc and never had a single issue with it, but I still hate them because the units themselves aren't exactly the most reliable, but worst of all was the fact that well over 1/2 of them were not installed properly.
I guess this is an example of why trying to e-diagnose a car with such a problem is nearly impossible. At least if we are going to try to diagnose something we really need to know more details next time.
</TD></TR></TABLE>You are absolutely correct. The more detail the better. You know though, what we did come up with was at least a cheap attempt to fix the problem. But now the VAFC is off and the car is running great, I would even say better than before.
But future note to all who own VAFC's, this is the reason that you must know the device is installed correctly or just dont have one.
Get Hondata! That is my plan after this fiasco!
Thanks for the help in partially diagnosing the problem. I really appreciate the quick responses.
And for those of you who are making posts to e-fix the car, make sure you are DETAILED!
Thanks to all who gave their input!
10-17-2007, 11:50 PM
#22
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Re: (Civichatch2k)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Civichatch2k »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You are absolutely correct. The more detail the better. You know though, what we did come up with was at least a cheap attempt to fix the problem. But now the VAFC is off and the car is running great, I would even say better than before.
But future note to all who own VAFC's, this is the reason that you must know the device is installed correctly or just dont have one.
Get Hondata! That is my plan after this fiasco!
Thanks for the help in partially diagnosing the problem. I really appreciate the quick responses.
And for those of you who are making posts to e-fix the car, make sure you are DETAILED!
Thanks to all who gave their input! </TD></TR></TABLE>
1.) Does the hondata unit just plug in? If it has to be installed..it could be installed incorrectly too.
2.) A VAFC can be a great tuning tool for mild setups. Why didn't you just have it installed correctly? Fixing a few wiring connections is not hard. How does anyone install it incorrectly? The instructions are VERY explicit. I've installed a million of these...never with any problems. You read, THEN you snip/strip/solder wires. Doesn't seem too hard. But then again, I'm highly intelligent.
3.) E-fix is my term. I coined it. That means you owe me $5 every time you say it.
You are absolutely correct. The more detail the better. You know though, what we did come up with was at least a cheap attempt to fix the problem. But now the VAFC is off and the car is running great, I would even say better than before.
But future note to all who own VAFC's, this is the reason that you must know the device is installed correctly or just dont have one.
Get Hondata! That is my plan after this fiasco!
Thanks for the help in partially diagnosing the problem. I really appreciate the quick responses.
And for those of you who are making posts to e-fix the car, make sure you are DETAILED!
Thanks to all who gave their input!
</TD></TR></TABLE>1.) Does the hondata unit just plug in? If it has to be installed..it could be installed incorrectly too.
2.) A VAFC can be a great tuning tool for mild setups. Why didn't you just have it installed correctly? Fixing a few wiring connections is not hard. How does anyone install it incorrectly? The instructions are VERY explicit. I've installed a million of these...never with any problems. You read, THEN you snip/strip/solder wires. Doesn't seem too hard. But then again, I'm highly intelligent.
3.) E-fix is my term. I coined it. That means you owe me $5 every time you say it.
10-18-2007, 04:24 AM
#23
Former Moderator
Re: (B serious)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B serious »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
2.) A VAFC can be a great tuning tool for mild setups. Why didn't you just have it installed correctly? Fixing a few wiring connections is not hard. How does anyone install it incorrectly? The instructions are VERY explicit. I've installed a million of these...never with any problems. You read, THEN you snip/strip/solder wires. Doesn't seem too hard. But then again, I'm highly intelligent. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Too bad the V-AFCs came out with incorrect instructions back in the days before the V-AFCII. Many people installed them to a T instruction wise, but the problem used to be in the instructions themselves.
Also too many times butt connectors or even twist/tape methods are used to wire up V-AFCs.
Like I said my V-AFC never gave me trouble, but mine was soldiered, etc. I just think they're unnecessary these days with the Uberdata, Crome, and Hondata offering more features for less money sometimes, and without the gaudy/useless display.
2.) A VAFC can be a great tuning tool for mild setups. Why didn't you just have it installed correctly? Fixing a few wiring connections is not hard. How does anyone install it incorrectly? The instructions are VERY explicit. I've installed a million of these...never with any problems. You read, THEN you snip/strip/solder wires. Doesn't seem too hard. But then again, I'm highly intelligent.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Too bad the V-AFCs came out with incorrect instructions back in the days before the V-AFCII. Many people installed them to a T instruction wise, but the problem used to be in the instructions themselves.
Also too many times butt connectors or even twist/tape methods are used to wire up V-AFCs.
Like I said my V-AFC never gave me trouble, but mine was soldiered, etc. I just think they're unnecessary these days with the Uberdata, Crome, and Hondata offering more features for less money sometimes, and without the gaudy/useless display.
10-18-2007, 08:18 AM
#24
Honda-Tech Member
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Re: (B serious)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B serious »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
1.) Does the hondata unit just plug in? If it has to be installed..it could be installed incorrectly too.
2.) A VAFC can be a great tuning tool for mild setups. Why didn't you just have it installed correctly? Fixing a few wiring connections is not hard. How does anyone install it incorrectly? The instructions are VERY explicit. I've installed a million of these...never with any problems. You read, THEN you snip/strip/solder wires. Doesn't seem too hard. But then again, I'm highly intelligent.
3.) E-fix is my term. I coined it. That means you owe me $5 every time you say it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Old instruction followed to a T still make problems for users and installers if the instructions were wrong.
Yes Hondata is plugged in not wired.
1.) Does the hondata unit just plug in? If it has to be installed..it could be installed incorrectly too.
2.) A VAFC can be a great tuning tool for mild setups. Why didn't you just have it installed correctly? Fixing a few wiring connections is not hard. How does anyone install it incorrectly? The instructions are VERY explicit. I've installed a million of these...never with any problems. You read, THEN you snip/strip/solder wires. Doesn't seem too hard. But then again, I'm highly intelligent.
3.) E-fix is my term. I coined it. That means you owe me $5 every time you say it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Old instruction followed to a T still make problems for users and installers if the instructions were wrong.
Yes Hondata is plugged in not wired.
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