A few problems on a '93 Hatch/ coolant leak inside cabin
06-29-2010, 02:44 PM
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A few problems on a '93 Hatch/ coolant leak inside cabin
I'm warning you now, this is going to be a little long because I would rather give someone too much information about the problems I'm having, than be vague and get a bad diagnosis on it.
I was looking for a project car, just something to do in my spare time and maybe learn something along the way, because I had no knowledge at all on Honda's prior to this, so I bought my '93 hatch back in early April and the car was barely in drivable condition.
It is basically completely stock other than a Walbro high flow fuel pump and a dc exhaust pipe. It has the stock D15B8 in it, I plan on doing a motor swap in the near future. The clutch was so bad that the pedal had literally an inch of travel. There was something wrong with the shift linkage to where when it was in gear, it had about 5 or more inches of play back and forth like it was in neutral.
Once I got it home I didn't drive it at all after that. It had a bad leak from the heater core, the carpet was completely soaked and behind the passenger seat there was about a half inch to an inch of pooled up coolant and in each of the other floor boards the carpet was just completely soaked and dyed a green color.
The first thing I did to the car was take all the seats, carpet, headliner, and what was left of the interior panels in the back of the car out, basically the entire interior except for the dash.
The picture below is what it looked like after I took the carpet out.
I washed the carpet out, scrubbed the floorboards of the car.
I re-routed the coolant lines to bypass the heater core since I'm not going to need heat until at least November. The previous owner said he had the heater core replaced in February of this year so I'm thinking its just hooked up wrong if its brand new..
Is there any way I can check to see if my heater core is hooked up correctly without taking my dash completely out?
Another problem I am having is when I checked my clutch to see what was wrong with it I saw that there was a small hole in the rubber clutch hose so I tried finding one and I finally did about a week ago. When I put the hose in, at first the pedal wouldn't get any pressure and it took about five minutes of pumping the pedal before it started to get pressure. I bled the lines and it worked, but the pedal stays about half way down at all times and I'm having to bleed the clutch about every other day if I want to drive the car. I talked to a friend who knows hondas well and he said the reason for the pedal staying down is because it has the stock pressure plate, could this be or is it something else?
As far as the shift linkage goes, I took it off and thought I needed a new one because the bushings were bad but one of my friends beat on it a little with a hammer thinking it would somehow help and low and behold, it did tighten it up somehow. I bought some energy suspension shifter bushings and those helped too.
With the brakes, they were fine on my drive home from first getting the car and somehow over the two or so months it sat while I was doing other things on the car, the back left started leaking whenever you would hit the brakes and you could put the pedal to the floor and nothing would happen until it was on the firewall, then the fronts would lock up. I took the tire off and tried diagnosing the problem but i noticed that it was leaking from inside the drum, so I attempted to take the drum off and I can't get it off. I'm assuming that its been so long since the brakes were changed in the back, groves from the pads have been engraved in the drum or vice-versa. I tried getting the other side off and it wouldn't come off either. Does anyone know of any tips or tricks on how to get a drum off that this has happened to?
Please keep negative comments to yourself. I tried asking the same stuff on my local scene's forum and a few people just made fun of my car and my lack of knowledge of Hondas at the time, instead of offering help.
Thanks in advance.
I was looking for a project car, just something to do in my spare time and maybe learn something along the way, because I had no knowledge at all on Honda's prior to this, so I bought my '93 hatch back in early April and the car was barely in drivable condition.
It is basically completely stock other than a Walbro high flow fuel pump and a dc exhaust pipe. It has the stock D15B8 in it, I plan on doing a motor swap in the near future. The clutch was so bad that the pedal had literally an inch of travel. There was something wrong with the shift linkage to where when it was in gear, it had about 5 or more inches of play back and forth like it was in neutral.
Once I got it home I didn't drive it at all after that. It had a bad leak from the heater core, the carpet was completely soaked and behind the passenger seat there was about a half inch to an inch of pooled up coolant and in each of the other floor boards the carpet was just completely soaked and dyed a green color.
The first thing I did to the car was take all the seats, carpet, headliner, and what was left of the interior panels in the back of the car out, basically the entire interior except for the dash.
The picture below is what it looked like after I took the carpet out.
I washed the carpet out, scrubbed the floorboards of the car.
I re-routed the coolant lines to bypass the heater core since I'm not going to need heat until at least November. The previous owner said he had the heater core replaced in February of this year so I'm thinking its just hooked up wrong if its brand new..
Is there any way I can check to see if my heater core is hooked up correctly without taking my dash completely out?
