918-Hatch

Ever so long ago I changed my rear drum shoes, ever since then my pedal has been "Softer"... I just so happen to talk a guy that has his own brake shop for 15 plus years. He showed me a trick to take a bottle of brake fluid and stick a hose in it and stick the other end to the bleeder screw and bleed it that way. Well I did that now I have NO brakes at all. The pedal does not get hard at all. I did make the mistake of pressing the pedal all the way to the floor more then enough times, now my MC click's when I hit the brakes 3/4 of the way down. What could this be? I have plenty of brake fluid in the car right now, no leaks, no air, started at the right rear tires and then to the left rear and so on... What could it be? Did my MC go bad? Help please...

EL Vap133

You should of bled the brakes the old fashioned way.

918-Hatch

i did and they sucked

i know someone on here know whats wrong

918-Hatch

bump

JDM_Ej

I dunno man bleeding brakes is a pain in the ******* ***. Its by far the most annoying part of any car mantinence. Did you bleed them too much so the MC went dry? You might have sucked in air. There is also a sequence you should do when bleeding the brakes, I don't know it off of the top of my head though.

918-Hatch

damn bump

IHateJDM

bleed it the old fashoned way, and take more time doing it this time.

00CivicGirl

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_Ej &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">. There is also a sequence you should do when bleeding the brakes, I don't know it off of the top of my head though. </TD></TR></TABLE>


I think the sequence goes pass. rear, driver rear, pass. front, driver front.

you always work furthest from the MC and make your way closer

JDM-97CX

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_Ej &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I Its by far the most annoying part of any car mantinence. </TD></TR></TABLE>

You are obviously not a mechanic. Try changing the air/oil separator on a carrera, then tell me you wouldn't rather bleed brakes.

IHateJDM

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00CivicGirl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


I think the sequence goes pass. rear, driver rear, pass. front, driver front.

you always work furthest from the MC and make your way closer</TD></TR></TABLE>

I had been taught to start farthest from the MC (pass rear), but to move diagonally across the car. 1. pass rear 2. driver's front 3. driver's rear 4. pass front. I bled mine that way a few weeks ago, and I have great pedal pressure.

918-Hatch

I tried the old way also after the way the guy told me to do i faild. i started at right rear,left rear, front right, left front.

RedEK9

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IHateJDM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bleed it the old fashoned way, and take more time doing it this time. </TD></TR></TABLE>

had the same problem. Just take your time and you'll figure it out, brakes are really easy to understand!

00CivicGirl

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IHateJDM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I had been taught to start farthest from the MC (pass rear), but to move diagonally across the car. 1. pass rear 2. driver's front 3. driver's rear 4. pass front. I bled mine that way a few weeks ago, and I have great pedal pressure. </TD></TR></TABLE>

yea i dunno if it matters or not.. we did a friends eg working furthest from the MC and going that way it worked just the same ...im sure everyone has a diff way of doing it...hell dude try both. anything is better than no pressure at all

postman

start at pass rear, driver rear, pass frontm opefully you can figure iut whats last,
1. pump pedal 3x and hold
2. open bleeder til pedal hits floor/ close bleeder when it hits
3.repeat/ also make sure theres plenty of fluid.

also he told you to stick the tube into the cup of fluid when you bleed them to see when the bubbles stop. plus it makes for a cleaner job


ps. this a 2 man job, if your doing it on your own that would be why its not working

pss. ive bled brakes plenty enough times i have never noticed the order of which wheel you go in make a diff. not saying it doesnt though

92civichatch1

like said above this IS A TWO PERSON JOB. and u dont need to do all this switching of goin from front to back and diagonal. just bleed the brake area you invaded. so u did the rear drums right? then just bleed them.

heres how to bleed them...
1. have ur buddy pump the brake 3-5x and HOLD DOWN THE PEDAL
2. you open the bleeder in the wheel cylinder(the brake pedal will drop to the floor make sure your buddy doesnt let the pedal up!!!) let the bubbles and brake fluid leave then tighten it back up
3. tell ur buddy to let the brake pedal up and re-do this process about 3x per side.

yea it may be a little more messy but sometimes the old school way is much better than these new school ways.

delsolb16

i had the same problem. my pedal got softer the longer i held it. so i got some AEM brake pads and cross drilled rotors and my brakes are great but the pedal still gets soft like i have air. I bleed the hole system. WHEN YOU BLEED YOUR BRAKES DO NOT PUSH BRAKE PEDAL ALL THE WAY DOWN. YOU CAN DAMAGE YOU CALIAPERS. just pump half way.
maybe ill get some stainless steel braided brake lines and that might help

918-Hatch

thanks guys i will try again

918-Hatch

so its not my mc???

1995Ex_Sedan

No. You push the pedal all the way down.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92civichatch1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">like said above this IS A TWO PERSON JOB. and u dont need to do all this switching of goin from front to back and diagonal. just bleed the brake area you invaded. so u did the rear drums right? then just bleed them.

heres how to bleed them...
1. have ur buddy pump the brake 3-5x and HOLD DOWN THE PEDAL
2. you open the bleeder in the wheel cylinder(the brake pedal will drop to the floor make sure your buddy doesnt let the pedal up!!!) let the bubbles and brake fluid leave then tighten it back up
3. tell ur buddy to let the brake pedal up and re-do this process about 3x per side.

yea it may be a little more messy but sometimes the old school way is much better than these new school ways.</TD></TR></TABLE>

jdmpowder

when u pump your brakes does it hold pressure? if it doesnt than you have air in your system if not than your mc may be the problem

delsolb16

no its half ways then the pedal will drop to the floor when the valve is open. you can also bleed your mc.
1.The two lines connected right at the mc, pump pedal a couple times then open both lines. its a 10m wrench hold then close do about 2 times
on my del sol i think that i have air in the lines to cause i bleed it alot of times already and it stays good for a couple of days but when i turn my AC on my pedal gets soft. why do you guys think that happens

918-Hatch

no pressure at all

918-Hatch

The main thing is I had front brakes befor i blead the back now i have NONE.

Eyal 951

have you rebled? if not, go do that before asking more questions, DO it the conventional way, two people and report back.
If you have done it, everything right, buy a new MC.
Also the replacing the rear shoes and it being loose after is probably cause the adjustment back there was off. try taking a look to see if the shoe adjustments are good. wont cause this problem, but its nice to have good.

Eyal 951

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM-97CX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You are obviously not a mechanic. Try changing the air/oil separator on a carrera, then tell me you wouldn't rather bleed brakes.</TD></TR></TABLE>
try doing anything on a Porsche, I can tell you, they are not easy cars to work on!
Turbo removal is a hard job, I'd rather pull the head.... geuss what you need to remove to replace AOS on my car? turbo!