Telecatster

Car= 1998 Civic EX coupe, D16Y8, MT.

My car has this exact oil leak and it's pissing me off. Over the past couple months I have replaced VTEC (to block) gasket and dizzy O-ring. I poured in some ATP at-205 re-seal a month ago and that stopped until recent oil change and now it's back. Car runs fine, compression is good, no other leaks. Directly under the dizzy looks and feels dry. Felt under nearby sending unit and also dry. My asphalt driveway looks like **** now because of this little dick trickle leak.

tollickj

I've had the same issue with my d16z6. Check your distributor. Open the cap and see if the oil is leaking thru. I changed both my vtec solenoids and the distributor o-ring and still was having the leak then I finally had enough and pulled the dizzy off and striped the dizzy apart and noticed the leak was going thru it... The oil was leaking at the same spot as yours.

98civdx

Pop the cap and see if the internal seal is leaking.

nub

To elaborate on what tollickj mentioned. Remove the distributor cap and see if there's oil inside the housing. If there is oil inside the shaft seal is leaking. There's a small lip seal on the end of the housing where the shaft passes through. Cheap part and and little of your time.

Telecatster

Cool. Thanks for the replies, I'll take a look at it tomorrow morning. Found this link for the DIY https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-accord-1990-2002-2/how-replace-internal-seal-distributor-internal-oil-leak-2214402/

Telecatster

I removed the cap and ignition coil and it was dry inside the dizzy. I felt the top of the internal seal and it was a bit oily, but no oil anywhere else inside so I didn't bother replacing the inner seal. The dizzy shaft is very stable, spins well and seems fine.
I checked the dizzy O-ring and it looks good, but I noticed it has movement (space between o-ring and channel walls) and seems like it should be bigger (wider), unless that is normal? Maybe the local dealership sold me the wrong one a few months ago?

I put a bit of the leftover ATP at-205 re-sealer on both the inner seal and 0-ring as it supposed to reform rubber to original shape, but not swell and eventually shrink it like other re-sealers. Anyway, I don't think the gaskets loss their original form but did it as a "just in case". Put the dizzy back in ( I marked timing beforehand) and it started and ran fine, but that little SOB leak is still there. I felt underneath the dizzy and couldn't feel any oil, shined a bright LED flashlight and couldn't see the source.

Next step.. per an old post I read, in which the OP was having a similar issue, one of the replier's said that he disconnected the oil blow-by at the top of the valve cover and blocked of the hose going into the air intake hose. I did it and it lessen the drip immediately, but was still present. As I was writing this my son took it for a 15 minute ride and when he returned I checked it and it's not leaking. I revved it up a while and still no leak. I am not celebrating yet and will monitor for the next day or two.

1) Can the ECT (engine coolant temp) gauge O-ring leak oil or only coolant?
2) Should the dizzy O-ring be the exact same size as the channel it sits in or is it smaller (thinner)?
3) Should I be concerned about the little bit of oil on the top side of the dizzy internal seal?

nub

1) Coolant only
2) It's slightly smaller than the groove
3) No. If it were bad enough to worry about it you would have known it when you removed the cap.


Degrease the engine and check it often to find the leak.

delsolintegra

I had a similar problem after replacing the dizzy o-ring on a D16Z6 engine.
I re-removed the dizzy and put a bead of dielectric grease along the metal base of the distributor where it meets with the block. That stopped the leak for me. I guess a little oil will work it's way past even a new o-ring so I guess I'm trapping it from coming out of the block.

Telecatster

I did that a few months ago during the initial replacement. I ended up turning the distributor to adjust timing and broke the black rtv seal.This time I wanted to try it without first to see if it will not leak. Unfortunately my joy was short lived as I checked it a few hours ago and it is leaking once again, but less than before. I have an ACE hardware close to my house and they carry a bunch of O-rings, Hopefully they will have one that is a bit thicker and seats better. Backup plan is to use RTV black and let it cure 24 hours without running the engine. I won't need to adjust the timing this time around.

I have read a few older post that said the head gasket could be an issue and getting blow by through it without causing coolant or compression leaks. Then again other post stated they replaced the head gasket for this very reason and it didn't stop the leak.

98civdx

hmm, Ace hardware O-rings?