Another problem I am having is when I checked my clutch to see what was wrong with it I saw that there was a small hole in the rubber clutch hose so I tried finding one and I finally did about a week ago. When I put the hose in, at first the pedal wouldn't get any pressure and it took about five minutes of pumping the pedal before it started to get pressure. I bled the lines and it worked, but the pedal stays about half way down at all times and I'm having to bleed the clutch about every other day if I want to drive the car. I talked to a friend who knows hondas well and he said the reason for the pedal staying down is because it has the stock pressure plate, could this be or is it something else?
As far as the shift linkage goes, I took it off and thought I needed a new one because the bushings were bad but one of my friends beat on it a little with a hammer thinking it would somehow help and low and behold, it did tighten it up somehow. I bought some energy suspension shifter bushings and those helped too.
With the brakes, they were fine on my drive home from first getting the car and somehow over the two or so months it sat while I was doing other things on the car, the back left started leaking whenever you would hit the brakes and you could put the pedal to the floor and nothing would happen until it was on the firewall, then the fronts would lock up. I took the tire off and tried diagnosing the problem but i noticed that it was leaking from inside the drum, so I attempted to take the drum off and I can't get it off. I'm assuming that its been so long since the brakes were changed in the back, groves from the pads have been engraved in the drum or vice-versa. I tried getting the other side off and it wouldn't come off either. Does anyone know of any tips or tricks on how to get a drum off that this has happened to?
Please keep negative comments to yourself. I tried asking the same stuff on my local scene's forum and a few people just made fun of my car and my lack of knowledge of Hondas at the time, instead of offering help.
Thanks in advance.
07-01-2010, 08:50 AM
#2
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Re: A few problems on a '93 Hatch
Okay, I'll try to reply in order...
If your heater core was hooked up wrong it would be dumping coolant at about the middle of the firewall on the engine side, not into the car. But if you really want to look at the heater core, out comes the dash. Which isn't very hard, it's really six bolts, and it's out, more or less.
As for your clutch pedal. I noticed the same thing happening on my car, and it turned out that both the clutch master, and slave cylinder were leaking. You really need to replace at least the clutch master cylinder if not both. Then you'll have new pedal feel. It's got NOTHING to do with your pressure plate. I had a clapped out pos LS swap, and got the pedal to feel perfect by swapping the master and slave cyl.
Rear brakes leaking inside the drums indicates worn out wheel cylinders. The wheel cylinder is just like the caliper on the front, it expands out when you brake which pushes the shoes out into the drums. As for getting the drum off, spray the center and studs with some penetrating oil, and whack the drum on alternating sides with a dead blow hammer, and it will come off sooner or later.
Or better yet, swap in a set of trailing arms, and discs off an Integra and throw the drums in the trash.
If your heater core was hooked up wrong it would be dumping coolant at about the middle of the firewall on the engine side, not into the car. But if you really want to look at the heater core, out comes the dash. Which isn't very hard, it's really six bolts, and it's out, more or less.
As for your clutch pedal. I noticed the same thing happening on my car, and it turned out that both the clutch master, and slave cylinder were leaking. You really need to replace at least the clutch master cylinder if not both. Then you'll have new pedal feel. It's got NOTHING to do with your pressure plate. I had a clapped out pos LS swap, and got the pedal to feel perfect by swapping the master and slave cyl.
Rear brakes leaking inside the drums indicates worn out wheel cylinders. The wheel cylinder is just like the caliper on the front, it expands out when you brake which pushes the shoes out into the drums. As for getting the drum off, spray the center and studs with some penetrating oil, and whack the drum on alternating sides with a dead blow hammer, and it will come off sooner or later.
Or better yet, swap in a set of trailing arms, and discs off an Integra and throw the drums in the trash.
07-02-2010, 11:29 AM
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Re: A few problems on a '93 Hatch
Okay, I'll try to reply in order...
If your heater core was hooked up wrong it would be dumping coolant at about the middle of the firewall on the engine side, not into the car. But if you really want to look at the heater core, out comes the dash. Which isn't very hard, it's really six bolts, and it's out, more or less.
As for your clutch pedal. I noticed the same thing happening on my car, and it turned out that both the clutch master, and slave cylinder were leaking. You really need to replace at least the clutch master cylinder if not both. Then you'll have new pedal feel. It's got NOTHING to do with your pressure plate. I had a clapped out pos LS swap, and got the pedal to feel perfect by swapping the master and slave cyl.
