JDMb18c1HATCH

ok guys im having a major problem with fuel getting in the oil. this is an all brand new build I have not even put 10 miles on the car yet because im scared to blow it up lol. I have done 4 oil changes in the last week while trying to work out all the problems im running in to but i can afford to keep throwing oil in the trash because im getting fuel in the oil pretty bad and the car is smoking black.

what could be causing this?

bluejcivic

an injector is staying open and washing out that cylinder. just a possibility

JDMb18c1HATCH

all brand new precision 310cc injectors just put them in last week?

JDMb18c1HATCH

I NEED SOMEONE CLOSE TO ABILENE TX LOL someone who knows built hondas like the back of there hand anyone know of anyone close willing to help a fellow honda freak out? lol

hondanube2010

compression and leakdown test

zb12691

this probably wont help but i have a catch can setup between the pcv and vacuum(sp) source. i was catchin a ton of gas in mine too. switched oils and it stoped. i was emptying it everyother day. just a thought

Sr420Det

Does it run good? Im thinkin stuck injector also, this can b caused by several things including the ecu. Happened to me once and i switch ecus, problem solved. Of coarse it ran like crap though (only on three cylinders) so I just unplugged that injector till i got a new ecu

Sr420Det

or maybe ur running a stock ecu with those big injectors which would cause way to much fuel at any time, and once again prob run like ****. So yeah...what kind of ecu u have? whats the chassis and whats the motor

Sr420Det

dude this is the worst time (break in on a brand new motor) to be washing your cylinders out with fuel. If uv ran it for ten miles u will probably never get a proper seal outta ur rings. Fix the issue and compression test it

JDMb18c1HATCH

to answer all answers its far from stock lol its fully built and I was getting 0 oil pressure at an idle so I put a new oil pump on it as well and I got 20 psi at an idle now its dropped to 10 psi. when i changed the oil pump the pickup tube hade some type of cloth strans covering the whole screen on the pick up tube so thats another thing I need to check just throwing it out there.


It does run real good and I did a compression check on it last week and it was at like 65 psi per cylinder with 2 cranks. I did this on each cylinder and let it sit for 5 min each and none leaked down at all

I just put a new chip in it and now im getting the map sensor and TPS CEL codes if I plug the map sensor in I cant give it any throttle and it tries to die if I unplug the map sensor it runs like a champ.

it also is smoking black like its running way to rich

hopefully this info helps you all out with helping me better. Iv spent well over $10K so far and been building this for 10 months and I just want to be able to drive the damn thing problem free.

as far as everything else here is a complete list of everything done to the motor

SUSPENSION
SKUNK2 PRO SERIES FRONT CAMBER KIT controll arms $325
kyb adjustable struts $350 for the front plus $350 for the rear
TEIN S-Tech Springs $249.95 new
GSR rear disk break conversion
SP Performance Cross Drilled and Slotted Vented Front Rotors $300
JDM front upper strut bar $50


MOTOR
Edelbrock victor X intake manifold $585
dh racing throttle body $325 it is also port matched $150
Hondata im gasket, $60
PTE Precision Turbo Fuel Injectors 310cc $225
chipped p28 ecu
greedy extreme timing belt $150
Brand new JDM cap and rotors $75
Vision Motorworks 10.2mm Spiral Core 100% Pure Silicone Spark Plug Wire $75
NGK platinum plus spark plugs $15
T304 stainless steel with mandrel-bent. ( chrome polished ) racing header $150
T304 stainless steel with mandrel-bent. ( chrome polished ) full exhaust $150
new hood release cable $40
BLOX RACING CAM SHAFT SEAL $15
new head gasket set $190


BLOCK
USDM B18c1 block
Darton Sleeves $600
BLOX RACING BLOCK GUARD $100
sleeved block with block guard install $1800
Mahle 10.5 to 1 compression pistons $600
New Mahle rings diamond cut to fit $180
scat h beam rods & ARP rod bolts $500
scat crank $600
new water pump $100
new oil pump. $115
ACL Rod Bearing Set $70
ACL Main Bearing Set $110

HEAD
I just had the head port and polished bead blasted and completley rebuilt this cost me $1000
ARP head studs $150
Skunk2 Racing Tuner Series dual Valve Spring and Titanium Retainer $407.98
Skunk2 One-Piece Forged Valves - High Compression $ 321.19
type r cams "cams were just micro polished before being installed"
AEM adj cam gears $125
BLOX RACING CAM SHAFT SEAL $15