Telecatster

The one I put on a few months ago is OEM, but again it is a rubber gasket and if I did find one and it doesn't work I am out a buck or less and go OEM again. Or maybe I might find one at ACE and it fixes it 100%.

I found this post which may be relevant http://www.clubcivic.com/board/showthread.php?t=200977

delsolintegra

That's a coincidence. My ACE hardware had a good selection of O-rings and I bought several of different sizes and tried them but I still had the leak. I went back to OEM O-ring and I remember I put some dielectric grease on the O-ring itself as well as on the base of the distributor. I used 3M dielectric grease. I figure it can take the heat of electrical connections it should work.
My leak stopped about a year ago. Good luck.

civicexkid1

iTrader: (1)

check simple stuff before you spend money to replace stuff. first go wipe of any oil from the engine area so its clean then wait a few days and see where it is. is there any oil coming out between the block and tranny could be you rear main seal also.

Telecatster

I degreased it a few weeks ago and it's definitely not coming from the rear main seal. It did have a VTEC solenoid leak and it's been fixed. This time I'll bring the distributor into the local Honda dealership and see if they have a better fitting
O-ring. I'm also going to seal it with black RTV, as I am sick of this leak.

Telecatster

Alright, just got a new O-ring and also sealed the mating area of distributor housing and head with RTV black. I am letting it sit for 24 hours before I start it to ensure good bond. I also tightened down the head bolts a bit as they were a little loose, but there was not any evidence of oil leak from any area of the valve cover.

When I removed the 3 month old O-ring it was loose and stretched out. Also there are small nicks on the metal underneath the O-ring probably caused over the years during O-ring removal. It would be nice if this fixes the leak so I can re-coat my asphalt driveway and not feel like an ******* leaving stains anywhere else.

98civdx

Those nicks are probably why it's leaking.

Telecatster

UPDATE: Damn thing is still leaking so next step is to pop the valve cover off and remove old RTV from inside corners and re-apply. If that doesn't work I will let it be until I need to replace any internal manual transmission parts as it may be the rear main seal. OR, I might break down and bring it to a local mechanic that my friend referred me to and hear what he has to say. Stupid f'ing f'd up oil leak can F itself.

98civdx

Are you sure it's leaking from the distributor?

Telecatster

No I am not, hence to the next suspect: valve cover gasket inner corners.
Will update in a few days.

Telecatster

No leaks from valve cover gasket. Pull the VTEC and it's leaking (again) may be warped?

With all these threads involving VTEC and dizzy O-ring leaks throughout the internet I would say that Honda missed the mark with these.

Build$N$Destroy

i am an ASE certified tech for a meineke car care center and i have seen the oem honda distributor o rings leak many times and have used a slightly thicker o ring from an assortment we have on hand at the shop with just a thin layer of dielectric or silicone grease (for lubrication as to not tear the o ring) to install it and had good luck. this is also the way i did my 404whp boosted ek and have no leaks. ive also seen this leak and it turned out to be the head gasket and whereas you said your head bolts where "loose" that is very possible, but given the fact you said when you originally replaced the distributor you had rtv'd the o ring and that cured the leak my thoughts are your problem is there. also the end cap on the distributor side where the top bolt threads into needs to have a very thin coat of rtv between that bracket and the head to properly seal during assembley as well. hope this helps! good luck!

Telecatster

That is good info. I did say head bolts but actually meant to say valve cover bolts. I rechecked the valve cover gasket for leaks and there are none. I will torque down the head bolts to spec just to rule them out as a possible issue.

I used RTV black but what do you recommend. Read the "versus" threads for Hondabond, Prematex Right Stuff, RTV black,gray, red and so on.. I am not a proponent of any of them, just want to use something that is going to work the first time. Any recommendation?

98civdx

When is the last time you replaced it? Did you use an OEM gasket?

Replace the vtec solenoid gasket with an OEM gasket. and stop coating everything in RTV.


It's quite possible the head gasket is leaking.

92lxsleeper

worse case scenario is the headgasket is leaking from that oil return port on the corner

Pettersen

I have the same problem on my 92 EG6 civic, i have pretty high pressure under the valvecover and ive red that a bad PCV valve could cause this..
its the next thing i have to have a look at when it gets a bit warmen here i Norway..