Rear brakes leaking inside the drums indicates worn out wheel cylinders. The wheel cylinder is just like the caliper on the front, it expands out when you brake which pushes the shoes out into the drums. As for getting the drum off, spray the center and studs with some penetrating oil, and whack the drum on alternating sides with a dead blow hammer, and it will come off sooner or later.
Or better yet, swap in a set of trailing arms, and discs off an Integra and throw the drums in the trash.
If your heater core was hooked up wrong it would be dumping coolant at about the middle of the firewall on the engine side, not into the car. But if you really want to look at the heater core, out comes the dash. Which isn't very hard, it's really six bolts, and it's out, more or less.
As for your clutch pedal. I noticed the same thing happening on my car, and it turned out that both the clutch master, and slave cylinder were leaking. You really need to replace at least the clutch master cylinder if not both. Then you'll have new pedal feel. It's got NOTHING to do with your pressure plate. I had a clapped out pos LS swap, and got the pedal to feel perfect by swapping the master and slave cyl.
Rear brakes leaking inside the drums indicates worn out wheel cylinders. The wheel cylinder is just like the caliper on the front, it expands out when you brake which pushes the shoes out into the drums. As for getting the drum off, spray the center and studs with some penetrating oil, and whack the drum on alternating sides with a dead blow hammer, and it will come off sooner or later.
Or better yet, swap in a set of trailing arms, and discs off an Integra and throw the drums in the trash.
I guess Ill end up going to a junk yard and try getting a master and slave cylinder from a car there. Would replacing them fix the pedal distance or having to bleed it anytime I want to drive or both?
I really want to do a rear disc swap but I dont know all the details that goes into it..
thanks for your help.
07-02-2010, 06:02 PM
#4
Re: A few problems on a '93 Hatch
Your heater core is 2 hoses, 1 flows coolant in, 1 flows coolant out, both inside the engine bay, right next to each other. You say you already bypassed it, thats all there is to it, 2 fittings going into basically a mini radiator. Your heater core is bad and needs to be replaced. Owner may have replaced it, but you never know.
07-05-2010, 04:45 PM
#5
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Re: A few problems on a '93 Hatch
I might just wait til it gets closer to winter and just take my car into a shop or something to get the heater core looked at, I wouldnt know if it was hook up right or wrong, being as Ive never looked at one before
I guess Ill end up going to a junk yard and try getting a master and slave cylinder from a car there. Would replacing them fix the pedal distance or having to bleed it anytime I want to drive or both?
I really want to do a rear disc swap but I dont know all the details that goes into it..
thanks for your help.
I guess Ill end up going to a junk yard and try getting a master and slave cylinder from a car there. Would replacing them fix the pedal distance or having to bleed it anytime I want to drive or both?
I really want to do a rear disc swap but I dont know all the details that goes into it..
thanks for your help.
I would highly suggest getting a new master and slave!!! They are like $50 or something like that at your local parts store or online. Do a Google search, I just saw one for $20! If you get a junkyard one, it may be leaking slightly already. Once you put them both in, you'll need to bleed it, (just like your brakes) and then that'll be it. No more bleeding. The reason you have to bleed every time now is because air is getting in there because of the leak.
The rear brakes are a remove and replace deal. It's like six or seven bolts per side. Again, it's easy to do, the hard part would be to replace the e brake cables, but no more than a weekend on the long side. Get some tools and start taking stuff apart! It's fun!
07-06-2010, 07:47 PM
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Re: A few problems on a '93 Hatch
Dude, just pull your dash out! You get a basic hand tool kit from Sears, and you have enough to do it no prob.
I would highly suggest getting a new master and slave!!! They are like $50 or something like that at your local parts store or online. Do a Google search, I just saw one for $20! If you get a junkyard one, it may be leaking slightly already. Once you put them both in, you'll need to bleed it, (just like your brakes) and then that'll be it. No more bleeding. The reason you have to bleed every time now is because air is getting in there because of the leak.
The rear brakes are a remove and replace deal. It's like six or seven bolts per side. Again, it's easy to do, the hard part would be to replace the e brake cables, but no more than a weekend on the long side. Get some tools and start taking stuff apart! It's fun!
I would highly suggest getting a new master and slave!!! They are like $50 or something like that at your local parts store or online. Do a Google search, I just saw one for $20! If you get a junkyard one, it may be leaking slightly already. Once you put them both in, you'll need to bleed it, (just like your brakes) and then that'll be it. No more bleeding. The reason you have to bleed every time now is because air is getting in there because of the leak.
The rear brakes are a remove and replace deal. It's like six or seven bolts per side. Again, it's easy to do, the hard part would be to replace the e brake cables, but no more than a weekend on the long side. Get some tools and start taking stuff apart! It's fun!
