good coilovers for under a grand, NOT including tein
#1
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good coilovers for under a grand, NOT including tein
Just wondering if you guys would help me out and
mention any full coilovers you know of, that run under a grand,
or at least close to a grand.
aside from tein(i know all about tein, and none of their products for under a grand are suitable).
adjustable damping is a must,
adjustable stroke is highly needed, but I guess a shortened shock body can work too.
thanks for any/all replies!
mention any full coilovers you know of, that run under a grand,
or at least close to a grand.
aside from tein(i know all about tein, and none of their products for under a grand are suitable).
adjustable damping is a must,
adjustable stroke is highly needed, but I guess a shortened shock body can work too.
thanks for any/all replies!
#2
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Re: good coilovers for under a grand, NOT including tein (Tad)
Neuspeed Koni Yellows + Ground-Control coilover sleeves + Eibach ERS custom spring rates.
It should come very close to a grand, since you gotta pay for the tax and **** from Ground-Control.
It should come very close to a grand, since you gotta pay for the tax and **** from Ground-Control.
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Re: good coilovers for under a grand, NOT including tein (VX)
My total for the Koni's + the Ground-Control coilover sleeves and custom springs:
$509 + $370 = $879 This is the final shipped price.
I got my shocks from Lightning Motorsports (PM: lightning).
And I got the coilover sleeves and springs directly from Ground-Control.
$509 + $370 = $879 This is the final shipped price.
I got my shocks from Lightning Motorsports (PM: lightning).
And I got the coilover sleeves and springs directly from Ground-Control.
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Re: good coilovers for under a grand, NOT including tein (VX)
i suggest skunk 2 or eibach GC. spring rate of 450-500 and 320-380. dampers use tokico illuminas.
my total illumina- 365, skunks 200. total $565.
my total illumina- 365, skunks 200. total $565.
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zeal b2's are like $1100 at http://www.aj-racing.com and that will be way better than any tein or coilover strut combo out there.
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#8
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ok i'm not interested in any spring/shock combo.
that is my "other" option,
right now i'm trying to see whats out there as far as full coilovers go.
And suspension travel is VERY important,
as I drive an EG hatch.. and y'all know you gotta dump em, heh.
also I already have 450/350lb coilover springs on kyb agx's. with some tweaks for an extra 1.5" of travel all around.
only prob.. the agx's are on their way to the graveyard. I rode around way too low for too long before I got the extra travel, and now they dont dampen as they should.
I was thinking about getting koni's and keeping my springs, but the shape of the shock is different from the agx's, and i'm not sure i'd be able to do the suspension travel tweak on em.
if I could that'd be sweet! all i'd need is shocks, I like my springs just fine.
that is my "other" option,
right now i'm trying to see whats out there as far as full coilovers go.
And suspension travel is VERY important,
as I drive an EG hatch.. and y'all know you gotta dump em, heh.
also I already have 450/350lb coilover springs on kyb agx's. with some tweaks for an extra 1.5" of travel all around.
only prob.. the agx's are on their way to the graveyard. I rode around way too low for too long before I got the extra travel, and now they dont dampen as they should.
I was thinking about getting koni's and keeping my springs, but the shape of the shock is different from the agx's, and i'm not sure i'd be able to do the suspension travel tweak on em.
if I could that'd be sweet! all i'd need is shocks, I like my springs just fine.
#9
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Re: (Tad)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tad »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i'm not sure i'd be able to do the suspension travel tweak on em.
if I could that'd be sweet! all i'd need is shocks, I like my springs just fine.</TD></TR></TABLE>
What I did was shove my Koni's down into the front lower damping fork. That lowered my car about an extra 1.25" or so. I just ziptied the braklines securly onto the shock and fork. And I also bought 2 Ground-Control upper mounts which are $75 per pair. They helped prevent my shocks from bottoming out and let them work in a better optimal range.
if I could that'd be sweet! all i'd need is shocks, I like my springs just fine.</TD></TR></TABLE>
What I did was shove my Koni's down into the front lower damping fork. That lowered my car about an extra 1.25" or so. I just ziptied the braklines securly onto the shock and fork. And I also bought 2 Ground-Control upper mounts which are $75 per pair. They helped prevent my shocks from bottoming out and let them work in a better optimal range.
