93bubble87

ok so i just got started on my gsr swap into an eg and i need some help. The eg was an automatic.

1. im looking for the mount from auto to manual for the trans. Whats the cheapest one to buy. should i go Ebay?

2. Can i use the motor mounts that are still on the B18?

3. i need a p28 ecu anyone in the nyc region have one for sale?

4. i need an obd2 to obd1 adapter. where can i get this?

If you have any info on helping me out let me know

thanks

Civicfanatic_09

You gonna run Hondata or no, are you using the stock intake manifold? Ebay is where to get the jumper harness, it's like 50 bucks. You are able to use the stock mounts from the gsr if you have both of them. If you are going to run the stock intake manifold, and are NOT going to use Hondata, you need to buy a P72 ecu.

93bubble87

hmm ..this is the update. im getting the obd2 to obd1 harness for 60 bucks at v series works in nyc. my mechanic is telling me to get a p28 ecu to avoid harness changes in the 93 eg. should i get the p28 or just by the harness jumper.

also if i get the p28 does it matter if the ecu came from a automatic civic?

Civicfanatic_09

You don't need a jumper harness to put this motor in an EG, the 0bd2 harness, if I'm not mistaken will plug into the civic chasis harness. All you have to run is IAB wires, and Knock sensor wires. Yes it does matter if you run an auto ecu, as it will throw a check engine light. Get a p72 ecu and it will plug into the civic chasis harness where you ecu is now.

93bubble87

wow this guy seems to be pretty reputable. i dont know about that any more ... i dont what to do now im gonna ask around tomorrow. thanks for the relpy civicfanatic it might save me from buying the ecu.

Does any one else have some info about civicfanatics reply?

Thanks

93bubble87

UPDATE ok im going to trade my p72 for a p30 and swapping a obd1 dizzy for my obd2 dizzy. these should all fix my problem without any wiring issues correct? Again im running a 97 grs in a 93 auto hatch

B18CivicEJ8

Why would you want to do that? A P30 ECU is for a B16 engine. It does not have the controls to close your Intake Air Butterfly valve in the dual-stage intake manifold on a stock GS-R motor. Plus, the fuel maps are different.

You DO NOT need to swap your dizzy or your alternator if you are putting a OBD2 GSR motor into an OBD1 car. If you use the GSR engine harness, it should plug directly into your plugs at the shock tower. You may have to run 2-3 wires, 1 for IAB and 1 for VTEC and 1 for the knock sensor, at most.

Whoever is telling you you will have wiring issues, is flat out wrong. You should take your car somewhere else if he is insisting that what I'm telling you does not work. It does, I have seen it personally.

All the info you need is here:

https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...highlight=swap

93bubble87

ok im gonna talk to him.. he might be going the easy way out b/c he is doing the swap for cheap.

also thanks alot for that thread posting. that link has most of my answers i guess i should of searched better thanks again man

bb4socal

Bro...the above guys are right. I will be doing the same swap, including the auto to manual. Use the GSR harness, IT WILL connect straight to the shock tower harnesses. Nothing, i mean nothing needs to be changed at the motor. The ecu you need is a obd1 p72 manual. hasport and avid sell the one mount for the auto to manual conversion. as for the tbelt side mount and rear mount, use 94-01 integra mounts. This is going to be the cheapest way of doing the swap. not the way your mechanic is saying. if you have any questions, pm me. Ive done hours of research and im pretty informed about this stuff. Also dont forget all the pieces you need for the auto to manua ie: master cylinder, slave cylinder, lines, etc.

Luke G.

Dont go ebay on anything.

all b18c1 motor mounts will work

Your car is obd1?

bb4socal

For the OP setup, "all" b18 motor mounts will not work. He has an auto, he will need the special mount for the trans mount. ie: hasport, avid.

Yes his car is obd1.

FYI.. i quote this from another member." its not the motor that makes it obd1 or obd2 its the ecu."

4wd eg6

u can used the p72 ecu from a 94-95 integra. i got a b20z from a 2001 honda and my eg is a 92 what i did to make all the plugs fit i get all thengine wires froma 94-95 integra and the p72 ecu and make like 2 or 3 plugs changes on some sensors but everithing is working good so far.

93bubble87

ya i ordered the mount i paid 118 off ebay its made by avid. thats 1 good thing i did so far .Also my mechanic told me tonite that he is gonna keep the gsr harness and modify it - this is what should be done right?

the only thing he is sticking with is a p28 computer. im going to swap my obd2 with a p30/obd1 tomorrow. i know nothing of this ecu except what the kid is telling me and that its jdm... he said its obd1 dohc vtec. is he right? what numbers should i look for on the tag?

B18CivicEJ8

Again, the P30 is for a DOHC VTEC B16! It does not have the correct fuel and timing maps for a GS-R engine. The P28 is for a SOHC VTEC. It does not have the correct fuel and timing maps for a GS-R engine and will run it lean (very bad). Both do not have a way to run the Intake Air Bypass valves in the GS-R's dual stage intake manifold. If you are not swapping intake manifolds, then these ECUs will run your engine poorly. Their VTEC engagement points are totally different. Are you going to get either of these ECUs chipped with a custom program? You will have to get either of them chipped with a B18C basemap in order to run your engine properly. Then you'll have to swap out your intake manifold with a Skunk2 one. Seriously, if you are running stock for now, get a OBD1 P72 ECU. It's not like an OBD1 P72 ECU is ultra rare, expensive, or hard to find. Your mechanic is making this way more complicated than it should be.