Im just worried about not being able to put the dash back in right and then something will end up rattling really bad.
Is this all I need for the master cylinder/slave cylinder?
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...aster+cylinder
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...1352&ppt=C0015
As far as brakes go, I heard integra rear brakes would work, if they do work, and i was able to get some, what all would i need to get off the car? I would more than likely pull those off a car at the junkyard.
07-07-2010, 08:42 AM
#7
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Re: A few problems on a '93 Hatch
Ive got the tools, thats not the problem. The problem is money right now...
Im just worried about not being able to put the dash back in right and then something will end up rattling really bad.
Is this all I need for the master cylinder/slave cylinder?
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...aster+cylinder
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...1352&ppt=C0015
As far as brakes go, I heard integra rear brakes would work, if they do work, and i was able to get some, what all would i need to get off the car? I would more than likely pull those off a car at the junkyard.
Im just worried about not being able to put the dash back in right and then something will end up rattling really bad.
Is this all I need for the master cylinder/slave cylinder?
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...aster+cylinder
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...1352&ppt=C0015
As far as brakes go, I heard integra rear brakes would work, if they do work, and i was able to get some, what all would i need to get off the car? I would more than likely pull those off a car at the junkyard.
On the links you posted. Yes the first one goes on the firewall, and yes, the second one goes on the trans.
As for your dash rattling, unless you break something removing it, you won't have any more rattles than when you started. Once you have it out, you'll see what I mean. It's not as complex as you may imagine. My dash used to rattle until I took it out, and saw where the rattle was coming from. Plus, you may find that the bolts holding it in are not very tight in the first place, which happened in my case.
For the brakes, getting the whole trailing arms, brakes/lines and e brake cables will make the swap much easier. That way you can just unbolt the old trailing arms and bolt in the new, instead of actually removing the drums, and the spindles and all that BS. Also you really should upgrade the brake master cylinder to a 1" or 15/16" when installing rear discs, and also add a proportioning valve from a civic that originally came with discs in the rear as well. That's the proper way to do it, however I doubt many people actually do it that way. Junkyard is a good spot to get the brake setup. Also, that way you can try it out first on a car where it doesn't matter if you break something. That would be a good place to remove a dash for practice too.
Last edited by rickkane; 07-07-2010 at 08:44 AM. Reason: misspelled some words
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07-13-2010, 01:40 AM
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Re: A few problems on a '93 Hatch
I'm getting a rear disc conversion from a guy in my local scene, its all from an integra.
I'm getting the master cylinder, brake booster, and prop valve too from the teg it came off of.
Will the prop valve and master cylinder be okay to use, instead of getting them off another civic that came with rear disc?
I'm getting the master cylinder, brake booster, and prop valve too from the teg it came off of.
Will the prop valve and master cylinder be okay to use, instead of getting them off another civic that came with rear disc?
Last edited by Ronnoc74; 07-13-2010 at 01:42 AM. Reason: spelling
07-13-2010, 06:48 PM
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Re: A few problems on a '93 Hatch
I'm getting a rear disc conversion from a guy in my local scene, its all from an integra.
I'm getting the master cylinder, brake booster, and prop valve too from the teg it came off of.
Will the prop valve and master cylinder be okay to use, instead of getting them off another civic that came with rear disc?
I'm getting the master cylinder, brake booster, and prop valve too from the teg it came off of.
Will the prop valve and master cylinder be okay to use, instead of getting them off another civic that came with rear disc?
07-13-2010, 08:46 PM
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Re: A few problems on a '93 Hatch
My current problem is seized bolts. Ive tried getting several off and I either can't break them or I'm starting to round them off.
I've tried WD-40 and it hasn't done much, I'm getting ready to try some PB Blaster.
Any tips to make it easier to do?
Thanks
I've tried WD-40 and it hasn't done much, I'm getting ready to try some PB Blaster.
Any tips to make it easier to do?
Thanks
07-14-2010, 04:55 PM
#11
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Re: A few problems on a '93 Hatch
You using a normal box wrench or a flare nut wrench? Let em soak with penetrating oil and get you a flare nut wrench. They also call em brake line wrenches.
07-14-2010, 05:47 PM
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Re: A few problems on a '93 Hatch
I haven't taken the brake lines off yet, I'm just working on getting the trailing arms off right now. I've never heard of what you're talking about til now. I was using a twelve point socket, I went today and bought some 6 point sockets and a craftsman bolt out set for the bolts I rounded off. Hopefully I will be able to find some replacement bolts for the ones I rounded off..
