Integra4lyfe069

So anyway heres the deal.

I drive an integra and bought a civic si canada version d16y8 last year to do up and get on the road for my fiancee to learn to drive.

months ago she was finished with learning and can accually drive pretty good now, no stalls no problems, nothing shes pro.

But last week when she was on the way home, now she doesnt beat the car or drive hard,

my crankshaft pulley came out and ate up my keyway walls, so i need to replace my crank cause the keyway is just too bad to repair.

I have bought a new keyway, harmonic pulley, and im going to buy a used d16y8 block or a d16z6 block and start to build a reliable block to put my y8 head on so i can get the car back together for her cause it isnt coming down to giving her the teg !

i was told to go with a d16z6 block and use that but then i ehar that some doesnt fit on y8 blocks, or i gotta change some things.
I'm not making this thread because im a postwhore, iam going to rebuild the engines but i just wanna get to the bottom of the noise so i accually know what im looking for.

Anyway im not to worried about this ****, whats bugging me is this god damn knocking noise. when i turn the car on sometimes the battery light shows up and the engine knocks like theres no tomorrow. I dont wanna go ahead and start rebuilding this engine until i know what the hell this noise is.

Can anyone here tell me whats causing this noise? i assum its spun rod bearing, but does spun rod bearings sound like pistons or valves r gonna knock their way out of the hood LOL.


someone told me to put a z6 into my y8 also but im wondering if theres anything else i need to swap aswell.
right now m ycar is unusable till i fix this cause everytime i start it up now it knocks like its ticcking, i dunno if this is because of spun rod bearings?

i wouldnt be concerned if it was just the pully and keyway and rebuilding the engine. but i dont know what the hell the ticking is

Anon51

z6 block complete and mate it to the y8 head, unless your valves are bent. without hearing the sound its hard to figure out what it is. i'm sure someone could give you a list of things to check tho.

Integra4lyfe069

would valves bend when the pully slipped or a rod spins?

cause this sound was not there until the pulley failed.

the knocking sound is like u know how when ur a kid and u throw a rubber bouncy ball as hard as u can at the floor and make it hit off the roof and the floor as many times as u can just for nothing better to do. well it sounds liek that

constant knock noise

i assure you nothing is loose externally, it is internally. and it wasnt there b4 this happened, im wondering if its in the head or the block, and will it be fixed if i get the z6 block and bolt it up to the y8 head or is it in the head and will i need to do head work.

GRR frustraiting.

Anon51

did the crankshaft pulley come out or did it just break off the key way? cuz those don't just slide off. if you can still turn the crank over by hand try doing a compression test. leak down test would probably work best tho.

Integra4lyfe069

i did compression test before this happened, i got 180 right accross the board. cyl 3 was 178

im thinking the engine was swaped or a new one was put in cause it is healthy as a horse.

the pully bolt came loose and when it came loose the pully started wobbling and ate up the keyway and the accualy keyway entry(walls)

so a new keyway wont hold and the harmonic pully teeth were smoothedned to no more teeth even being left.

i bought new harmonic pully n keyway, tried to get it on, now if i spend hours at it welding and using locktite etc i could do a simple fix, but at this point i just wanna tear it apart and rebuild the block, ESP because of this ticking noise, its pissing me off more then anything, i jus wanna fix the noise, **** the pully, that can be fixed.

i just dont know what the noise is.

slow96lude

sounds like you spun a bearing. I had a buddy that spun a rod bearing and the engine ran about 30 miles to the shop then took a shi*. We ripped the engine out and rebiult the thing in 7 hours, including putting it back in the car and hooking the turbo back up. Still running strong. Another thing it could be is the valves. Remember your crank pully did come off which could lead to the timing belt slipping off. And bending valves. But doesnt sound like the case. When your pulley came off and Im guessing it was very violently it did some damage

HiProfile

The battery light is probably since you can't get a belt on the alternator. If you have managed to get one on, it may be the alternator. It is very uncommon, but a rock or something could be lodged in your alternator.

Check the oil to see if there is any metalic flakes in it, large or small. Large would indicate massive bearing failure, small flecks would indicate the bearings are just starting to go. Y7 and Y8 blocks are known to spin bearings, most people think it's from a poor oil pump design or improper oil jet size for the head.

You won't be able to do jack **** to the bad crank, there are too many vibrations (harmonics) that will ruin any epoxy or weld.


BTW I highly doubt is could be valve related, at least from a timing belt. You still have the timing cover holding the belt in place, and you'd shred the belt before it could manage to rub it's way through. Even if that lower gear moved sideways, it would put more tension on the belt. Only retards and clueless 16yr olds remove their timing belt covers completely on a street motor.

Integra4lyfe069

when it came off, she was half way home, so she kept driving and told me bout it. she was driving it for prolly 10 minutes in daily traffic, stop n go etc, then when it was here i had to take it to a place where i could do work on it and store it cause i cant store a car not working properly in this apartment parking lot.
So i was driving it for about 20 minutes in traffic with the pully still wobbling, the noise is present at this time aswell. Now its in a spot where its gonna have to be moved again this time the pully is off and the keyset and all belts r takin out, i can still move the car but the ticking noise is so loud and horrible. the car will prolly die anyway due to the fact that the belts rnt hookdf up n the pully is off, so the altinator wont get spinned? or is that a different belt.

i figure its the altinator belt cause the battery light is on.

the timeing belt isnt off because of the car being able to move, but maybe it skipped? so timing is off? prolly advanced and prolly why the knocking is there, maybe valves r hitting ?

what does the timing belt affect? the valves or pistons.

also it seems the timing belt is still rotating good cause the crank is still cranking, jus not the outter pully.

