JReed

sup guys, i've been convinced to go with a GSR swap and i was wondering what else to do... i can't decide whether i want to go all motor or FI... i was thinking about getting either a crower or toda stroker kit, and then a turbo... granted these will all come within a LONG time from each other... this year the motor, then several months later the stroker, then several months later the turbo... my question is, i know on domestic stroker engines, they are usually equipped with high comp. pistons... is this the case on honda engines as well? if so, what is the compression of the kits i mentioned... the reason i want to do this is because i want the low end torque of a stroker, with the high end of a turbo charged engine.... would this be plausible to do... i know it would cost a whole crap load of money, but i'm basically playing around with the idea now and just wanted some feedback... thanks

Dancing is Forbidden

Do some research. I know the Toda stroker kit has high compression. The Crower might not though. Look it up. Here I did it for you:
Engine Bore Stroke Total Displacement
B16A 81mm 89mm 1.83L
B16A 84mm 89mm 1.97L
B16A 87mm 89mm 2.12L
B18 Series (A, B, C) 81mm 92mm 1.90L
B18 Series (A, B, C) and B20B (CR-V) 84mm 92mm 2.04L
B18 Series (A, B, C) and B20B (CR-V) 87mm 92mm 2.19L
B18 Series (A, B, C) 81mm 95mm 1.96L
B18 Series (A, B, C) and B20B (CR-V) 84mm 95mm 2.10L
B18 Series (A, B, C) and B20B (CR-V) 87mm 95mm 2.26L

Although I would not go as big a bore as some of those, eh. Do what you want.




[Modified by EF9_SiR, 7:17 PM 2/22/2003]

DragII

stroker, or turbo, not both.

Dancing is Forbidden

thats exactly what I was trying to get at. The Rod/stroke ratio is crazy.

JReed

that's cool... so you all don't think it would be a good idea... i figured that even if it would work, it would take a lot of money to get it tuned correctly... anybody else have an opinion on this...

DragII

it's not much of an opinion as it is fact. you don't want higher rod stroke ratio, and higher compression with turbo motors. tune all you want, it will still blow up.
if you want more displacement, bore it out.

things that are good for NA, are almost NEVER good for turbo.


[Modified by DragII, 9:13 AM 2/23/2003]

havalilsi

put in the engine, turbo it and run low boost until you can build it the sleeve it and bore to 84mm. or just leave it stock bore, you'll have a bit less torque, but then on a fwd thats not always that bad

JReed

DragII

the differance is that honda stroker kits will give you a poor rod stroke ratio, and higher compression. many people building turbo honda motors will actually destroke the motor for better balance. like using a b20 block, and a B17 crank. When you are dealing with a motor that was never intended for FI, you need to take precautions not as necessary on bulletproof factory blocks like you would find in the skyline.

If displacement is your issue.....the best way to get it done on a turbo honda is bore it, and sleeve it.


[Modified by DragII, 9:04 PM 2/23/2003]

JReed

alright, thanks alot man, i understand now.... so do you think i would be better off to go turbo or all motor if i want to drag it... it seems like it would be better to build a bulletproof bottom end, bore out and sleeve it, and boost it... i'd also like to port and polish the head and intake but i know that increases compression, i could run a thicker head gasket for that though... then i want to upgrade the valvetrain and add a set of turbo profile cams... i think it would be pretty bad *** by then... does anyone sell forged crankshafts for honda engines???

Gravy

that is all b/s if you get a crower stroker you can order an compression you want. and besides crower doesnt mess with the rod ratio the change wrist pin location and crank stroke. if you are going to spend all this money i would go: SLEEVES, STROKER, TURBO. you will have a strong *** motor.

JReed

not being an *** or anything, but do you have any credentials to back up any of that stuff you said??? and wouldn't changing the stroke change the rod/stroke ration since one is different than it started off as...


[Modified by JReedCivicMan, 2:48 PM 2/24/2003]

Gravy

so just becasue i only have 8 post i dont have crudentials. well how about frank from sfp is building a 2.4 gsr. you think that the rod is actually going to be a 2.4. if he changed the actuall rod length the that means the the piston is going to be half way out the block. nope he gets a custom crank made and moves the wrist pin so that it becomes a 2.4.

and what do you think the fastest cars are running. 2.0 or higher.



[Modified by GRTechnologies, 10:10 AM 2/24/2003]

JReed

dude... don't get your panties in a bunch... i hadn't ever heard of you before and was just trying to see if you knew what you were talking about... you would do the same so cool off, here ...

Dancing is Forbidden

Still doesnt change the fact that the rod/stroke ratio is going to be all whacked out on a rower Stroker kit. Look at the numbers.

DragII

yes you can always substitute lower compression pistons, but r/s ratio is more important. there will always be that one guy that points to the fact that ANYTHING can be done if you have enough time and money.

bore it, sleeve it, boost it. it's the way to go...especially if you do not have a small fortune to throw into your car. I know of 8 cars personally that run under 11 sec in the 1/4. not a single one has a stroker kit. half are not even bored.

JReed

about how much would it cost for a reputable shop to bore and sleeve a gsr for me... i'd wanna put the kit on myself, but i want someone else to bore and sleeve it... if i did that, how much could i boost.... and do those cars you are talking about have full interior, i don't wanna run a stripper but i'd like to hit 12's

DragII

a couple of them have full interior. the others are somewhat stripped.

http://www.goldeneaglemfg.com/sleeves.htm these are the people you need to contact to get sleeved.

dfoxengr

add a deckplate... better RS ratio...and dont get a stroker kit, just get an EAGLE 95mm crank theyre the best, and buy separate pists, and rods..

JReed

will that eagle crank help any or is it just a forged crank... how much does a piece like that run???

and btw... for forged JE Pistons, Crower Rods, Eagle Crank, and the block bored and sleeved, how much am i looking to spend, ballpark... i'd probably do the rods and pistons myself, but give me a ballpark for all of the aforementioned parts installed by a reputable shop...

dfoxengr

uhh stock is 89mm and the eagle is 95..lol...
95 cranks are what make a stroker kit...

95 crank is about 800 bux..to do everything, lol...ur looking upwards of about 3500-4000 installed...


[Modified by hybridvteceg, 12:29 AM 2/25/2003]

Dancing is Forbidden

Crower rods alone are 800. I wouldnt blow my money on them Eagle Rods are fine. I have Eagle Rods and Wiseco pistons coming my way as we speak.

JReed

alright so that crank would help the low end a bit, then i should try a set of Eagle rods... this is gonna cost a lotta money... i'm gonna have to spread it out over a long time, but it'll be worth it when i'm done...

Gravy

if you do get eagle rods make sure to get stronger rod bolts those are kind of weak.

dc2teggy509

im looking into a turbo kit with a stroker kit the stroker kit im getting is at a 9:4 compression ratio which is low enough to run 9lbs daily which im going to do i have already talked to shops and did my research, then after awhile im going to sleeve the block shop is going to charge me 550 for a tune.