07-15-2010, 01:55 AM
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Re: A few problems on a '93 Hatch
The bolts giving me all the trouble right now are the ones that hold the arm that adjusts the toe on the rear. on both sides they are completely rounded off and the bolt out kit wont grab them at all. What should I do to get these out? I have basically everything else unbolted except these and I cant move any further until I get them out. I'm stuck and don't know what to do.
Please Help.
Please Help.
07-16-2010, 10:42 PM
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Re: A few problems on a '93 Hatch
The bolts giving me all the trouble right now are the ones that hold the arm that adjusts the toe on the rear. on both sides they are completely rounded off and the bolt out kit wont grab them at all. What should I do to get these out? I have basically everything else unbolted except these and I cant move any further until I get them out. I'm stuck and don't know what to do.
Please Help.
Please Help.
07-19-2010, 04:08 AM
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Re: A few problems on a '93 Hatch
Just about finished with the rear disc swap.
I ended up just keeping the compensator arms on there. I'm hoping that with as much work as I put into trying to get them off loosened them up some so when I'm driving it they will loosen them up alot more. I'm just going to have to check them every once in a while to see if they do.
I still have to get the brake booster and prop valve from the guy I bought them from. He didn't feel like taking the brake booster off so I have to go up later on this week and do it myself and he said one of his friends has the prop valve. I don't mind doing it though because he gave me the entire rear end off the integra instead of just the trailing arms. Hopefully I'll be able to take the car for a drive by the end of the week.
I also got some skunk2 adjustable coilovers for the rear it today as well (I got the front ones a few weeks ago.)
I ended up just keeping the compensator arms on there. I'm hoping that with as much work as I put into trying to get them off loosened them up some so when I'm driving it they will loosen them up alot more. I'm just going to have to check them every once in a while to see if they do.
I still have to get the brake booster and prop valve from the guy I bought them from. He didn't feel like taking the brake booster off so I have to go up later on this week and do it myself and he said one of his friends has the prop valve. I don't mind doing it though because he gave me the entire rear end off the integra instead of just the trailing arms. Hopefully I'll be able to take the car for a drive by the end of the week.
I also got some skunk2 adjustable coilovers for the rear it today as well (I got the front ones a few weeks ago.)
Last edited by Ronnoc74; 07-19-2010 at 04:10 AM. Reason: spelling
07-22-2010, 01:13 AM
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Re: A few problems on a '93 Hatch
well I thought I was getting a 40-40 prop valve but for some reason he gave me a 25-30 prop valve.. my car had a 30-30 valve on it already.
im gonna have to get one before i can drive it..
im gonna have to get one before i can drive it..
07-22-2010, 08:00 AM
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Re: A few problems on a '93 Hatch
ron -
off topic, but where in southern indiana do you live? pic of the car, or what color is it?
i've populated the louisville area with civics when i lived there, so curious if it was a former car...
off topic, but where in southern indiana do you live? pic of the car, or what color is it?
i've populated the louisville area with civics when i lived there, so curious if it was a former car...
07-22-2010, 01:10 PM
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Re: A few problems on a '93 Hatch
it was originally red but the owner before me spray painted it flat black for some reason...
07-22-2010, 01:16 PM
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Re: A few problems on a '93 Hatch
I have a question. Is this a true jdm cluster like alot of people want?
I know its for an automatic, and i have a 5 speed, but still..
I know its for an automatic, and i have a 5 speed, but still..
07-23-2010, 01:21 PM
#21
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Re: A few problems on a '93 Hatch
ahh... not one of mine...
i lived in sellersburg, so i know about where you are...
looks like a canadian cluster? the redline isn't high enough for an sir cluster...
i lived in sellersburg, so i know about where you are...
looks like a canadian cluster? the redline isn't high enough for an sir cluster...
07-23-2010, 04:32 PM
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07-24-2010, 08:28 PM
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Re: A few problems on a '93 Hatch/ coolant leak inside cabin
I ordered the clutch master and slave cylinder today, they had to special order it and it wont be in until next Monday or something like that..
Do I have to remove my dash to get to the master cylinder?
Someone told me that I would have to for the brake booster and I managed just fine without taking it out.
Do I have to remove my dash to get to the master cylinder?
Someone told me that I would have to for the brake booster and I managed just fine without taking it out.
07-24-2010, 09:39 PM
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Re: A few problems on a '93 Hatch/ coolant leak inside cabin
There's a booster for the clutch?
What I was talking about was when I did the disc brake swap earlier this week and when I replaced the brake booster, I didn't have to take the dash out like some people were telling me.