dns92civhatchcx

ok this is my question im going to be buying a new motor from h motors online and i wanna know if when getting it will it do more harm then good to use fully synthetic. or should i just use conventional oil. and also if i use high milage conventional oil on a motor with less than 50k will that cause damage? or would it be a good precautionary measure??

furious94ls

I got my 98 Civic EX with 186k on it. The car was neglected on oil changes, and had some leaks. I found and fixed the leaks. I did numerous oil changes to flush out the engine. I currently use Penzoil Platinum/ULtra 5w30 motor oil with the AO1 Honda oil filter.

I have super easy starts, great idle, quiet engine operation. No leaks and no burning of oil. It depends on the condition of the engine. A lot of people here say to just use cheap oil and change it every 3k.

I feel that good oil is cheap enough. I get 30.2mpg with 50/50 driving. 38.7mpg all highway. When its cold the engine cranks nice and fast. I like synthetic oil. I have used it in a lot of cars with no negative outcomes.

Fliptard

Just use regular conventional Oil. Synthetic really isn't good for our motors and places like Inline pro and Evan's tuning "In pa anyways" will not even touch/tune your car with synthetic oil.

As Mobil 1 is suppose to be such a good oil, tests show it has the most content of metals in the oil, which you can't see or feel, but they will wear your motor out.

furious94ls

WHAT? Where did you hear that Evan's won't tune a car with synthetic oil? Also if you simply look in the owners manual it states using synthetic oil is fine as long as the same schedules are followed.

dns92civhatchcx

what brand conventional oil is the best???

Axatax

High-mileage oils contain naptha and similar petroleum fractions to condition the rubber in the engine seals which contact the oil.

I've run synthetic in my EJ6 since day one and it certainly hasn't hurt anything. The valve train looks like it could have just come from the factory.

It's neat changing your oil at 7K miles and it's still nearly the same color as when put it in. If this is bad, then so be it.

redm3turbo

its basically the same...
$15 to do conventional oil 5k miles
$30 to do synthetic 10k miles
works out to be exactly the same

just more labor to do conventional.

fragmare

The short answer: Use what you like, whether it's dino or synth. Neither is necessarily bad, just use the proper weight and viscosity and keep up on your oil changes.

shipo

Yeesh, I don't know what source you use for information, but pretty safe to say that everything you wrote in the above post is patently incorrect.

Fliptard

Because I have read a few different post/forums about this from big companies doing tests on oils. Of course everyone else is going to have their own opinion.

As for Inline pro and Evans tuning, My buddy was talking with them on several occasions to get his gsr turbo'd and tuned and thats what they told him every time he talked to them.

mayfly

why is it everytime someone talks down about a product its from there buddys experience...just saying

OP use synthetic. used them in all my motors. works great. valve train is always clean and not gunked up like stated above, but that also comes from regular maintence.

shipo

There is a tremendous amount of idiocy related to oil out on the internet; in an effort to develop a valid opinion your job is to filter out the crap, an area where you've got plenty of work to do.

kyden

completely wrong for evans tuning. he recommends conventional oil, but he couldn't care less what you put in it.

furious94ls

I want to say mean, and hurtful things right now. Instead, I will say stop posting complete bullshit on internet forums.

strategy400

Synthetic reduced wear on my cam (evidenced by almost no valve lash adjustments required after switching).

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

To end fallacies and erroneous information I always use synthetic. Have done so every car I have ever know. I just clocked 200k on a boosted D16. Haven't seen an issue using it since I've owned the car for the last 5 years. Engine was clean as a whistle when I swapped valve covers recently.

dns92civhatchcx

is royal purple worth the money??? or can Valvoline do exactly the same???

Sik Eg

Stay with Mobile 1 full sythetic Royal purple in my experience was garbage I used 10w30 and once the oil was hot and I got on it my car smoked the oil got like water when it was hot since ive switched to Mobil have not had that issue at all .

fragmare

I dunno about Royal Purple being garbage. I have a feeling it's great oil and all, but probably not worth what they're charging for it.

Honestly, I just go with Walmart SuperTech 5w30 Full Synthetic (it's like $20 bucks for a 5 quart jug and, according to bobistheoilguy.com, is a fair to decent synthetic), a good filter (like Royal Purple, Amsoil, NAPA Platinum, Mobil 1, etc.), and a can of 4 Cylinder Formula Engine Restore. I change the oil every 5000-7500 miles as called for in the service manual. That's just me.

My daily beater and current resto project, a 93 Civic DX, has 285K on it and still runs beautifully. The engine is clean, with minimal varnish and deposits and the compression numbers are better than optimal, if that tells you anything.

I'm not saying to run out and buy this or that brand of oil or filter, but what I *am* saying is that there's absolutely nothing wrong with opting for synthetic oil in your Honda. These Honda engines, from my experience, are pretty forgiving and durable (head gasket issues aside), and as long as you treat them well they'll treat you well in return... for a long, long time.

Whydid

1. All Honda road car engines are poverty engines.

2. I have never seen or heard of a road car that experienced any engine problems because of conventional oil use. Nor has anyone else in the history of the planet either for that matter, because it literally is something that has never happened.

3. There is no actual definition of "synthetic" or "full synthetic." Oils using conventional base stocks can be labeled as "full synthetic."

Please, by all means, continue using synthetics to your heart's content. I do not care. I have never witnessed a real-life argument over this. This is one of those things that just exists on the internet. Just understand you're wasting your money, and any of the bullshit things you convince yourselves of, up to and including increased gas mileage, more horsepower, smoother engine operation, decreased wear (major LOL @ this one), or anything else is pure self-delusion.

shipo

Bzzzt! I'm sorry, that is incorrect.

Big argument for synthetics, less frequent oil changes. I'm a very busy guy and between my wife and I we can really rack up the miles. If I was forced to change the oil every three thousand miles then I'd be changing the oil on one of our cars every three or four weeks; with synthetic I can extend the changes to ten to twelve thousand miles and get the cars on the same schedule. By this I mean, when one has between nine and ten thousand miles on the oil, the other usually has closer to twelve thousand miles, and I can change them both at the same time.

So, the fact that I can go so long between oil changes without running exhausted oil means more money in my pocket and more time to do other things in my life.

Looks like the only self-delusion going on around here is from someone who insists his inferior conventional oil is as good as a top quality synthetic.

strategy400

I have seen the reduced wear with my own eyes (as well as all of the items you've listed). I have also never seen any of the alleged negative effects rumors since I've used it. I use it on all my vehicles. Well worth the extra expense (which if you consider longer service life does not exist either).

kyden

rocker wear is a zinc issue, not synthetic vs conventional. see: flat tappet.

strategy400

Conventional required valve lash adjustment. Synthetic did not.
Unless someone wants to suggest my valve seats are wearing in perfect unison with the cams after switching. That would be a stretch.

Whydid

Let me ask you a few questions:

How, exactly and chemically, are conventional oils inferior? Do you drive mostly city or highway?

Please point me to any things like blocks or cranks that have unnaturally high levels of wear from conventional oil use. Or any other cars that didn't require a valve lash adjustment. Your single example is more than likely just coincidence, which would occur with any oil used. As much as I am impressed by your lone anecdotal story, you would have to demonstrate that a statistically significant number of cars with "synthetic" did not require a valve lash, and that a statistically significant number of cars using conventional did. Also, how do I know you checked your valve lash correctly?