k3ntegra

Thank you for the guide. This, along with chrisfix's guide, are the best I've come across on how to change the wheel bearings on 90s Honda Civic/Acura Integra. According to /r/MechanicAdvice, using an impact wrench can damage the wheel bearing's race.

I was wondering if anyone had luck with the Slide Hammer Puller Tool? I remember coming across it on a thread dealing with replacing broken studs. I believe this tool can be rented for free from Auto Zone upon returning it.

I plan on replacing the wheel hub as well, since I suspect it's bent.

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

Yeah it will pull the hub out of the bearing. But personally I would rather remove the entire knuckle 1st to avoid damaging ball-joints via hammering. Remember professional mechanics (who may do this regularly) are not as concerned about longevity as a vintage car owner like you and I. Their industry is focused on the time a job takes vs getting come-backs for poor quality. If a 30 year ball-joint becomes a 5 year ball-joint after hammering, they won't see that as a come-back. Instead it will just be more $$ later down the road.

Now if you cannot separate all 3 ball joints to remove a knuckle (sometimes they're stuck), then by all means, do what you gotta do. Or if you are more concerned about the time it takes to do the job...leaving the knuckle on the car will save you time.

k3ntegra

Thanks for the response. I'll definitely be separating the knuckle from the car.I bought Astro Pneumatic Tool 78825, because it claimed to have a grade 8 bolt. The following are images displaying the part number of the supplied kits, and a brief installation guide for Hondas and Acura. The guide for other car models also only go into the early 2000s; which a reviewer complained about on a different manufacturer’s version of the tool as well.
https://i.imgur.com/cHh7r8q.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/zG6Lerl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ZHiwUTU.jpg

For removal of the old wheel bearing, I’ve deviated against the tutorial, and inserted the bolt from the opposite end (with the nut on inner side of knuckle instead), so I can use an open ended wrench (more specifically 18” aluminum pipe wrench) to rotate the nut from its center, as I think this may give me more torque output. Thankfully with the Astro Pneumatic tool, there are “spare” bushing pieces, in the event I lose or break one. Part -07 fits over the hub perfectly.

I went from store to store, and the best fitting impact socket I came across to remove the old hub assembly in the wheel bearing’s housing were 1 1/8 in (28.6mm) socket and 30mm socket; they were $8 and $15 at Advanced Auto Parts respectively. I’m leaning towards the latter, since some car's actually use it.

I've went ahead and bought Honda Manufactur Part # 45255SK7020, dust plate/cover, since presumably, the mechanic forgot to put it back on when they did the bearing years ago. I've also gone ahead and bought Dorman 933-456 retaining ring since they may have forgotten to put that on as well.

If one may know the thread and pitch size for the dust plate/splash guard retaining screw (part 27), it would be appreciated. It says 5x12; do I just go to the local car parts store and get the one that says 5x12?

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

A 5x12 bolt or screw at the hardware store will be found in the Metric section under M5x12. M5 is the thread diameter and 12mm is the length.

I would be better and probably cheaper to order a few of the correct screw from the local dealer. Part# 93892-05012-08 is an M5 phillips-head-screw with built in lock-washer.

tony_2018

if the knuckle is off the car what would you use to secure it in order to use the slide hammer?

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

You can stand on the knuckle while pulling the slide upward. I did the opposite and pounded it downward from the back while supporting the knuckle with wood blocks.

tony_2018

I'm trying to imagine how to do it downwards but can't, I'll figure it out if I ever need to replace my bearings again.

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

You have to support the arms of the knuckle on some blocks of wood with the hub & lug studs pointing down (not touching the floor). I remember this being awkward, but I made it work. Then place a socket on the back where the hub is (inside the bearing). Now beat the crap out of the socket. I used a 5-lb weight.

k3ntegra

The 30mm socket plus an old brake pad on top of the socket and PB blaster, I was able to remove the old hub with a 6 to 10 hit with standard clawhammer. Blocks of the wood (2x4) was most definitely helpful here.
http://imgur.com/PlgWs3P
http://imgur.com/gkPd268

This tool: https://www.amazon.com/Channellock-927-8-Inch-Retaining-Plier/dp/B000TG80SY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497198996&sr=8-1&keywords=channellock+snap+ring+plier
(ChannelLock retaining ring plier) + a flat head screwdriver, was used to remove the retaining ring and the one on the lower ball joint in a previous repair, so I'm glad I have it.
Half way towards extracting the old bearing, I had to switch from an 18" pipe wrench to a breaker bar with a 32mm socket due to clearance issues ; only time I had to switch to this. As stated earlier, I had the nut on the inner part of the knuckle.
When inserting the new bearing, I had to undo the adapter nut, and reposition the bushing, so it wouldn't scrape the steering knuckle. I had the bearing in the freezer for 12 hours and installed in 3 hours later after removing it from said freezer.

Unfortunately I went the cheap route and tried to use Home Depot hex head screw to install the brand new dust plate. The head plus external threads of the screw snapped off, now I either need to go back and drill out the old screw off or get a new knuckle; didn't install dust plate due to fear of noise. If you do decide to go to Home Depot, which you shouldn't , get one that is 10mm long OR less. I was a using a 1/4 drive ratchet wrench that was less than 6 inches long.

Putting the new hub, required a creative configuration of blocks of wood and was harder that the wheel bearing.
I found this easier/more straightforward than trailing arm bushings.

Hopefully a left handed HSS M2 drill bit should be sufficient enough to remove the broken bolt/screw.