nateasham

Hey everyone I bought a 97 del sol si 5spd with a b18c5 swap a few months ago. It has mostly just sat while I replaced lights and waited for the custom plate and everything needed to get it insured and on the road. The car has 206,000 kms on it. Guy I bought it from said motor has approx. 105,000 kms (no way to prove this).
So far I have replaced spark plugs, checked the NGK spark plug wires and they’re good so I kept them. I replaced the fuel filter, cleaned the air filter, got an oil change, and balanced the tires. I want to know what else I should do or check to make sure the car is in pristine running condition before I take it ripping a ton and or getting it revving high, i am also curious about what a good shift point is on the b18c5 if im pinning it, i know redline is about 8400 but im new to the DOHC this is the first ive had. So far I’ve gotten it up to 200km/h but I kinda crept it up there not pinned it to the floor. I've read over many times how to check timing but I don’t have a timing gun/light ye I can probably borrow one from a local parts store that has a rent a tool program but can anyone direct me to a very clear instructional, Preferably with pictures or video.

on a side note to anyone that has had a b18c5 before about how fast are you going at 4500 rpm in 5th? compared to my SOHC auto civic (D16Y8) it seems to be revving higher to go the same speed. like i said im new to DOHC but i assumed more power wouldnt have to rev as high to go as fast. at 4500RPM im going 130 km/h on the DOHC stick. on my SOHC auto i go 130 at 3500RPM. is this difference normal or is it a sign of a weakness in the b18

doctorake

Compression check and replace the timing belt/water pump.

ElectronBlue00

First, if you would like it to stay in tip top shape, i'd recommend not topping it out, and going 200 KM/H. If you beat on it at this rate, you'll be doing more harm than good, especially since you don't know the condition of the timing belt, and or timing.

But aside from what you've done i'd inspect the distributor connections to make sure they're in good shape. Look for any leaks on the engine. If the engine is dirty, spray it with degreaser, and watch for any leaks. Wouldn't hurt to check your break pads, and breaks either.

Second, i'd inspect your timing belt., and also your accessory belts. Check all your fluid levels. I.E: Coolant, power steering, break fluids. Maybe even your clutch

As far as for instructional information on how to check timing, a quick google search can answer your needs on how to.

Also to answer your last question 4500 RPM equivilates to about 80MPH, or 128 KM//H. Totally normal for the gearing thats associated in the transmission for the engine.

nateasham

i only took it up there the once after that i took it easy lol. i cant belive i didnt think of comp check thank you. is it best to stick with oem water pump or get an aftermarket/electric? coolant, brake fluid, power steering fluids all checked and topped off at the oil change. how do you check clutch ? never done that before. got a minor leak at the power steering pump but fluid level doesnt drop much at all i keep checking on a regular baisis. and thanks for the speed andswer i was slightly concerend

doctorake

OEM water pump and timing belt.

ElectronBlue00

Personally, on essential parts I wouldn't go with anything else but OEM. Such as timing belts, water pumps. ect.


To check the clutch, if you can't tell if it's slipping while you're driving is to set the EBrake on, put the car in a high gear(such as 4th gear) and let out the clutch peddle slowly. The car SHOULD die instantly, as soon as you release the clutch. If you notice it runs shortly after the clutch peddle is released, or doesn't stall, then your clutch is probably bad.

EJ8_Man

A B18C5 with that many kms on it will probably burn a little oil depending on how it's been treated over it's 105,000km life. Make sure you keep an eye on your fluids.

nateasham

instant stall in 4th with brake. to be honest i didnt thing the clutch is bad but i wish there was a way to tell percentage of life left. without removing it. no signs of oil burning, the power steering pump looks like it leaks but like i said been keeping an eye on it and it doesnt seem to drop at all yet. what signs should i keep an eye for on the cap n rotor and if i replace iether should i do the coil as well? and out of curiousity why was the water pump suggested? operating temps seem normal and not fluctuating, i know i said get to top running condidtion so im curious if this was just a part that regularily fails or if there was a reason it was suggested.