TRANSMISSION
JDM b16 ctr tranny
ACT Extreme stage 3 pressure plate and 6 puck sprung clutch $798


thanks a bunch for every ones help in advanced

JDMb18c1HATCH

I dont have a pvc valve on it at all and to ad to my last post im getting a **** tone of blow by and fuel smelling exhaust smoke looking **** coming out of the little tube on the top of the valve cover if this ads any more info to help you all help me

Solster

I Hate to be an *** here But 65 psi compression is Very Low i get 130 after 2 cranks and i get 185 after 3. and my motor has 164K on it a NEW motor with your biuld Should get closer to 200 PSI.
But remember you only need 55 PSI for a motor to run. (run like Crap and have less power then a Vespa but run none the less)

also look closly at your comp tester MOST all new ones have a one way air valve that hold the the pressure to the guage till you hit the release. All and i mean ALL engiens Leak down coppresion as tha sit most will bleed off all commresion in about 3-4 min.

sounds like the piston rings are installed wrong the opening on the lower ring (the one above the oil ring set) should be 180 Deg from the opening of the uppert ring if there not it will lose alot of comp and you will have a Ton of blow by from the valve cover.

eather that or you missing a ring all together.

try re doing the copression test this time keep turning the motor for about 4 turn see where your at if less then 200 add a cap full of oil to the cylender and re test if it goes up alot you may have gotten the wrong rings.

Did you Check ring gap Befor you put the rings on the pistons???

on the ECU what Base Map are you on and where did you get it?

JDMb18c1HATCH

I will do another compression check in a few and get back to you on that as far as the the rings I installed them offset from each other and the ring gap im unsure of my "X" honda mechanic did that part of it.

and as far as a base map "please dont laugh" Iv heard of it but really unsure of what it is. I got the chip from a guy on ebay. "I know ebay chips suck I hear" but he has sold like 98 chips for honda/acura with 100% positive feedback but im being told to go to phearable.net

Sr420Det

ok so u have 310cc injectors which is enough for like 250hp, ul probably need bigger. With all that work done you need a wideband bigtime. Do you have ur tps and map switch possibly? Yeah do another compression test and hold the throttle fully open when u do it and spin it untill u reach max compression. A "base map" is the chip that u put in ur ecu, its called base map cause its just a guess, its not a tuned map. Get u a "base map" from a reputable place like phearable.net (i havnt had good luck with there base maps though). **** all that money uv spent Id suggest u spend a lil more on hondata s300 or crome gold, fuel pump, wideband, and bigger injectors. Its prob running like **** (to rich) from the chip you ordered (its prob meant for stock injectors) plus/or u have ur map and tps sensors switched. If you had hondata and a wideband ud b able to tune ur air fuel ratio perfectly

CivicSpoon

Ebay chips are complete garbage. They aren't going to help you make power, they are just going to help you trash your engine faster. They have the fuel maps going rich and lean in random areas, with the ignition timing maps doing so as well, but not together. I forget exactly where the post is (maybe pgmfi.org or maybe d-series.org), where someone posted up the visual representation of the maps, and they were as stated above.

Get a real engine management and get it tuned. Why spend all of that $, and then cheap out where it's most important?

Solster

i'll look around i have crome and a chip burner I'll see if i can wip up a Base map for you i'll just set it for a *Stock b18c1 and add the calcs for the 310 injectors. and what Fuel PSI you running?

if you have a FPR you can adjust it will do the best that i have seen if set to a fuel pressure of about 55 PSI. stock is about 42 PSI with that pressure you get a cone shapped spray pattern it is the normal pattern Most all injectors have but at 55 PSI it losses all shap and forms more of a cloud this is better as it will allow the fuel and air to mix better. have seen dyno vids of 10-15 HP gains plus Less Spark Knock at 55 over 42 PSI.

Also did you go bigger then stock when you sleved it or did you just sleve it for strength?

JDMb18c1HATCH

as for the fuel injectors I just bought them because someone said if I went any bigger then 320 it would flood it out.

Not sure what a wideband is but ill do some research and find out lol I know my brother has talked about one in his car but I never really seen one

thanks for the clear up on the base map

yes it runs like **** WAY TO RICH it smokes black pretty bad and I got tons of fuel in the oil. but was also doing this before the new chip also LOL

he actually talked to me on the phone and and he sent me 2 chips one for performance and one for road trips if I ever take them I can switch them out. But same problem with both of them

This is what the paper says that I got from him with the chips

"2 chips B18C1 310cc inj 10.5-1 forged pistons stock rev, stock Vtec disabled knock sensor"

Chip #1
B18C1 310cc inj
Rev 8200 / Vtec 4800
Edb Intake Mani
No Knock Sensor
No Speed Limiter

CHIP #2
B18C1 310cc inj
Rev 8200 / Vtec 5200
LC 4000 / SL 7900
Edb Intake Mani
No Knock Sensor
No Speed Limiter

the map and TPS were backwards I did switch them But when I play with the TPS the idle should change a little and it doesn't do that any more like it did at first. and the MAP iv tried 2 different ones and no change. the guys at phearable.net told me that since my TB is 78mm and the intake is port matched that it could be throwing the map sensor off so I need to change the TB and possibly the IM?