slow96lude

its the alt belt or surpentine belt...if the lights on. It will still run untill the battery dies. Well with the pully wobbling like that it is very unbalanced which is wearing out all the bearings. Including the mains because the crank is wobbling right along with the pulley. I would just trash that motor and go buy a d16z6 and put it in there. what motor is in there now? sorry I dont feel like scrooling up

Integra4lyfe069

im not trashing this engine lol, its a brand new head pulling 180 cross all cylnders from compression test
d16y8 vtec with abs, aftermarket headers etc etc maintained beautifully.

it jus needs a new crank, rodbearings pully n keyway and timing adjustment.

i have the new pully, keyway, and im gonna pickup a d16z6 block n jus swap it.

i was jus wondering what the noise was, and i think i cleared it up ;p.

trashing engines is stupid anyway, u can always use or rebuild them, i keep everything from cars ;p

Integra4lyfe069

you are right, i noticed you said belt shredding could occur, and it has, i noticed some strands of belt on the outter end twords the header side of the engine, so im guessing it shifted and shredding it just a little bit to produce a small strand. i noticed this as i noticed the pully wobble, removed everything since then.

So with that said, the timing belt must of jumped teeth or something also ? causing something to advance timing and maybe start hitting or bending **** causing the knock ?

slow96lude

I would check the oil... run a magnet through it. Those kind of noises dont just clear up unless the rod bearing have jumped one another and your runing on rod and one half the bearing. By trashing the motor I meant tear it down and put another block under that head. A new crank is going to cost you about as much as a complete bottom end from the local craigslist or JY

Integra4lyfe069

true that, i understand now, So what ima do is:
tell me if i should change anything. I'm going to keep the car off the road until its rebuilt and i want it done properly so im gonna do everything and just build a reliable futur turbo build. so ima peice this together slowly.

Buy a comlpete d16z6 block from scrap yard. (these come from 92-95 civics?)
Buy oem timing belt
Buy brand new rod bearings (oem or after market?)
buy piston rings
buy oem headstuds
buy all new gasket kit oem
buy water pump
buy thermostat

resurface head
block hone
micropolish the z6 crankshaft

this should get me back on the road in GOOD condition and give me a decent platform to build on later

lmk if its worth waiting the extra month or two and getting rods/pistons while im at it.
also should i sleeve the block ?

Anon51

Clarification

92-95 Civic EX Block. the LX/DX didn't come with the z6
Assuming you get a complete block, you don't need rod bearings, piston rings or block honing depending on the condition of the block.

don't really need all new gaskets. just a head gasket.
probably don't need to micropolish the z6 crank or re-resurface the head. just check for warpage.

just trying to save you some cash here.

Integra4lyfe069

nice man thanks for your input, i just dont want anything to fail again and have to rip **** back out u know ;p

so im looking at this then.,

Buy a comlpete d16z6 block from scrap yard. (92-95 civics EX)
Buy oem timing belt
Buy head gasket

also just wondering one simple thing.

can you put a d16z6 block on a d16y8 head without switching ecu's and converting from obdII to obd 1 and wire harnesses?

Integra4lyfe069

bump for help

slow96lude

the only thing is the obd2 vehicles have a crank angle sensor on the crank and the dizzy. SO the z6 would need that if you want to run your obd2 setup you already have

Integra4lyfe069

so how would i go about swapping those two or do i jus need to swap the one on the crank,

im keeping the y8 head so if the sensor is already on the dizzy and my car is already obdII i shouldnt have to touch this one.

is there any detailed procedure or any pics i could get on how to do the crank one ?

Integra4lyfe069

so i called every scrap yard there is and there just inst a d16z6 block so heres my option now.

REBUILD the y8 block with z6 parts.

i called honda and scrap yards and came up with these prices for these parts which ima individually obtain over the next week. What i need to know is how much are rod bearings roughly and is there anymore parts to this i would need?

used d16z6 crankshaft $?? (over 1 grand from honda **** that.)
used d16y8 harmonic pully 75$ (scrap yard) $275 from honda new.
*d16y8 key $2 oem from honda i already have this
d16y8 rod bearings $??
1996 d16y8 head gasket 100$ i already have this oem from honda
1996 d16y8 timing belt $76 oem from honda i already have this.
1996 d16z6 oil pump honda quoted 176$, should i pick this up to keep the oiling flow good for for the z6 crank?> cause the y8 pump wont produce enough oil for the extra holes.

Integra4lyfe069

bump

Anon51

yes you can put a y8 head on a z6 block. you actually don't have to have the crank fluctuation censor. (bypassable) ff-squad has a pictured tutorial on how to do it for people that don't wanna use that sensor.

apexi_rsx

run a z6 shortblock with a y8 pan and y8 oil pump and sump. will work to the T

datmex407

damn integra4lyfe... i was just googling what i was going threw shi* sucks.... i have the same exact problem as you haha i also have the d16y8 ..engine and i hear the same exact noise you hear and everything else . and i am planing on getting another engine from a junk yard my friend works at for $600.00 bucks. the entire engine ,but i don't really know much so i signed up on here to get a little advice and a bit of help do you guy's think i should go head and get it? or just repair my engine instead? i'm not sure if my engines rebuiltable as i'am having the same issue as Integra4Lyfe069 my engine makes a loud *** noise and it sounds like my engines =f**** but if not i will do the same as integra and go head and get a block,and allll the other stuff that i need and have a buddy help me build it back

so like i said let me know what you guys think will be cheaper....and better for me ........replacing or fixing my original
the engine at the junk yard has 87k... my original has 103,000 but i guess its screwed so it doesn't really matter i just wanna know if its cheaper to rebuild it or just buyin the engine and get my friend to install it for me
well hope i get a reply as this is my first post ever......thx........ahead