B2FiNiTY

iTrader: (2)

Interested in how difficult it is with the line still on the car? What tools do you recommend?

drunknbass

easy , get a flaring kit

pdiggitydogg

it is easy
http://www.joesfalcon.com/gentip2/gentip2.html

B2FiNiTY

iTrader: (2)

Looks easy thanks!

B2FiNiTY

iTrader: (2)

Is it easy with the lines still on the car?

im_poor

its easier when it is off, but im sure its not that hard while still on the car.

pdiggitydogg

Id definately remove them if I could

B2FiNiTY

iTrader: (2)

I can't. It's one of the lines that goes to the rear brakes. Need to cutt off a fitting on the prop valve, and reflare.

pdiggitydogg

well...good luck then

Hawkze_2.3

This is just my personal experience, but I couldn't get a single one of my flares to work with an Autozone flaring tool...they all would leak. This was with the lines off of the car, too...

Good luck to you, though, and I would test it on another brake line before you do your car

NIKE SB'd

iTrader: (1)

why exactly are you cutting off the line? are there any other ways around cutting and re-flairing?

B2FiNiTY

iTrader: (2)

I'm going to try a ghetto fab method of connectiong to hard lines with a fuel hose.

Hawkze_2.3

FYI, hose clamps do not work...at all.....even if you clamp the **** out of 4 of them...

pdiggitydogg

if you double-flare they shouldnt leak at all
Did you use the right size, hawk?

im_poor

autozone one worked for me....

NIKE SB'd

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B2FiNiTY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm going to try a ghetto fab method of connectiong to hard lines with a fuel hose. </TD></TR></TABLE>

okay but why? what is the point/benefit to what you are doing?

B2FiNiTY

iTrader: (2)

That way I don't have to cut my hardlines.

NIKE SB'd

iTrader: (1)

okay but what are you doing, changing out the propo valve?

B2FiNiTY

iTrader: (2)

I already removed the stock prop valve but ran into a problem. The thread on one of the fittings is not clean anymore and won't go into the prop valve all the way.

Hawkze_2.3

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pdiggitydogg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you double-flare they shouldnt leak at all
Did you use the right size, hawk?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I double flared them with the right size, but I couldn't get the damn needle-punch deal on the tool to stay straight, so each flare was a little angled to one side. After I beat several holes in the concrete with my head, I gave up and bought already flared lines...


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B2FiNiTY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I already removed the stock prop valve but ran into a problem. The thread on one of the fittings is not clean anymore and won't go into the prop valve all the way. </TD></TR></TABLE>

You should be able to find one at the junkyard easily and cheaply...

B2FiNiTY

iTrader: (2)

The trouble of replacing the whole line is not worth it. This line runs from the prop valve to the rear calipers.

pdiggitydogg

couldnt you cut it, flare both ends, and put a dual male section in between?
that wouldnt leak.

B2FiNiTY

iTrader: (2)

Yes but I want to avoid cutting it so I'm just putting a hose in between. Hope it works.

NIKE SB'd

iTrader: (1)

you should be able to re-thread the fitting, those fittings on the hardlines are SOFT.

tominos

are u clamping the hose with a hose clamp? will that even hold?