#10
Re: (VX)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
What I did was shove my Koni's down into the front lower damping fork. That lowered my car about an extra 1.25" or so. I just ziptied the braklines securly onto the shock and fork. And I also bought 2 Ground-Control upper mounts which are $75 per pair. They helped prevent my shocks from bottoming out and let them work in a better optimal range.</TD></TR></TABLE>
got pics?
What I did was shove my Koni's down into the front lower damping fork. That lowered my car about an extra 1.25" or so. I just ziptied the braklines securly onto the shock and fork. And I also bought 2 Ground-Control upper mounts which are $75 per pair. They helped prevent my shocks from bottoming out and let them work in a better optimal range.</TD></TR></TABLE>
got pics?
#11
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Re: (VX)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
What I did was shove my Koni's down into the front lower damping fork. That lowered my car about an extra 1.25" or so. I just ziptied the braklines securly onto the shock and fork. And I also bought 2 Ground-Control upper mounts which are $75 per pair. They helped prevent my shocks from bottoming out and let them work in a better optimal range.</TD></TR></TABLE>
aaahhh! that solves one of my problems with the konis
agx's and illuminas are built such that you can knock off the brakeline/fork mount and move it up. but the konis want u to attach it and have an indent that makes u put itin the stock location.
never thot of just leaving it off alltogether.
the shock wasnt too skinny(without the brakeline/fork mount) for the fork to grab onto correctly?
and yeah, my other tweak was custom upper mounts by benen(same as gcs' but cheaper).
again.. on my agx's I could grind down the little disc at the top so the shock could actually move INTO the mount. konis dont have this and my mounts are 1.5" in the rear(gc's are only .75" all around) which is pretty deep, I dont want the top of the shock to ever run into the mount before the bumpstop stops it.
hope that makes sense.
What I did was shove my Koni's down into the front lower damping fork. That lowered my car about an extra 1.25" or so. I just ziptied the braklines securly onto the shock and fork. And I also bought 2 Ground-Control upper mounts which are $75 per pair. They helped prevent my shocks from bottoming out and let them work in a better optimal range.</TD></TR></TABLE>
aaahhh! that solves one of my problems with the konis
agx's and illuminas are built such that you can knock off the brakeline/fork mount and move it up. but the konis want u to attach it and have an indent that makes u put itin the stock location.
never thot of just leaving it off alltogether.
the shock wasnt too skinny(without the brakeline/fork mount) for the fork to grab onto correctly?
and yeah, my other tweak was custom upper mounts by benen(same as gcs' but cheaper).
again.. on my agx's I could grind down the little disc at the top so the shock could actually move INTO the mount. konis dont have this and my mounts are 1.5" in the rear(gc's are only .75" all around) which is pretty deep, I dont want the top of the shock to ever run into the mount before the bumpstop stops it.
hope that makes sense.
#15
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Re: (Chris y0!)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris y0! »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dude, you can get tein SS from vtecvoodoo for $875
16 way adjustable...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Agreed.
16 way adjustable...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Agreed.
#16
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Re: (Chris y0!)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris y0! »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dude, you can get tein SS from vtecvoodoo for $875
16 way adjustable...</TD></TR></TABLE>
the springs have shitty rates(waaaay stiffer in front than back)
and the shock body is only shorter by .6" front, and like .8" rear
and i'm prety sure the 875 is before shipping.. which plunks it over 900bux.
16 way adjustable...</TD></TR></TABLE>
the springs have shitty rates(waaaay stiffer in front than back)
and the shock body is only shorter by .6" front, and like .8" rear
and i'm prety sure the 875 is before shipping.. which plunks it over 900bux.