I understand exactly what your saying but like I said this is my first buld and and dont know everything lol im going to check out hondata and a a wideband didnt even know I needed them not being turbo. "im somewhat of a noob but have already learned a **** load"

OK AWESOME I REALLY APPRECIATE IT BRO!

I dont have a regulator but the psi is right at about 40-42 psi. That's what the fuel pressure gauge on my fuel rail says.

the sleeves are stock size it was done for strength.




so at the end of all this info if I get a wideband a better chip and hondata s3000 I can get it to quit dumping fuel in the oil?

JDMb18c1HATCH

is this what i am looking for as far as a wideband?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AEM-T...Q5fAccessories

Sr420Det

Yes that wideband is great (thats what im running) and ul need hondata...not another chip. No matter what anyone says its still going to be a guessing game. Dont buy another chip just get some real engine management. Do you have any cels now that uv switched the map and tps, what do u mean when u say "i play with the tps and it doesnt change the idle"?

88whitehatchidaho

Another thing you might try is just a different FPR ive seen where the diaphram tears and pulls fuel right thru the regulator then the vac. line into the intake. thats probably not your problem thou cause you do have good fuel pressure but its still an easy check to do, just unplug the FPR while its running and see if you still have the extra fueling(or fuel around the top of the regulator or vac. line)

JDMb18c1HATCH

ok yea thats what im gonna do Im gonna have to get to work on some graphic design work to get up the money so... "anyone need some graphic design work? LOL"


and as far as cell codes yes im still getting the TPS and MAP cel codes

As far as what I mean when I say when I play with the TPS when I had the turbo chip in the ecu and I moved the TPS forward or backward the idle would change up and down as if it was working right I guess IDK lol NOW when I move it it does nothing.

JDMb18c1HATCH

as far as i know the last time I checked it it was good and if I pinched the return fuel line with a pair of pliers the car would try to die until I let off the line.

Sr420Det

wideband, and engine management is what u need buddy

Solster

the AEM wideband is an OK unit for keeping an eye on your AFR of the car but i belive you need a Better AFR if your going tobe getting into some realy heavy motors (like what your biulding) i would get a AFR from a Company that has been making guges for Alot longer then AEM oh from say AutoMeter say like this one
http://autometer.com/cat_gaugedetail...earch&gid=3604

it what i have AND it has a 0-4V output line you can use to replace the O2 that the car uses with this as a all the time O2 it what i did i have the AFR on the dash and i send the 0-4V output to my ECM for the computers reading.

also looks like the Chips i had got used by my kids for some kind of craft thing making bugs so i have to oder more from xenocron.com befor i can burn you a chip.

and remember Most of the honda injectors are 240cc stock and you have 310cc now so sounds like the "tunner" that made your chip forgot to adjust it.

Not sure why he would kill a Knock sensor i hear ppl say you want that if the car is a Daily driver and not a track car.

and did you tell him this is running on a P28 ECM? if not he may have burned the chip for the wrong type of ECM and that will play hell with all the sensors.

if your still getting code Make sure you have ALL the grounds connected this is Key in the honda's.

ok i know you still need it on a chip but i attached the bin file for the chip i was looking to send you.

JDM P30 ECM BASE (d16Z6) it's the same as a P28 but less emisions and supports datalogging for the P28 ECM
P72 (B18C1 ECM CODE) Fuel and Spark tables
Redline set to 8600 up from 8296
V-Tec set to 5504 down fro 5872
Inj. set to 310cc up from 240cc
Fuel PSI set to 42 PSI drown From 45 PSI
Speed Limiter turned off
High and Low Spark tables Smoothed
High and Low Fuel tables Smoothed
Removed Checksum Routine
Quick Datalogger +RPT added


Was done with Crome as I'm still learning Ectune.

JDMb18c1HATCH

and again thanks for all the help it is all really appreciated.



now on 2 1 more thing I have some pretty bad blow by coming out of my air vent on the valve cover what else can cause this other then the rings? cause its pretty bad and my brother said that the rings might be on wrong but im pretty damn sure there not so I want to see if anything else can cause this before I go tearing the motor back apart to check.