zerovandez

iTrader: (1)

So am ready to drop the motor into my ek after building it. I've updraded to 9:1 cp pistons, eagle rods, acl/oem bearings and arp main studs. Head is still stock. Everything was put together per the helms manual. I think I did a good job.

When starting this thing up, what am I expecting? Any certain noises to hear for? I've never did a motor swap nor built an engine.

Also, after removing the d sereies, I find that cranking it was a lot easier to crank than my built b18b. I assume this is because it's not broken in yet and there's no oil although there is assembly lube. I'm scared, hold me.

ITS_Dunn

you've got that right. you wont be able to spin it as easy until its worked in and started up for a bit.

main studs were a little overkill but i guess they wont hurt anything.

no noises should be audible. let her run for about 20 minutes on idle and then drain the oil and start the pig again.

zerovandez

iTrader: (1)

I researched that piston slap maybe audible when the car is cold. I stuck with a 81mm bore with a light hone. The pistons were dead on at 81mm. This gave me a slightly larger piston to wall clearance but was still in spec. Would I hear any noise with forged pistons?

zerovandez

iTrader: (1)

bump for comfort

ke98248

iTrader: (1)

I believe you are OK

zerovandez

iTrader: (1)

man i just put what i feel is tons of money and effort into this build. I just don't want it goin to ****.

Also my tranny doesn't have a VIN plate on it as the guy who sold it to me grinded it off because it was the vin to his car.

If i take my car to get BAR tested will they look for this vin?

doood

iTrader: (1)

sounds like you bought a stolen tranny

zerovandez

iTrader: (1)

but he's willing to let me "borrow" that vin plate to take my engine to get BAR'd.

pdiggitydogg

i cannot stress enough, how important it is that your timing belt is tensioned properly before startup....

zerovandez

iTrader: (1)

well i installed the tbelt with the tensioner all the way to the tightest then loosened it 180 degrees then turned the crank c/clockwise then tightened the tensioner down to 40lbs. is this the way? everything lines up perfectly at tdc btw.

fmrprojects

all the money spent you shoulda just got a stoch gsr head and slapped it on. just from that you'll gain some more hp. but before you start it up, prime the engine and make sure oil gets everywhere in the motor. i always use wal mart non detergent oil to break in new motors. but crank it for like 10 sec with the dizzy disconnected then after like 2 times start it up

pdiggitydogg

pull the fuel injector fuse when priming
you dont want excessive fuel in the chambers

XkjeldorX

also make sure you have the correct air/fuel ratio. you dont want to run rich

zerovandez

iTrader: (1)

sweet thanks guys. I just finished putting on my intake mani and gave the crank another spin. Everything seems well with it only kinda tight (until there's oil i guess).

Even if this was a gsr motor, I'd still would've ripped it apart cuz imma boost this sometime this year. It was fun learning from you guys about building engines and how precise you have to be.

There's no spark plugs in it now (just tape over every hole) and it sounds like it's suckin and blowin like crazy. I guess this is good?

XkjeldorX

Good Luck with everything and let us know how it turns out.
I am in the same boat right now except im going to start putting my all motor LS together when i get my parts back from the machine shop this weekend

zerovandez

iTrader: (1)

hey thanks man I'll need all the luck I can get. So anxious but so nervous!

zerovandez

iTrader: (1)

another question...

I want to fully clean my engine bay before the swap. I was thinking of spraying degreaser everywhere then hosing the sucker down with a garden hose good or bad? yay or nay?

eg8tuner

yay

ITS_Dunn

Shouldnt hurt, I would just try and either tape off the inside of sensor plugs and check for any openings at hoses that it might get in, other than that I would spray the **** out of it with degreaser, let it soak for 10 minutes and then hose.

I guess sensors SHOULDNT BE hurt, but when it comes to electrical, I always protect it because its such a PITA to fix.

zerovandez

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, all the wires seem to be covered or sealed. But then again, you can never be too sure. What kinda degreaser you guys recommend. I gave this automotive gunk removal thing. works good but smells bad.

zerovandez

iTrader: (1)

good news! I just swapped my motor in my civic! the b18 dropped in perfect! will update with pics later.

zerovandez

iTrader: (1)

here's some progress pics.









well I have DA axles halfshaft included. Someone said that the driverside wont work on my ek. Here's a pic of it. Will and should it work?



The guy who sold it to my hasa 95 civic coupe and he was using a b16 hydro tranny.

MilanoCivic97

lookin good man. clean those headlights!

jdmpremonition

Hey not to thread steal or anything but uh yeah, im getting ready to do my ls-vtec swap in my hatch and plan on using a gsr head with a gsr trans. im using the golden eagle kit to add the vtec head and im adding arp head studs and new rod bolts... is there anything else I should try to replace before I do the frankenstein? I plan on going high compression all motor in this car.

zerovandez

iTrader: (1)

Stick with what you got and see how you like it. Those ARP rod bolts should and will hold up fine. From there, decide if cams and all the other good stuff is really needed.

Back to bidness, yeah those headlights are somethin else, looks like someone pissed on em for a couple of years. Still deciding on a 99 front end conversion.