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Re: good coilovers for under a grand, NOT including tein (Rand0mB18c)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rand0mB18c »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">apexi world sports i believe thats the name you can get them for 700-800</TD></TR></TABLE>
damping not adjustable...
damping not adjustable...
#19
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Re: (Tad)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tad »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the shock wasnt too skinny(without the brakeline/fork mount) for the fork to grab onto correctly?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Nope, i took the stock fork, threaded the bolt in the fork so the threads started grabbing. And shoved the Koni Shock down in it. It takes some effort and maneuvering to work the shock all the way down in the fork. And it's a very tight fit.
Nope, i took the stock fork, threaded the bolt in the fork so the threads started grabbing. And shoved the Koni Shock down in it. It takes some effort and maneuvering to work the shock all the way down in the fork. And it's a very tight fit.
#20
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Re: (Chris y0!)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris y0! »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">alright let me ask you this... what exactly do you do with your car that tein SS is insufficient?</TD></TR></TABLE>
dump it and still try to use it as a proper handling machine,
i'm not dumped like some of the ppl on this board,
but i'm dropped enuf that bottoming out is a major issue... suppose I should have mentioned that earlier,hehe
dump it and still try to use it as a proper handling machine,
i'm not dumped like some of the ppl on this board,
but i'm dropped enuf that bottoming out is a major issue... suppose I should have mentioned that earlier,hehe
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Re: (Tad)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tad »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dump it and still try to use it as a proper handling machine</TD></TR></TABLE>
so you don't even track the car? skrew tein SS then...
just get koni reds and ground controls.
so you don't even track the car? skrew tein SS then...
just get koni reds and ground controls.
#22
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Re: (VX)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Nope, i took the stock fork, threaded the bolt in the fork so the threads started grabbing. And shoved the Koni Shock down in it. It takes some effort and maneuvering to work the shock all the way down in the fork. And it's a very tight fit.</TD></TR></TABLE>
aah, ok. sounds good.
and if its that close of a fit, it is possible to remove material from the fork without
damaging it. especially if its only a small ammount.
(you can also get older civic forks with are thicker.. then remove material from them).
Nope, i took the stock fork, threaded the bolt in the fork so the threads started grabbing. And shoved the Koni Shock down in it. It takes some effort and maneuvering to work the shock all the way down in the fork. And it's a very tight fit.</TD></TR></TABLE>
aah, ok. sounds good.
and if its that close of a fit, it is possible to remove material from the fork without
damaging it. especially if its only a small ammount.
(you can also get older civic forks with are thicker.. then remove material from them).
#24
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Re: (gdrum)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gdrum »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">mrhealtoe has apexi world sport coilovesr for 750 shipd...and for the price you cant go wrong..</TD></TR></TABLE>
as some1 mentioned before,
they are not damping adjustable,
and I doubt they are stroke adjustable either.
you'd be paying 750bux for really nice looking, and durable springs/shocks.
as some1 mentioned before,
they are not damping adjustable,
and I doubt they are stroke adjustable either.
you'd be paying 750bux for really nice looking, and durable springs/shocks.
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Re: (Tad)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tad »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
dump it and still try to use it as a proper handling machine,
but i'm dropped enuf that bottoming out is a major issue... suppose I should have mentioned that earlier,hehe</TD></TR></TABLE>
whats dropped enought that bottoming out is a major issue???my is slammed 2.75" in the fron and 2.5" in the back and i have no clearancing issues.. and i live in nj to make things worse... sure my ride is shitty but o well.
dump it and still try to use it as a proper handling machine,
but i'm dropped enuf that bottoming out is a major issue... suppose I should have mentioned that earlier,hehe</TD></TR></TABLE>
whats dropped enought that bottoming out is a major issue???my is slammed 2.75" in the fron and 2.5" in the back and i have no clearancing issues.. and i live in nj to make things worse... sure my ride is shitty but o well.