You have an EG. The chassis harness splits at the shock towers just like an Integra does. You take your OBD2 GS-R engine, you use the OBD2 GS-R engine harness, and plug it into the chassis. You add 3 wires, IAB, Knock, VTEC. You plug in your OBD1 P72 ECU. Good to go. No swapping dizzys, no swapping alternators, and no swapping injectors. EGs are the easiest to swap engines into. You don't have to deal with jumper harnesses, and all the other crap I had to deal with. Like I said before, it looks like your mechanic is an amateur when it comes to swapping Honda engines. Take it somewhere else.

93bubble87

Dam man you narrowed it down pretty simple. im gonna look for the obd1 p72.

i hope he is gonna run the right wires. is there a thread with some pictures that culd help me identify. don't do any searching for me just let me know if you know any off hand.

again i really appreciate it .. im sitting here going crazy trying to figure out what this guy is doing with my car.

B18CivicEJ8

http://www.ff-squad.com/tech/wiring/wiring.92-95.jpg

Here's a pic of the pin out of any OBD1 ECU. The pic also describes where the 3 wires you need that will have to be added to the chassis wiring harness.

Here's a link from the same site that totally backs up what I'm telling you.

http://technet.ff-squad.com/hybrid.92-95.obd2.htm

I'm pretty sure I've finally convinced you that what I've said is the truth. So if your mechanic continues to insist on anything other than what I and others have shown you, kindly ask for your car and engine back and tow it somewhere else, preferably to a shop that has more experience swapping Hondas. Think about it, it's 2009. A OBD2 GSR swap into an EG has been done over and over for the last 13 years. These are not new concepts or ideas. If he didn't know this information already, then he shouldn't be doing Honda/Acura engine swaps.

luispizarro25

This guy above speaks the truth...
Dont worry about what your mechanic says and you know what you should try and do it yourself. You will really learn how everything works and what parts are call. I just finished mine like 3 months ago and im 99.9% happy for the job i did. It is a 94 B18C (GSR not R) into my 93 Ej1. Glad i had vtec from my d16z6 kuz otherwise it wouldve been more wiring. i ran the knock sensor. However the 0.01% im not happy of is that i didnt run the AIB. Im cant really recall if there was an extra plug from my old d16 harness and by mistake i plug that into the AIB or its just unplug. i still have to check that kuz im pretty sure they dont work. As a matter of fact yesterday i checked and at the parking lot i reved the car pass 6K RPM and the valve wouldnt open, which lead me to the conclusion that its not pluged. However im not throwing codes which i dont understand. I will have wire this before winter comes and make sure it works properly.

Not trying to jack the thread but just to tell you some experience about the swap into your car. ill subscribe to this and see how your swap goes. good luck

btw: for the guy above if you dont mind could you pm me and tell me why im not throughing codes even when my AIB might not be connected? thanks

93bubble87

Update!!

i picked up my car last night ran good on side streets.

1.i took it on the highway and it felt like it motor wouldn't rev correctly.

2. i park the car and realize that i cant take out the key. the car was an auto so i think the shift lock doesn't disengage when we swapped the brake pedals

3. driving back from my friends house i got stuck b/c the car felt like it wouldn't roll. it felt like the e brake was always on...so i let the car cool down for like 20 min called a tow truck and then all of a sudden it started to roll free in neutral. also the brake petal was really high and hard to push down. i floored it home didn't want to wait for AAA at 2:30 am

i was expecting a turn key ...guess not... and is a 3 inch full exhaust without any cats ok?

civicgsr

You need to be more specific here. Redline too low? Hesitation preventing higher revs?

Haven't done this swap myself but it sounds about right.

I'm guessing drum brakes? If the car sat for a while, you may have some issues there. A sticky e-brake cable could be the culprit (my super beater mill nissan pickup has this problem)....or any part of the system. The shoes heat up, expand and cause them to "engage".

If you have disk brakes, same possibility. The piston could have frozen giving you the same results.

This is why you need to do your own work That way you can track down your problems and really understand how everything works.

civicgsr

IAB will not throw a code. Also, the IAB sits open when the engine is not running. You need to check and see if it closes when you start the engine. Also, you may need to exercise the vacuum canister that controls it. Reach down, open and close the IAB a few times.

Are you running a JDM or USDM ECU? Most JDM versions require a ground wheras the USDM requires 12v (the yellow/black wire).

You're best bet is to use the Helm's diagnostic and you'll find the problem.

93bubble87

[QUOTE=civicgsr;39675440]You need to be more specific here. Redline too low? Hesitation preventing higher revs?


yes the car wont rev it hesitates then i give it wot and high rps it starts to pull a lil. it mosltly does it in mid range.


I'm guessing drum brakes? If the car sat for a while, you may have some issues there. A sticky e-brake cable could be the culprit (my super beater mill nissan pickup has this problem)....or any part of the system. The shoes heat up, expand and cause them to "engage".

If you have disk brakes, same possibility. The piston could have frozen giving you the same results.


what should i do. change ebrake cable? and bleed the brakes?

civicgsr

Any engine codes? Does your CEL come on when you turn on the car?



You'll need to do some troubleshooting before you start ordering parts. You'll need help to see if the cables are moving, under the car. If they are, then the problem is in the drum.

93bubble87

ya it does. i sold the gsr exhaust before he could pull the o2 sensors off.. he checked the code its only the o2 sensor

civicgsr

Hmmm...a missing O2 sensor shouldn't cause that much trouble. I wonder if the ignition timing is way off.

93bubble87

im gonna take a pic of the distributor... but i also drove the car before i pulled the motor...it ran fine. i think my ebrake is sticking. every time i lift it it doesn't regain its tension when its back down. it may have overheated the engine and caused it to run funny im not too sure