fastwanabe

well my H22 needs a build and I have never built a motor before so need advise. Its an H22a1 and will be tearing it completely down and sending the block to GE for sleeves. Bottom end will consist of wiseco 12:5.1 with IB "I" beam rods. I was planning on purchasing a helm but since some part wont be stock I figured I could get the info off the net. The head will remain stock till I can afford crower stage II cams. But I really need torque specs and ANY insight on how to go about things, can anyone point my in the right direction.

_Cyclone_

First tip, buy the Helms... it will help you alot more than you think.

splitime

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CycloneBlue_1.6EL &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">First tip, buy the Helms... it will help you alot more than you think.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Without a doubt this is the route you need to go. It'll make your life 100% easier. Just follow the steps laid out and its a fairly painless process. Just becomes time consuming to make sure its all done right.

Don't hesitate to get the helms as you mentioned in your post. Stay away from the net... to many people just throwing out numbers off the top of their heads. Unless you have a few builders you know and trust for info... the helms will provide the majority of the specs you need.

LudeyKrus

I built my first motor w/o a Helm's, and I can tell you that is the first bit of advise I would offer you. Save up and buy the damn thing!

Second, make sure you have a well-stocked garage. Before you start spending cash on engine parts, make sure you have all the tools you could need.

Third, be careful, clean, and slow. Do everything right the first time around, don't rush anything, and triple check all measurements and record them.

Turbogixxer

Tips:

1. clean and keep everything clean
2. lay everything out in a neat matter (tools, parts)
3. Be patient, it takes time to build a motor, no need to rush

Links:
http://boosted-hybrid.com/viewtopic.php?t=326
http://www.c-speedracing.com/h...y.php

I have all the spec for the engine. It is straight from Honda, sometimes helms is weird.

AsianMullet

the correct tools and a shop manual for sure. engine stand might make things a lil easier too. but since your block is all together already you wont need the stand

BrokeAssWhiteboy

good luck on your first build........

some advice i might offer:

be meticulous when assembling, and don't take any shortcuts, if you find yourself thinking " eh, it will PROBABLY be ok" chances are it won't

also with that kind of compression don't start your engine without some way to monitor your a/f ratio.

fastwanabe

that for the info guys. keep it coming, I will be tuning it with uberdata. Right now with stock compression my plx reads high 12's to low 13's. So I think it should be ok for startup.

BTW... where on the net is good place to but the Helms?

jlacoy82

http://www.helminc.com

The Internet Tough Guy

http://www.theoldone.com/articles/badtothebone

break it in on the dyno if you can

fastwanabe

nice.... thanks guys. man....... I'm getten a woody just by thinking about building my own motor.

crzyfool24

Do lots and lots and lots of research of your plans are for your engine. Im in the process of building a D16Y8. Im going for a fully built engine w/turbo. Its gonna take me a while to do cuz it takes a lot of research-time and money. Good luck!

StErN

iTrader: (1)

As stated above get a helms, you wont regret it. As for installing aftermarket parts just get the tq specs from the manufacturer and tq according to those specs. Also take your time, make sure everything is clean, don't cut corners and double check your work.

And last but not least have fun and and enjoy the finished product.

fastwanabe

ok I went to the helms website and ordered this manual.
http://www.helminc.com/helm/pr...D4PH6

I hope its the right one.

jlacoy82

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jwn7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://www.theoldone.com/articles/badtothebone

break it in on the dyno if you can </TD></TR></TABLE>

Great read for starters on how to build the bottom end.

Turbogixxer

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fastwanabe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">. Right now with stock compression my plx reads high 12's to low 13's. </TD></TR></TABLE>

WOT? or partial throttle?

fastwanabe

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbogixxer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

WOT? or partial throttle?</TD></TR></TABLE> at partial throttle. WOT it show 15's.

Turbogixxer

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fastwanabe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> at partial throttle. WOT it show 15's.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ouch!

At cruising/idle/light loads, it should be 15-14.7. WOT, it should be at like ~13. Regardless, it will start the motor, if you do not upgrade the injectors without changing it in uberdata.

Lord Helmet

I guess this would be self explanatory but MARK EVERYTHING YOU REMOVE!!!!!

bluebird

Dont be cheap!!!! Looks like youre on the right path!!!

StErN

iTrader: (1)

Also something else I forgot to add..put all your stuff in ziplock bags and label them. Helps a lot when re-assembling.

newevo4me

great advice fellas this is what h-t was made for big 4 u guys

and good luck bro

fastwanabe

turbogixxer- thanks for the info sheet

jwn7- great link thanks

thanks everybody really.